Running lights...dumb question

[Obscurity]

Well, this will be the first of many posts I'll be making about the variety of "small" stuff that the Eagle is going to be getting done in the aftermath of the rebuild....so here we go!!!!

The SX/4 should have taillights on when the headlights are on right? I'm SURE that this is the case, but we just realized that we have NONE other than brake and backup lights which do work perfectly when braking or in reverse. I checked the Chilton and it says NOTHING about the rear lights other than brake,  backup and side marker lights (unless I somehow missed it!). Marker lights on the sides aren't on either (we checked all bulbs in the back except the license plate light). Fuses for all lights appear to be good (the fuse pannel has some issues, but none should be interfering with the tail lights). Basically when we're running down the highway in the dark we're practically invisible.

The previous owner did a little bit of butchery in the back for speakers (which he pulled before I got it). I'm concerned that he might have somehow messed with something that affected the tail lights, but haven't dug too deep yet. There ARE supposed to be tail lights on right? there must be.....any common culprits for this kind of thing?

EDIT: Adding a question....how much of a nightmare is it to put in a new fuse panel?

[vangremlin]

Yep, there should be taillights....

[WoodenBirdOfPrey]

If you know that the fuse panel has issues, that's probably your best place to start.  The running lights (front, rear, and side) are all on a separate fuse.  It is the top fuse in the box, (park lps) should be 10 amp.  AMC's wiring schematics are a little difficult to follow, but from what I can tell the power goes through that fuse (labeled fuse 1 in the schematics) then goes through the headlight switch and splits off to all the lights.

The first thing to check would be that you have voltage at fuse 1.  Regardless of the key position or light switch position, there should always be 12 volts on that fuse, just put one lead of the meter on ground and piggyback the other one on that fuse.  If you don't have battery voltage there, the fuse or fuse block is the issue.  

If you check and are getting voltage there, the headlight switch is the next place to look.  It could be a loose or corroded connection at the switch, or it could be the switch itself is bad.  These headlight switches definitely aren't known for their reliability.

[Obscurity]

grr....yeah, no dash lights and there are a couple of other things that have some issues. I had dash lights before the engine was removed, and presumably running lights. That is a large part of the reason that I hadn't been blaming the fuse pannel. Its messed, the fuse for the rear window heater is completely melted (has been since I got it, presumably from the POs stereo). Not sure what happened, but you're right....fuse panel is the best place to start, and considering the state of it we'll be doing a full replacement. Daytime driver only for now apparently. My husband wants LEDs in the tail lights and marker lights, so we "might" work with the plan of going that way eventually.He's pretty decent with electrical (though I know more about the electrical in general in the Eagle), so it'll be a cooperative effort I think (that and I love working on it when I'm able, so hey....something to get into!). I'll make HIM figure out the wiring diagram
I was just a little confused about the whole running lights thing since the Chilton says absolutely nothing about it and its been such a long time since I drove it, I kept second guessing my memory of it.
Thanks all....it'll be a while before we can get the fuse panel to do the reinstall, but I'll take pics all the way through so if luck is with us and it goes well I might manage a "How to".

[BenM]

It's a separate wire for tail/marker lights, but the brake and tail lights use the same dual-filament bulb. It is possible for the lights to work one way but not the other due to a bad ground; one function will ground through the other.