Key stuck in the ignition

[Kippnidaho]

Well the problem today is the ignition is stuck in the run position, with the key in it. The ignition will move to the start position also.
What do I need to take apart to get into the switch. Any help out there?

[lapoltba]

This may be a silly question, but did you flip the little key release lever and jiggle it a few times?  I found that mine likes to stick occasionally and jiggling it in/out wile pushing the release lever usually frees it.

[vangremlin]

Sounds like you may need a new ignition key cylinder.  This happened to me, its a pretty easy job to swap in a new one.

[AMC of Houston]

I've also had an ignition switch fall apart inside and cause this problem.   But just like the key tumbler, its a cheap and easy fix.   Has to be one or the other.

[Kippnidaho]

So how is it removed and fixed?

[eaglebeek]

So how is it removed and fixed?

I'm going to answer as if you have some experience in car repair. If you need more details please post and I or someone will answer.

To remove the ignition lock...
1. Pull off the steering wheel. You need a steering wheel puller or a harmonic balancer puller to do so.
2. Remove the thin plastic disk under the steering wheel
3. Take out the ring securing the lock plate to the steering shaft. Hold down the lock plate with a lock plate depressor tool before removing the ring. There's a spring under the lock plate. Release the lock plate depressor and remove the lock plate.
4. Remove the turn signal switch
5. There's a slot in the lock cylinder receptacle. Use a small screwdriver to depress the brass retainer that's engaged in the slot.
6. While depressing the retainer pull the lock cylinder out of the receptacle in the steering column.

You can get a new lock cylinder at your friendly local purveyor of parts or a locksmith. It's a GM part.

Installation is the reverse of the above. 

[carnuck]

I have put the wrong key in and had this problem in the past. I just tap the key in deeper and it usually works again unless the electric slider is what messed up.

[Canoe]

So how is it removed and fixed?

I'm going to answer as if you have some experience in car repair. If you need more details please post and I or someone will answer.

To remove the ignition lock...
1. Pull off the steering wheel. You need a steering wheel puller or a harmonic balancer puller to do so.
2. Remove the thin plastic disk under the steering wheel
3. Take out the ring securing the lock plate to the steering shaft. Hold down the lock plate with a lock plate depressor tool before removing the ring. There's a spring under the lock plate. Release the lock plate depressor and remove the lock plate.
4. Remove the turn signal switch
5. There's a slot in the lock cylinder receptacle. Use a small screwdriver to depress the brass retainer that's engaged in the slot.
6. While depressing the retainer pull the lock cylinder out of the receptacle in the steering column.

You can get a new lock cylinder at your friendly local purveyor of parts or a locksmith. It's a GM part.

Installation is the reverse of the above. 

Found a video on the process.
"How to Replace an AMC Eagle (GM) Ignition Lock Cylinder"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHFz0p919Bk

[Canoe]

5. There's a slot in the lock cylinder receptacle. Use a small screwdriver to depress the brass retainer that's engaged in the slot.
6. While depressing the retainer pull the lock cylinder out of the receptacle in the steering column.

Finally had the time to replace my ignition lock cylinder. Having to pop the hood to pull the cable out of the top of the coil to shut it off had already become very old...

It's an '86, so it is slightly different regarding 5 & 6 above.
There is no retainer that needs pressing to remove the lock cylinder.

• Retention of the cylinder is by a bolt that takes a torx screwdriver. The bolt has a threaded portion and an extended smooth shaft that goes through a gap in the guide along the bottom of the cylinder to retain the cylinder.
• Dis-assembly was fine: removed the key-alert switch, then removed the retention bolt, and cylinder slides right out.
  

Reassembly was awkward. With the new cylinder installed and retained by the bolt, the key-alert switch wouldn't fit in. With the switch already in, the cylinder wouldn't insert. (regardless of key position)

• Solution was to juggle between inserting the switch and cylinder, until both are fully in. Then then sneak the retention bolt past the tab on the switch. This got the bolt started, but the tab on the switch prevented the bolt from being tightened.
• I used a thin screwdriver blade to keep the tab and bolt head separated, while tightening the bolt with a torx screwdriver  (this was done carefully, as it was really bending the plastic switch's tab), until the bolt head was past that tab.
• Then the torx screwdriver could fit past the tab to tighten the retaining bolt. 

I broke the plastic shaft for the horn pin

I was near done, checking the alignment of the steering wheel, when I slipped with the wheel and broke the plastic shaft for the horn pin. Shaft broke off of the plate, and at the top end of the shaft, around 1/3 of it broke off where it retains the bushing that retains the pin & spring.

Since I don't have a replacement, after some disassembly, I removed the brass ring from the plastic plate (bend brass tabs), then de-greased the plastic parts with acetone. Crazy Glue reluctantly held the plastic shaft back onto the plastic plate, then I added some more on the outside to ensure the crack was fully filled. Excess glue formed somewhat of a fillet between the shaft and the plate. Once fully dry (~an hour), that seemed to hold well. So I reassembled the brass ring to the plate, then inserted the spring, pin and retaining bushing into the shaft. Worked as original. Then I added a dab of crazy glue to the bushing-to-shaft to ensure it would stay there.

After drying, it seemed to work as intended. Reassembled, taking extra care in rotating that shaft-plate while aligning the steering wheel. Working perfectly - for now. I've no idea if Crazy Glue will hold that plastic repair for any length of time.

P.S.
Side effect - turn signal on this Eagle has always been a little stiff. While taking it apart, I couldn't see anything broken, worn or loose. Contact surfaces were well greased. When all was re-assembled, the turn signal still works correctly, but now is smooth to actuate and smooth to turn off.

[Illeagle1984]

The Eagle's steering column is nearly identical to same year Chevy trucks.  I was just working on an 84 C10 pickup steering column and noted many similarities.  The ignition switch is even the same part number.  I can't remember exactly what the Eagle's looks like, but I think Dorman 49319 or 83230 would fit in there if the glue doesn't hold up.  They have other similar ones too.

The only downside to changing the lock cylinder is you can't start it up and take the key out anymore.

[Canoe]

Finally had the time to replace my ignition lock cylinder. Having to pop the hood to pull the cable out of the top of the coil to shut it off had already become very old...
...
I broke the plastic shaft for the horn pin ... broke the plastic shaft for the horn pin. Shaft broke off of the plate, and at the top end of the shaft, around 1/3 of it broke off  ... Crazy Glue ... After drying, it seemed to work as intended. ...

So far, so good.
Getting used to shutting the car off using the key.
Have to relearn that when parking, to not pop the hood...