Just got my first AMC, an 83 eagle.

[captspillane]

If you bring the vacuum valve to a hardware store you will find a bolt that matches that thread pattern. Mine has a bolt in that hole. I think its a fine thread metric bolt, but I don't remember.

[shanebo]

It is a fine thread metric but I cannot for the life of me remember what size it is.

[GRONK]

Haha, I wrote this and someone was kind enough to post it in the eaglepedia.  The engine is for a 258, however, it's really all the same minus the n u t t e r bypass.

[GRONK]

To do the "complete vac overhaul, you need a non-feedback carter or a Morotcraft.  Dare I say a Webber.  I of course recommend the Motorcraft and I still have the special running on the kits for fellow nesters.....

[captspillane]

just for clarification its  a 151, manual, factory A/C 83 sx4. 

His car is an Iron Duke, so he doesn't need a new carb. The Rochester carb is considerably nicer and better designed than a Motorcraft 2150. It transitions from idle to throttle circuits much smoother and is known for above average fuel economy. The only advantage the 2150 has is CFM, and that's a mute point with a 2.5L engine.

[GRONK]

If it's the 2.5 the Motorcraft is definitely too big.

[Johnknp]

cool, im gonna pull the engine & transmission next week so i can degrease and repaint the engine bay, while their out im gonna put new seals in both and probably paint the engine.  when it all goes back in Im going to rebuild the carb and completely redo the vac lines.  does anybody know of an alternative to the regular vac lines? Something thats longer lasting and a bit dressier maybe?  Theres got to be something like a nepoprene version that would last for 100 years and resist oil better, or maybe something thats colored brightly to add visual coolness and color coding ability. it would be neat if the 4x4 switch line was orange, the brake vac lines were yellow, etc... 

[WoodenBirdOfPrey]

Just google "colored vacuum hose", there looks like a bunch of options.  Here's the first one that popped up for me: http://www.hiperformancestore.com/HoseKits.htm

Just stay away from the cheap kits at advance auto, etc. in the import section - my cousin got a set of those for his car to replace all the cracked hoses, and the first time they got warm all the vacuum lines started to collapse.

[Johnknp]

ive scoured the forums here and the eaglepedia for some info on the charcoal canister mohiggy.  I would love to delete it, but Im not sure how. Ive found some threads on deleting the return fuel line but they never mention the canister itself. Does anybody know a way to remove the cansiter from the system and keep the original carb on the 151 iron duke? also, wheres a good place to buy a rebuild kit for the rochester carb, ive found several on ebay but not sure what i should be paying for one.  Im about to bust a blood vessel in my brain trying to find a header for the 151.  I know they put the iron duke in the fieros and the s10s and several other cars.  I would venture to say that the shorty header for a iron duke fiero would work just fine if im willing to plum the rest of the exhaust myself ( i am).  Before anyone says it  The manifold is rusted out and bent.  It is cheaper (unless I screw up and waste money on something i cant use) to get a header on it than a replacement stock manifold.  I can get a polished steel fiero shorty for about 90 bucks. Does anybody have any info on headers for the iron duke?

[carnuck]

You do know that charcoal cannister actually SAVES gas, right? You know that lovely gas smell you get when you fill up? You'll get that all the time if the cannister isn't hooked up and when you hit the bumps, the sloshing around of gas creates a vapor expansion that will push gas out of the tank either in vapor or liquid form.