After changing the strut rod bushings and lifting the bird, I have a little wandering and bouncing (clunking from the strut rods is gone, though). I'm going to eventually have a shop do an alignment, but thought I had seen where some have done it themselves. I'm trying to save money where I can and want to see if I can fix it myself. Can't find what I was looking for and thought someone could either point me to it, or give me directions for it and I'll take pics along the way and make a how-to.
Any ideas?
trapperjack
On my '81, I aligned the front end on a hoist. It should be doable on jack-stands too, but with the wheels (or at least the rims) mounted. Center your steering wheel. Turn the sleeves until both wheels are facing front, nominally parallel. Check to make sure your steering wheel is still centered. Then take your tape measure. You measure the distance between the outer edge of the rims (at the point half-way up the rim that would split the rim into a top and bottom half), from the back left rim to the back right rim; record this measurement. Do the same for the front edge of the rims. Compare the measurements. If they're the same (they won't be first time) then the wheels are parallel. Adjust each side, remeasuring after each adjustment, until they're parallel. Don't forget to check that your steering wheel is still centered.
Once parallel, adjust each side slightly, measuring after each left/right adjustment, until the front measurement is 1/8" shorter than the rear measurement: this gives you 1/16 of toe in (front is 1/16 inwards, back is 1/16 outwards for a total of 1/8" difference in measurement). I used 1/16 on my '81 SW and loved it (mind you I'd also done the caster and camber - using a measuring tape - first, also on while on the hoist). Check the TSM for what range is recommended for yours.
Tighten everything up so it won't move. Road test. Depending on the result, you may not want to pay for a front wheel alignment.
Thanks Canoe,
How do you adjust caster and camber? My Chilton's doesn/t show that. My pass. side front tire is out a little further on top than at bottom, not bad but easily noticed.
Thanks,
trapperjack
Where your lower control arm mounts to the crossmember frame you'll see the adjuster bolts that have eccentric washers on both sides. they adjust the camber. Loosen the nut while holding the head of the bolt. Once loose, turning the bolt will either push the control arm out or pull it in. Pushing it out tilts in the top of the tire.
Caster is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the strut rods. To lengthen the rod and push the bottom of the tire forward you would loosen the two back nuts off a couple of threads and tighten the front nut which would push the rod forward. To pull the tire rearward you would do the opposite.
Now the fun part, getting everything to move. On the camber adjusting bolts soak with penetrating oil and slowly turn the bolt back and forth. It's a good idea to use a small chisel or punch and mark the washer and a spot on the crossmember so you'll have a reference point to start from before you try move the adjuster. You might get lucky and it will move freely. Us rust belt guys aren't probably going to get that lucky.
The strut rod bushings are going to be another story. Don't know if you've ever seen what a new one looks like but there's a sleeve that slides over the rod and goes into the bushings. This is what allows the rod to move when you're trying to adjust caster. Over the years water creeps between the sleeve and the rod. Best case, in dryer areas, it might actually still slide. Worst case, that sleeve becomes part of the strut rod because of rust. Again, for us rust belt area owners that's probably the rule rather than the exception. If it wasn't so freaking cold I'd go out and take some pictures, that would better explain it.
Thanks Packrat and Canoe,
Hope to get a chance to try it this weekend.
Quote from: Pack Rat on January 26, 2007, 08:01:17 AM
......Now the fun part, getting everything to move. On the camber adjusting bolts soak with penetrating oil and slowly turn the bolt back and forth. ..... You might get lucky and it will move freely. Us rust belt guys aren't probably going to get that lucky....... Over the years water creeps between the sleeve and the rod. ..... Worst case, that sleeve becomes part of the strut rod because of rust. Again, for us rust belt area owners that's probably the rule rather than the exception. .....
I had to really bite my tongue (fingers?) at the "how do I remove tie rod ends" post. Around here, also in the rust belt, it's usually with a blow torch.
My Eagle came from Philly, and it looks like it. However, once I bought the $8.99 tie rod remover tool, I did not have any problems removing the tie rods.
pay close attention to adjusting caster....that's probably where your wander orginates....
I think I'm going to try this today, if the kids cooperate.
Do I want the front tires to hang down to do this? In other words, jack stands on the cross member (tires hanging) or under lower a-arms (supported)?
I have the tires and rims that were on the eagle before p.o. put jeep rims and new tires on. fronts are very scalloped, I'm sure that should tell me something, but what.
When I replaced strut rod bushings, I counted threads, and installed about like they were. At the ends of the strut rods I have about 4 threads showing on pass. side and 13 on d. side. Where do you measure from and to in order to determine how you need to change caster?
Sorry to have so many questions, but ya'll seem to know what your doing, and I want to get this thing going.
Thanks,
trapperjack
I'm just checking quickly as I have to go out know. I have to check for the caster and camber, but for the toe-in, wheels hanging are fine. You only need the rims, not the tire, in case that makes less work for you; the tires don't matter for this. It's also easier to do the camber if it's just rims.
I'll get back to this when I'm in later this evening if no one beats me to it in the mean time.
Sorry. I have been, and will be, out of commission for a few days.
Pack Rat has covered the how to, but I don't recall where the TSM recommends the measurements be made from. I don't remember how I did it so I'm going to have to look it up in the TSM to refresh.
Any word on camber adjustment, as far as adjusting with tires hanging or on the ground? Can the eccentric bolt adjust with that much weight? Is it proper to put grease sandwich plates under the tires to do this? I'm with trapper jack sorry about all the questions I'm new to this kind of stuff and ya'll seem to know.
thanks in advance.