I've been working on prepping the powertrain for my 4.0 swap.
Driveline info here: http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=22813.0
Front diff overhaul here: http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43409.0
Cliff's notes:
1991 4.0 with Eagle oil pan and oil pump pickup
2000 NV 3550 transmission
197x NP229 T-case
3.54 disco front diff
3.54 NON-C-Clip Dana 44 rear axle with disk brakes from a '98 Grand Cherokee
Dorked around with this a bit today. My dad had the engine on the chain fall instead of the engine stand while I was in Afghanistan. I was able to play with the Jeep exhaust pipe. I think I'll have to tweak the diff snout bracket a bit, as well as install the O2 sensor somewhere else.
This downpipe is so difficult to get into place that it's going to have to be a part of the powertrain assembly when it goes into the car.
(https://i.imgur.com/RmQmcFb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gjXZdFG.jpg)
Interesting that you chose to go on that side of the driveshaft, rather than around like the stock exhaust went... I made my 4.0 exhaust go around and it worked out fine, but I didn't think there would be enough clearance to put it where you did. I have also had my downpipe out several times without removing the engine, it's not incredibly hard to remove.
Mine is automatic though, so I did not have to worry about the slave cylinder.
I chose to use stock Jeep exhaust manifold and found a stock Cherokee downpipe to check for fitment. Therefore I didn't choose the routing. It's just a lot easier to use a pipe I can buy than to build one.
I *may* switch to the '87-'90 Cherokee manifold and downpipe, as that combination moves the joint significantly further back such that it might not be an interference issue with the differential snout bracket
Since I have the NV3550 trans, I picked up a clutch kit for a 2000 Wrangler.
The throw out bearing carrier included with that kit looks like this:
(https://www.rockauto.com/info/13/NS_FC69907_Ang__ra_p.jpg)
My engine was originally used with an automatic and thus does not have a pilot bearing installed.
I tried installing this carrier (in the correct orientation with the o-ring seal toward the clutch) but it feels like it's WAY too tight a fit. I got it to start, but it feels like I have to drive it harder than I think would be reasonable. Is this carrier compatible with the older 4.0 engines?
I found this unit, claiming to be for a '91. I guess I'll have to snag one and mic it and the later unit to see.
https://www.mymoparpart.com/p/Jeep_1991_Cherokee/Clutch-Pilot-Bearing-PILOT-BEARING/49564598/33004041.html?partner=googlebase_adwords_parts_color_make_model_year&kwd=&origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAiAj53SBRBcEiwAT-3A2JCaqUgADq-VV-yr55AO9Bz6iL8I2nXXugEEVgoesKxwSAo_fYqW0RoCDPMQAvD_BwE
(https://www.mymoparpart.com/images/uploads/SimplePart%20-%20Chrysler/fullsize/a_20151002_1440531730.png)
It looks like the large pilot bearing carrier is what I need, but it measures at 1.8158, while the crank bores measures at 1.8138. That's a 0.002 press fit! There is NO WAY I can install that by tapping it in with a hammer.
I think I'm going to hone the crank bore out until it's only 0.0005 or so smaller than the pilot.bearing carrier.
Despite advice to drive it in flush, I'll have to seat it all the way into the bore in order for the needles to end up in the same place as the original bearing marks on the input shaft pilot.
Got a machinist friend to turn the pilot bearing carrier down to 1.8145, while I honed the crank bore out to 1.8140 with a brake hone. The brake hone was basically a waste of time, BUT the result was that the pilot bearing carrier was down from 0.002 interference to 0.0005. It tapped in lightly and seated.
(https://i.imgur.com/LXSJPHj.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/B6YReAg.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/VV7scxT.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/WkA3Urh.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/JFYsQc0.jpg?1)