The steering wheel in my 1985 AMC Eagle 4-Door has developed a wiggle. I can wiggle it from side to side maybe 1 cm in either direction. It drives and steers fine but this issue seems to have happened quite suddenly and I am concerned that if it continues to loosen something major will happen.
I am not an expert mechanic like many of you seem to be, but I attempted to remove the two screws underneath the steering column hoping that I would find the source of the problem and be able to tighten whatever is loose but I could not find the origin.
The problem seems to be originating from under the Shroud, shift bowl (part 36.35.8.11 when referring to http://www.amceaglesden.com/images/Downloads/1984%20-%201988%20Parts%20Manual.pdf)
Does anyone have a simple way to get underneath this shroud and figure out what is going on?
Is it the top part that moves or the whole column? Top part on tilt column has screws that come loose that you need to take the column apart to fix.
If you look under the steering wheel, towards the front of the car there is a piece of plastic with 2 screws in it which cover part of the steering wheel. Remove that and you should have access to the 2 nuts which bolt to the "frame" that is welded to the firewall area. This is supposed to be solid and holds in the steering wheel. If it's still moving, you may have to follow this around to see if it's loose at the firewall as well. Chances are someone did an adjustment and neglected to tighten the nuts at some point, or there wasn't any loctite put on them and they came loose with age + vibration.
It is just the top part that moves, not the whole column. I did not realize there were 2 screws behind the wheel, going to get into those ASAP.
Thanks!
Ok, I removed the two screws behind the steering wheel and also the nut behind the steering wheel cover. I think the next step is to get a steering wheel puller?
My problem seems to be the same as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsIWG-hRfy0 for a 1991 GMC Suburban.
In the beginning he lists all the tools required. Will the 1985 AMC Eagle require the same tools? I'm about to head to AutoZone tomorrow for the steering wheel puller and would like to get all the parts I will need for this job.
It's been awhile since I've pulled a steering wheel (not on an Eagle) but I didn't need a puller previously. Before purchasing one why not try using brute strength and puling it up while slightly moving it side to side.
A steering wheel puller and steering lock plate press plus a tilt steering pivot tool and flexible screwdriver with allen key, torx and a few other screw tips is most of the tools you need. Basic tools like a good Phillips tip screwdriver and socket set for the big nut and you're good to go!
Full Size Jeeps share a LOT of parts with Eagles.
http://wagoneers.com/tech/Tilt-Column-Repair/steering-column.html
http://wagoneers.com/FSJ/Tom_Collins-oljeep.com/gw/82_tsm/Section%202J.pdf
Thanks everyone for your help. I was finally able to get back to this project after doing some work on my XJ.
I finished taking apart the column and Loc-Titing the Torx bolts deep within. Now I am putting everything back together and I have one mystery part that came out when I had everything flipped upside down to get to the Torx bolts. I have attached a photo. Does anyone have any idea what this piece is and where it goes?
I have watched seemingly endless youtube videos (almost every Chevy and GM from 1960-1990 uses the same column) and none of them show this part....
That is the spring that holds in the key buzzer switch.
Thank you Houston, good call! Although now I have a much larger problem. My Pivot Pin Remover broke off inside of my Pivot Pin! >:(
This seems to be a common problem with the Pivot Pin Removers from O'Reilly's, cheap pieces of crap. Looking around on the net, I have yet to see someone amend this. After drilling, hammering and welding they usually end up admitting defeat and springing for an entire new steering column from the junkyard.
Does anyone have experience with this problem?
Well, if you're going back together, just leave the busted part in there, and don't worry about it!!
My pivot tool dates back to the early-1970's, when most tools were well-made. So I've yet to experience that problem.
I would just put it all back together but I realized too late into the reassemble that the ignition switch actuator rack is improperly aligned with the sector that rotates and engages the switch, which is why I had to go back in and remove the pivot pins. The remaining pin is keeping me from getting back in there and realigning the ignition switch.
How I wish that tools were still well-made!
Hey; I've done that before (the rack botch)!! Only thing I can think of is to drill a new hole off-center in the pin, and jamb a sheet metal screw in it to use to pull it out. If you mangle the pin too bad, new ones are easy to come by.