Hi from San Antonio. My nephew, Hollis, is a member and has a 1980 Eagle 4dr sedan. All original that has sat in a garage from 1997 to 2014. It runs rough. I have heard that the carb is a bear to work on and can be replace by a Motorcraft 2100 or 2150. This is Hollis's first vehicle and I would like to get it up and running well enough for a 16 year old driver. Time is an issue so I was thinking of just replacing the carb. I understand 2100/2150 can be had in most junk yards. Is there any major changes required when swapping the carbs. Also most of the rebuilds I see are non-smog will that be an issue? Thanks in advance.
That carb is easy to work on the original i mean. It is also a non feedback or should be. I would rebuild it /fix it. Also check for vac leaks. It most likely has rubber lines older than your son by 2x.
What he said, those carbs are pretty simple pre feedback and can be quite reliable
Check each and every vacuum line, there is about a mile of them. One of those leaking will make it run rough for sure,
If you do go motorcraft, I did, you will also need an adapter plate and a way to modify the linkage. The motorcrafts do work well but the easiest fix for you might be to rebuild, or at least clean up, the one you have.
Thanks foe the replies. I will start with the vac lines. What motorcraft did you go with? 2150 or 2100?
Most are 2150's but the adapter that is available at your local part store is not a perfect fit. I'm running two of them on my kids cars, one has a gronk kit (available on e-bay) the other has a Mr. Gasket on a junkyard carb. The big thing with these cars is vacuum leaks. I have removed all the old lines and replaced with new only the necessary systems. Use the Den to research the full system and decide what you need for your area, snow, mud/ city, highway/ crawler, street etc. Some are going with a TBI off a 4.3 but that's a different story for a different day. Check the intake/ exhaust bolts for leakage before you toss a carb on, they are prone to loosening up and the previous owner might have adjusted the carb to compensate for the vacuum leaks
They are about the same, there is a whole section on here about the upgrade. They need to be modified a bit witht the right size jets to make them right.
It really made mine run great but I'm not sure it was just the carb as I also switched to an HEI distributor, got rid of the computer and eliminated all those hoses. I only have about three vacuum hoses now, one for spark advance from carb, one for 4wd and one for my guage and AC controls.
I like simpler
(http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s614/Amc1320/0209131654_zps5249e9c6.jpg) (http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/Amc1320/media/0209131654_zps5249e9c6.jpg.html)
The Carter is a huge pain in the butt. The only carb that is worse is the 2150. I don't wish either of them on my worst enemy. The Carter gets better fuel mileage, warms up smoother, and doesn't surge and over rev like the M2150. Its also cheaper and more reliable in the sense that a Carter can always be fiddled with good enough to limp home. The carter is in constant need of attention however. It is also much harder to tune. Quite a few people have just given up on the Carter even though it is slightly "better." Both suck.
If you do put a M2150 on the intake, do not use the Mr Gasket brand adaptor. It has the right holes but it also has several more holes that you don't need. A pair of those extra holes go right through the gasket sealing surface, leaving a gaping hole out the side of your intake. You can smush a large chunk of RTV in that void from above to make do for awhile, but its not permaneant.
AMC1320, that's a beautiful engine bay!
I overhauled my two Eagles BBD Carters, soaked them for 24hrs in solution, carb solution and put in a kit...ran beautifully.
I used to race Dodges and we were restricted to the size of carb we could run. I used the BBD from a 318 on pretty much everything so I learned the tricks as I went. I like the adjustable metering rod version but not the computer-carb although I can make do with it. I first modded a Chev 194 six to take one then some Ford inline sixes. It was always cooperative. I just dug up my Carter carbs repair manual (4 bbl and maybe 2 bbl) from the stack of automotive books I have.
I'm getting ready to sell off all my books soon ('38, '46?, '51 Motors manuals, Toyota diesels from the '80s still new in wrap, Chiltons truck repair and some others)
Hi i have had a 2100, from an AMC 304 on my slightly modified 258 since 01. Outside of adjusting the idle once or twice, I have not touched it. Car runs great. Only issue, I never got the choke quite right, but here in the south, not such a big deal. Don't know about the offshore 2150, I'd be wary of it. The adapter I used was from Offenhauser, a good piece, don't even know if they are still in business. Having said that, a nonfeedback BBD is also a good carb, and, if you really want to be different, a late 60's/early seventies Stromberg 2bbl, as used on Mopar 318's will also work, though you have to come up with a custom linkage. Easiest for now, rebuild your BBD. thanks gz