Having issues with my rear hatch on the Eagle. I just about can't get it to open with the key. It all started when a buddy of mine needed to grab something out of the back so I tossed him the keys and pretty sure he put the wrong key in as well as upside down. it takes a HUGE amount of force on the key to get the hatch to open and I'm afraid of breaking the key off. I've lubed everything up and still having issues. What do you guys recommend?
If pressing down on the hatch doesn't work, then a new lock. On my first wagon I used a Ford lock set (modded the hole slightly) The wafers have been damaged. A temp fix is to peel the cover off the lock and remove all the wafers, but then anyone can open it with anything.
When the hatch is open what does it do/feel like ¿
Good point. Use a screwdriver to lock the "catch" and try to open it.
Seems to be better with the hatch open but still not 100% smooth.
Can you still get the replacement lock cylinders? Already got one that's blown so I might as well replace all 3 if possible.
They're GM lock cylinders. NAPA has them. :eagle:
Also check with AMC of Houston. He may have some one, and be able to re-key it to match your other locks.
Yeah; I'll be happy to rebuild your locks with new tumblers and whatever else they may need. Cheap, too!! Just pay me for the parts and postage. Usually about $3 a lock if all it needs are tumblers and a new cap & shutter. I have a dealer key gun too, so I can make "as-new" keys rather than having a hardware store key grinder copy a worn out key (then you just get a brand new worn out key!).
Can still get new "empty" lock kits to key to whatever key you want -- but those were about $10-$15 each last time I checked (plus postage from the vendor).
Both of my Kammbacks do not have keys that work in the rear lock cylinder. It's much thicker than a normal one because it pushes on a slit to open the window. Rotate the key and the pushing part fits in the slot and doesn't push. My International Scout has the same one it looks like in the Traveler top.
Do you have replacements available for those lock cylinders too?
Also do you know when they stopped making the door and the ignition the same key? It seems like my 1980, some of my 1981s, and one of my 1982s use the same key. After that they all have a square and a round key. I'd love to make all my newer Eagles go back to having a single key for all locks, including the ignition.
On those hatch locks, I can't find anyone with replacement locks (I have one that style on my '77 Gremmie).
AFAIK (and according to my manuals), the Eagles always had 2 different keys; the square-head for doors and ignition, and round-head for glove box and trunk/hatch.
The biggest problem with the Kammback/Gremlin/Scout rear locks is that I couldn't take it apart without destroying the cover. It's really just a wide cover and door flap I'll need. I've already destroyed one trying and only have one lock between two cars.
I wonder if the cover and flap from a newer TJ will work. They have a few different diameters of locks. The lock from a flapped TJ door is bigger than a non-flap TJ door. Maybe your vendor has a list of available rekey cover kits we could scan for the right diameter.
On a few vehicles I've removed the tumblers on the rear door so that any key or screwdriver can open it. I doubt anyone will walk up to my rear door and try a random Eagle key into it. I usually can do it by repressing the same cover back on.
Quote from: AMC of Houston on July 03, 2014, 11:30:01 AM
AFAIK (and according to my manuals), the Eagles always had 2 different keys; the square-head for doors and ignition, and round-head for glove box and trunk/hatch.
AFAIK the square head key does not do any doors and the round key does all the doors including the hatch.
I'm pretty sure it was 1983 when round and square key blanks got a different "squiggle" so door keys won't fit in the ignition. Older than 1982 I'm pretty sure door keys will fit in an ignition. I vaguelly remember someone saying what key blanks fit what AMC cars and that the difference is the same for GM keys probably because Saginaw changed their ignitions key blanks across the board during Eagle production.
It's possible someone had my 1982 SX4 doors rekeyed to match the ignition, and if so I want to do that for more Eagles. I just have one square key to do everything in that car.
OK, I felt like torturing myself today; so I waded through my AMC parts books, and think I have a somewhat definitive answer re Eagle key changes. 1985 was the change year, that was when they went with the slightly different ignition lock & key (the RA-5 key with the little notch on the bottom). So here's the poop:
'80 - '84 All side doors in all models took the square-head key (RA-4 blank). The wagon, S/X4, and Kammy also used the square-head key in the liftgate / tailgate (RA-4 blank). The sedan however was different, and used the round-head key in the trunk lock (RA-3 blank). All glove boxes and storage compartment locks were the round-head key (RA-3).
'85 - '88 All keys in all models, except the ignition, were the round-head keys (RA-3). The ignition locks were the new RA-5 square-head key.
Hope this helps.
My '84 has the OEM keys and the only thing my square key will turn is the ignition.
I sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster into the hatch tumbler and it seems to have helped big time.
AMC of Houston-
The cylinder for my passenger door is completely blown out, key won't even go into it and the flap is AWOL. Thru the missing flap I can see a spring lying inside. Is that too far gone to rebuild?
Also do you do IHC Keys? I have a '75 200 4x4 truck that I purchased w/o keys and I'd love to have a set to work the doors.
Quote from: AMC of Houston on July 03, 2014, 05:33:16 PM
Hope this helps.
That is very helpful. Having people who are willing and capable to look up this sort of information is what makes it possible to to be successful in the repair of these vehicles. It is not humanly possible to take on all the little challenges oneself.
This forum and the AMC community itself is an impressive, valuable thing. Thanks again!
A question worth asking would be if a square RA-4 key blank can be cut to work as a replacement for a round RA-3 key. I have a couple sets of Eagle keys on my keyring that already show that they can be. A few of my cars have been copied to all square keys. The RA-5 key is obviously quite different with a narrow groove where the other two had wide grooves.
My plan then is to change the tumblers in the doors to match the ignition. Is it possible to read the teeth numbers from the door key and then replace just the tumblers in the ignition cylinder instead?
Quote from: Zoro on July 03, 2014, 10:33:03 PM
Also do you do IHC Keys? I have a '75 200 4x4 truck that I purchased w/o keys and I'd love to have a set to work the doors.
I'm pretty confident he could. My '80 IH Scout has the doors matching the ignition matching all off one identical "RA-4" key as used in the Eagles.
The end of your lock cylinder will have a different push or pull piece attached, but the tumblers and endcap will be the same as an Eagle and that's all he needs to disturb to rekey them.
To Zoro: No that Eagle lock is not too far gone; it can easily be fixed. About your Corn Binder key, I'm definitely not an Int'l expert, but it sounds like its the same thing. Worth a try maybe.
To The Capt: I also have some of my fleet that seem to have mixed and matched the RA-3 and RA-4 to whatever lock is there; so I'm betting that wouldn't be a problem. And yes; you can read the door key code and then change the ign to match ( or vice-versa).