My Concord has developed a ticking noise over the last few months. It's very noticeable under load, so when idling in drive, its most noticeable. Idling in park it quiets down and doesn't tick as much. I'm thinking that it's a lifter tick. Any easy solutions to this, or any other ideas? (I've heard that smog pumps can create a ticking noise when going out, but I took the belt off and nothing changed, so its not the air pump).
Could also be exhaust leak (loose manifold bolts) or loose flexplate bolts (if auto)
My dad's concord was ticking like that, then eventually it started missing
We took the valve cover off and the rocker bridge on the number one cylinder had broken, it was a pretty easy fix and now it runs smoother and quieter than ever.
I know it's a pain the take the valve cover off, but it might reveal the problem . Also while it's off you can paint it nice!
We had a 82 Eagle wagon that we had bought new and a year or so later I pulled a pop up camper with it and it ticked after that. I pulled the valve cover and found a bent push rod on number three cylinder. Put in a new push rod and problem solved. Drove that Eagle for ten years after that then sold it to my father in law who drove it to Florida and back to Ohio several times. He then sold it to my brother in law who destroyed it. Idiot!
I had a feeling it's related to the valve train as it sounds as though its coming from the top of the engine. I know AMC put out that technical service bulletin in 1982 about push rods being too short, I wonder if they were ever replaced in my engine. I was afraid the only solution would involve taking the valve cover off, really don't want too as its been leak free ever since I put the aluminum cover on 4 years ago. I will check the manifold bolts though.
The last couple years of tin cover 4.2L motors (first few Eagles) had a sticking valve issue on #2 cylinder.
Timing chain slop is my guess.
If it varies with oil pressure it could be a worn lifter.
Well I tried to investigate a little further. I pulled off the distributor cap then turned the engine back and attempted to count how many degrees the crank turned before the distributor started to rotate, and my estimate is about 6 degrees. I also took a couple of videos so you can hear. I doubt I'll be able to investigate this much further as I currently use the car everyday and do not have a second vehicle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJXbHNkXa4Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akOQjCqzYkM
Any thoughts based on the videos?
I have trouble hearing in person due to my head injury.
It sounds more metallic than I expect for a lifter. Try running it without belts (only a minute or two) to eliminate any accessory noise.
Quote from: BenM on June 09, 2014, 01:16:37 PM
It sounds more metallic than I expect for a lifter. Try running it without belts (only a minute or two) to eliminate any accessory noise.
Finally got a chance to do this tonight. Took off all the belts, and it didn't make a difference, still made the noise.
I am pretty sure it has someting to do with the flexplate touching the steel sheets that cover the lower gap of the bellhousing.
ANjo
They do that if the plate is dented OR the torque converter is about to snap it's neck.
To me it sounds like its coming more from the top and and front of the engine, but I cannot pinpoint it. I unplugged the vacuum advance hose today while it was idling in drive, and noise reduced to how it sounds while its idling in park, faint but still there.
Also, after observing under the hood for 5-10 minutes, my clothes really smelled like exhaust, starting to lean toward exhaust manifold leak.
Quote from: carnuck on June 21, 2014, 11:50:15 PM
They do that if the plate is dented OR the torque converter is about to snap it's neck.
Quote from: A-A EAGLE on June 21, 2014, 05:17:45 AM
I am pretty sure it has someting to do with the flexplate touching the steel sheets that cover the lower gap of the bellhousing.
ANjo
The transmission was rebuilt less than 2 years/15,000 miles ago. I'm not saying its impossible, just seams unlikely. It doesn't sound to be coming from the transmission either.
Try to use an auto mechanics stethoscope to detect where the sound is coming from. U can use a (long) screwdriver as alternative where the steel core goes trough the grip. Put the end on different spots on the engine and put your ear at the top end and listen. Abit rough but it can help to detect the problem.
Anjo
Holland
Just check if the sound is coming from the bellhousing. I had it several times without a big reason. Most of the time it just touches the metal plates.
Anjo
Holland
Make sure the converter bolts aren't coming loose! I've seen shops tighten only 3 of the 4 in the past.
Quote from: carnuck on June 24, 2014, 01:48:50 PM
Make sure the converter bolts aren't coming loose! I've seen shops tighten only 3 of the 4 in the past.
x2. I have had them come loose on me before and it sounded like I was about to throw a rod it was so loud.