Stalling issue.
My 84 eagle is currently at a reputable shop in the area, seems they cant find the solution. Anyone have any ideas? this is there description of the problem.
DIAGNOSE ENGINE STALLING. THE ENGINE WILL STALL WHEN COMING TO A STOP LIGHT 0.00
OR SLOWING DOWN WHEN TURNING A CORNER. THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH HAS BEEN
PREVIOUSLY BYPASSED. YOU JUST START THE ENGINE & IT TAKES OFF LIKE NOTHING EVER
HAPPENED. WHEN THE ENGINE STALLS IT JUST SHUTS OFF. NO CHUGGING OR HESITATION.
THE IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER HAS A PROBLEM IN WHICH YOU WILL GO TO START IT & IT IS
LIKE THE IGNITION ROD HAS FALLEN OFF. YOU TURN THE LOCK CYLINDER BACK & FORTH
WITH NO RESISTANCE. IF YOU TRY IT SEVERAL TIMES IT WILL ACT LIKE IT
RECONNECTS & STARTS LIKE NOTHING EVER HAPPENED. WE SPRAYED ALL OF THE SPARK
PLUGS. WIRES, CAP & ROTOR TO LOOK FOR SPARK LEAK. NONE FOUND. FOUND A SPLICED
WIRE TO THE IGNITION COIL TWISTED TOGETHER. GRABBED ONTO THE ELECTRICAL
WIRES TO THE IGNITION COIL. IT STALLED THE ENGINE. REPAIRED THE WIRES. GRABBING
ONTO THE WIRES NO LONGER STALLS THE ENGINE BUT WE STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM.
THE PROBLEM FEELS LIKE THE ENGINE WAS JUST SHUT OFF. UNABLE TO FIND THE
PROBLEM. NO CHARGE.
Really need help here... :help:
First, the coil connection on these was garbage. Second, the anti-stall vacuum stop may be missing or worn out. (side of the carb) The carb through bolts may be loose (REALLY common on BBDs and most don't think about it) Grab the carb and see if you can rotate the body at all. If you can, it's loose and needs the screws tightened up. That means remove the carb and tighten the ones up from the bottom too. New base gasket is important. Loose intake bolts cause a vacuum leak and do that too. A bad brake booster can cause it too.
I had an ignition box headed south and every time I took a fast right turn, it stalled and had to be restarted.
If the ignition module has the AMC sticker on it, then replace it with a good one. or better yet replace the distributor with something like the Skip White HEI set up. A good ignition module will run almost as much as the Skip White system and in the long run you will have a more reliable system. Yes, check the functioning of the anti stall device on the carb to make sure it is hooked up properly and see if it is adjusted properly. Your issue, as mentioned, could very well be vacuum related and that could be due to issues mentioned by carnuck or to some unplugged, misrouted or rotten vacuum lines.
check the idle air tubes on the carb are not plugged and have been enlarged per AMC service letter . You can swap plug wires one and six on the cap and start the engine and run the throttle a few times. this will backfire a couple of times. Then put wires back to original position and see if this helps for a while. This procedure blows out the idle air tubes until you get a chance to oversize them per the Service Info Letter http://wiki.amcevolution.com/index.php/September_1985_-_IS_34E_-_6_cyl._Engine_BBD_Carburetor_-_Restricted_Idle_Fuel_Pickup_Tubes
This was the cause of my stalling issue when coming to a stop and this procedure fixed it.
I've had to clean the idle air tubes (I've also heard them called venturi tubes) on 3 AMC 258's. I use a small piece of picture hanging wire to run up in the tubes to clean them out.
I've taken apart the carb two ways; the first way is traditional by lifting off the top of the carb but I've had trouble getting the accelerator rods (is that what they're called?) to fit back into the carb. The other way is to go in through the mouth of the carb, remove the choke plate, and lift out the Y shaped piece. You have to be careful not to drop the little screws in the intake manifold! I've stuffed a rag in there first and use a magnet when I dropped them.
I also had trouble similar on my 78 Pacer S/W. Turns out there was rust in the tank that plugged the intake. It would run fine at idle and pretty good on acceleration, up to the point the fuel bowl was emptied, then it would stall. I ended up putting a wire mesh tube over the inlet in the tank.