I just replaced the lift struts and the are working great.
But I can not get the hatch to release when I push the release button. The release is working but the hatch will not lift out of the latch. Any help out there??
Is the latch gummed up with old hard grease? Clean and lubricate it, even if doesn't look gummed up. Use a spray lubricant, not WD40. I like to use something designed for bicycle chains on latches and hinges called "White Lightning", its a non-grease/oil lubricant that dries to a waxy dirt and waterproof film. Otherwise, spray can white lithium grease works.
All cleaned and lubed
is your stricker adjustable? i had the same issue on my sx/4 and it is a pain to open the hatch with 2 people, i simply adjusted the hatch stricker so the hatch closed tighter and it solved the problem
Quote from: eagle87 on February 02, 2013, 01:16:59 PM
is your stricker adjustable? i had the same issue on my sx/4 and it is a pain to open the hatch with 2 people, i simply adjusted the hatch stricker so the hatch closed tighter and it solved the problem
Bingo, adjusted striker, closes tighter and pops open when release is activated. One more off the list, 300 to go........
lol what are some of the other 300 things?
you can also release the hatch manually by the inside of the car by using a screwdriver when the electrical solenoid doesn´t work or stucked, it hapenned to me couple of times
This is a very normal problem. There is a hole in your vinyl to reach with a screwdrive and pop the hatch manually from inside the car.
It's a ground problem most likely. Those used to get ground from a big pin in the back, which rusts and breaks often. Even when it is there it generally only provides a fraction of the ground necessary for a positive click. It is very important to jump a ground cable from the roof to the hatch, usually right there on the passenger side corner where your defrost wire bridges it if you have one. Before adding the bridge wire, I measured 4 volts across my solenoid. Immediately after the wire was added I measured the full 12 volts. It's a huge difference.
I also find that stubborn hatches, or bad grease, or rubbing all work to keep it from opening reliably. I also hate to walk around the car every time I want to get in the back. I add a simple switch in the glove box using the same wires. I then also add a doorbell right up above the license plate. If the switch in the glove box is off, then there is no power sent to the doorbell and the hatch is essentially locked. Turn the glove box switch on and it sends 12 volts to the doorbell, but it doesn't go to the solenoid until you walk around and push the doorbell. This means you are standing right at the hatch when you want to open it, and you can jiggle as you push it if it is ever stubborn.
On my car I actually added a second 12 volt power wire to a hidden switch accessible from outside the car. If I locked my keys out of the car, I would hit the hidden switch and the doorbell would have power even if the glove box switch was still off. Instant car unlock.
All is well on the hatchback release, thanks all for the help.
Great Idea on the outside release, might have to try that.
Again thanx all for the help..