I finally got my 83 SX4 at my new house and I am working on getting her road worthy. The Master, slave, and line are all brand new (remanufactured) and the it was bled using a vacuum bleeder. The clutch pedal has almost no resistance for 75% of the travel, and only barely disengages the clutch. I have a feeling that the pivot ball/bearing is either shot or missing. Is it possible to check/see it without removing the trans? I don't have a shop manual yet and I'm hoping I don't have to drop the trans myself.
Thanks!
Answered my own question... Ball is there, something went soft in the pressure plate. Can't see or tell what exactly, but the slave cylinder is almost fully extended. Looks like I need a clutch and will have to pull the transmission.
Anyone in the Hartford/Stafford Springs CT area want to help out for a day one weekend?
You may have lost the plastic tip for the slave (mine shattered on the XJ I had)
The slave was new (rebuilt) and as far as I can remember it didn't come with anything plastic on the rod. Is there a source for these or a workaround? How about new rubber clutch fork boots?
I've decided to do the clutch now anyway so I will get a better look inside.
I was going to run the '84 to '86ish 4 cyl XJ/MJ external slave on my AX-15. I won't be able to drive stick for a VERY long time (if at all) so I'm selling my TJ AX-15/NV231, T18A/NP208 combos to try and pay some bills.
Well that's no good. I'd go crazy if i was forced to drive auto. What did you do to get yourself mangled so bad? Hope you're healing alright.
Since the slave is new, I really don't want to buy another one. I remember seeing a picture comparing the 4 and 6cyl plastic dohickies. If they come off the shift shaft easily I would be willing to buy one and pay shipping. Otherwise a good picture with a ruler for dimensions would work too. I'm sure I can find some nylon round bar and make one myself.
I had a brand new ladder (supposedly "heavy duty", but on what planet is 250 lbs super duty?) fold under me while I was climbing a tree to cut down. Caught my pant leg and got flipped upside down and dropped on concrete and the ladder. Not a big drop, but I landed just wrong. Shoulder socket broke open and the ball of my upper arm pulled out. The yank on my leg upside down over extended the tendon in my leg.
I had a similar problem with my SX/4. The clutch would almost disengage with the pedal all the way to the floor. I would have to start it in gear to be able to drive it, and even then, it was difficult to get it into different gears.
I thought I had air in the clutch hydralic line, but could not fix the problem with repeated bleedings. Turns out that the clutch pivot ball was missing. Last time the trans was out, it must have fallen out. With the ball in place, the clutch was only slightly better. It still didn't work properly, though. Nest was to rebuild the master clutch cylinder, then the slave cylinder. After this, it still wasn't any better. I then put in new master and slave cylinders, but still no good. The hose that connects the master to the slave looked to be in great shape, but that was the only thing I hadn't done anything with. I figured that had to be the problem, so I pushed a piece of grass trimmer plastic line through. From one direction it went through, but from the other direction (from master to slave) it did not go through. I cut open the hose and found the inner rubber liner loose. When low pressure, like when bleeding, it was fine. But at high pressure, the inner wall would collapse and plug the line. I guess I should have suspected it earlier, since I know that rubber gets old and deteriorates with age.
At least now the whole clutch system is fixed and renewed for the next 30+ years.
I should add to the story that the missing clutch ball was cause for removal of the transmission, which led to a rebuild of the tranny. The 1st and 2nd gear syncros were worn. The brass syncros had wear, but it didn't seem like that much. The tranny shifts much smoother now, and I can downshift from 3 to 2 without problem.
That was my clutch ball story.
If anyone need clutch balls, I have some spares. Just send me a message.
Well, the trans is out finally and my clutch ball is there. The pilot bushing is ugly, as is the clutch disc. The flywheel actually looks freshly turned. You can see the tool marks in it and everything. ??? Oh well, won't complain there.
The plastic cone that is supposed to be on the end of the slave cylinder rod is not present. That was likely the original cause to the problem, but i'm glad I decided to do the clutch anyway. Any clue as to where I could find one? If not a good picture with a ruler next to one would work. I can make one out of nylon or something this week.
Not sure of the size. It's not very big, and I think it only adds about 1/2" to the length of the clutch shaft. A spring hold it between the fork and the slave cylinder. Can't take any pix now, as the car is in winter storage.
I think it looks just like this one: http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=200&rn=23&action=show_detail
Sure looks right
$14 for shipping... :o
I took the part number and ordered elsewhere 2 shipped to my door for ~$10. We'll give them a try, it will be better than nothing at least.
Now to figure out how the heck to get the exhaust off the header. Went to Harbor FrIght and got a set of hex socket adapters to try and use a box end wrench to get at them. My deep well socket is too long and my regular socket isn't long enough. grrr.....
Thanks guys, the plastic cone bearings came the other day and I just got to putting the new clutch in today and reattached the slave and bell housing. Things look much better now. The cone may be a hair too long but i'm not sure. How hard is the throwout bearing supposed to be pressing on the pressure plate fingers? The extra length is putting maybe 5-10 lbs on it.
It shouldn't quite touch when not depressed. It may seat deeper after you press the clutch though.