A question for the masses, I've gotten my 83 wagon to run good but it stays at a high idle for about 15 min give or take which is really hard on the drive train when its shifted into drive/reverse. After the idle finally drops down its just a tad too low and has a tendency to stall. The car drives down the road no issues there, but when idling through town and/ or coming to a stop it'll stall. What I'm wondering is which of the vacuum delays would be most likely to cause the extended warm up time? The vacuum and electrical systems are all stock and, I think, hooked up properly. I know there is the egr tvs cto vacuum switch assembly in the system but I don't wanna just start chucking random parts in there until I find the right one,. Has anyone else experienced this that has any suggestions.
On another note, where can one find the tiny retainer clips for the carb linkage?
Sounds like your electric choke is not getting voltage and requiring engine heat to open fully. This takes linger to open. Check and ensure you have 12V going to your electric choke. If "yes" add a ground to the metal choke retainer.
It could also be the fast idle cam is gummed up and sticking. Carb cleaner and an air compressor will clear that up.
Send a pic of the exact throttle retainer clip you need. I can get all of the clips.
it sounds like the old electric choke is stuck ,replace it with a new one and lubricate the whole mechanism and get sure to be hooked on 12 v from the alternator. that will solve the problem. good luck and happy repairings ;D
Sounds like a good place to start,I've always had trouble getting those darned electric chokes right.
If running straight from the alternator you should add a 12V ceramic regulator in line to regulate the voltage. The choke will eventually burn out if unregulated voltage is routed to it. Usually just adding a ground to the choke retainer does the trick.
In reading the info on the sprynet? page it says the coolant temp switch is supposed to change the engine speed after it hits 135 degrees now I'm on the hunt for one of those, and I'll be touching the choke settings again as it still wants to stall and run erratically
The choke is switched by an oil pressure sensor on the bottom back passenger's side. Check if the choke is getting power. If not, start at the oil switch.
You acn bypass the oil pressure switch and run the choke from the RUN position on the starter solenoid. This solves all voltage related issues from the switch. Add a ground wire tot he choke retainer too.
Thanx for the helps