Where does the dust protector bolt to on the bell housing i forgot since when i took it off? any pictures of it on??? And the trans place told me I should flush the lines before hooking up the tranny, How do I go about doing that?
Thank you
The dust shield upper half just sits on the alignment dowels on the back of the motor (make sure both are there or the bell housing will shift and destroy the converter and flexplate!)
You can get a flush in a can from parts stores, but the fitting it comes with is often wrong. I unscrewed the fitting from the bottom of my rad and got one that fit that the can could screw onto. Beware the plastic line coming apart! That juice REALLY burns when it gets in your eyes! (squirted in around my safety goggles dang it!)
(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u479/Logan_Zehr/IMG_0226.jpg)
This is the one I forgot how it went. The top half is already on.
When i put the spedo cable back in the transfer case. do i need to a get a new gasket or something? the book says something about this but im not sure what it ment.
I didnt take the tranny out, so i didnt pay attention much, but they guy who did it broke his back. So I have to do it now.
The pan has holes that line up with the edge of the front of the bell. On the Speedo, was the whole plug taken out? If so, it needs to be aligned to the correct gear tooth count on the eccentric. I replace the O-ring if it's chewed up or you get a slow drip. Breaking your back is no fun. I broke 2 vertebrae years ago and they still hurt. Even worse now my right shoulder socket is broken as well as my left hip!
how do you hook it up to the right gear tooth?
The TSM has some instructions on how to index the adapter.
On the piece that slides into the trans (I'm assuming you have the red plastic one) there are 3 or 4 alignment "notches" with numbers written above them. You count the number of teeth on the gear that goes into the trans (most are marked 32 or 26, etc on the gear face) and that number corresponds with the alignment mark on the plastic. On the transfercase hole there is a corresponding alignment mark so it meshes.
ok thank you!!! couple more things, dont worry ill paypal you for answering all my questions since your the only one who is. :P The guy who took it out has a cup here with the bolts labeled to where they go, But is there a way to know what bolt goes in what hole since they are all different sizes? And Is there somewhere i can get a stud for the transfer case. I cant find it anywhere.
Thanks!?
Take another stud (are you sure it isn't in the cup with nut on it looking like a bolt?) and get one similar. Except for leaks I have run only 5 in various vehicles. (some vehicles came that way due to trans mount interference)
I would put the bolts into the holes and they should all stick out about the same amount (1/2" to 1") for threads to catch and hold. The bottom 2 bell bolts are thicker and longer than the others intentionally.
Major problem!!!!! I dont think i lined the torque converter up right because when i bolted up the tranny. I heard a huge pop then they tranny just magically fit. But them i couldnt line up the flexplate bolts so i figured i must of ******* broke something. Would it be the oil pump or something? >:( >:( >:( >:( :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored:
No idea if this will help but I recently mated a Trans/Engine and forgot to mark the Flex Plate to TC bolts. Turns out they were mated perfectly and only matched up one way. Had a buddy crank over the V Dampener while I tried one bolt at a time. If the second didn't 'mate' backup, pull the bolt, spin the motor to the next hole. Repeat until I could thread 2 in a row.
Pretty awkward but it worked in the end.
yeah i think i messed something up, The ears in the bellhousing move around now. I dont think they should right? Thats what the torque converter slides on to
Sounds like you broke the front pump
Yeah i think i did, know of a place online i can order one? The next time ill know what not to do! :censored:
Those parts are the same as Dodge 904. You said something about something oval? Did you mean the flexplate? (http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/dor/04301-003.jpg)
Ill get a picture, its inside the shaft of the bellhousing the two ears in there that the TC meshes against, they seem like they are broke now.
(http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u479/Logan_Zehr/IMG_0228.jpg)
Inside of there there is two eear things that just move around freely now like they are broke.
Yup. You broke the front pump. You need one from a 999 or 998 Jeep or Dodge to fix it (sorry. Sold mine complete for $50 as a core) That or find a 727 from an '80 to '91 full size Jeep for more strength.
Would a 904 pump work? And a 727 pump will bolt right up with no mods?
If the back part of the original front pump isn't broken, then you can use one from a 904 and bolt that to it, otherwise it has to come from a 998 lockup compatible trans. (there are snap rings inside that need to match as well as the depth)
The FSJ 727 bolted directly in, BUT you need to change the external linkage from your original trans (and position it the same so the shifter and passing gear work) and make sure your flexplate has the correct bolt pattern to bolt up. I put the flexplate to the converter with bolts on, then spray paint through the large holes in the plate in one spot so aligning it is a snap in the car.
The 727 dipstick tube is a slightly different shape too (I couldn't get mine to stop leaking, even though I re-bent it)
i already have the whole tranny rebuilt. so its gotta be this one. Is there anyplace online i can get a new pump for this?
i found this online, but it says a904
Pump Assembly, 904 / A500, Lock-Up, 2 lug pump gear, 1978-UP
Quote from: 84eaglelmz on September 07, 2012, 10:59:40 PM
i found this online, but it says a904
Pump Assembly, 904 / A500, Lock-Up, 2 lug pump gear, 1978-UP
Pull the old one out and make sure it has the same number of snap rings and oil holes on the backside as the one you're looking at.
Most likely its just the gear correct so how hard is it to change just the pump gear?
Sorry been out with surgery to my shoulder and I'm just slowly getting back into all the websites I normally peruse. It looked like the whole front pump housing was damaged in that pic.
how can you tell that the housing is damaged? I think all thats broke is the part where the lugs attach to.
Open it up and look at the back for cracks in the housing.
I need a slider hammer for this correct? I have one but it has a hook on the end and thats it ???
If you look at the bolt holes you will see 2 are threaded. IIRC it's 3/8" coarse thread. You screw the bolts in and it pops off.
Ok got the pump replaced now its time to put it back in sometime!