New guy here,
Ive always wanted an eagle since I was a kid, but the pickings are slim here in the missouri rust belt. Every once in awhile Id check craigslist but never find a decent example for sale.
This one popped up in conway, ar, and I had to check it out. 88 wagon, 100k miles, an old lady bought it new and it never saw any snow or offroad use, at all. Always garage kept. $1000 Sounded too good to be true.
Completely rust free, not one spot, anywhere on or under it. When I tore it down in February I was amazed, never found a speck of rust anywhere under it, all the chassis bolts came out looking new, even the catalytic converter bolts came right out.
Body is very straight, good paint, and the interior looks like a brand new car!
I dont have any before pics:
(http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6011/0000021p.jpg)
(http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/823/0000019lh.jpg)
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9435/0000020v.jpg)
First off, the wheezy 4.2 had to go.
Built a 4.6 stroker, no EFI, sticking with carb. weber 38 will go on it later. Found out the hard way that a cherokee serpentine setup will not work in the eagle, alternator hits the frame. You need to source that from a wrangler.
(http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/5183/0000007ej.jpg)
Engine and AW4 trans installed. to shift the trans Ive got one of these: http://www.radesignsproducts.com/Baja.html (http://www.radesignsproducts.com/Baja.html) its a manual shifter that hooks up with just a couple of wires, throw that stock tcu and sensors away. A friend of mine has one in his xj and its awesome. I will have to hook up the Tv cable to the carb, but Im not there just yet.
For the transfer case I picked up a pair of 242 selec trac cases for $125 , one had a cracked case, the other blown up. I was able to take two and make one, eliminated the slip yoke while I was at it. I did have to whack the floor a little for the case to clear, under the drivers seat. the speedometer cable does clear, barely:
(http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2493/0000014l.jpg)
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7704/0000018j.jpg)
I havent built the 4wd shifter yet, not sure what to use there.
For the suspension Ive fabricated my own lift, staying IFS.
the subframe and drag link mounts have been spaced off the frame, lowering the engine, front diff and lower a-arms 2" off the body
(http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6058/0000009h.jpg)
Tricky part is what to do with the steering and the upper control arms. Didnt have time to build new ones, so I built arm extensions to mount the ball joints out of 2x3" .250 wall rectangle tube, shaped to fit into the arm recess snugly. The problem most folks have extending the stock arms is getting the geometry correct. Im a good hand with suspension, built a pair of successful road race cars in the past.
By extending the ball joint straight off the arm, you end up with positive camber, and also little to no caster.
with the two inch spacing I ended up offsetting the ball joint .6" inward and .25" toward the back.
at ride height there is exactly 0deg camber with the adjusting bolts centered, 6.5deg caster. The front geometry behaves itself through the full sweep of movement.
(http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/8034/0000013jv.jpg)
Now I had to do something with the steering, it had to drop 2" like everything else. I upgraded the p/s gear to a variable ratio box from a jeep zj and mounted it with a drop plate I made.
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4149/0000011c.jpg)
I cut the end of the stock column off and replaced it with a flexible gm unit
(http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8572/0000010bn.jpg)
And I also had to drop the idler arm bracket as well:
(http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/21/0000012w.jpg)
I used a modified stock trans crossmember dropped 2" down and moved back to accomodate the longer trans:
(http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9963/0000015s.jpg)
With all that done all the suspension geometry and cv angles are the same as stock, but its all moved 2" away from the body.
The rear isnt done yet but Im using cherokee springs with a limited slip D35. I wanted a late model 8.25, but the d35 was a good deal.
Thats it so far, next I need to get the rear put together and figure out front vs. rear ride height.
I need to come up with or fab a 4wd shifter
Got to get a wrangler serpentine accessory set and install that
I need some parts though, cant find anything locally.
3.54 front axle
front skid plate
drivers ext. door handle
Also I have some nice parts to sell of or trade,
The 4.2 block and head are in fantastic condition, neither need any machine work. I stole the crank and rods for my stroker, but the rest of it is there with aluminum valve cover
np129 tcase with vaccum thingy
Another fellow Missourian! Where are you located? There are a few of us out there...though I'm currently Eagless, I too am thinking of heading down to AR to purchase another one.
Looks like you had a very nice Eagle to start with and at a great price! Awesome build, you really put some work...and some math into this thing! Look forward to following!
I like it. What ignition are you running with?
Wow nice build! Can't wait till you road test it!
Wow, I like it! This may be a solution for your transfer case shifter. http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm Look forward to the finished product.
Impressive. It's nice to see someone finally pull off a 2" upper control arm spacer. Its been suggested many times, but no one has ever posted a working example. You should be extremely proud of your Eagle.
What Slip Yoke Elminator kit did you use?
I really like the AW4 with manual shifter idea. Very nice work you've got there. Your best bet for a 3.54 front axle is finding a 4-cyl parts car, but you can also check in the "For Sale" section here.
I hope you'll at least give the underbody a thorough rubberized undercoating, if not something a little more "industrial". The factory Ziebart stuff isn't so great, at least not after 30 years, and rust is almost guaranteed if you drive it regularly. Good to have it protected before it shows up ;D
Quote from: Baskinator on July 18, 2012, 09:27:19 PM
The factory Ziebart stuff isn't so great
That's a gross understatement. There were multiple lawsuits that put that company out of business. The argument is that the coating is oxygen permeable, so air still gets through and the paint underneath is still on its own to prevent rust. Then it also pulls away and traps moisture underneath it, causing premature rust to start. The Ziebert stuff may actually cause rot to form faster and be more deadly than paint on its own.
I blame that junk for doors rotting out along the kick strips. Give a door a good kick and the junk just cracks and falls off, exposing unpainted surfaces.
I like the setup. I am kind of partial to the body lift approach.
Quote from: mach1mustang351 on July 19, 2012, 12:29:24 AM
I like the setup. I am kind of partial to the body lift approach.
I borrowed most of my front end ideas from your build thread, giving credit where its due.
I am from springfield mo,
going to use an Hei for ignition, keep it simple
Eaglefreek have you tried that novak shifter kit in an eagle? I was looking at it too but Im not sure if the brackets would fit the floor?
havent got a clue about tire sizes yet. I am reluctant to hack the fenders and quarters up to fit tires ,Id like to keep it reasonable, thinking maybe 30" 9.5? I did install new espo springs along with the lift, so it may end up more like 3" lift? I also got some kyb gas a just shocks in there, they are fantastic on my big mopar, I figured the eagle would like a set too.
Did not use a kit for the sye, the only one you can get for the 242 is a hack and tap setup, I did that on my own using a 1.75" 3/8 allen bolt slathered in loctite. cut the shaft and existing yoke down.
For the exterior, Im building some massive bumpers, big roof rack, and I ended up getting a dozen repairable spotlight assemblies from work, so well see how many I can fit on there. Also I plan to repaint the maroon lower parts satin black along with matching wheels.
The one thing my car lacks that really bums me out is the woody side panels! is that a sticker treatment? or is there more to it? I want woody panels so bad.
I took my front axle to the diff shop along with a jeep 3.54 carrier and pinion before I figured out the 2.35 housing wont play along. So ill take any other ratio in a non-disco axle I can get Ive got a fine np129 ill trade for one, its got a good vaccum thingy with it.
hopefully Ill get this car done this summer, my mopar build stalled out and has been sitting a couple of years now. Ill finish it after the eagle is done. something about a stroked big block and $3.50 gas prices kinda put that one on the backburner
I bought a set of xj leaf springs off CL today for $50, got them home and found one was cracked badly! whoops. I guess Ill have to just buy new ones, all the used cherokee springs Ive found have been in terrible shape. I seriously doubt Ill be getting a refund.
Thanks for the kind words folks, when this thing gets near done Id like some help naming it, I still have no idear what to call it.
Quote from: anrkii on July 19, 2012, 02:39:54 AM
The one thing my car lacks that really bums me out is the woody side panels! is that a sticker treatment? or is there more to it? I want woody panels so bad.
It is a sticker treatment. Though I am not really sure where everyone gets there's. I know Jim redid one side of his 88 wagon, he should know.
With woody's they had chrome trim framing around all the wood, though that shouldn't kill the deal. I think one could get away without the trim.
No more stealing Eagles form Arkansas, we have slim pickens as it is ;)
Looks like this is going to be a nice build and an envious Eagle! Congrats!
Jim actually did both sides of his 88. I'm not sure where he got the vinyl, but it is much darker than the original. I found some pretty close matches on Ebay and was going to do my skid plate on my old wagon. The company is called metro styling and the wood I went with was called teak.
(http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy46/Prafeston/20120514_105615.jpg)
I did try it on my Thule windscreen...was a lot harder to apply than some videos I had seen.
(http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy46/Prafeston/20120715_182512.jpg)
Your craftsmanship is evident. I've seen the 242 SYE kits and realized you had found a different one or made your own. It looks like you just unbolted the piece of aluminum that shrouds the slip yoke then cut the slip yoke down a few inches, drilled and tapped a hole, and then bolted the slip yoke in place. Was it difficult to drill and tap the hole? Did you use a different yoke?
Thanks for sharing your build! It is one of the most impressive I've ever seen.
Quote from: anrkii on July 19, 2012, 02:39:54 AM
Quote from: mach1mustang351 on July 19, 2012, 12:29:24 AM
I like the setup. I am kind of partial to the body lift approach.
Eaglefreek have you tried that novak shifter kit in an eagle? I was looking at it too but Im not sure if the brackets would fit the floor?
No, I haven't. My lifted Eagle with a NP231 has some "custom" engineered linkage that doesn't want to go all the way back into 2wd once and a while and I thought about trying that some day.
Btw, I live in Rolla and do come to Springfield some. Went to college at Drury in town there. Also j2sax lives south of Springfield a ways. He's got two Kammbacks and an SX/4.
Theres two types or rear seal housings on 242s, one has the long housing with seal that rides on the slip yoke, and the other has a flat piece with a seal that rides on the shaft itself. I lucked out and got a pair of the latter. I measured about 10 times before cutting and drilling, and I just whacked a slip yoke down to size. Used an extra long bolt to hold it together. I think it turned out well.
Im not sure about that novak shifter, the cable bracket bolts through the floor and it needs a good sized flat spot to mount up. Ive got a gm shifter I might try to cut up and ,make work.
Im wating for payday before I can do much else, the guy who sold me junk leaf springs is nowhere to be found, big surprise.
Quote from: anrkii on July 19, 2012, 02:39:54 AM
Quote from: mach1mustang351 on July 19, 2012, 12:29:24 AM
I like the setup. I am kind of partial to the body lift approach.
I borrowed most of my front end ideas from your build thread, giving credit where its due.
Thanks man. I appreciate it and I am glad it gave some inspiration. Have you come up with a steering plan yet? Are you dropping the idler and the steering gear or going a different way?
I have a 242 in mine. I went with the Novak kit but I went with the linkage setup. it is okay but I have had to modify it a few times to get it to work. if I had it to do over I would go with the cable.... I still may
Great find. I need to get looking as there just can't be too many left like this. It's exactly what I would like to come across.
Looking forward to see how it comes together.
Quote from: mach1mustang351 on July 20, 2012, 01:29:20 AMHave you come up with a steering plan yet? Are you dropping the idler and the steering gear or going a different way?
This is from his post
"Now I had to do something with the steering, it had to drop 2" like everything else. I upgraded the p/s gear to a variable ratio box from a jeep zj and mounted it with a drop plate I made.
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4149/0000011c.jpg)
I cut the end of the stock column off and replaced it with a flexible gm unit
(http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8572/0000010bn.jpg)
And I also had to drop the idler arm bracket as well:
[imghttp://img717.imageshack.us/img717/21/0000012w.jpg][/img]
Quote from: anrkii on July 19, 2012, 01:37:03 PM
Theres two types or rear seal housings on 242s, one has the long housing with seal that rides on the slip yoke, and the other has a flat piece with a seal that rides on the shaft itself.
That's precious information to me. Eggs awarded. Both of my 242's are the first type, and I was at a loss at how you retained the seal. This is something I will do for my own Eagles in the future. Thank you!
Quote from: anrkii on July 19, 2012, 02:39:54 AM
Quote from: mach1mustang351 on July 19, 2012, 12:29:24 AM
I like the setup. I am kind of partial to the body lift approach.
I borrowed most of my front end ideas from your build thread, giving credit where its due.
I am from springfield mo,
going to use an Hei for ignition, keep it simple
Eaglefreek have you tried that novak shifter kit in an eagle? I was looking at it too but Im not sure if the brackets would fit the floor?
havent got a clue about tire sizes yet. I am reluctant to hack the fenders and quarters up to fit tires ,Id like to keep it reasonable, thinking maybe 30" 9.5? I did install new espo springs along with the lift, so it may end up more like 3" lift? I also got some kyb gas a just shocks in there, they are fantastic on my big mopar, I figured the eagle would like a set too.
Did not use a kit for the sye, the only one you can get for the 242 is a hack and tap setup, I did that on my own using a 1.75" 3/8 allen bolt slathered in loctite. cut the shaft and existing yoke down.
For the exterior, Im building some massive bumpers, big roof rack, and I ended up getting a dozen repairable spotlight assemblies from work, so well see how many I can fit on there. Also I plan to repaint the maroon lower parts satin black along with matching wheels.
The one thing my car lacks that really bums me out is the woody side panels! is that a sticker treatment? or is there more to it? I want woody panels so bad.
I took my front axle to the diff shop along with a jeep 3.54 carrier and pinion before I figured out the 2.35 housing wont play along. So ill take any other ratio in a non-disco axle I can get Ive got a fine np129 ill trade for one, its got a good vaccum thingy with it.
hopefully Ill get this car done this summer, my mopar build stalled out and has been sitting a couple of years now. Ill finish it after the eagle is done. something about a stroked big block and $3.50 gas prices kinda put that one on the backburner
I bought a set of xj leaf springs off CL today for $50, got them home and found one was cracked badly! whoops. I guess Ill have to just buy new ones, all the used cherokee springs Ive found have been in terrible shape. I seriously doubt Ill be getting a refund.
Thanks for the kind words folks, when this thing gets near done Id like some help naming it, I still have no idear what to call it.
Here's some info about the woodgrain decals/tape. Hope it helps.
http://www.stationwagonforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16678
Quote from: eaglefreek on July 20, 2012, 07:05:28 AM
Quote from: mach1mustang351 on July 20, 2012, 01:29:20 AMHave you come up with a steering plan yet? Are you dropping the idler and the steering gear or going a different way?
This is from his post
"Now I had to do something with the steering, it had to drop 2" like everything else. I upgraded the p/s gear to a variable ratio box from a jeep zj and mounted it with a drop plate I made.
(http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4149/0000011c.jpg)
I cut the end of the stock column off and replaced it with a flexible gm unit
(http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8572/0000010bn.jpg)
And I also had to drop the idler arm bracket as well:
[imghttp://img717.imageshack.us/img717/21/0000012w.jpg][/img]
Wow... my bad. I completely missed all that
Quote from: captspillane on July 20, 2012, 08:18:04 AM
Quote from: anrkii on July 19, 2012, 01:37:03 PM
Theres two types or rear seal housings on 242s, one has the long housing with seal that rides on the slip yoke, and the other has a flat piece with a seal that rides on the shaft itself.
That's precious information to me. Eggs awarded. Both of my 242's are the first type, and I was at a loss at how you retained the seal. This is something I will do for my own Eagles in the future. Thank you!
Ya eggs for sure! that should make its way into Eaglepedia.
Finally got my leaf springs figured out.
Other than the length and mounting , I didnt see any difference in spring height between the cherokee springs.
I bought a 3" lift full length add a leaf for a cherokee and beefed up the stock springs with them.
Poly bushings at both ends I had to order twice, the ones listed for eagles are not correct, prothane pn# is a 1-1008 for the eagle.
the end result looks good, Ill figure out if any adjustments need to be made once I get it sitting on wheels.
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6301/0000024se.jpg)
Ill order all my rear brake crap this weekend and maybe pick up some wheels.
Somebody sell me a 3.54 front diff already!
I have some of the Cherokee Turbine wheels...also called Turbo Cast II I think.
They need refinished.
(http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy46/Prafeston/20120711_194408.jpg)
I have a set of 5 if you are interested shoot me a PM.
The Cherokee turbine rims are one of my least favorite rims, and real Turbocast II rims are my all time favorite rims. Here is a comparison picture to Turbocast IIs. They were only called "Turbocast II" by AMC in 14" but the company also sold them privately in 15" under a different name. They are often called "Vector" rims as famously used on the General Lee car, but they are actually one spoke and stylistically slightly different than the real Vector rims. They were common on Spirit AMXs and Spirit GTs and would obviously look great on an Eagle.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/2012%20Eagle%20Web/TurbocastRims2.jpg)
Other than condition, not seeing a lot of difference between the Cherokee turbine wheels and the Turbocast II wheels.
Yeah, they are pretty similar. Don't see why you would hate one and love the other, but the Turbo Cast II wheels do have more spokes and they are skinnier(the spokes that is..the wheels themselves might actually be wider). They are also more deep dished so they don't fit as well on the Eagle. I would agree the Turbo Cast's look better, but the Cherokee Turbines I think are a nice fit and look on an Eagle.
Quote from: Prafeston on August 21, 2012, 12:57:26 PM
Cherokee Turbines I think are a nice fit and look on an Eagle.
Not to mention cheaper and easier to find!
Yeah, Im probably going to go with the jeep turbines,
maroon parts , grill, and wheels will all be coated with bedliner. Sounds crazy, but bedliner looks amazing on wheels!
The Jeep turbines look like star shaped hubcaps to me because of how flat they are. The spokes stay thick all the way across so they look like the spokes you'd find on the wheels of a red toy wagon with a puppy on it. Turbocast II and Vector rims have blades that narrow to a point and depth that make them come at you, like you're bing shot at drive-by-style by the Ateam van. The Jeep turbines make me think a tiny dog is in command of the vehicle, the Vector rims make me think Mr. T is driving with a mini-14 blazing. I see a night and day difference.
I do love the idea of coating them with bedliner. The texture and color matched to the vehicle would be pretty cool. That would resolve the cheap hubcap look nicely. They should really match the vehicle and look very utilitarian that way.
Quote from: anrkii on August 20, 2012, 03:48:51 PM
I bought a 3" lift full length add a leaf for a cherokee and beefed up the stock springs with them.
Poly bushings at both ends I had to order twice, the ones listed for eagles are not correct, prothane pn# is a 1-1008 for the eagle.
This is great information. It is well appreciated and some eggs are in order. Your Eagle is coming together nop-notch.
Ok,
I got my wheels painted (coated?) and they look fantastic. I think Ill skip the center caps, though.
These pics are pretty much ride height, on 235/75 cherokee tires:
(http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/9440/0000026c.jpg)
(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/3372/0000027ky.jpg)
I may need bigger tires, 30 or 31" I dunno. I dont have an axle, engine accessories, battery or hood on yet, so the front should drop an inch with all that on there.
Still looking for a non-2.35 non disco front diff. Id appreciate any help finding one folks!
I really dig these tires:
(http://my.project-jk.com/data/500/Destination-MT.jpg)
My buddy may be working for firestone soon, Big discount I hope.
watching this thread, very interesting what you did for lift in the front.
Looks great man...figure out how you are going to mount that skid plate yet?
I have a hood for free if you come and get it, or pay for shipping. It is in California.....Rich
the wheels came out awesome
wow looks cool i am wondering how well it drives thou?
Finally got my shift linkages all done.
(http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7569/0000028x.jpg)
(http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6049/0000030e.jpg)
First thing youll ask, is why the heck is it gold? Because its the only color speedway had left of the $15 closeout shifters. Discount bling is the best kind.
I purchased a different transfer case lever and mounted it upside down, stuck the shifter through the floor and made a linkage. I need to add a boot to it but Ill deal with that later.
The transmission linkage was a pain. I had to drill out the aw4 lever cut and reweld it in a different position and then play with the length and angles until it all shifts happily. I was glad I could get the stock shifter to work with the aw4.
I have not installed the electronic shift controller yet, thats a project for another day.
:occasion14: Looks great.
I like the bling! Plus the hole drilled out make it look like a pair of brass knuckles! :)
so how well did the speedo cable line up and have you thought about going with toggle switches, for the trans shifter.
Wow, cannot believe i missed all this and I am just South of you! Unfortunately, my recent familial changes have made my spare time at home pretty precious. I am coming through Springfield today on the way home from Hays, KS. Need to swing by and check out your project... maybe we can do lunch sometime!
You must be the guy who was asking about the front end... more motivated to get it to you know... if I can FIND the dang thing! I actually have this weekend slotted to start cleaning the shop again as I want my 2 post up by December. Feel free to give me an @
[email protected].
Will you have it done in time for the "Christian Crawlers" event or the Thanksgiving event at SMORR(.net)? That place is a blast and it woulds be good to see an Eagle out there... only had an Eagle out there once as I have a lifted Wag, but it really amazed people!
Quote from: max98059 on September 13, 2012, 12:03:06 PM
so how well did the speedo cable line up and have you thought about going with toggle switches, for the trans shifter.
Speedo cable wasnt too bad, just enough gap to get it in there. However I did have to custom make the cable, because the 242 case takes a large threaded end, and so does the cruise control hookup. I searched catalogs and there are no speedo cables out there with two large threaded ends. So I bought a new cable, cut and crimped the large end off of the old one.
Heres the shifter Max:
(http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/awshift2/awshift2-1.jpg)
Ill put it on a bracket in between the seats, One wire to switched power, two wires to the trans solenoids. Ill also need a seperate switch for the converter lockup. Easy stuff. Adding indicator lights and other doo-dads are optional.
oh cool i used toggles for mine. for my speedo i used the spirit cable drilled a hole and then used the 129 tcase gear fit just right. i do like the 242 tcase. the gear set will work for your set up
Quote from: anrkii on September 13, 2012, 03:06:22 PM
Speedo cable wasnt too bad, just enough gap to get it in there. However I did have to custom make the cable, because the 242 case takes a large threaded end, and so does the cruise control hookup. I searched catalogs and there are no speedo cables out there with two large threaded ends. So I bought a new cable, cut and crimped the large end off of the old one.
Great work!
If you unplug the entire speedo adaptor your stock Eagle speedo cable works. I'm avoiding this because I hate removing that every time I go to pull the transfer case.
The 242 speedo adaptor is in two parts. The CPS sensor has big threads toward the transfer case and small threads on the other side. The small threads on the CPS sensor are identical to the small threads on the back of the Eagle speedometer. The big threads are the same as a CJ7 Dana 300.
I really like your t-case shifter handle, could you post a link to where you got it? I'm looking for a way to eliminate the vacuum system and still be able to shift my stock NP129.
Nice work throughout. I wish I had more time before the big move to do some of this fit and finish stuff like you have done. All in time I guess. Once again. Very good work.
I sold my scca road race car today, now theres a big pile of eagle parts on the way, good updates soon
You still in need of another Cherokee Turbine Wheel?
Yes, actually I still need one if you head this way anytime soon.
thanks.
Ok, got a little done this week.
I bought most of the underhood parts, and a few other goodies as well.
Got an unused header off of craigslist for $80. Fitment was late 90's grand cherokee.
Not a good fit at all. The diff bracket is in the MIDDLE of the collector pipe, no amount of bracket whacking will solve that. (http://imageshack.us/a/img208/7697/0000032h.jpg)
So I cut a small wedge of pipe out, rotated it and welded back up:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img202/7785/0000035y.jpg)
No bracket mods required. But I also had to pound the upper pipes quite a bit to fit under the carbed manifold.
Im not thrilled about the manifold mounting, either. But the clifford research 4.0 carb manifold is $300 so Ill just see how the old one works out.
HEI looks huge on an I-6, it doesnt quite hit the oil stick: (http://imageshack.us/a/img196/8798/0000031o.jpg)
I also have the serpentine setup figured out and a radiator ready to install, but Ill get the pics for that mess next time.
I havent updated in a month, but I have been hard at work on the car,
I replaced my door handle, fixed the mirror, and put in a keyless entry:
I bought a $30 kit from ebay: (http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/502844549/Car-4-font-b-Doors-b-font-Remote-Central-font-b-Locking-b-font-font-b.jpg)
the front door was super easy, only had to drill one hole, its highlighted in orange.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img99/7100/1002979.jpg)
the screws straddle the oval hole perfectly
(http://imageshack.us/a/img19/4606/1002980o.jpg)
back doors werent bad, either. I had to drill a hole in the bottom or the door to run the wires in and heres the solenoid mounting, drilled holes in orange:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img43/9379/1002981o.jpg)
I also bought a nice champion welded aluminum radiator for a jeep cj for $150.
Its an easy fit. I had to redrill the mounting holes and add an aluminum spacer for ac condenser clearance:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img171/2420/1002982j.jpg)
I have also been busting butt on the electrical system.
I removed all of the emissions and carb related wiring. Then I had to change the starting circuit around for the later style starter, add relays for fuel pump, electric fan, three different light circuits (more on that later), then fuses for the HEI, and alternator field. I had to add an external regulator for the later style alternator, since thats in the ecm I dont have, I also changed the tstat outlet out for a cherokee model with the switch in it to run the fan.
All of this is routed through an aftermarket Bussmann combination fuse/relay block and a couple of external HD relays for the fan:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img42/8033/1002984o.jpg).
Ill show off the interior switches and controls once thats all tidied up.
Its almost ready to start for the first time, I still have to make a lower radiator hose, and put in trans cooler lines and fluids. Once it runs I can get started on all the fun stuff I have planned for the exterior.
Great progress. How many fuses and relays are there in that Bussman?
Quote from: eaglefreek on November 13, 2012, 09:57:24 AM
Great progress. How many fuses and relays are there in that Bussman?
The box I bought has 5 mini relays and 10 fuses, and uses weatherpack terminals. With the cover on its 100% waterproof. the box and terminals ran me about $50 from waytek.com. also, weatherpack crimpers are required, they are about $25
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog225/#/133/OnePage (http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog225/#/133/OnePage)
Im looking forward to getting this thing running.
Thanks for the link. I grabbed a fuse and relay box from a Camaro for my future Megasquirt project. It holds 8 relays and 12 fuses. The one you posted is a "cleaner" option but I may need a couple more relays.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/svoman2300/photobucket-3711-1352833218818.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/svoman2300/photobucket-1312-1352833183894.jpg)
I finished up the interior wiring and whatnot.
Oh the humanity!:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img189/1782/1002985oq.jpg)
Ended up with this:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img9/8356/1002989r.jpg)
The trans shifter is installed on a little pod between the seats, the switch next to it is for the TC lockup.
The five switches in the console are Power locks, fan, and three circuits for lights.
Not too shabby.
My thanks to PeterM for fast shipping on that console
Very nice set up, clean and simple.
if the trans shifter is between the seats what are you going to do with the factory shifter??
Quote from: mazdaman222 on November 20, 2012, 07:52:11 PM
if the trans shifter is between the seats what are you going to do with the factory shifter??
The factory shifter is needed to use Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive. The one between the seats take place of the computer for the AW4 transmission so that he will have to manually shift through the gears while taking off and decelerating. http://www.radesignsproducts.com/Rail.html
ok i get it now, good idea
Alright folks I havent updated the thread in months, Not because Ive quit but because my camera broke.
where to start... Engine is done and runs, weber 38 , gm hei, and a whopping total of three vaccum lines:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img208/8629/1003048m.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img834/6146/1003062v.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img266/4721/1003063x.jpg)
the lower radiator hose was huge pain, no factory made hose or flex hose would work with the 2" body lift + cj radiator, so I used a 1.5" to 1.75" adapter from jagsthatrun.com ($12) and a 90 degree hose for both sizes.works great, no pinching, binding or rubbing:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img827/1426/1003051p.jpg)
got a 3.08 front diff non lockup from a local yard surprisignly enough and had the 3.55 gears fitted with new seals and bearings. I tried to explain the car to the old feller at the bone yard but I could tell that he had no idea. ;D
(http://imageshack.us/a/img43/1225/1003054y.jpg)
I also peeled all lower panels and bumpers off. underneath I found not one spot of rust of any kind! What are the odds, I know! I then taped of and bedlined the rockers and fenders where the flared and rocker covers go, sanded them down and did them as well.:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img254/2793/1003060l.jpg)
Notice the new tires?
thems some definity dakota 30x9.5 MT , fit perfectly, and they look business on the car:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img5/9485/1003045.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img715/290/1003061y.jpg)
Also I managed to rebend and modify the original tcase skidplate to fit this rig, it fits well:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img818/7135/1003056s.jpg)
and also a front skidplate has been fitted:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img585/438/1003047uq.jpg)
now lets talk bumpers, I am using leftover peterbilt frame crossmembers as material, they are "D" shaped and are 7/16" t6 aluminum, I have done the mockup and I intend to use the stock endcaps to finish the look" notice the front bumper is pointed in the center to match the front of the car!
(http://imageshack.us/a/img820/9305/1003046q.jpg)
thats the cardboard mockup, the real deal will be finished shortly.
I started and ran the car a bit, but the header blows a foot long blue flame upon the front driveline, so Ill need an exhaust before I can tune and drive the thing! :rotfl:
You know originally I only planned to replace the carb and MAYBE do a coil spring booster kit. So much for all of that now, oh well.
My kids will be like "Daddy drives a monster car WOOO!!" , and the wife. will be all like" my husband drives a monster car (facepalm)" . :banghead:
Its very close now,
alll thats left is exhaust and the bumpers.
Also I need lighting and plan to install a night vision system , comms, whole buncha foglights, fancy headlights, and a full roof rack.
Stay tuned.
Looking good! So 3.55 gears fit in a 3.07 axle without any issues? Were they 3.55's or 3.54's?
All right, I love it... Glad you didn't find any rust, with unibody's it seems like that's the most important thing when starting a build.... Mine is far from rust free... ;D
Quote from: eaglefreek on March 15, 2013, 07:01:27 AM
Looking good! So 3.55 gears fit in a 3.07 axle without any issues? Were they 3.55's or 3.54's?
you betcha. All of the carriers are the exact same, its the housing thats different.
the diff shop tried every combination of parts they could think of to swap my 2.35 gears out, nothing will fit it period.
with the 3.07 unit, they just popped the gears in there and its a done deal.
any front diff that is NOT the 2.35 will take jeep CJ d30 3.54 gears
I also have the 3.07 front gears if anyone needs them
Car is pretty much done, waiting for a trip to the exhaust shop.
After running it for a bit for engine break - in and carb tuning , I found that both the heater valve and core were leaking!
This guide : http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/amc/eagle/heater.htm (http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/amc/eagle/heater.htm) made the heater core swap a breeze, and I found a NOS valve for $50 on a popular auction site.
Now literally every part of the cooling system is brand new.
I built and installed the bumpers, and they turned out great!
(http://imageshack.us/a/img51/3148/1003068o.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img14/7966/1003071w.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img577/8068/1003070u.jpg)
They are made from cut and welded 3/8" aluminum peterbilt truck frame crossmembers bolted to a steel core, definitely the toughest parts of the whole rig!
Once I get the exhaust put on and liscenced Ill start daily driving the thing.
I still need to add a roof rack, brushguard, and lights but those are weekend projects I can do in my driveway later on.
:occasion14:
Looks great! Excellent work and congrats!!! :hello2:
Roll it outside and take some good pics and enter it in this months Eagle of the Month.
That thing looks plain wicked!...Egg cellent build
Wow, very nice work, love it!
Can't wait to see some full car pics, this thing looks sick dude!
Wow, nice to see another IFS body lift, how did I miss this one?!
It makes me wonder if it's not as hard as I feared... I really do love the way this thing handles, and I'm afraid the solid axle might just make it less... agile.
People are always surprised how well these things corner, and as much as I like to drive up hills and through mud once in awhile, it's going to spend far more time on the road.
Beautiful.
Hoping you are still out there. Would love to see an update.
I havent posted an update in forever!
So a year and a half ago , I pretty much went broke, and I had to take a job in the Bakken oilfields of western North Dakota, 1250 miles away from my southwestern missouri home.
The only vehicle I own that could possibly tow my toolbox is, you guessed it, the eagle!
In march 2014 I stuffed my 2000+ lbs. of HD diesel toolbox and equipment into a uhaul trailer, hung a hitch off the car, and headed north.
The eagle had been a toy and occasional daily driver and now its dragging my livelyhood to the butt end of ND.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140316_161746_zps9rr5z28p.jpg)
I cant think of a better way to travel in the eagle than with $30,000 of tools strapped to the hitch :rotfl: . the car made the trip, no problems, and is my daily driver here when I am at work. It towed just fine, but only got 11mpg doing so. ( I blame the lousy HEI distributor)
I am sure glad I added a block heater, and kept the electric heated intake manifold, It did start all winter for me just fine, even in -40 temps, to the amazement of everyone, myself included!
Ive been working my butt off for a year up here, 24 days on, 10 off for over a year now, and Ive seen some some cool stuff.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140331_195045_zpslmhynpci.jpg)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140331_193258_zpsz1fr6pyp.jpg)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/7613afb4-eece-473c-a3be-2504d0a732c4_zpszyr3qyuf.jpg)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140525_193856_zpsdbkszdoi.jpg)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140525_194305_zpsxmddzhov.jpg)
One of my favorite spots up here is this little lake near White Earth, its in a small valley
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140525_194940_zpsgu0ffpxg.jpg)
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140525_201858_zps8l2mo5at.jpg)
The lake is teeming with these ugly buggers. Northern pike, watch out for the teeth!
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140827_192540_zpss4wsfkzi.jpg)
And look, I even found a parts car out here in nowhere! Its the exact same color and trim options as my car was
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20140517_195525_zpsu3ov59gw.jpg)
[img]http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20150331_190423_zpsuamttkeo.jpg[/img
So thats what Ive been up to lately. Ive got to say, that after working the bugs out, the IFS lift has turned out ok. The tires are too :censored: noisy, though. Ive got a DUI distributor thats ready to replace the cheapo ebay HEI, its been the only sore spot under the hood on this car, everything else has worked out pretty good.
I would like to thank you fellow nesters for all the info and parts support. :occasion14:
Two years later and living with it daily I still love this car!
Nice looking Eagle, good to see it could haul that weight all that way!
Glad you're enjoying it :)
Good to see you're still around. 24 days straight is a tough gig, but having 10 days off in a row is nice. I heard it was really hard and expensive to find housing there. Has the oil prices effected you guys out there, yet? My 86 gets 11-13 towing, also. A lifted Eagle isn't the most aerodynamic and the L6 is the best engine for economy.
The car looks great! Glad to hear it's been treating you good too. One of those wheels and your front skid plate I'm proud to say came from me! :) Did your family move with you or have you been living apart? Hope they are paying you well so you can get home if you are living apart! Still working on a roof rack and lighting setup?
The longest stretch was 37 days back in January, Ill admit it was a bit difficult.
I have a decent setup, Transportation to and from work is provided, plus housing while im here. we share a company van and make the 2500 mile rount trip every month. The provided housing is a big deal because here in Tioga or in nearby Williston, a plain 2 bedroom apt. can cost upwards of $2800 monthly. several of my coworkers are from missouri as well, Ive worked with several of them in the past. Our company is somewhat of a southern refugee camp.
I was standing on the front porch in my skivvies having a smoke one morning, and a ratty, rusted out old dodge went blazing by waving an eight foot dixie flag from the bed. ;D
I worked my butt off becoming a top notch HD diesel engine and electrical technician back home for thirteen years,while slowly going broke. Wages are stagnant in SW Missouri. My income has tripled coming here and I do mostly fleet work. One day ill be overhauling a C-15, and the next busting trailer tires and brakes, or doing field service on all sorts of things in some not great weather. I like the challenge , but I dont get to see my wife and kids nearly enough.
The extra money is nice, but my goal is eventually to move to a place that is both pleasant, and where one can make a living wage as well. ND is not the place to raise my family, but neither is Springfield MO. Ive been looking at coastal Alabama. My whole family loves that part of the gulf. I may look at Alaska too, I plan to ride the ALCAN up there this summer and check it out. That will be exciting.
Prafeston, Ive got all the relays, switches and wiring installed and ready to go for all sorts of cool stuff, but I just didnt get any of the extras done before I had to put her to use. Thanks for the parts BTW.
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn199/cdh4088/IMG_20150331_190423_zpsuamttkeo.jpg)
We fired our Fleet Mechanic out here in Bullfrog, UT. Hint Hint. Really not a great place to raise your kids cause there just aren't a lot of young ones around I think the school here had a little over 20 kids in it...K-12 grade! The people here are great though and the small community atmosphere is nice!
But you can't beat the views and your Eagle would out last you before rust would ever be an issue!
You'd be working on things like this!
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/16319_764972277848_6497041320635794142_n.jpg?oh=673706c1c772496aa8c8c8dce7df9cfa&oe=559A5C25)
My backyard!
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10513492_749209052478_4977123765876397408_n.jpg?oh=6063b235dff43c659df37a91bc009c84&oe=55A6B594)
Makes my working in the airforce on airplanes look boring. Of course...I've been around the world a few times ;)
I'd love to see the parts you added for that lift made into a kit, no doubt they'd sell like crazy to every Eagle owner.
When did you move out to Utah? I thought you were nearby in Missouri. Move for a job? Whats Utah like?
I am trying to get work on an offshore rig. Its not the easiest job to land, but those guys get so much time off. some schedules are 14 on , 21 off.
Then move us to coastal Alabama. I could have enough money to get by AND have a life at the same time.
Yeah, it's been almost exactly a year since we moved out here. Up rooted from my boring job to come have an adventure. We love the desert. It gets hot, but the dry heat isn't nearly as bad as MO!
http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43183.15