Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere. Couldn't find anything with a search.
The door panels are off. Driver's side has a sport mirror with adjuster still in place. Looking to pull the glass in both doors to get to the foam channel and paint the inside of the door.
Top seems solid to me. I ordered my manual 2 days before the store closed :'(.
Haven't done an eagle, but have done a bunch of other vehicles over the years(Most recently a couple of Aleros, Mine & my daughters THOSE are a PITA). Normally you undo the mechanism and get the tracks in the door out of the way as well as the lift mechanism(manual or electric as appropriate) then there is nothing to guide it up into the upper window channel/surround. You then tilt it outward and go straight up, sometimes needing to rotate it forward of aft to get it out of the door...
Here's a link to the Eaglepedia to help you out.
http://www.amceaglenest.com/~iowaeagl/guide/index.php?title=Group_23_Doors_--_Hardware
Thanks to the gents that got that back up! I was lost without it.
Good find rohn, I searched the eaglepedia, but must have been looking in the wrong place.
Also I'm deleting my other post. I just realized both my manuals are like generic for AMC cars from like 70-88. The one thing I found in one of them was for the older cars. I just took a look at the Eagle and the top half of the door definitely doesn't come off.
Roll down (or up) the window until the attaching screws are visible in the inside door openings. If the door is on the car, tape the window to the window frame to hold it in place. If I remember correctly it takes a torx bit to remove the screws. If you're unlucky as I was the "nut" on the other side of the glass will turn with the torx screw and it won't unscrew. In that case take a crescent wrench adjusted about 1/4 inch apart. The "nut" side of the window has a long narrow bit of pinched metal you can get the crescent wrench on. Put the crescent wrench on the outside of the window and pry the window away from the door enough to get the crescent wrench in the door (you'll likely have to remove the window sweep to do this). Then while turning the torx screw attempt to slide the crescent wrench on the narrow bit of pinched metal that is the "nut" on the outside of the window. This is a HUGE pain in the butt. After a lot of swearing and knashing of teeth you should be able to get the crescent wrench on the "nut" and get the Torx screw turned out.
When all torx screws have been removed remove the tape on the window, tilt the leading edge down and pull the rear edge up and out. The rest of the window should follow.
Two people is definitely recommended for this job, if not mandatory, lol.
I did it on a couple of doors with them out of the car. If you are flexible you may get one arm up and under the window through a door opening, that's easier on the floor. That rear screw is a pain.
Well, I got them out. Now the trick is putting them back in... ;D
Dish soap can help get the new window felts and moldings squeezed into place, and help get the window glass back into the new rubber parts. Be sure to grease the tracks the window rollers ride in. Be careful with the glass, its not easily obtained!
Before you reassemble anything, check for cracking where the window frame is attached to the doors. I've had to weld up cracks that develop at the front and the back where the window frame attaches to the door on two SX/4 driver side doors. Years of slammin doors with dried out rubber and the weight of the mirror makes cracks form in those locations, but its easy to stop-drill the cracks and weld them solid again while you have the glass and rubber out. The window frame can flex independent of the door when there are cracks in these locations, and the mirror rattles when the door is closed and vibrates while driving. With any cracks welded up, the mirror won't vibrate as much or seem loose on the body panel any more, and the door will close with more of a solid sound rather than with a rattle. When welding, mask off paint, interior, and keep all glass away from sparks. I had to repaint some of the exterior body panel where the cracks had grown onto the outside, so I had to weld some of the door skin where the cracks had grown. The welds were a series of small tack welds to stitch up the cracks, which I then ground flush with the door skin, then did the touch-up painting with the closest match I could find in Dupli-Color.
What do you mean by "window rollers"? These are manual windows, if that makes a difference.