Can I leave the engine in the car for this? I've never touched a camshaft in my life, so I feel as though it's going to be a big undertaking, but I feel it'll be worth it.
im not thinking so. if it could be done, youd have to remove the rad, grille and maybe bumper to slide it out from behind the timing cover, after you have removed the harmonic balancer. then youll have to remove all the rocker arms, or at least loosen them so that all the pressure is off the cam. then rotate the cam to push all the lifters up in their bores, and slide the cam out. but you also need to replace the lifters cause they wont last long on cam number 2. and obviously dont forget to block off the fuel pump hole on the block cause you wont need it anymore, assuming youre putting a 4.0 cam into a 4.2
oh, and the lifters cant be removed through the head, you have to pull the head to get them out.
Pulling the head off isn't the issue, I just can't pull the engine out.
kajsdf asked the same question in this thread, mudkicker responded by asking if he was any good at cutting and welding:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=37161.0;all
yea, i figured there would be somethin else in the way aside form what i mentioned. i was skeptical of the idea even while typing
I've looked at it a little bit because I'm considering the same thing, and it looks like it MIGHT work, but I'd certainly rely on somebody who has some actual experience with it. I found a website where they changed the camshaft on a 258 in a jeep without pulling the engine or the head, they used a dowel in the oiler hole but had to pull the lifters up somehow while they put the dowel in. I'll have to see if I can find the website.
Quote from: casper on April 09, 2012, 11:57:52 PM
ok, the link with mudkicker talking about cutting/welding just popped up. i understand hes talking about cutting/welding the exhaust manifold for the exhaust on a 4.0 head swap... cam should be fine with rad and grill pull correct??
That could be what he was talking about. The way I've eye-balled it, things should work by pulling the grill and the radiator, and with the head pulled it should go pretty easily. Of course then you still have to make the exhaust work :o
It'd be close, I did it in a ZJ Grand Cherokee with a 4.6L (too much cam for the application), and that was HARD. I'd ONLY rely on someone that has actually done it, not someone who has looked at it a bunch... I might try it IF my stroker goes in and has a cam failure on break in, while knowing that if it doesn't work the mill will need to come out. That is a really long cam(needs to come straight out the from and it is basically the length of the engine from the front face of the block that it needs to come out), it is offset to the right a bit, and the engine does set at a slight angle, so it might be possible...
Hey VAN, that was NOT directed at "... the way I've eyeballed it..." I was typing that as a general comment at the same time you were typing yours... It was directed at my own Eye-balling it and looking at it ALOT as much or more than at anyone else'...
Doc
No worries Doc! My eyesight's not that good anymore so I'll take advice anywhere I can get it. And I hope no is plowing full speed ahead based on my advice on this topic :rotfl:
Was really just talking about the center (idk) radiator brace. otherwise pull it all and cut it off to weld it on later. exaust heck thats all funvand games till you get wed flashed in the eye.