Hi, I have an automatic transmission with lock-up in it. And I am totally over annoyed by the fact that it locks up soo low, and doesn't come out of lockup until downshift. I have heard tell tale that there is a shift kit out there somewhere that will cure this and raise the speed of lockup, just looking for information on this if anyone knows anything about it. Would be greatly appreciated.
The only way I know to raise the lockup rate is to use a different torque converter. In a stock Eagle, this doesn't matter. I have a high stall converter and the difference between a low stall lockup is maybe 80RPMs. I'm not too concerned with this and I don't know anyone else that has reason to be worried about it unless theirs is failing.
My Eagle isn't quite stock anymore, haha. I think I just might be pushing a few more ponies now after the alterations, and the over sized tires(235/75R15) paired with my 3.55 gears leave some room for improvement on the highway rpm's lol.
235s and 3.55 gears are perfect match to an AX15, NV3550, or T5 manual transmission. The gear ratio is too low for an automatic.
At 2500 RPM in the middle of the gear, when there is no planetary effect, you are going 23.94 mph in first, 40.45 mph in second, 58.65 mph in third.
With 3.07 gears you would be 27.68 mph first, 46.77 mph second, 67.82 mph third
With 2.72 gears you would be 31.25 mph first, 52.79 mph second, 76.55 mph third.
There was approximately a 4 mile per gallon of gas difference between my station wagon with 3.07 gears and my other one with 2.72 gears. The 2.72 gears are much more efficient, although it was remarkably sluggish at accelerating. We saw 25 mpg highway consistantly and saw 27 mpg on one trip. Most people report 18 to 20 mpg.
I suggest changing your gear ratio to 3.07 or switching to a manual transmission.
Well I think those calculations were for a 998 without lockup. In my setup I am using a stock 998 with lockup as I had one laying in my barn already and had the 998 non-lockup in the wagon initially. So right now, 2500 RPM actually propels me to about 67mph. And when I did my engine build I used a very well rounded 4.0L cam to give me a wider power range, my rig pulls great from about 1900 RPM up. I do love the takeoff I get with my gearing and have debated finding a donor car with 3.07's, 2.72's would be too low for my liking as I tend to do a lot of towing and highway ramps during rush hour. Right now my Eagle is getting about 18 mpg with a stock 4.0L header and very restricting muffler to keep the :police: at bay. I have been trying desperately to find all the components to do a 4 or 5 speed swap for the past year, but have only found one manual Eagle since then, an SX/4 in the U.P. that was sold before I could get to it.
I don't have a lock up in my Eagle, but I've heard others complain about the same issues with the lock up converter in the past. I did some searching on the net and didn't find any solution to your complaint. I have a Transgo kit in my Eagle and would recommend it to anyone when they have their transmission rebuilt. I can't remember if I have the TF1 or TF2 though. The converter does rely on some hydraulic info from the valve body. I would make sure your throttle valve rod is adjusted properly and then give Transgo a call and see if they have any info for you. They invented the shift kit http://transgo.com/
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Hmm, Transgo only has kits for the 904, nothing for the lockup trannys though. I will have to try searching for a TF999 Kit. If I had a diagram and routing of the hydraulic system for the 998 Lock-up, I could do some calculations and find a way to modify the valve springs and checks to get it where I want it.
727/904/998/999 are all the same kit. Where do you see they aren't for lock up converters? I vaguely remember, the instructions had some special notes when installing the kit with a lock up converter.
You don't need a whole kit. There is 1 spring on the valvebody to change to increase the speed at which it locks up. Search lock up spring kit 727
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/Shift_Kits.htm bottom of the page
#KTF / TC. Fits all 1962 up 727 and 904 transmissions. Cost $24.00
This valve body kit deals with these problems:
* Lockup shudder
* Premature clutch failure
* Premature band failure
* Inadequate lube oil
* Inadequate line pressure
* Converter burn up
* Weak 2nd and 3rd shifts
1.One kit does all 727, 904 through 999's, 1962 to 1995.
2.The Superior KTF-TC kit gives the option of choosing lock-up speed.
3.Delivers full time lube.
4.One kit will do regular, heavy duty and extreme heavy duty applications.
5.It addresses converter problems on all years.
6.An easy to use adjustment tool is supplied with each kit.
7.Case saving information is provided in this package.
A12741CK Spring Kit, A727/9XX Lock-Up Delay (Spring & Plate) $4.24
http://www.wittrans.com/showfilter.aspx?Category=732&Section=79&pagenum=2
Thank you very much, that's exactly what I was looking for. With a little searching, I was able to find that there is a spring in a separate body for the lock-up operation. I was going to simply remove mine, measure spring rate, and get one a couple pounds heavier, but this saves me the time, and I like that it makes it adjustable. As for the transgo kits, it says in red writing in the part description, not for lock-up units.
I put a solenoid on the tube for the lockup in my '83 Cherokee (last full size Cherokee before they became Grand Wagoneers) That was a 999 trans with Mexican 282 motor (that I swapped the seized 4.2L for)
Yes, but reversed. It keeps the pressure from applying till I hit the switch.
I used a fuel shutoff solenoid from a dual fuel (LPG/gas) setup. Wired to a dash button on/off.
Don't have a part number but this one is similar
(http://www.fwmurphy.co.uk/images/SV_solenoid_valve_medres.jpg)
On top of the lockup valve body is an S shaped tube the lockup pressure goes through. First, the valve needs to be where the spinning parts above won't hit it when you put the valvebody back in. I just drilled a small hole in the case for the wire to pass through (with a sleeve over it) and make sure it won't get yanked loose too.
Don't have the internal pics right now. If the 727 I'm putting into my Eagle has a lockup, I'll be doing the same thing.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2705/4117671890_956490df27.jpg)
S shaped tube means it's a lockup.
Awesome 727 build thread I found
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=20391.0
It doesn't have to be that particular brand. You got the idea on the lockup though. When mine was going bad (bad shaking, shifting in/out of lockup) I put a ball bearing in the tube to keep it from locking and got another 6 months before the neck snapped off hauling my trailer.