I was wondering if anyone here has deleted their standard motor mounted fan for a set of electric fans
Yes, I did.
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=36388.msg292619#msg292619
I put an electric fan in my Gremlin. Rarely comes on. Got a thermostatic fan controller from Jegs which starts the fan gradually to avoid a big draw on the electrical system when it starts. I used a slim line fan from a Taurus, which has two speeds, I'm only wired up to the highest speed. I think I posted this in another thread earlier, and someone commented that the Taurus fan would be too big in an Eagle.
taurus fan set should be fine. they fit great in a spirit and i dont see an eagle being any different. but definately the gradual on would be good seeing as they are power hogs :-\ ive personally mocked a set in place in my spirit and saw no fitment issues. just need to figure a solid mount. likely just drill a couple holes (oh no, drilling! :'( LOL) and bolt it in
I tried installing a Taurus fan in my Eagle. The fan motor hit the water pump pulley. I even tried to trim a bit off the shroud to get it to fit closer to the radiator and it still hit. Here is a pic from the net of an install in a Jeep. See how close it is to the pulley? Mine was hitting.
(http://www.inajeep.com/pics/buildup/taurus-fan-3.jpg)
I wound up putting a dual fan from a Chrysler LHS and will be going back with mechanical. Supposedly the fans are 5000 cfm but on warms days when on the highway or large hills it gets really hot. Never had the problem with the mechanical fan. I saw no difference in MPG either.
One of the tricks is to have the temp sensor for the fan in the lower part of the rad so it senses the rad outlet temp, not the inlet temp. Some will fit in the lower hose to avoid the troubles of adding a sensor to the rad.
I did it on the Pacer this summer, so different radiator but I used a set of stock Subaru fans that fit it. There are several brands of slim electric fans. With electric fans a good shroud is really important.
You can use a threaded opening in the aluminum intake manifold, and there are also at least two threaded ports into the water jacket on the driver's side that fit most US threaded temp sensors. The economy method is two temp sensors, stock engines use a 205-215 for the low and a 225-240 for the high. Remember, you don't want it fighting the thermostat which is trying to keep your engine around 195. Use a relay to trigger the fan so you don't burn out the sensor and run the trigger off a wire that is hot at run only, not at start or acc. Run the power straight from the distribution point on the starting solenoid, fusing both separately.
Adjustable ones are better, especially if you have a through-the-radiator mounting. I put one in the intake that is set around 210 (Max for the adjustment) and one in the radiator near the inlet that was adjusted on the road to just come on after idling for about 10 minutes on a very hot day. I've never had a problem cooling all summer.
There are some nice Tarus-specific controllers available, and some gradual controllers for single-speed fans. Pick controls to match the fan you want. Some will stay on for a pre-determined amount of time after your car is shut off too. You also need to address A/C, with some diodes or relays off the clutch feed to bring the fans on.
They should draw less power while moving, or shut off completely and they should move as much or more air at idle. You probably won't notice power improvements at normal speeds and loads. Theoretically, your A/C should run cooler and your car warm up faster. Electric fans are most beneficial at high RPMs and on cold days.
I usually like setting up the electric fan as a back up for the factory one, specially down here in El Paso that some times it takes more then 2 hr lanes to cross the border from Juarez.
Thanks ben....very informative...ill have to check out the subaru fans.
The problem with using the temp sensor on the engine is that the rad can be cold and the fan will still run because the engine temp is warm. That why I suggested using the rad outlet as the trigger, the fan won't run until the outlet if hot.
I plan on buying the fans already installed on an aluminum radiator. These are readily available as a package on the evil bay. CJ7 radiators are identical to our Eagles. The exception to this is that the installation holes are different. Our radiators have the holes already drilled to be installed on a CJ7, but the aluminum radiators do not arrive with holes drilled for our Eagles. Here is a picture that shows an old Eagle radiator in comparison to the new aluminum radiator for a CJ7 I am installing in my SX4. It was easy to drill the correct hole:
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/Sept20110465.jpg)
If you have an Iron Duke four cylinder, the radiator hoses are on opposite sides. The evil bay also has Jeep CJ7 aluminum radiators intended for Chevy small block conversions with the input and outputs on the correct side for that 151 engine.
Here is a picture of the CJ7 radiator installed in my SX4 before I drilled the proper holes up higher. The spacing is correct and the radiator bolts in as is, except that it sticks up too high until you drill the new holes in the right spot:
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/Sept20110462.jpg)
Mines a 258 but I would love to get a more modern aluminum radiator of some type...Mine is beyond gone so I will need to replace it anyway...may as well upgrade...if there is something that will work with out gobs of modifications.