having problems with my eagle not warming up in the mornings. It takes 10 mins before it will idle down, so I turned the key forward and checked the wire going to the choke and I read no voltage. Is there a choke fuse or fuseable link somewhere, or should I just run a new wire to the choke?
There should be a choke fuse in the panel if wired properly.
If not, any 12V source that is hot in the RUN position (ONLY in the RUN position) will work perfect. Don't use an ACC positioned source.
It's weird but when I turned the forward and checked for voltage I had none, so I started it up and checked again and I had strong voltage. It still took about 10 mins for it to kick down. I was told the heat from the manifold is what makes the car idle back down once it gets hot enough. I also noticed the voltage would drop to under 1 volt until I reved the motor then it jumped back up and then kind of bounce around. Is the choke wire tied into the starter some how where it only gets voltage when the car is running? Does this mean there is something wrong with my choke?
I don't believe there is a choke fuse, but there might be a fusible link. But, you should NOT have voltage going to the choke with the key on engine off. The oil pressure switch is what turns on the choke. Once the engine builds oil pressure, it completes the circuit turning on the choke, this is so the choke only turns on when the engine is running. The reason for this is because people would turn the key to on, engine off, leave it there, then in a few minutes the choke would be open, and the car would be harder to start. Plus it helps save the battery.
Try checking it again, see if you have 12 volts when the engine is running.
I would guess either you have low oil pressure (I believe the choke triggers higher then the light) or a bad relay for the manifold heater. The relay is triggered by the choke feed.
I have 12volts while it's running and I have no idea if my oil pressure is low. I will look for the sensor and see if it can be cleaned?
Add a ground to your choke retainer.
If you have 12 volts while running, and your oil pressure switch is good, then you should have enough oil pressure.
the choke retainer? where is that, one of those 3 screws that hold the choke together?
I unplugged the choke and ran a wire straight from the battery to the choke to see what would happen. After a min. or so the choke plate starts to open up, so to me the choke works, but why won't it idle down when it's cold? why does it take about 10 mins if everything is working right?
In the past I have run a wire from the little post on the solenoid nearest the firewall. If key is on its powered.
QuoteI unplugged the choke and ran a wire straight from the battery to the choke to see what would happen. After a min. or so the choke plate starts to open up, so to me the choke works, but why won't it idle down when it's cold? why does it take about 10 mins if everything is working right?
Because you probably need a better + or a better - connection to the choke.
Run a nice short ground tot he choke retainer if you have a single pole choke (+) if you have a dual pole choke (+ and -) then you MUST run a + and a - anyway. I also suggest checking and replaing the + lead to the choke. 12V doesn't meen it is flowing the amperage needed for the choke. Could simply be bad wiring on the + side or not a true ground on the - side.
back in the day I always replaced them with a good old fashioned manual choke
The power doesn't get to the choke unless the motor is running (it goes through the oil switch). Sounds like the choke needs to be adjusted open slightly. I'd also lube the linkage and make sure the vacuum break is working.
NEVER lube choke parts. They will collect dust/gunk and the choke will not operate properly. No lithium grease, no WD, no mouse milk, nothing. The choke needs to operate as dry and clean as possible.
If the choke worked w/ direct voltage, I think the answer is very clear. The + and - need to be addressed. There are many ways to have a proper working choke and eliminate the oil prssure switch. See above reply.
I found and cleaned up the oil switch and check continuity from the switch to the choke and it was good. I was told if the oil switch was going bad it might not be strong enough to power the choke? I will check it again in the morning, since it's the only time the choke doesn't seem to work right. It still took 10 mins for the choke plate to open all the way. I pump the pedal once, the plate closes all the way and it fires right up. Nice smooth high idle, the plate is opened about 1/8 of an inch and I watch the choke plate, but it doesn't move. I keep revving it every minute and around 8 min. the plate will open up and the idle goes down. After another 2 min. the plate is straight open, I rev it one more time and then the plastic fast idle cam rolls over. With a direct wire from the battery to the choke it only took about 2 mins before the plate starts to open. I don't see the plate open up whiles it's running in the morning. Not sure if I should loosen the 3 screws and turn the choke a little lean, or clockwise or not? Will that help, the choke pull off seems right, not sure where to try next other than running the new 12v wire.
Run a ground and a new 12V wire.
Does your choke just ground through the carb?If so, and if you have an ohmmeter, put one probe to where the choke grounds, and one to the negative battery, should have very little resistance, close to 0, if its higher, than a good ground wire like Gronk suggested could help.
I have found that with the choke housing set right the power connector is usually pointing up. If it's further 'forward' than this, your choke may to too 'tight' and therefore taking too long to unwind. .
Choke linkage gets gummed up from engine blowby and needs cleaning for optimal function.
if what your saying is true, then mine is way off. mine is off to the side about 7-8 o' clock.......
You need to set the choke on tension, not position. There are many styles, brands and makes of electric choke caps. Some even have the moded caretr choke which makes the line null.
When sold, the choke butterfly should have just enough tension on it to remain closed and not be "floppy"
You don't want it tight either.
yesterday I checked and cleaned the connectors to the oil switch, and loosend the 3 screws holding the choke together and turned it maybe a 16th of an inch and I heard a click. I tightened it all back up and took it for a drive. The pinging is really bad right now, it's embarrassing to drive around. I have to buy a timing light, I loosened up the 1/2 bolt to the dist. and turned it 1/8 of an inch or so just to try something until I get a timing light. I didn't realize I turned it the wrong way and advanced it, but no big deal I'll fix it later. anyway I got into the eagle this morning and it started like it always does, but this time I could see the choke plate moving and after 2 min. I reved it and it went down, another min I reved it again and the plate was fully open. It only took about 3 mins. to fully open as opposed to the 10 mins. these last 2 weeks, so it may be fixed now I'll have to check it again in the morning. ..