Okay here goes, im new here first eagle etc. I have some automotive experience but nothing with eagles. The eagle I got is an 82, 258 auto and the guy who had it before ran it out of trans fluid several times (it had a leak and apparently it was easier to keep adding fluid than fix the leak) so it needs a rebuild which I plan to do myself, I have begun the process of removing the trans, and am wondering does the T/C come off with the trans or does it stay on? I was unable to figure it out as the repair manual I have is a generic AMC one. any help appreciated
thanks thats what i will do then any recommendations as to what kit to use for rebuild?
In my experience, when the drivetrain has been all in one piece for a very long time and abused for several years, you get a stuck nut or two when disassembling. I had to pull out the transmission and transfer case together with a comealong(Don't do this). From there I had to chisel the stuck nuts off with the sharpest chisel and a heavy mallet. If you're lucky, you can drain the transfer case and unbolt it from the transmission without any hassle. I wouldn't use the same nuts and studs though. I'm replacing the ones on my spare transfer case and overhauling all of it.
For clarification the transmission and transfer case CAN come out all in one combined piece, but it's difficult and dangerous. The biggest problem you're going to have is when you reinsert the transmission. When you have trouble clearing the exhaust flange on the side and the exhaust pipe under the bell housing you'll see what I mean.
k so any words of wisdom for getting the top three bolts out on the bell housing?
A ujoint or wobble joint and a mile of extension. Works everytime.
got it w/ :censored: load of extensions and a wobble and pics of the fun so far http://s1084.photobucket.com/albums/j404/sammuel357/
For me it wasn't so much a problem getting the extension but how they're pieced together. Took me a few minutes to figure out what was wrong. I sat right behind my transmission with the jack snugged underneath the pan for support(don't lift the transmission yet).
From the base of the ratchet I found it easiest to use a 1ft extension, another 1ft, 8in extension, then the 6in wobble and the 9/16 long socket. The 5/8 bolts are the easiest to tighten as long as you have a wrench caught on the other end. I had to do all of this myself. Oh and remember once you get your transmission rebolted, use the jack to raise the transmission in place then TIGHTEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS AGAIN before continuing with everything else! You don't need your transmission/converter/clutch/whatever flying loose down the road. I checked my housing bolts after I had the crossmember in place and had to tear it off just to get the bolts tight again. From what I notice the 9/16 bolts don't seem to be loose but the 5/8 bolts were a bit of trouble.
thanks Daemonforce I got it out now to tackle my first rebuild and then getting it back in I will remember the tip for tightening, thanks.
I never had to have another set of hands. However I have air tools. Never had to move tranny up or down to get those bolts.
Quote from: sammuel on October 03, 2011, 10:54:33 PM
thanks Daemonforce I got it out now to tackle my first rebuild and then getting it back in I will remember the tip for tightening, thanks.
What a job. God save us all. (;ﾟДﾟ)
Quote from: mudkicker715 on October 03, 2011, 10:59:11 PM
I never had to have another set of hands. However I have air tools. Never had to move tranny up or down to get those bolts.
I have air tools but I never use them unless I'm clearing rust. The real issue here is moderation. I'm very technical in my build approach but I hit a bit of a snag with tools. My ratchets are small and my impact wrenches are a completely unacceptable alternative because they're too big and powerful. The key point I'm making isn't to move the transmission up or down to get to the bolts but to make sure the bolts are truly in place and aren't going to vibrate loose on their own or something equally stupid. It's enough work doing this once and it's too easy to find yourself doing it again.
Just pulled mine again i always take the transfer case off first way easier and again use wobble extensions and ball joint sockets go to harbor freight they are cheap. i do it alone so taking the two apart is easier to handle. and when you put it back in good luck doing it with the transfer case attached i found it impossible. but with the right tools the job can be easy and always use air tools they save your arms knuckles and shoulders haha good luck
Just did one this weekend myself. I wish I would have taken a picture up the tunnel, but your engine ought to rest against the firewall and let you see up to the top three bolts easily enough. You do want extensions, though. Both solid and wobble, u-joints are too flexible. A head lamp is darn handy too.
Of course, this helps:
(http://bmadore.squarespace.com/storage/post_images/TransmissionSwap009sm.JPG)
I was able, loosening up the exhaust a bit, just to slide it out as is. The exhaust is the only thing really in the way. It took me a while, about 12 hours labor to do the swap, as well as tidy up a few odds-and-ends.
Or if a lift is unavailable than a simple hydraulic table lift is more than adequate.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc55/mudkicker715/eagle86/misc/misc/Y29udGVudDovL21lZGlhL2V4dGVybmFsL2l.jpg)
I use obstruction wrenches for the hidden bolts. They have boomerany cruves. I also invested in a set of open end ratcheting Gear Wrenches (they aren't super strong, but sure beat that 1/8 turn, remove wrench and move it to turn 1/8 turn again)