Dear Doug & Steve;
I want to start my own string here at the Nest, where I can talk Eagle talk about things I see here that either are completely wrong, or need much clearer words, cause somethings are not clear or wrong!
Take my son, and a couple of other members, looking for a shifter for the three bolt pattern SR-4
Transmission. Everybody makes it sounds like you can't get a shifter, and give bad reasons why they break.
Borg-Warner SR4 Transmission
The Borg Warner SR4 transmission was a standard shift, four-speed transmission found in 1980 to 1981 Jeep CJ models. It is a light-duty transmission found behind the 151 Iron Duke I4 and the AMC 258 I6.
This transmission is popularly replaced with the SM420 and SM465 transmissions, since they share a similar bell-housing bolt pattern and compact installations.
Features
The SR4 is a top loaded, top shifting transmission with the shifter being located in the rear section of the transmission. The SR4 is fully synchronized in the first through fourth gears. All gears are helically cut.
Identification
The SR4 transmission case is 9-1/4" long in addition to its 6" shifter / tail-housing assembly; for a 15-1/4" total length. It features a cast aluminum top cover that is retained by eleven bolts and a main case of cast aluminum.
The Jeep SR4 has a 23 spline output shaft for connecting to the transfer case input shaft. The transmission has a 7-1/2" input shaft (stick-out length). AMC 258 I6 engine versions have a 1-1/8" x 10 splines. The GM 151 I4 engine version has a 1" x 14 spline input shaft.
Typical Borg Warner casting numbers found on the SR4 are 13-32 for excellent Jeeps and 13-40 for cylinder Jeeps.
RF D9ZR-7222-AA
13-32-097-90
13-40-097-902
The shifter cane is curved, instead of having an angular bend like the T176. The SR4 is the predecessor to the T4 & T5, so they look similar and are occasionally confused.
Transfer Case Compatibility
The Jeep SR4 was factory-married to the Jeep Dana Spicer Model 300 transfer case.
Because this transmission is lighter-duty, we do not make adapter assemblies to join it to other transfer cases.
Bell-housing Adaptability
AMC Jeep
As the SR4 was married to the Jeep engines mentioned above, it is OEM compatible with them.
Now here is the real deal, so listen up folks!
There going to kick me off the system, so my next lesson will be to show you how easy it is to fix these. Why they break, and I will show you how will never have one of these break again.
Last How to match Fords shifters or Jeeps every model will fit any Eagle and work including Concord. Its a casting trick, four bolts and your back on the road.
Have to go Sorry but just had to put this myth to rest.
amcconcord
Looking forward to the rest of the story facts, Ken.
;DSTORY ???
FACTS :rotfl:
NOTHING BUT! ;D
Reply corrected.
I'm listening..... ;D Haven't broke mine yet, but I have heard the stories ;).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/svoman2300/Smilies/smileyvault-popcorn.gif)
That story looks slightly familiar to me (cut and paste?):
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/sr4.htm
You are correct, the first entry was and is a direct cut and paste! Thanks for the link, because it supplies a good picture of the transmission in question. What I wanted for the first entry was the basics for my next postings. How not to break the shifter, what is the main reason for breaking it, so that's a to watch for part! Then a simple fix, that I will ask Doug and Steve to put into the EagleNest Store, for a few bucks any shifter can be repaired, and then I want to explain how we can use many shifters for fast repairs, from many sources! Being in a hospital and hooked up to many things, makes it hard for timely post, sorry but I was "clinically dead" so I move slower than you live people!
I am writting it in Word, cause they charge me here for on-line time by meg's. So in a few days I will post my notes to the string, which will be a cut and paste from word on my machine. My thought by reading many other posts over the years is many people here do not know much about this transmission type I saw things like three bolts or is it like a T4 or T5 transmission and so on, So I cut and pasted at the top or beginning of the subject the best I could find on-line to describe the transmission so those not in the know, have a good reference point to start with, that was the intended point.
Hope that clears the last posters mind, but thanks for the link cause, there is a picture there also.
amcconcord-2
Forget the transmissio stuff, I'm glad you're alive and conscious!!
Ken, the only "transmission related" thing I care about is the shift you've done from "P" to "1".
And I wish you to shift up again in "D" as soon as possible ;)
Yes, we don't know each other, but I exchanged some messages here with Paula when you were, let's say, idling in Neutral and I'm really happy to read from you !
Enough 'bout transmissions... ;D
Good to hear from Ken again. If he can steer us in the right direction with repair parts, then that is good.
"The Borg Warner SR4 transmission was a standard shift, four-speed transmission found in 1980 to 1981 Jeep CJ models. It is a light-duty transmission found behind the 151 Iron Duke I4 and the AMC 258 I6. "
It was also used behind 304s in the 1979 AMCs.
The Shank or bottom fork of the shifter can be replaced, welded, below the ring on the shifter,the Shifter is [cast]
the Fork or bottom is [Forged] it slips in like a socket and ratchet type of fitting, I have at home not here some 10 bottom parts machined in my stash of stuff, I would most likely keep two and send the other eight to Doug or Steve to stock in the Eagles Nest Store along with special bushings made of Teflon not cheap plastic to put on the cam below the shifter, This notice is not the long form I am working on in word to give the better detail which will post soon,
but to give a taste to what will be in the long form, some facts, the shifter bottom always breaks when the clutch does not fully disengage from the transmission, be aware that the line from the clutch master to slave over years breaks down the inner part of the line with the fluid, so when you depress the clutch you disengage but when you let up to shift out the fluid passes very slow back to the master which causes what is called [gearing snag to engine] which results in the breaking of the inner drivers side fork part to snap off or break, because of the spacing on the inner cam, every time, no exceptions! Always replace the line between master and slave if you have any shifter problems or with clutch, I do not have the correct fluid to use here, but the TSM or factory fluid used is WRONG and caused the break down on the inner part of the line causing the clutch not to seat correctly, which is the main reason for breakage!
amcconcord-2
Good to see you've been hangin around "2" :) . So the factory put the wrong fluid in? I used DOT3 in mine (I can call it mine I guess, lol), I went by what the resevoir recomended. Seems ok, but a little finicky at times.