i have developed a loud humming coming from the passenger front wheel bearing i think. dose anyone have any simple suggestions for a broke guy to get around buying or renting special tool to press on and off im in omaha ne and she is my daily driver if anyone can help please let me know
mike r
First off let's visually diagnoseit. Lift it up and see if she wiggles front to back or topto bottom. Or all around.
Careful of course since its in the air.
I had a HUMMMM from the front bearings. Jacked it up and one was TIGHT and one was a little loose. I had to replace them. Plus 3 ball joints. Was a bit pricey.
I just did my front wheel bearing it fits into hub assembly with shouldered bearing. I got my parts from autozone the bearings were 32.99 each and the carrier to hub seal was 10.99 plus I took it to auto store to get pressed it at price of 32.00. My total rebuild was $108.97.
WvEagle
Hello, Pigonawing. Iwill try and help with this.First we need the year and exact model, milage on the car and history of the car if this is possible, and how long have you had the car. What type of driving do you do? How many miles per week, what type of roads do you operate the car on
What speed(s) does the noise happen? Are there any current handling problems?
After we answer some of these questions, we can start by doing the following.
1. we need specs on run out on the bearing,you should find this in an after market, or original amc manual if it is availible. You will also need specs on front end parts and acceptable wear for the them.
2. You need to jack up the car and check the entire front end for wear.
3. IMPORTANT ! ALWAYS CHECK THE TORQUE SPECS FOR THE LUG NUTS ! I cant tell you how important that is. If the wheel is over torqued or unevenly torqued it will damage the bearing, and can damage the rotor ( warp ).
4. Assuming that it is the bearing, you may be able to rent the tools you need from a parts store. If you are not comfortable pressing the bearing yourself a machine shop or local garage may be the best answer.
5. When you reassemble everthing be sure to use the specs for everthing, AND PLEASE USE A TORQUE WRENCH.
6. When you are done take the car on the same roads that you normaly do, and at the normal speeds that you drive. Check for any problems.
Let me know if this helps.
Thanks, Benamcfan. email
[email protected] .
it use to start at about 45 now i can hear it at 25 too. i got the car in september it has had this noise about the whole time its just gotten louder. when you turn the wheel slightly right it stops for a second. its a daily driver that i like to do a little ripping around with i replaced both front axles thinking that would do it but no luck so this is all thats left. and when you sit on the passenger side you can feel the floor board vibrate its a 1982 sx4 modle with 57,000 original miles money has become an issue it sat a long time so i have slowly replaced many things on it you can feel the drag on the car from this issue you let off the gas and it is like something is slowing the car without hitting the brakes. the parts store told me there is a inner and outter bearing not sure what to do there and now if i need to do both i guess it would be the best idea but not sure what to do and i need to find a good machine shop to press these on cause i dont wanna damage the parts.
Sure sounds like the hub needs to be rebuilt. Yes, both bearings, the seal and O-Ring.
so if i find a used junker with a good hub could i just swap the whole thing
Yes.
Are there more than 1 year i could get them from used
The 1980 hubs are ball bearing equipped, maybe a few 81's as well. The rest are roller bearing equipped. It is said the very early ones are not rebuildable but I think they have been using the roller bearing type bearings.
well that is the story of my life trying to save few $ ends up costing me double the wife love this too haha it has put me in the dog house more than once
i had to rebuild the front wheelbearings on eagle eyes (a 80) and the bearings were cone bearings. so unless some previous owner switched hubs which i highly doubt it as the bolts had never been removed.
I don't mean to hi-jack but I hear there is a how to on rebuilding the hubs, yes? The RF on Hobbes was humming when I bought it. Being an older Rambler guy, I drove it until the bearing fragged out a couple weeks ago. Just like a rambler, fix one thing and break another... ;) I have new half shaft, outer bearing and seal from NAPA. Now I understand there is an inner bearing too? Or is that part of the half shaft?
I was sorely disappointed to find this ole 4WD Rambler has metric bolts every where too... ::)
edit - Thanks to IowaEagle!
http://www.amceaglesden.com/~iowaeagl/guide/index.php?title=Front_Wheel_Bearings
Two identical bearings in each hub.
so maybe the NAPA guy did not see "two each" ;D thanks again!
HI Pigonawing did you get your problem fixed I did not see if you did .I would like to know.If its not to much trouble I had the same sound later.............Don
TWO SETS OF 26 BEARINGS BRAND TIMKEN OR EQUIVALENT AND 3557,3942 SEALS WILL BE REQUIRED TO DO THIS JOB, AT LEAST ONE SET OF THE 26. AND THE O RING SEAL.
OK, now I am learning about E size sockets for those dadgum 6 point star head bolts.
I will get mine apart some day, I mean it! ::)
HI Fulsizjeep I haven't heard that for years .My grandfather down in missIssippi use to say that all the time He would say dadgumet that brings back alot of mems good luck with the stars
i have a similar issue 86 wagon the is quite a bit of rust on all componentes so i'm starting with pulling brakes is the a compatable replacement wheel hub or should i remove and rebuild?
Hey, this hub thing is getting popular, lately !
Too bad there's no complete assemblies available anymore. Rebuilding is the way to go.
I had a two weeks delay in my rebuilding process, but hopefully tomorrow I'll put it all together again, and the Eagle will be on the road again !
A BIG BIG WARNING for anyone removing their front hubs:
1) REMOVE the half-shaft first, or you'll have no way to properly engage the lower carrier bolt with the torx key.
2) USE THE PROPER TOOL to remove the 3 torx bolts that hold the carrier to the steering knuckle.
Ask me how I know...