[img]Here it is my 3rd eagle. I used to have an 82 kammback and a 84 wagon limited, but I was never a fan of the sedan cuz of the vinyl roof. I couldn't pass this one up seeing how rare and how clean it was. I have found no real rust anywhere, still has the manual, and the original bill of sales. All original so far, 122,000 miles, automatic, new headliner, interior is mint, cruise control, AC and the 258. Not sure why but I don't have the aluminum valve cover on it. Low miles and no rust are the only good things about this sedan. Now for the bad, roof is shot, front seats are shot, doors are loose, don't know if the 4x4 works, bad valve cover leaks, exhaust is shot from the manifold on back, gas gauge bounces, missing molding inside the front doors where the windows roll into, cruise don't work, radio is shot, clear coat is coming off the hood, needs a grill, side mirrors are shot, fender has a good size dent, looks like a leak around the windshield and some rust under the vinyl top. Almost made it home from a 3 hr. drive with no problems, until about 15 minutes from my house the car just started to shake violently and I had to slow down and pull over. Bad shaking, pulling to the right, squeaking and grinding types of sounds from the front. I barley made it home, so instead of doing some fun updates to the eagle I now have to drop more money than expected into the mysterious front end problem. Eagle still looks good though........ I want to send Pics. just not sure how yet?
I use Photobucket...Once you upload your pics to PB, you will see your individual pics with link codes at the bottom of every pic...I always use the bottom link ( copy and paste method) to post pics on the forums...try that and see if it works for you. ;)
is there any other way, I'm cheap and don't want to spend the money.......
photobucket is free as long as you don't put too many photos on it (I have over 100 and still havn't needed to upgrade)
beat me to the punch Bill...yea its free...I don't like to have a lot of pics floating in cyber space so after I post I usually delete files from photobucket to free up space and have never had an issue
I'll try again, but they wanted $2.99 from me........just go to photobucket.com?
Quote from: Memphis Eagle on November 22, 2010, 09:35:10 AM
beat me to the punch Bill...yea its free...I don't like to have a lot of pics floating in cyber space so after I post I usually delete files from photobucket to free up space and have never had an issue
I can do alot while sitting at home waiting for the battary to charge in the eagle ..... turns out I have/had a bad wire to the alternator
Quote from: brownbear on November 22, 2010, 09:50:07 AM
I'll try again, but they wanted $2.99 from me........just go to photobucket.com?
yep, photobucket.com ...... if that fails to work I know that myspace will host photos for ya
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eaglepass.jpg)(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleframe.jpg)(http://[img%20width=775%20height=581]http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleframe.jpg)http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownb(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleframe.jpg)ear87/eagleframe.jpg[/IMG](http://i1090.photobucket.com[img%20width=775%20height=581]http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleframe.jpg)/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleframe.jpg[/IMG]
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eaglerear.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eaglefront11.jpg)
ya did good. so there's 1 egg for great looking underbody, and 1 for the uber cool mad maxx exhaust :P
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eaglefront.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleroof-1.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eaglefloorpan.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagledoglegs.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagledog.jpg)
[IMG]http://i1090.photobu[IMG]http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleleak.jpg[/
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleleaf.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleframe.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eagleleak.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/motor.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeaglemotor001.jpg)
You might want to rip what remains of that vinyl roof off, as it is with the holes its trapping moisture and that'll make the roof rust much faster. Be prepared for some nasty surprises underneath if you do remove it, though.
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/lotsofleaks.jpg)
I just got done scraping a large amount of the roof off, then it started to pour. I see a lot of glue so far, looks like the windshield was leaking at one point, still have more to remove. whats the best way to get the glue off?
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theleak.jpg) Lots of work ahead of me...........
I don't see a year specified in your description (unless I somehow missed it), but if that's an '87 then "rare" is something of an understatement. Only 454 sedans produced in their final year.
I must admit I'm not a sedan man either... I mean, I don't hate them, but they're probably my least favorite of the five body styles.
Despite that, I did just pick up two of them recently ('81 and '86) and know the whereabouts of two others ('80 and '81) which could be had pretty cheaply. ;D
Take a look at Metalbird's sedan for some inspiration. Looks like yours is even the same color.
Quote from: brownbear on November 22, 2010, 10:44:30 AM
I just got done scraping a large amount of the roof off, then it started to pour. I see a lot of glue so far, looks like the windshield was leaking at one point, still have more to remove. whats the best way to get the glue off?
You could try a paint stripper or some other kind of solvent, but if it takes the glue off it'll take the paint off as well and I imagine you don't want to do that at this point. I havent had any luck with any kind of solvent, I use a sharp paint scraper, the one I fouind works best has a head that is sort of triangular shaped with one side flat, one slightly curved and one concave, the head is about an inch or so on each side. Two hands on the scraper and a hard pull, or sometimes start away from the glue a bit and jerk it along the surface until it hits the glue and pulls some of it off. I use a grinder to keep the edge sharp and avoid having to buy a new scraper every day or two. Something that might work which I haven't tried is a heat gun to soften the glue before you run the scraper over it.
Be careful where the windshield pillars and rear window pillars meet the roof, those panels are joined with lead and a sharp steel straper can gouge it.
This is the rare 1987 sedan......
Oh, yes, brownbear, another thing I use to remove glue, undercoating, and so on is a wood chisel with about a 3/4 inch blade. Lay it at a shallow angle to the metal next to the stuff you want to remove and tap it with a hammer. That works really well for particularly thick/stubborn coatings and doesn't hurt the wrists like long bouts with hand scrapers can.
thanks priya i will give all your ideas a try and hope i can salvage it the best i can. i'm going to have paint it no matter what....
After I removed my vinyl I used a stripper but as stated off comes the paint. But it took it off easily.
Try the decal remover used to remove vinyl pinstrip and graphics. It is a wheel you use on your air grinders or dremel. It is rubber like pencil eraser, it rubs off the vinyl glue and all without damage to paint. Use with a heat gun somtimes too.
Quote from: joelmgrandfield on November 22, 2010, 03:08:30 PM
Try the decal remover used to remove vinyl pinstrip and graphics. It is a wheel you use on your air grinders or dremel. It is rubber like pencil eraser, it rubs off the vinyl glue and all without damage to paint. Use with a heat gun somtimes too.
That didn't work.
Jacked up the eagle and wiggled the wheel and I found a badly worn out pitman arm, so I ordered and will pick up and put on both the pitman and idler arms and see if that helps. Very clean underneath except for the quarts of oil that leaked all over for years. You can tell it's been leaking for a while and bad. I ordered a new valve cover today as well. It still has the original tie rods and ball joints and they were still tight and looked clean, just can't grease them. Only thing that was loose was the pitman arm. I also got a new steering damper, it won't do much for the loose steering, but it might help some. It's going to need a new steering gear box and I'm not sure how to do one of those. I did notice the boot was missing on the drivers cv shaft, should I replace just the boot or should I replace the whole shaft?
If there is no grease left on the bearings and they appear contaminated with road dirt, grime, road kill and salt, then I would replace the half shaft. Some have life time warranties.
Another way that might work to remove the adhesive is a wire wheel on a drill motor.
To remove the glue I would strongly recommend you try Goo Gone before you actually attack it with anything abrasive. You may be able to save your roof paint or at least prevent scoring the metal which would be more work later during paint prep. It won't hurt the paint but will neutralize the glue. Goo Gone is made by Magic American Products and should be readily available just about everywhere. Spray or wipe it on, and leave it for a day or more and then wipe. It may take a little more elbow grease but wont hurt the paint.
what we use at the shop is acrosol (how ever it is spelled) and adhesive remover that we get from our paint supplier. I removes glue GREAT and doesn't so any damage to paint. I would call around to automotive paint shops (not body shops) and see what they have to offer
Much nicer then my 87 sedan. It's probably an earlier 87 before they made the aluminum switch.
I too prefer the wagons, but my was cheap and suddenly there right after my girlfriend (now wife) wrecked my Subaru. So it was in the right place with the right price.
Good luck with the vinyl. If I get mine repainted I'm definitively removing the vinyl top too, but mine is still in pretty good condition.
I actually really like the sedan. that or a 2 door coupe is what I was hoping to end up with. That's a pretty decent looking one. typical rot under the driver's feet, but all in all, it looks pretty good. Nice find. Paint looks pretty good.
Yeah, I don't like the rot that they succumb to the vinyl roof. Mostly around those little 'opera' windows in the back.
not sure what rot you are taliking about it looks clean to me. I haven't been all over the bottom yet, but from what I have seen it's very clean........I may be pussing out, but I think I want to sell this eagle. Too much work, no place to work on it at..........
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Other%20pics/eaglefloorpan-1.png)
That looks like a small hole (rot) by the driver's side foot well. My mistake if it's not, but it looks like it could be rot.
rear end sat a little low, so I installed some shackles. When measured from the bottom of the bumper it was 16 3/4" after intstall it went up to 19". Pretty qucik install.(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/beforeshackles.jpg)
shackles.....(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/newshackles.jpg)
After with over 2 inches more(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/aftershackles.jpg)
New dual exhaust from the manifold on back. Very expensive and all custom bent and welded....(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/dual.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/newcat.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/reardual.jpg)
Why are you selling it?
I just seen your ad on the C-List.
Those shackles remind me of the '70s and early '80s when jacked rear ends were all the automotive rage. 8)
The exhaust tips are dangerously close to the plastic bumper guards. I've seen these guards get melted by hot exhaust, hopefully that doesn't happen here.
I placed the ad cuz ohio needs an echeck done to it for me to put it into my name. I was unaware of that when I bought it and I don't think it will pass right now. I wanted an eagle to drive in the winter to save my truck, but what I didn't want was a project car and that's what this is becoming. More work than I have experience for. It's a nice, it just needs more time than I thought. I plan on cutting back the pipes and adding some chrome tips later.....
Had a bit of a deat(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/sidemirrorfront.jpg)h wobble with my side mirrors, so I had to replace them. If interested advanceauto sells mirrors for $16 each.
they line right up......(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/sidemirrors001.jpg)
I have mirrors similar to those on the 83 wagon and they vibrate. Do these seem solid?
Also those are more rectangular than mine, which I see as an improvement.
I looked at Advance here and don't remember seeing those. Do you have a part number?
compared to the death wobble of my other mirror these are not bad at all. #k- source is the4 name and the #901. nice mirrors, one fits both sides, you just have to loosen a screw and spin the mirror. They are lighter than the originals, but they are bigger and nicer.......
Quote from: El Matador on November 22, 2010, 11:28:38 AM
Take a look at Metalbird's sedan for some inspiration. Looks like yours is even the same color.
HA! Just caught this. Thanks, I appreciate the compliment!
I must be one of the odd balls among the odd balls here because I think the 4-Door Sedan is the best ... it is like your typical 80's little old ladies grocery getter sedan with Attitude! The stubbed-butt, stocky, high stance build of the 4-door sedan is the least suspecting model of being something beastly. Just my opinion.
I think you have a great car there!
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/olddifferential.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/freshdifferential.jpg) Still plugging away on the sedan, lots of work. This is the differential cover that someone just used silicone, no gasket. It took me hrs. to get it off and clean all the silicone off. The fluid was very old and black and was in need of a change. I have also changed the front and back brakes along with new KYB shocks all around. Replaced the drivers side half shaft too.
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/windshieldrot.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/frontofroof.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/cleanerroof.jpg)Days of removing vinyl and scraping glue off to find three bad rust spots forcing me to move the eagle into a garage. Not looking forward to this kind of a job.......
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/otherwindowrot.jpg) found what looks like some kind of bondo from the factory. all kinds of spots like this on the roof
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/littlewindowrot.jpg) If anyone has had these issues and know of ways to fix this rust, or have pics of their finished product, let me know I can use all the help I can get.
That be where the rust starts on those sedans. My Concord has the same problem, I am sure. I forget if it was someone here or at the AMC Heritage Forum who made that repair. Thinking the latter site -- on a Concord, I think.
I did that repair once. I just treated it like any other rust repair
yeah, from what I've seen, that's a pretty common rot area for those 'opera' windows.
But actually, even on 4 doors I've seen, that's not that bad - I've seen several 4 doors that had like no rot anywhere else (rockers, around the leafspring, floor, or even the frame behind the front spring) and those always seem to rot.
Yes, I have seen the same. Strange, isn't it?
The areas around the opera windows don't look that bad although once you start cutting away the rusty areas it may be worse than it appears. Assuming the indented part immediately around the window is solid that's not that hard a repair because all the surfaces are basically flat. The easiest way to do it is to cut a piece of metal 1/2 inch or so larger than the hole and lap weld it into place. That'll take a moderate amount of body fill to smooth out the lines but if its welded in without warpage the change in body lines shouldn't very noticeable if at all. If you want something closer to the original body lines you can butt weld in a repair but that's a good deal more difficult. You need a piece that exactly fits the hole you've cut out. What I've done to do that is take paper (tape a number together if need be), lay out over the hole and tape into place. Then trace your finger around the edges of the hole with enough pressure to crease the paper on the edges of the hole. Then remove the paper and cut the pattern out along the indentation you made with your finger. I found I usually need to go over the indentations with a pen first to make it easier to do. Then you need strips of metal about 2" wide to go around the circumference of the hole. Drill 1/4 inch holes 1/2" or so from the edge of the hole about 2 or 3 inches apart (support the back side with a 2X4 to keep from bending the sheet metal. Then weld in the metal strips with half of the width behind the original sheet metal and half the width exposed in the hole. Next drill 1/4 inch holes 1/2" from the edge of your repair panel and test fit it. You'll likely have to grind the edges of the repair panel slightly to get it to fit flush with the original sheet metal. Once you've got it fitting flush put it in place and hold there with welding magnets and start tack weld it into place with 4 or so welds equally spaced around the edges. If all is straight start welding the 1/4 inch holes shut, one on one side of the repair and the next on the other side of the repair to avoid heat build up. If you get any warpage on a given weld use a hammer and dolly to tap back into place before proceding or if absolutely necessary grind out that weld and redo it. Once you've got all the 1/4 inch holes filled start welding the join together. Do an inch and a half or so on one side, move to the other side of the repair and do another inch and a half or so and keep alternating sides until you've got the whole thing filled in. Again, if you get any warpage or the edges of the original metal and patch panel start to spread use a hammer and dolly to tap them back into place before proceding or if absolutely necessary grind out part of the weld if its too far spread to tap back into place.
I've found that its next to impossible to weld in a large flat area without getting warpage but I suppose if you're more patient than me and can wait 2 or 3 minutes for every inch and 1/2 you weld you could avoid it. If there is warpage you may not end up with a whole lot less body fill from a butt weld repair then you would a lap weld repair so the lap weld might be the better choice. Another possibility is to cut out the rusty metal, prepare your patch panel and hire a mobile welder to weld it in for you, or take the car to a body shop and ask them to weld in your patch for you. If all they're doing is the welding it probably shouldn't cost very much.
I can't really tell from your picture but there appears to be rust holes on the roof just above the windshield. That's going to be a more difficult repair. The windshiel and headlinger will have to come out. Depending on how far the rust has spread you may be able to patch it with a piece of sheet metal, or if the channel that supports the windshield is rusted through you'd be better off to seek a parts car with a solid roof and cut out the area you need and weld that in. The area above the windshield is a compound curve which is diffiicult to form from a flat piece of sheet metal although the curves there are gradual so maybe it wouldn't be too bad. One way to form a compound curve is to take your flat patch panel, place it against an anvil with the outside surface down and hammer lightly and repeatedly all over the inside surface with a curved hammer head. I found an ordinary carpenter's hammer has just enough curve in it for this job. The surface will gradually take on a compound curve which you check repeatedly against the roof to see if you've got enough curve. This will leave a dimpled texture in the metal and the whole area will need a layer of body fill to smooth out which it would probably anyway due to the welding join.
Your way to far in to quit now no matter how bad it may be. Looks like it will be a real nice car completed so may the force be with you. A good egg for all your hard work and patience.
Yeah, I'll second that - Keep plugging away at that one, when you get that one done up, she's gonna look hot! Eggs to you for pushing forward and saving an eagle.
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/rear.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/front.jpg) New wheels, got the whole set for $100. the size is 215x75x15
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/aftercarb.jpg) Days later, new valve cover on, hopefully with no leaks and a 2150 carb mounted......
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/oildrainplug.jpg) I don't know how long it's been since this car had an oil change, but it took me and a breaker bar to take off the drain plug. Does this plug look normal, does it need some kind of an o ring, or is the washer enough?
Looks normal to me.
I don't know about your drain plug, but I flung a Good Egg your way. That buggy
is really looking good under the hood.
it might be a good idea to check the threads on the oil pan if it was torqued that much. I am really surprised you got it off at all
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/wheels001.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/wheels002.jpg) My new wheels before and after.......what do you all think?
any pics of them on the car?
Quote from: thereverendbill on November 23, 2010, 12:10:04 AM
what we use at the shop is acrosol (how ever it is spelled) and adhesive remover that we get from our paint supplier. I removes glue GREAT and doesn't so any damage to paint. I would call around to automotive paint shops (not body shops) and see what they have to offer
rev, I'm curious about the Acrysol + Adhesive remover. I'm about to attack an old 'once was vinyl' roof and wondered if you mixed or was there a staged application like first the Acrysol then the adhesive remover? Any tips on adhesive remover brands?
Cheers!!
Quote from: ynwa on January 02, 2011, 10:42:02 PM
Quote from: thereverendbill on November 23, 2010, 12:10:04 AM
what we use at the shop is acrosol (how ever it is spelled) and adhesive remover that we get from our paint supplier. I removes glue GREAT and doesn't so any damage to paint. I would call around to automotive paint shops (not body shops) and see what they have to offer
rev, I'm curious about the Acrysol + Adhesive remover. I'm about to attack an old 'once was vinyl' roof and wondered if you mixed or was there a staged application like first the Acrysol then the adhesive remover? Any tips on adhesive remover brands?
Cheers!!
I wouldn't mix the 2, adhesive remover is a bit more expensive than acrysol but I know for a fact that it will only take the adhesive off and not damage paint (I use it every day at work). I have never tried acrysol to remove adhesive so i can't say much about it
Quote from: brownbear on November 27, 2010, 08:08:47 PM
Had a bit of a deat(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/sidemirrorfront.jpg)h wobble with my side mirrors, so I had to replace them. If interested advanceauto sells mirrors for $16 each.
AHA!! i knew someone here had the same mirrors as i did! now to go check if i can still find these. or atleast get replacement glass.. my glass is broke.
That cars comin together nicely brownbear!! Aside from the usual roof rot those sedans always have the car looks really nice. I gave up on my 86 sedan rescently. Its just way too far gone, even the floors and trunk area are rotted. Its like everytime I started to work on it i would find more serious rust areas. It is going to be my official parts car for the next eagle I get.
sorry to hear about your loss, and I know about rust. This was a very clean eagle, until you start to poke around at things and then it turns to rust. I'm still finishing up the rust areas on mine. I'm not a type of person that quits, I just find a way and the energy to try and fix it. 3 months now and it's still not on the road, sometimes I just want to walk away from it. When it's too cold out, I stay in the house and try to calm down and work on a game plan for the next day above freezing. It is way too much work, and all I can do is hope that it all pays off..........
Im sure it will pay off. The nice thing about yours is its so rare...My 86 was a dime a dozen so to speak so there was no huge incetive to put that much time or money into it...Even though all model years are basically identical youll always have that 1 of 454 badge of honor on yours..no normal person would care but to us eagle people its a big deal!! Best of luck on your project!!
The '86 sedan wasn't exactly mass produced either, with only 1274 having been built. I have one, and unfortunately it may also become a parts car due to roof and B pillar damage. The rockers aren't faring too well either.
I hear ya there. I have stripped off what useable parts there were on the 86...and believe me it did not yeild much..everything was rusted, wore out missing or broke...Im selling the shell to a guy up the road that wants it to make a rock crawler of it...what ever good luck to him the car is like swiss cheese.
Its too bad sedans had that issue cuz I always liked em. Ive seen several that aside from the rust were perfect cars but had to be put to pasture or stripped just because there there was so much rot.
after months of sitting in the garage, I took advantage of the 80 degree day and pushed out the eagle to blow off the dust.........(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/drivers.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eageltoughstance.jpg)
The black door handles look good. I bet we will be seeing more of those. Did you get all of the exterior rust repairs "nailed"?
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/rear-1.jpg)
I grinded and cut out all the rust I could find, then I treated it with POR 15, filled it in and bondoed over all of that. next is primer then paint, possibly this week?(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/passside.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/passrear.jpg)
I need to put my Concord in an envelope and send it to you. ::)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/frontend.jpg)
trust me, I am no body guy.......this is just 3 months of frustrating work I hope to never do again. (http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/driversroof.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theroof.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/reardriver.jpg)
Quote from: IowaEagle on April 10, 2011, 04:07:18 PM
I need to put my Concord in an envelope and send it to you. ::)
ship her out here to us, we'll get her looking sharp ;D
I would trust driving that one out to you. If I had any $$ and sense, I would.
that is coming together really well. Keep up the awesome work.
I didn't have to do much body work to my eagle, but when I got all the stuff needed to get her running (remove windshield, clean and sandblast rust, putty, prime and paint, then new windshield).
when I got her to pass safety, and I could take her out for a legal drive, Man! it made months and months of work all worthwhile.
Just keep at it.
Quote from: IowaEagle on April 10, 2011, 04:19:39 PM
I would trust driving that one out to you. If I had any $$ and sense, I would.
body work is alot cheaper than you think. Alot of people i talk to think that a paintjob is in the thousands of dollars range in reality it just depends on the color (some pigments are more expensive than others) and the type of paint that is used. paint is probly the most expensive part of bodywork as i like to use old car hoods for any metal patch jobs (they are cheap, plentyful, and the same thickness as body sheet metal) ;D
That would be a good source of cheap sheet metal. Of course from something besides an AMC product, unless it was beyond repair. My painting skills leave something to be desired. My SX/4 is a testament to that. :banghead:
Quote from: thereverendbill on April 10, 2011, 06:12:32 PM
body work is alot cheaper than you think. Alot of people i talk to think that a paintjob is in the thousands of dollars range in reality it just depends on the color (some pigments are more expensive than others) and the type of paint that is used. paint is probly the most expensive part of bodywork as i like to use old car hoods for any metal patch jobs (they are cheap, plentyful, and the same thickness as body sheet metal) ;D
Then I'm driving my car out where you live, and get it painted there...
it's really expensive to get a car painted here - even going with a normal or 'cheap' color. Two years ago, I wanted my 1999 Grand Am painted (Which I might add needs NO bodywork, just some small paint chips and scuffs. It would need taping, sanding and painting with a common GM color), and I was quoted $7200 was the cheapest price I could get.
Nobody here (that I've heard of) in Calgary, would quote you anything less the Thousands of dollars for a paint job. It's a freaking rip-off here.
I remember hearing that 99 percent of Canada has gone to the water borne paints, they are ALOT more expensive to use because of all of the prep and equipment you need. i like to use a single stage paint outside of work because it is pretty much a spray, sand out the dirt, and buff process to a good looking paint job
That's possible... I really don't know much about that industry. Very little actually.
I just know it's stupid expensive to get a car painted here. Way too much actually. And it's getting worse.
I would prefer just having older type paint and it looking good - I don't need an ultra high gloss job that looks like it's two feet deep. I just want a paint job that will hold up to a few to several years. Heck, I'd even tape the thing to get the costs to come down.... but no such thing here.
Maybe I should head south to get some paint put on Flicker. I'll do all the bodywork here, give it a coat with Rim paint, then head somewhere to get a decent paint job. I could drive to Florida, get it painted there, and head back - It'd still be cheaper.
good new then .... I'm in central Pennsylvania ;D so you could have a pitstop on your way to flordia
I just finished putting the rest of the dash together, and it's all good now.
I don't really trust her to drive her that far yet, but once I go over the drivetrain, and she's all good, yup, I'll be heading down for some of get together (Probably for An Eagle's Meet) and yeah, I'll bring her down for painting.
I can't afford it up here. Awesome idea Bill.
Sorry to hijack this topic...
Quote from: Whuntmore on April 10, 2011, 07:54:25 PM
That's possible... I really don't know much about that industry. Very little actually.
I just know it's stupid expensive to get a car painted here. Way too much actually. And it's getting worse.
I would prefer just having older type paint and it looking good - I don't need an ultra high gloss job that looks like it's two feet deep. I just want a paint job that will hold up to a few to several years. Heck, I'd even tape the thing to get the costs to come down.... but no such thing here.
Maybe I should head south to get some paint put on Flicker. I'll do all the bodywork here, give it a coat with Rim paint, then head somewhere to get a decent paint job. I could drive to Florida, get it painted there, and head back - It'd still be cheaper.
There's always the Rust-Oleum roll on. I don't have the link ready, but there if you look for Charger and Tremluclad (sp) in a search you should come across it. I've tried it on panels, and you have to thin it much more than I tried my first time, but the results are good, and can be done without special tools or practice.
@benM,
I stopped trusting tremclad rust paint after several failings. Also about 3 months ago I had a chat with a bodyman and he said not to use those typical rust paints, use the paint that's for your car rims.
it comes in limited colors, but it doesn't need primer, it sticks to paint, bare metal, bodywork and you can paint over it without any prepping.
anyone have any pics or know of anybody with a black 4 door sedan? Thinking about painting it all black, feel free to give me opinions...........
I've got an all black sedan. It was originally dark blue, but the PO painted it black and put a black vinyl top on it. It gets warm in the summer, but it's nice in the winter. I have all the chrome bits though.
I like the look, but I think it needs to have a little bit of accent on the car, a few chrome bits or pinstripes.
(http://gallery.me.com/cpt_tylor/100070/Pacer%20077/web.jpg)
(http://gallery.me.com/cpt_tylor/100070/Pacer%20075/web.jpg)
thanks for the pic, but I think I am going to stick with the garnet red. I have already painted the trim and stuff black months ago, and I think everything black might not look as good.
There is a video on youtube of a black limited sedan...its a georgeous sedan....he has a walkaround video as well as a driving video..."1980 Eagle around the car view"
Here it is, after 6 long, cold and painful months, the Eagle is finally done! All I have to do now is get it running again. I'm sending a before shot as well.........(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/eaglefront11.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone015.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone014.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone013.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone012.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone011.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone010.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone009.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone008.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone007.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone006.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone003.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone004.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone005.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone002.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone001.jpg)
(http://i1090.photobucket.com/albums/i371/brownbear87/theeagleisdone016.jpg) I will try and get some better shots when the sun goes down..........
You not being a fan of the sedan, are making the rest of us fans with your awesome paint work! Eggs to you!
Looks very nice. The black out treatment works well. I like, very much, how you did the hood.
very well done. I really dig the darker red ;D
that is one awsome looking eagle.
WOW!!!!! That looks AMAZING!!!!!!!!!
GREAT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!! :occasion14:
Quote from: brownbear on May 08, 2011, 02:08:42 PM
Here it is, after 6 long, cold and painful months, the Eagle is finally done!
Way to go Brownbear, that's impressive! I'm starting on year 4 on mine, lol. Wish I could restore half as fast as some of the people here.
Holy Crap!!!! Bro, that is wicked!!! Dammmm.
I love the black part of the hood fading into the red. Wow! That is like Night and Day man. Did you do that work yourself? did you take it to a pro painter? I can't get over the work.
Eggs to you for excellent bodywork and paint.
I did all the work myself, the painting took me about a month. It's not too bad of a job, considering it was all done with duplicolor spray paint (rattle can). I didn't have the money to take it anywhere, nor did I have the equipment to do it any other way. They had a sale here, 99cents a can for dark garnet red and clear coat. Around 20 coats of paint and clear with lots of wetsanding followed by buffing with 3 different types and compound grits, followed by a coat of carnuba wax. It's far from show, but it's better than I could have asked for with a spray can. You need a lot of time, patience and muscle to achieve this, but it works if you don't have a lot of money to spend..........
Regardless of how you did it, it looks great. And you're gonna have to update your avatar...
Quote from: brownbear on May 09, 2011, 05:17:11 PM
I did all the work myself, the painting took me about a month. It's not too bad of a job, considering it was all done with duplicolor spray paint (rattle can).
I bet your "trigger finger" has muscles on it now! That is a LOT of spray cans!
why can't I change my avatar pic?
YOu have convinced me that it is possible to paint my powerbulge hood sitting in my storage closet. Well done, eggs to you!
Quote from: brownbear on May 09, 2011, 07:25:53 PM
why can't I change my avatar pic?
How are you trying to do the change. It should be an easy upload from your computer to the avatar box in your profile. You may need to make your picture smaller so it will load.
Wow rattle cans? That's an impressive feat...! Very nice!!! :occasion14:
I usually make my avatars 120x120 pixels. Most sites that's the max size. Then upload it, or just link to it.
i have tried photobucket and off a folder like i did the first time and i still can't get it to work...
Try uploading one from your computer.
Holy crap!! :o Spray paint? That looks like it came out very well, nice shine!
You're gonna have to change the title to "I AM A Fan of the Sedan". I know I am now!
i will be more of a fan as soon as I get it running, and can enjoy it. then maybe I will sell it..........
Eggs for sticking with it!! That looks better than alot of professional jobs Ive seen. Its hard to believe thats all done with a rattle can!!! Very awesome work!!!
Agree'd.I've painted cars before with spray cans and didnt look as nice as yours. Are you going to try to find another body style now?,seeing this in the Eagles for sale thread.
Brownbear has listed this in the 'FOR SALE' Section.
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=35715.0
i love the sedan i have a 86 with no rust on it it is blue and light blue 98.345 miles on it :) :eaglebig: :amc:
I really love what you did to this car. I saw this thread months ago before I even got an Eagle and I guess I never commented. The faded black power bulge was a great touch and I love the black door handles and the vinyl delete. Sharp looking Sedan...almost makes me want one! :)
thanks prafeston, mine is for sale if really interested........