In an ongoing effort to make the Eagle better I have ordered the following:
Autolite 2100 with 1.08 Venturi, (since rebuilt)
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/2100c.jpg)
Trans-dapt 2086
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/trd-2086.jpg)
Fram G-3596
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/frm-g3596_w.jpg)
MSD 3 Coil
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/MSD8223.JPG)
Cu579 Radiator
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/cu579.jpg)
AC Delco 16-806G Wires
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/16-806G.jpg)
Valve Cover Bolts
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/249240171_o.jpg)
Bosch Platinum 4203
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/4203.jpg)
Ford Cap Adapter
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/capadpt.jpg)
Ford Cap, FC600x
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/Cap.jpg)
Ford Rotor FR600x
(http://)
Disc Hardware
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/DiscHdwr.jpg)
Brum Hardware
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/Drumhdwr.jpg)
Brake Shoes
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/shoe.jpg)
EGR Plate and Gasket
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/EGR.JPG)
Front Pads
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/mkd203.jpg)
Mr. Gasket 1487 9" Air Cleaner
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/mrg1487.jpg)
Oil Pan Gasket
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/os34308r.jpg)
Radiator Flush Kit
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/Peak.jpg)
Wheel Cylinder Repair Kits
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/wheel.jpg)
Temperature Sensor
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/wt398.jpg)
Stant Thermostat
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/Tstat.jpg?attredirects=0)
Thermostat Housing Gasket
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/Tstatgasket.jpg?attredirects=0)
GM ICM
(http://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/ICM.jpg)
While I am at it, is there anything else?
Those sure do look familiar. How about e-brake cables. I saw no front end parts at all on your list.
Not yet, have to keep money for bills too... Those things suck. We should ban bills all together...
Make sure you get a good HEI module, many of the aftermarket one are pure junk (I've seen them bad right out of the box). I would suggest either a new GM one, or maybe a used Wells one (made in USA) if you can find one. I haven't tried any of the performance modules yet (accel, msd, dui, etc) but one of those may be an option too.
Quote from: shaggimo on July 23, 2010, 08:01:55 AM
Make sure you get a good HEI module, many of the aftermarket one are pure junk (I've seen them bad right out of the box). I would suggest either a new GM one, or maybe a used Wells one (made in USA) if you can find one. I haven't tried any of the performance modules yet (accel, msd, dui, etc) but one of those may be an option too.
Got one made in the USA!
Hey umm. I don't have a pcv port on this carb. Would a Trans-Dapt 2266 work instead of the 2086? While I'm at it... How do you remove the ball from the linkage? I don't really want to break it.
Never mind. Just blind. Probably need new glasses.
Been a week.
Completed stuff:
MSD Coil
No more cooling problems
Ford Cap Adapter
Ford Rotor
Ford Cap
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Vacuum Cleaned
EGR Delete... The holes on the one posted are about an 1/8" off.
T-Stat
T-Stat Gasket
TO DO (in order):
Valve Cover gasket (figured out why it was leaking... no gasket, just some silicone)---NEED GASKET ASAP
Complete MC2100 Conversion (just got to do the linkage, it started to rain)
Temperature Sensor
GM ICM
Pressure wash
Front Brakes
Rear Brakes
Oil pan gasket (if it isn't just the super leaky valve cover, hence the pressure wash)
gotta love that silicone. i believe that there should be a back round check required for it and if your are the select few that have used it in place of a head gasket then you should not be able to ever be caught holding the stuff (i have bought at least half a dozen cars with silicone head gaskets) none of those engines ever ran and where scraped
Must have been post lobotomy purchases.
Update:
Complete:
In addition to the previous post
Valve Cover gasket (That was a PITA), Was there an easier way to yank the cover off? It kept getting stuck on stuff.
Complete MC2100 Conversion
To Do:
Temperature Sensor
GM ICM
Set the Idle (Currently really high, did get it to go down some)
O2 Sensor plug
Pressure wash
Front Brakes
Rear Brakes
Get rid of the rotted pulse air tubes
Oil pan gasket (if it isn't just the super leaky valve cover, hence the pressure wash)
VC's are just not fun. All kinds of stuff has to be moved, when possible, to accommodate that task.
Biggest problems were AC lines and Coolant lines. Before I started I did a smog/pulse air delete
Yeah, those hoses are in the way. I lucked out in that my AC hose seems longer than most of the others I have seen so I was able to keep it moved out of the way. I disconnected the offending heater hose.
My ac hose and the back bolt were my biggest headaches - at least that I didn't cause.
Have you tried to drill out a broken tap? The piece was still in the head when the engine was swapped.
I drilled out a broken vc bolt. The one in the front though. It was simple.
For the GM module, for the tfi/hei hybrid, I am mounting to a heat sink, as recommended. I am also installing the fan that was on the heat sink to ensure that the module is always cool. The fan power will be run to a switched power source, such as the terminal on the starter solenoid that runs the coil. Unless someone knows of a better power source?
I noticed that when I put the valve cover on, I broke it. Oh well, I was looking for an excuse to get an aluminum one anyway. Details can be seen <a href="http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-890/Jeep-Parts-Aluminum-258/Detail"> HERE</a>. They also have an ebay store. Many of the items, like the valve cover can be had for less. Mine was $74.65 shipped.
I ordered this one: (https://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/ValveCover.jpg)
I quit. Valve cover fits and came with its own bolts.
1'st Problem: I put the valve cover mostly on. Need to remove choke from carburetor, now I cant get the bottom screw.
2nd Problem: All the bolt holes line up. Bought new bolts that thread in. Caps of new bolts also fit in some holes.-- 1/4" washers for 1/4" bolts
3rd Problem: Washers don't fit around bolts.
4th Problem. Driver Side holes are about 1/10" of an inch off... Cannot secure valve Cover
5th Problem. I have adult size hands. Can not access rear bolt.
6th Problem I don't have any C4
Proper extensionsand a swivel its easy for king kongs handstoget that rear bolt. Otherwise pull the wipermotor
Its not the wiper motor thats in the way. Its the firewall
Anybody want to come over and finish it?
One guy drilled a 1/2" hole in the firewall, then plugged it with a rubber plug.
isn't this problem only on 81 and up? Guess I should not say only since that's most of them.
'81 - '86 and maybe a few early '87's.
I've been doing other stuff (not Eagle related). How do you secure the driver side of the valve cover? There are two holes in the cover and two holes in the head, but they don't line up well enough. The plastic cover was held in by the large nuts using the studs in the head. Those nuts do not touch this cover.
There should be holes. Doesyour cover match the proper year gasket to your car.just wondering/making sure you got the right cover. i did one myself had no problems with a clifford6=8
yes the gasket matches the holes.
I wonder if the holes in the cover were not drilled correctly?
I agree with possible mis-drilling of holes in the cover. How bad is the misalignment? Could you file the holes in the cover out of round enough to get the bolts in?
The 1/4" bolts go in now. Yet another problem. They are too small. Tried 5/16" too big. This is the most petty problem I have ever had working on cars in the 8yrs I've been working on my own stuff. Anyone got a .50 cal I can borrow for a while?
Might have been ever so helpful to have drilled and tapped the heads
Next thought is I think hex/allen bolts work 100% better
Using them. Got to pull the cover and drill and tap to 5/16". But on this day off. I don't have the cash to get what I need.
I don't believe you will have to drill, just carefully run the tap down (that's all I needed to do), be careful it doesn't break, becuse that will really p*** you off (yeah I know from experience, lol).
I had some year of concord no tap required. An 86 also no tap.
Some years yes. Maybe that is required
If your car went thru the factory recall for valve covers and if the dealer went by the book they would have installed helicoils on the driver's side. Who knows, they could even be metric.
Hole got messed up. Got some hold downs made that utilized the studs. Removed AC, rerouted heater hoses, replaced line from fuel pump to carb, TFI/HEI in progress, "extra" wire removal, sensors that were once monitored by computer being removed. Catalytic converter to be removed tomorrow, as well as the rest of the old pulse air stuff down there.
Update:
Got the alternator situated, with a double groove pulley and a 17400 belt.
Need to attach the ground wires for the TFI/HEI.
Why are there so many wires? Got to finish that, I'm up to the firewall.
Need to set the timing and adjust the MC 2100 still. Probably should put a charge on the battery first.
Need to remove the A/C line that goes into the firewall.
Need to remove the Receiver/Drier and condenser.
20101030 1625
The Good
- The Eagle Runs
- Redid what I had done of the TFi/HEI hybrid. Bad wiring somewhere.
- Replaced sparkplugs again. AP985 Gap at .045
- Didn't need to set timing. Checked it and it was good.
- No more ECM
- Tested the alternator since its running by disconnecting battery +. It kept running; ergo, the pulley idea and belt works.
The BAD
- The Valve cover leaks still
- Still need to fab a throttle return bracket.
- Have many wires to get rid of.
- Need to remove the rest of the Air conditoning stuff.
- The ignition condensor broke (the wire came off of it).
- Need to set idle speed, it sounds high.
- Excess smoke from exhaust
Questions:
- Can I use the stock valve cover gasket to replace the one that came with this <a href="http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-890/Jeep-Parts-Aluminum-258/Detail"> one?</a>
- What's the best way to remove the harness that went to the ECM
- Is there anything that will not function properly without it (other than fuel delivery, choke, or ignition)?
- What is the likelyhood of the excess smoke be caused from it sitting for the 2/12-3 months?
Yes the stock gasket, Rubber or Cork is the same.
I have a spare stock cork in the trunk. The one that came with the vc was 2x thicker.
Mine was thicker too. FelPro used to offer a thicker cork one. I don't know if they still do.
I'll try the one in the trunk first. Its easy to pull the cover off now... There is nothing routed on top of it any more.
I figured I'd get the fuel and timing right before I do another vc gasket. Well I had fire twice. I am not talking about spark. I got that yesterday. The carb caught fire twice. For some reason, I had to put the gas into the carb manually? I am wondering if the fuel pump still works. Guess I will pull the outlet line and get somebody to crank it and see if anything comes out. If no, I can also eliminate line issues too if I run the inlet hose from my gas can. Anybody have any other suggestions?
Pump works. Found a leak in the pump in the carburetor. The hole is stripped.
Got a Chilton 14300 today from the bay. 9.15 shipped. Arrived today!
Some people scorn them, but we have found ours helpful.
We've found errors, but there has been more good than bad, in my limited experience.
Yeah, I don't use any repair book as a Bible, just as a guide. I figure with the book at home and access to All-Data at work I should be good. All-Data has its problems too. Look for a fuel filter on a 2010 E250. It will not tell you where it is (it's in the tank, first year for this, they are usually on the uderside driver side).
Gas tank fixed today.
The To Do List keeps expanding. Every time I get ahead, more stuff comes up.
Current To Do:
Valve Cover gasket again
Install the cable choke
Find the reason dash lights illuminate when brake is depressed
Remove the A/C line to the firewall
Remove the A/C drier
I have also decided to keep the A/C condenser in place and use it as a transmission cooler.
can you use an ac cooler as a transmission cooler? this is the first time I have ever heard of such a thing. I just opted for the stand alone cooler from my local autozone for the total of 25 bucks and some change (and it always shows up in pictures)
From what I have read on other non-eagle related forums yes. It needs to be cleaned and dry first.
Never cleaned it on my fs bronc c6 trans. Just plumbed it in. Not that running a solvent through it and than compressed air is that hard. But it worked awesome as a stand alone cooler
The cable driven choke will not work with my Autolite 2100, with an underhood manual choke, without modification. The tang on the carburetor choke assembly is too big to go into the cable choke catch. Oh, and "good" news... Ever loose a bolt? Well I have... I apparantly lost a valve cover bolt (I replaced them) when I changed to an aluminum valve cover. I found it tonight, it was inside, by the rear rod. It is getting very windy out, so I did not complete the job yet.
Getting some toys from work tomorrow (Free Stuff)... Hehe Siren.... I opted not to take the wig wags... Maybe 1 or 2 bright dome lights? Anybody need anything from a 2003 P71, or E250, or E350. P71's are Taxi's The E250's and E350 are wheel chair vans and passenger vans.
I want a whole P71 ;D
The owner goes to auctions and picks up a few at a time. They cant cost that much if he buys them. He has a tendency to cut corners with maintenence so...
The valve cover was done yesterday. Pulled the carburetor off today and got the idle cam working. reinstalled the carb. the carb has gas. the plugs are getting spark. the firing order is right. the timing is close, as it ran where it is now. the flipping thing wont start. the engine turns, fire comes out the carburetor. it acts like it is started as long as the starter is engaged, but as soon as i let off the key it dies. as we remember, i did pull some wires out, did I pull one i wasn't supposed to? It has a HEI/TFI and a Autolite 2100 and no computer. suggestions welcome. its getting cold outside.
Dissy off 180 turn
The dizzy should be nearly right. i have never removed it. but i'll pull the cap off and double check it out tomorrow night.
Make sure choke is closing all the way and choke pulloff is working correctly. Check for vaccum leaks.
My particular carb never had a choke pull off. (https://sites.google.com/site/natesamceagle/images/2100a.jpg). It has been rebuilt since the picture... This is a carb that was from the late 60's. It is an autolite 2100.
i took a look at alldata at work today, it has better diagrams. I think I may have cut a red wire from the ignition switch. The red wire is the run wire. like I said it "runs" while being cranked, but instantly dies as soon as I stop cranking. So, I will have a look tonight to see if that is the case.
Nope, not that one... But a yellow one and a messed up gray one to the regulator on the fender. So with that knowledge, I will get my light back that I loaned out, and solder tomorrow.
The original Eagle wiring to the ignition system was through a (I believe) a 5-ohm resistor wire. The starter solenoid bypasses the resistor wire and sends battery voltage straight to the ignition. My resistor wire failed early on...I replaced it with an ignition resistor from a 1955 Ford and wired it straight from the ignition wire coming from the ignition switch. Your description of the problem (it starts when the starter is engaged and quits when you let go of the key) fits in with ignition resistor wire failure. If it tries to start with the starter engaged the dizzy is not out 180 degrees.
Simple to test for, run a jumper wire from the battery to the + side of the coil, then start it. If this simple wire makes it run, then you got a wire sut out of your ignition, just replace it. I'm scared of wires, but I keep a jumper wire around with two alligator clips, just for this sort of thing.
hmmmm, if it gets "fire" in the carb when your trying to start it, I would think a intake valve is open when it fires in the cylinder?? and or too much gas is residing in the intake?? If everything is correct I can't see getting a spark to ignite a fire in the carb if the valves are opening and closing as they should be. Jusy my opinion..........I have allways had to"prime" my wagon if it sits for more than 3-4 weeks , but never had a backfire/carb fire going on.
A flat camshaft or being out of time will cause backfiring thru the carb.
It runs. Replaces the starter solenoid, and found a loose wire on it (the bottom one). Now need to set the timing and idle.. I wonder if I can borrow a light from someone... I don't have the $40 for one. I have a dwell meter but have no clue where the timing light ended up. Maybe one of those wierd thing you lose when you move 1260 miles in a 86 toyota mr2 and no truck...
wow, you moved in an MR2 your lucky you remembered yourself ;D man, those cars are small
I know. I had a 10" kicker CVR in an enclosure in the front trunk, and my dog sitting on blankets and my pillow in the passenger seat.
Thermostat housing gasket changed again today. Who knows? Maybe I will get the timing and idle set tomorrow.
I picked up a actron CP7527 timing light for $45 at Advance Auto in between pick ups.
When I dropped the timing light off at my house, I noticed a leak... Smells like antifreeze. I thought I heard a crack when I was putting the thermostat housing back on the other day, but I didn't see one.. I am guessing there is a hairline fracture there. Advance Auto can order me one for like $12, So I will have to stop there.
Yep, those housings sure like cracking.
Update: sadly nothing to report except the housing was replaced. I have had 1 day off since I got my license back in mid November. I put a request in and was denied. Plan on going back to alabama in 6 weeks and leaving my mother the running eagle (If she ever decides to renew her license that expired 1.5 years ago).
If she does not, the car will be for sale. I don't want it to go to somebody that doesn't really care, but it may end up neglected
The Eagle will be moving to mineralwells wv, with my sister who is need of a car. I am moving to Gordon, Al
Thanks for the update Nate. Is your sister a member so we can lend her a hand if she needs one?
I don't think she has internet access at the moment. She is the only one working and is pregnant.