kiyreagle is on a new journey after being rescued by regalwizard and brought to our home.
you can read about the previous parts of the story here:
<a href="http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=22127.0>the rescue</a>
<a href="http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23539.0>coming home</a>
this thread will be about our efforts to restore kiyreagle and we welcome ideas and suggestions.
in friendship,
prad
the clutch
this is a big issue (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23494.msg224576#msg224576) because we can't put kiyreagle into gear. the pushrod is missing some components and isn't moving the throwout lever far enough.
here is a pic of the clutch mechanism:
(http://towardsfreedom.com/images/ke-pws.gif)
and as you can see the pivot, washer, seal need to be there to extend the reach of the pushrod. they don't exist at present and despite numerous calls to various places, it seems unlikely we'll ever get them.
therefore, we must create our own attachment.
yesterday, i talked with a customer at one of the autoparts store who seemed very knowledgeable and said that pretty well anything will work - we don't need the typical parts. what he said was confirmed by a mechanic at a napa store. both suggested making up something (a homemade pivot) to fit over the pushrod with a rounded end to go into the throwout lever's receptacle (you can sort of see it in the pic). they both said you don't need the rubber seal, but you should grease the contact point with the throwout lever. neither seemed in the least bit concerned about the contact point wearing on either item.
any thoughts or recommendations on this idea?
any suggestions as to what type of metal to use to devise the homemade pivot?
The picture doesn't show for me.
Quote from: jim on December 16, 2009, 10:45:39 PM
The picture doesn't show for me.
sorry jim, i missed typed the url.
it is showing now.
thx for the heads up.
Just a guess, but the "pivot" part was probably made out of nylon plastic. That way it wasn't necessary to grease it.
Take a look at this pic - http://home.comcast.net/~gosupes/clutch_slave.jpg (http://home.comcast.net/~gosupes/clutch_slave.jpg)
Its a Jeep CJ-7 part, probably pretty readily available. Yup, partsmike has it - http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=200&rn=23&action=show_detail (http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=200&rn=23&action=show_detail)
that's a great pic txjeeptx! many thx!
i'm surprised it's plastic though, but obviously it does the job!
i would have thought that it would wear out, but i guess some plastics are very durable.
i'll see if we can get hold of something like that locally and try it.
Quote from: pradtf on December 16, 2009, 10:30:25 PM
this thread will be about our efforts to restore kiyreagle and we welcome ideas and suggestions.
As it often times takes quite a while til one gets around to bodywork I'd suggest taking some rust paint and covering all the areas where surface rust is exposed. That way you prevent further deterioration until you get around to restoring the body. Use a scraper and remove any blisters or peeling woodgrain and then put 2 or 3 coats on. Sometimes if there's a difficult to reach area or its behind some difficult to remove trim I use oil to allow it to seep in behind but of course that has to be thoroughly cleaned off afterwards prior to paint prep.
Quote from: priya on December 17, 2009, 02:20:35 PM
As it often times takes quite a while til one gets around to bodywork I'd suggest taking some rust paint and covering all the areas where surface rust is exposed.
good idea priya!
there is peeling rust coating under the car with some signs of surface rust. we were thinking of using rustmort under there, but i hadn't thought of protecting the rest of the body till your post.
thx mudkicker for the point regarding polyureathane too!
I use Rust-mort myself. Its says on the bottle it is not intended for use as a final coating. I found that by itself it'll protect against rust for 2 or 3 months of outdoor exposure. On other forums I've heard a lot of people talk about a product called POR-15 (Paint Over Rust), some seem to think it works well for surfaces not exposed to sunlight. What I've done on the undersides of my car that have surface rust is to scrape off any loose undercoating, run a wire brush over the area, apply rust mort and let dry overnight, wipe off the surface with water and then quickly dry thoroughly, and then apply a rubberized undercoating. Don't know how well that's going to work out, I'll see after I've had the car on the road for a while.
Quote from: priya on December 17, 2009, 04:14:16 PM
Don't know how well that's going to work out, I'll see after I've had the car on the road for a while.
ya i'd like to know about this. we've been fine with rust mort on top of our van for three years now (despite what it says on the bottle), but that could be because we don't have any severe weather out here and we've kept it covered with plastic. underneath, i can't say because we only did it this summer. we don't have much salt on the roads at all and we drive very little, but i like your idea of the rubber coating. what is the brand of the coating you are using?
I use the stuff Canadian Tire sells...there are two of them one is about half the price of the other. The more expensive one is more of a rubberized spray and the cheaper one is more of a ashphalty/petro sort of thing. I slather the more vulnerable underside parts of all my vehicles with the cheaper stuff at the end of each summer in prep for winter. Both come as an aerosol so application is easy.
using a long nut, a fitting bolt 8.8mm in diameter and a hemisphere-like rubber washer we were able to extend the pushrod 'reach' sufficiently to be able to put the transmission into gear. it was still difficult, so may be we need to get more of an extension, but at least we know it works!
we were able to back out all the way to the bottom of the driveway and then come back to roost.
when we try to go into any of the forward gears, it is awkward but can generally be done with some persistence. there is no grinding though a very slight humming while it seems to be searching for a way to get in.
to go into reverse, can be more awkward and there is some grinding then, though once i've even slipped it right in without trouble.
if it doesn't work after several tries, i've turned the engine off, then put it into gear and then turn it back on holding the clutch. we wonder if the throwout lever is going back far enough, but if it were not so, then i would think we'd be 'rabbit hop' starting as soon as i turn the key.
could the problems be related to just a sticky transmission - after all, the car hasn't been driven for more than a decade?
Make sure your transfer case is fully engaged in either two or four wheel drive. Make sure to chock the wheels while checking.
http://www.amceaglenest.com/~iowaeagl/guide/index.php?title=How_To_Manually_Shift_the_Transfer_Case
I also have a quick question....Did you remove the rear driveshaft before you towed it home?
Quote from: Smitch on December 18, 2009, 05:53:56 AM
Did you remove the rear driveshaft before you towed it home?
Oh, man I didn't even think about how it was towed. Towing with front wheels up and rears on the ground with 4wd engaged(or was it a non-select-drive, bein an '81?) with the rear driveshaft in place would have taken a lot of life out of the viscous coupler in the transfer case!
The transmission being difficult to shift could be somewhat due to sitting for many years - no lubricating oil splashed up on the shifting rail mechanism, possibly some spot rust on rails and shafts from condensation inside the case. The T-5 that was in a parts car was difficult to shift at first(car not running), but became less sticky with some repeated moving of the gearshift in and out of the same gear, thus only moving the gear and shift rail, not punishing the synchros too much, like shifting through all gears sequentially, repetatively, would do.
Yup, when I towed my "rescue Eagle" down to Jack's place on a tow dolly, I removed the rear driveshaft.
i assumed that the tow truck person knew what he was doing, but did confirm that he was using a flatbed because that's what some of the others said you should do with 4wd. so i assume that there is no issue with the rear driveshaft since the entire car was on the tow truck.
txjeptx, we have no stickiness when the car is not running. it is only when it is running that we have the problem of putting it into gear. we will try the exercise you suggested anyway today to see if it will help.
the fact that we can put it into gear and start the car with the clutch down - and no 'jumping', suggests to me that the throwout lever is moving far enough. am i correct in this assumption?
if so, then the stickiness could likely be due to the transmission not being used for so long and will hopefully loosen up given some time ... unless you see some other problem here.
Quote from: pradtf on December 17, 2009, 05:15:59 PM
i like your idea of the rubber coating. what is the brand of the coating you are using?
It's Proform European Texture Rubberized Gravlguard. I believe my husband got it from Chase autobody supplies.
I am going to say no. Your throw out lever is not traveling the full distance. The humming you hear is probably the syncro's being press against while still under a load.
I had a T15 in my 73 Cj5 that did the same thing.
See if you can get a bit more throw.
we noticed that it was much easier to put into gear today, but we also took dsrt4's advice anyway and extended the pushrod. the shifting was really quite smooth and clicked in precisely. we were able to go from 1st to 4th with no problems or even funny sounds! we could downshift with ease too!
the ride was a bit rough, but i think it was the tires. we're getting a different set tomorrow!
kiyreagle has started to stretch those wings!
can you post a pic of your pushrod extender, I need one too. But for $1.09 its cheaper to buy one even with shipping, although I'd love to see what you came up with.
Quote from: mojobean on December 19, 2009, 12:10:09 AM
can you post a pic of your pushrod extender, I need one too. But for $1.09 its cheaper to buy one even with shipping, although I'd love to see what you came up with.
i like the $1.09 price assuming it will fit - i emailed mike yesterday, but haven't heard back.
meantime here is the pic (not of the actual pieces that are in there now, but what we started with):
(http://towardsfreedom.com/images/ke-pwspic.jpg)
the long nut on the right has a diameter of 8.8mm which is just perfect for the pushrod. we chopped it a bit so it wouldn't hit the tab on the pushrod which holds the spring.
the bolt in the middle was chopped so it would screw right up to the nut, but still allow the pushrod to enter it to about 0.5cm. the head of the bolt was also chopped a bit so it was easier to put in (you want the fit to be tight, but it's pretty hard to push the throwout lever to make room and the pushrod can only go back so far).
the washer fits the throwout lever nicely and is pressed there by the pushrod with nut-bolt attachments of course, but also with the spring that connects the throwout lever and the pushrod.
this was our first attempt at this sort of thing, so some refinements are likely possible in the future.
so far it seems to be working quite well.
Awesome, I'll head to the hardware store. Nice job problem solving, thats the rambler mentality. ;)
Sure looks like you are going to be a great AMC Eagle problem solver.
kiyreagle went on a significant trip today - 10km to the tire exchange (run by my friend jayeson who has provided excellent service since i met him back in sept!) and 10km back.
we needed snows and got a nice set of used P205/65/r15 directional snow & mud tires. one of the rims was very difficult to remove, but i think that's partly because the guy doing the removing didn't lubricate it. the others came off easily.
one of the customers there was curious about kiyreagle and was impressed by the fact it was 4wd, but thought it was rather rusty, but i really didn't think so. he said that the broken windshield was something i could end up having a chat with the police about so i said, "i hoped it gets dark soon ... no wait a sec, it better not get dark, because the headlights don't work." that sent the fellow away laughing so i didn't have to listen to anymore rust nonsense from him.
the steering is soft so we'll look at the possible causes tomorrow.
the brakes require more force than expected, so that could be the back brakes not functioning because the back reservoir was completely dry last week. we may have to bleed it.
in any case, the tsm has all sorts of possibilities to look into.
the shifting has been very nice! 3rd gear sounds a little louder than expected so i wonder if we have a possible lubrication issue in the transmission.
the car stalled once, but started up just fine though there was a strange sound like a floppy belt and a burnt rubber smell towards the end of the trip. both seemed to go away by the time we drove in.
it was a great first flight and has given us several points to start improving upon!
Quote from: regalwizard on December 19, 2009, 08:53:47 PM
I wonder if the headlights are simply a matter of cleaning the connections. Worth a shot, at least. :)
it may well be that. our van has a quirky right headlight connection that requires some pushing from time to time.
it could also be the fuse inside the light switch. we'll take a look at it tomorrow along with the entire dial cluster which is completely non-functional - i think that could be due to either things not being hooked up or a blown fuse.
we were concerned that the speedometer didn't work, but it is just fine. the tachometer though likely needs to be hooked up.
Sweet! Glad the Push rod trick helped.
My jeep suffered from the same thing because of the heavy duty clutch my uncle put in it.
The pressure plate/throwout bearing arm had tweaked a bit and wasn't allowing it to complete disengages the tranny from the flywheel or not enough at least for the syncros to compensate.
Thus I got the same goofy faint sound you did. My fix at first was just like yours until I later put a stock clutch into it and a NOS clutch arm.
today we went around the neighborhood doing brake tests as per tsm. we likely have to replace the pads and it is possible that the rear ones may not be fully functional. however, that wasn't the highlight of the day.
we have a fairly steep and long driveway which leads up to a flat area. whenever we go up that driveway, the engine revs and we go up very slowly almost as though there isn't much power. because we tried the clutch test earlier (going up starting in 3rd gear) which shut the engine off like it is supposed to, we figured there was no clutch slippage. today, though as we tried to go up the driveway, the engine seemed to be noisier than usual.
i decided we'd give it another try to see if we could get some idea of what the problem might be. i backed down the driveway and tried to go up again, but there was no motion - the engine just revved in midair. i tried 1st, 2nd and even 3rd gear, but there was nothing - the engine didn't even die! oh dear, this is feeling like clutch slippage.
we were forced to back out on to the very slightly sloping road, but i couldn't even move up that road in reverse - i was hoping that if we could get to the top of the slope, we might be able to pick up enough momentum to get back onto our property at least.
kyron bravely headed under the car on soaked ground to examine the clutch, but it was all fine. we were wondering if the throwout lever wasn't returning sufficiently, but that didn't make any sense since it had been working just fine for the past couple of days. however, we couldn't move up the hill and could just move down it thanks to gravity.
so i told kyron to tell ranjana to call the bcaa to tow us back up the driveway.
while waiting, i thought i'd try the 4wd setting. i know it didn't make the slightest sense, but when you have no logical options left, you figure on trying one that isn't so logical ... like may be if the clutch gets 4 wheels to work on we can move a bit more than when there are only 2 going.
i put it into 4wd and expected nothing different, but i sure got something different! the car move strongly and with some creaking (probably due to the front wheels not receiving power for so long). i backed up the hill and then went into first gear and drove right up our driveway like we'd never done before - no engine revving in midair and with total power!
i rushed in to tell them to cancel bcaa and then went up a small incline in 2wd, then back down the driveway again just to make sure i hadn't been dreaming all this.
no problems at all!
the only explanation we can come up with, not having studied the transfer case for 2wd/4wd in detail, is that we were somehow hanging in limbo and that things weren't fully engaged. this may be why we could move while on the road, but the engine revved when going up a steep incline.
is it possible not be fully engaged in 2wd (or 4wd), but only partially so?
Quote from: mudkicker715 on December 20, 2009, 09:36:34 PM
yes it is possible its called false neutral. search the forum for it
thx for this!
that's exactly what the symptoms were from what i can read from various portions of these posts:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23488.msg224497#msg224497
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=18823.msg179896#msg179896
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=22768.0
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=18798.0
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=22954.0
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23579.msg225573#msg225573
(though we'll have to figure out what the vacuum stuff is in this link and what it has to do with what i thought was a purely mechanical matter)
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23348.msg223078#msg223078
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23292.msg222425#msg222425
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=22705.msg216301#msg216301
we are trying to redo the front brakes since the braking is not good at all as per earlier post.
when we went into the left front brake, we found the piston was stuck at the back of the bore:
(http://towardsfreedom.com/images/ke-piston.jpg)
also, the shoe lining is touching the rotor:
(http://towardsfreedom.com/images/ke-shoerotor.jpg)
the bore was filled with cobwebs and looks like nothing has moved in years. when we pumped the brake with engine off, nothing moved though the brakes do work (may be the right one and/or the back ones).
should we assume the calipers are frozen and need either replacing or can they be salvaged?
does the rusty, marked up rotor require replacing or can it be cleaned up?
recommendations?
Rebuilt calipers are inexpensive and new rotors are inexpensive too. Eagles are one of the least expensive cars to do complete brake job on. Also strongly consider getting new brake hoses for the front. Don't be surprised as you add new parts that the next weakest part of the brake system will fail. Brake systems on any make or model of older car typically will need extensive work after the first couple of decades.
Quote from: IowaEagle on December 21, 2009, 09:51:17 PM
Rebuilt calipers are inexpensive and new rotors are inexpensive too. Eagles are one of the least expensive cars to do complete brake job on. Also strongly consider getting new brake hoses for the front. Don't be surprised as you add new parts that the next weakest part of the brake system will fail. Brake systems on any make or model of older car typically will need extensive work after the first couple of decades.
[/quote
Totally agree. With anything directly involving the safety of the vehicle, replace all of it if it's old and involves part failure.
thx toug and iowa eagles!
we're getting new calipers, pads and rotors on thursday.
i hadn't thought of the brake hoses, so we'll look into that tomorrow as well.
Hopefully you have picked up a repair manual for it.If so replacing the rotors and calipers and pads really isn't a tough job as in technicality, the tough part may be getting the old parts freed up and off.(even tougher is to understand my spelling).I did mine with a few simple tools and it was time well spent,and like those above said, inexpensive if you do it yourself.
I recently looked at an old quote for doing 1 side of my brakes from a well advertised brake shop,they said 1 side was bad when they put on new tires. I laughed at the cost of over $600 , especially when " who would do just one side" I asked,and got blank stares. I have now just this last 2 weeks replaced,all my rotors,calipers,pads,front wheel bearings, inner and outer tie rod ends, and struts for under that $600 !!
Good luck with all the work you are doing, it is an adventure,but gratifying !!
Quote from: 68AMXGOPAC on December 23, 2009, 08:18:46 AM
Good luck with all the work you are doing, it is an adventure,but gratifying !!
thx 68AMXGOPAC! we're going to try it tomorrow and will let you know.
we've been trying to figure out why the headlights wouldn't come on and fortunately my son found la guardia's howto about this:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=15611.msg226145#msg226145
it was the exact same problem we were experiencing
we picked up the switch from napa and it's all working!
the most difficult part of the exercise was to get to the switch, tilting the instrument cluster after removing the instrument bezel and a few other things (which the tsm instructs you on doing).
Quote from: pradtf on December 21, 2009, 09:43:00 PM
also, the shoe lining is touching the rotor:
(http://towardsfreedom.com/images/ke-shoerotor.jpg)
does the rusty, marked up rotor require replacing or can it be cleaned up?
recommendations?
regarding aspects of this earlier post, what we have discovered is the following.
1. the rotor and the pads are supposed to touch, but gently
2. the concentric circles on the rotor is going to make braking difficult. what happened was that we were got new calipers, rotors and pads. however, the first store gave us the wrong pads, so we put in the calipers with the old rotor and pads. then we bled the system, but the brakes felt and acted just the same. since the calipers were new, we thought either the hoses had gone 'funny' and weren't carrying sufficient pressure or there was really something wrong with the rotor/pad combo. a helpful and knowledgeable person (monique) at lordco told us that when rotors get those concentric circles the pads can't generate sufficient friction, so we got the correct pads from her and used the new rotors. the front brakes work really well now!
rotors can apparently be machined and there is considerable thickness in the old pads so may be the former (and possibly the latter) will be of use in the future.
Looks like you are doing great with it, there allways seems to be a trip or two back to the parts store no matter what. Yes you can get the rotors turned down on a lathe,they do have a minimum thickness specified for turning, that most machine shops will not go past.Old pads could be used in a pinch, but tend to have wear patterns on them to match the old rotor/caliper combo.
thx 68amxgopac.
we setup to do the windshield replacement tonight (in my mother-in-law's garage since we don't have one), but couldn't get past the wiper removal which feels rather embarrassing.
the tsm says in step 2 of windshield removal (p3n-3 1981):
remove windshild wiper arms ...
so we go to p3t-2 and find:
wiper arm replacement
the wiper arms are set on serrated pivot shafts and held securely by spring tension.
(1) to remove arm, lift arm against spring tension and with screwdriver, slide cap away from serrated pivot shaft.
ok so lifting the arm was no problem, but the rest of it didn't happen. the cap, i presume, is the cylindrical thing that the arm attaches to and it goes onto a metal piece which rotates to move the wiper assembly. this metal piece is serrated, i guess, and should hold the wiper assembly in place. so when you lift the arm something should give so that the cap doesn't grip the serrations and so you can slide the whole thing off?
however, we couldn't get the thing to budge on either wiper. we don't want to force anything, so we thought we'd better ask.
are we doing something wrong? should the wipers come off easily?
There should be a small latch that slides under the serrated post to prevent it From coming off. That should have a tab sticking up that you can pry out on to open. The base of the wiper arm should then pull straight off. Some do but after 20 some years most are a little corroded and need some persuasion. A 90 degree pry bar or two with something to protect the body and winshield and some penetrating oil will probably get it off but when The aluminum base is corroded to badly I have had to saw them off along side of the serrations to get them loose. Remember to put a little grease on when putting them back together to make it easier to get back apart next time.
Quote from: Eagleearl on December 29, 2009, 03:24:28 AM
There should be a small latch that slides under the serrated post to prevent it From coming off. That should have a tab sticking up that you can pry out on to open ... Remember to put a little grease on when putting them back together to make it easier to get back apart next time.
we found the tab, but didn't quite know what to do with it other than move it up and down. thx for these tips! we'll give it another go in the morning.
They are tough, and like said, they do corrode on.
I would think if all else fails, that you might be able to hold them up and out of the way with a rig up of string or bungie cord,tied off to something? Like on the cieling of the garage? I think the windshield will certainly come out without them actually bieng removed.......my opinion is it is just to get them out of the way and make it easier.But if the chance of the wiper posts and arms getting damaged or broken trying to get them off is unavoidable I would work around them.
Does the TSM tell of the trick of using piano wire or fishing line to cut through the winshield sealer?
thx 68amxgopac. we thought we'd try working around them too if it required too much force to dislodge them. the tsm doesn't mention wire because it uses the amc tools including their hotknife. the idea certainly seems like a good one, though we saw one guy using wire on youtube and he certainly struggled with it more than people using knives or that cutting gizmo we bought. i wonder whether piano wire would give an even cut too since we are trying the short method.
in any case, we're headed out shortly to give it another try and will report back.
piano wire would probably work pretty good. along with the cornstarch, i used picture wire. once i got the wire thru the sealer i tied it to big washers on the end to give me something to hold. regular picture wire will not last too long though, and will keep breaking. piano wire or something sturdy would do better. I have that cutting gizmo as well :-\,.. go with the wire. and cornstarch (i'm sure your mother-in-law will have some if you don't).
Guitar strings work well for cutting out windshields .
wv, we were thinking of using guitar string, but ended up using the gizmo - it was pretty tough work though. however, the bottom isn't completely done so we'll give the guitar string a try tonight.
[update: ok we broke the guitar string]
i remember mojobean's cornstarch/toothbrush idea on the other thread (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23582.15) and we'll try that for the clean-up part tonight as well.
[update: we left the cornstarch at home]
the stuff isn't urethane as far as we can tell. it seems to behave like butyl all stretchy and gummy, but a store owner told me over the phone that it was something called sarcol (don't know how to spell it).
[update: we got the windshield off and are cleaning all the stuff left behind out]
no way for the short method though. the whole thing is a mess and requires a major clean-up. even part of the trim has been secured with this gum because one of the clips is missing.
we have cleaned up the gunk for the car and are almost ready to put the windshield on. the tsm tells you about support spacers (there are 2 of them at the bottom holding up the windshield) and then there are 6-8 standoff spacers which look like they go under the windshield.
are these necessary and what do they actually do?
(i can post a diagram if people don't know what i'm talking about)
Yes. Most body shops should have some.
they'll keep your window glass from resting butt-up against the metal ledge of the frame. then when you put your sealer in.. it kinda envelopes them in there and it all stays put. definately need them.
Quote from: mojobean on January 01, 2010, 03:50:19 PM
they'll keep your window glass from resting butt-up against the metal ledge of the frame. then when you put your sealer in.. it kinda envelopes them in there and it all stays put. definately need them.
ok thx for this - we were going to ignore them because they weren't there in the first place. everything is closed to day so we will have to make them from wood. since the tsm says we should have a 3/8" min urethane thickness, i presume the standoff spacers should be less in thickness than that. i also presume that we should use some urethane to stick them to the pinchweld flange. then the urethane on the glass itself will take care of the rest.
we put it on around 11pm last night, but winged several things.
for instance, we couldn't quite figure out what size the standoff spacers were supposed to be so they would keep the glass from hitting the metal, so we just put down extra urethane.
we also couldn't figure out what cutting the 'V' on the urethane tube meant initially so we just cut an oval. later my son, realized what the 'V' is all about. the way to do it would seem to be to cut the tube at 90 degrees to get a circle. then you cut out a 'V' as indicated on part of the tube just touching the circle. now when you squeeze the trigger, the bead comes out in a triangle-like shape. the reason for this shape seems to have to do with assisting the glass to settle down nicely. floor and wall tile trowels often have triangular or square 'teeth' which create little waves on the adhesive. the crests of these waves are structurally weak so when you push the tile down, they collapse forming a flat surface which is much harder to compress. similarly, the point of the 'V' is structurally weak, so as you push the glass down, it collapses to a point where there is a greater amount of urethane. to push down on this urethane would require a great deal of force - in fact, you'd have to squish it out beyond the edge of the glass. as such, it lets the glass settle on a fairly firm platform to cure.
we also put the urethane on the car not the glass as the tsm instructed because we saw a lot of people doing just that and because we didn't have suction cups, it was going to be difficult to grab the glass and install it without getting the stuff on your hands. it was also easier to get extra urethane into areas we thought might require it. needless to say we ended up putting too much urethane on, but then pushed some of it into place with a putty knife from the edge. the job looks quite clean and neat now.
we'll be letting it cure for more than 24 hrs before driving - it's not cold here, but hardly warm either.
we didn't use all the urethane in the tube, so we taped up the opening, but i rather doubt we'll be able to stop it from curing, unless there is an intelligent way to store urethane in a mostly empty tube?
in friendship,
prad
It appears you had a successful reinstall!
Looks like you have it done and together.Glass placement can be a pain, especially when dealing with sticky goopy urathane.I know of no way to keep that stuff or most any caulk from curing over a long period of time.I would think it should be good for a few weeks at least in case you have to do some touch up. I think the spaers help in also making sure the urathane isn't too thick,and then have an issue with the trim snapping down on the clips?? It's been awhile since I did a windshield replacement, and actually cracked the one I tried to save from my parts rig.( I was too impatient and broke a perfectly good spare one) :-\
Quote from: 68AMXGOPAC on January 02, 2010, 05:52:43 PM
I think the spaers help in also making sure the urathane isn't too thick,and then have an issue with the trim snapping down on the clips??
ya i could see them doing that. in fact, the windshield is actually a bit lower for the trim - the spacers could possibly have provided a better height. in any case, i don't think the trims will be too difficult to deal with - the previous installer had put some parts of them on with the same goopy stuff he used on the windshield itself. we'll figure something out.
thx btw, for all your suggestions and assistance on this!
Your welcome, and you have been egged, for all your hard work and fighting that steep learning curve.
thx 68amxgopac!
tonight came a real tribulation. kiyreagle had been sitting for a week while we got through the windshield installation in my mother-in-law's garage. we were going to drive home from there at 10pm, but we barely rounded the first block and the engine quit. kyron pushed kiyreagle off to the side of the road and we kept trying to start, but no go - the engine just wouldn't turn over.
we thought may be somehow we'd run out of gas. so we took my mother-in-law's car and went to a gas station where the attendant let us use one of their 5L containers. we put the gas into kiyreagle and started up fine wanting to get back to the gas station to do a proper fill-up. however, about a kilometer later at a 3-way intersection the engine died again and wouldn't start. kyron pushed kiyreagle through a right turn and off the road again, but try as we might nothing was happening.
then as so happens sometimes, i thought of an illogical connection. we had put a new pcv filter when we drove to my mother-in-law's and the engine had aced similarly though not as problematically. so i took the filter out in an act of desperation. sure enough the engine started right away - go figure!
i have a feeling that the wet weather has a lot to do with the shutting off and not starting problems. our van has similar (though not as pronounced) issues in wet weather. is it possible the carb gets too much moisture in there? i vaguely recall a friend of mine in ontario several decades ago telling me how well his old car started in cold weather when he put some ethyl alcohol (i think it was), down the carb ... may be to dry things out?
we drove back to the gas station, returned the container and got 30L of gas. then we drove back to pick up ranjana from her mother's and drove home the 5km without any trouble ... though
1. the wipers were behaving in a fascinating fashion, sweeping at random times, but always before the visibility became in tolerable.
2. 3rd gear sounded somewhat rough and 4th gear sounded rougher. 1st and 2nd were just fine though. we'll have to look into this.
nevertheless, one way or another, kiyreagle got us home ... and i have this feeling, always will!
Do you have intermittent wipers? Turn the switch to left for intermittent (no clicks), to the right for regular two speed wipers (two clicks). What does "rough" sound like? A growl, a whine, some other noise; intermittently or constantly?
Quote from: IowaEagle on January 05, 2010, 06:25:53 AM
What does "rough" sound like? A growl, a whine, some other noise; intermittently or constantly?
it was a growl and constantly on 4th and to a lesser extent on 3rd (though it used to be worse in the past).
after some study and advice seeking (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23857.0) the rear brakes have been installed. the link above shows the problem we had regarding the brake shoes being a bit different from the original, but it doesn't look like it is a problem.
we haven't had a chance to try the brakes yet because as we worked on them we found other problems up the line. the nut attaching the brake lines to the cylinders were so badly rusted that we couldn't get the off even with a vice-grip, so we had to cut the line and actually hammer out one of the cylinders (the other came out quietly). nor could we get the nuts of the 't', we ordered a new rear brake hose, but then couldn't get the old brake hose out either again because the nuts had deteriorated too badly. in our attempt to separate the rear brake hose from the line coming from the front of the car, we broke the rear brake line. so we're going to install a new one tomorrow up to the connector under the engine. it looks like the line from the bottom of the engine compartment to the master cylinder is quite good. our guess is that whoever had the car before kirsten, did work on various parts of the engine area, but never got around to under the car where several things are badly frozen including the parking brake cable which is something that we're going to need to look at soon.
in our effort to work on the brakes, we had to raise the rear of the car only to discover that the tank was leaking. gas tanks are something we have always wanted to stay very, very far away from because of all the stories we've heard about them. however, we figured we might as well get to know kiyreagle's.
after getting some forum advise (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=23889.0), we undertook the first step which was to remove the tank (after siphoning out the gas) and see how badly it is rusted. this was not an easy job because the bolts and nuts that keep the straps up were practically immovable. in fact, the long vertical bolt kept twisting so there was no way we wanted to risk breaking it especially since reading in a thread they are not easy to come by.
here's the solution we utilized using a vice-grip braced against the underside of the car and a wrench:
(http://towardsfreedom.com/images/ke-hangergrip.jpg)
it took quite a while but the nuts came off as the straps and down came the tank. we recovered the sender unit (fuel inflow, float etc) after some effort against the heavy rust and washed the tank out with water. the bolts really aren't in good shape and the nuts are going to take quite an effort to put back on, but we are thinking we may be able to die the threads into better shape and may be put a new nut on.
imho, it seem a rather flimsy arrangement to have the straps attached to this bolt that is just hanging in midair almost, but i guess when you tighten things up it must make a pretty stable configuration. we've also ordered new straps, so we'll see how it all goes together in the next couple of days.
Did you find the leak(s) Prad?
WOW, you all are sure going through every bit of problems that could happen.Hats off to you !!That is alot of frustrating and hard work.I did all the brakes on my wagon when I first got it,front and rear, and the shocks.I ended up just getting the rear brake springs kit,and replaced all the harware,along with the shoes. I also replaced the E-brake cables, front to rear complete.Most of mine was missing, so I had to even find the piece where the front cable ties into the "T" metal piece that attatches to each cable that goes to each side.I found that at an online Rambler link, I think we have here on the nest....
Good luck , I am hoping your repair venture ends soon, and you get to enjoy it more times, than fixing.
I think if you got in a jam, those hanger bolts,can be made up out of threaded rod in a pinch. I might have a set from a prts car, but it was an SX/4,not sure if they would fit. Can someone comment on that?? If they would fit?
Quote from: IowaEagle on January 15, 2010, 06:28:26 AM
Did you find the leak(s) Prad?
not yet - we haven't looked since we've been very busy with all the other things.
i was originally thinking of trashing the gas tank, but now we're thinking of one of the following:
a) find and fix the leak, then see if someone on the nest can use it. the trouble is that it is pretty rusty so i don't know if this is a useful exercise.
b) keeping it and cutting it up so we have some free sheet metal. parts of the tank are bound to be ok.
we didn't put the front stone shield on because we don't see such a thing on any of the other vehicles here, so i imagine that just provides extra protection when going off-road, which is not something we plan on doing. we cleaned it up so though it is rusty it may be useful or we may just use it as sheet metal.
Quote from: 68AMXGOPAC on January 15, 2010, 07:22:10 AM
WOW, you all are sure going through every bit of problems that could happen.Hats off to you !!
thank you very much 68amxgopac! since we don't like to drive, i guess this is one of the ways we can certainly enjoy the car :D
we've been lucky with the weather the past 3 days too - the rain in fact held out for us right till the evening when we put everything together and the car started without any complaints!
then we noticed there was gasoline leaking - not from the new tank, of course, but from the old return fuel line. we can replace the whole thing, but it is pretty close to the hose that connects to the tank, so i think we'll just cut the line and put in a longer hose. i don't know if these lines should be flared in anyway or whether just a screw-on band clamp (don't know the technical name for them) would suffice.
our brakes all work nicely now though the main parking cable sticks. we had some problems bleeding the rear brakes because the bleeders from the brake cylinders were of different sizes which we found to be very strange considering the cylinders are simply mirror images of one another. it took us a while to figure out that our bleeder hose wasn't going to fit :-[
what we are finding is that we aren't too bad at recognizing problems and figuring out solutions. however, our methodology and technique need improvement, because we are inefficient at noticing certain things right now. i guess that improvement will come with more experience.
Quote from: 68AMXGOPAC on January 15, 2010, 07:25:39 AM
I think if you got in a jam, those hanger bolts,can be made up out of threaded rod in a pinch. I might have a set from a prts car, but it was an SX/4,not sure if they would fit. Can someone comment on that?? If they would fit?
that is very kind of you to consider this!
however, we have managed to solve the problem by with a die. it was the first time i used one and i must say this is a very enjoyable experience. new nuts turn effortlessly now. we cleaned up and oiled the bolts too so they actually look pretty nice now too.
we also added about 10 washers on each bar so that the nut is within reach of a socket and we won't have to use a wrench to get at them anymore.
should the nuts be 'locked' somehow eg should they be lock nuts or have a lock washer or even use locktight? i was thinking of putting a second nut under the top one as security.
Quote from: regalwizard on January 18, 2010, 01:15:39 AM
Oh, hey, if you don't want that skid plate I'll happily take it off your hands! Since I do tend to off road Pepper now and then, it would make sense to give her some kind of protection (a welcome change of pace for the ol' girl).
fantastic! it's all yours!! i mean it's pepper's ;D
email me for a time when you can be around.
Lock washers would be acceptable, if you thought it might come loose.I usually add them just in case.
Your comment about not driving much,and getting to enjoy the Eagle by working on it is priceless ;D .
Quote from: 68AMXGOPAC on January 18, 2010, 07:28:16 AM
Lock washers would be acceptable, if you thought it might come loose.I usually add them just in case.
thx 68amxgopac! we'll do that.
we just solved the steering problem last night ... well actually this morning at about 2am after spending a couple of hours figuring out how to get the pitman arm off and then several more putting the new one on.
it was actually lucky that kyron figured out from the motion of the pitman arm that it would likely be the source of the problem because the tsm is a bit vague (for newbies anyway) about this. point #3 in their diagnosis has a sentence about checking the steering linkage which could involve a lot of components, but he noticed a horizontal slide in the pitman arm.
most of our woes, advice received and solutions are described here:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=24041.0 (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=24041.0)
the experience was a multi-instructive one (eg we learned how to load and use a grease gun) because the difficulty putting the arm on was due to the very low tolerances involved in the fit. we were able to use a bit of brute force to get the old one out, but that was because it was slightly worn. it would not have been wise to force the new one in because we'd have likely damaged something. neither the tsm nor anything on the web mentioned the idea of going after the tie-rod on the drivers side though this was really the most logical avenue of dealing with the situation - i think we were reluctant to doing so because
a) it wasn't in the tsm
b) it wasn't on the web anywhere
c) mostly because we were frightened by the prospect of tackling yet another rusty nut, bolt and formidable cotter pin (in fact, as i pulled on the cotter pin i managed to cause the wheels to come towards me :o)
the way we got the pin out was to use an awl through the loop end (since pliers just couldn't hold on) and making enough room to get a small punch in to work it some more. then eventually we got a larger punch in there since the thinner one was bending.
the other problem we encountered had been with getting the old pitman arm out - the pitman puller worked fine at the steering box end, but the other end is cone-shaped too so it sticks in pretty strongly. apparently there is a tool that looks like a two-pronged fork with both tines shaped like wedges which you can hammer in, but we didn't have one, so we stuck in 2 chisels and hammered alternately on them.
we took kiyreagle out this afternoon and the steering is excellent and very responsive! the wheel is a bit off-center, but that should likely be a simple fix possibly related to the tie-rods adjustment which would likely align the steering system more optimally.
CONGRATS !! Sounds like you have it fixed. I think you deserve an omlet, let alone an egg! It is alot of hard work.
Quote from: 68AMXGOPAC on January 21, 2010, 07:32:00 AM
CONGRATS !! Sounds like you have it fixed. I think you deserve an omlet, let alone an egg! It is alot of hard work.
thx again 68amxgopac!
as you know by now, right after the steering issue was solved the clutch cylinder started leaking (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=24829.0). we've ordered from autozone since there isn't anything in canada.
and, just so we don't get bored, the started relay ceased to function today. we were able to get the starter to function bypassing the relay which is why we think that is the problem. the curious thing was it all started just fine last night. i didn't think it would conk out suddenly like that, but i guess this is the way they go.
I was going to say check your neutral safety wire connetion, but you don't have one with a manual trans car. But, yes, they can just conk out all off a sudden like that. I had one do that in a Wal Mart parking lot and had to do the bypass to drive over to the parts store for a new one.
Quote from: IowaEagle on January 28, 2010, 02:40:28 PM
had to do the bypass to drive over to the parts store for a new one.
so how safe is it to bypass the connection with a couple of screwdrivers?
is this one way of hotwiring a car?
It is fairly safe to bypass it for starting reasons -- just watch the sparks. I use non-insulated plier handles. Hot wiring a car differs among different types of cars. And, for several reasons I am not going to share publicly how to hot wire an AMC Eagle.
Quote from: pradtf on January 28, 2010, 12:29:17 AM
as you know by now, right after the steering issue was solved the clutch cylinder started leaking (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=24829.0). we've ordered from autozone since there isn't anything in canada.
the clutch cylinder arrived today and i must say i'm really very impressed with autozone. starting from placing the order with a very efficient adrian mejia to working with special order problem solver kevin pore to getting the item within a week and a half! because this wasn't a standard stock item, kevin had to get involved. we kept in communication (kevin is really excellent!) as the order made it to them - and then he and his colleague called me on the day it was to be shipped to sort out a postal problem which they resolved by sending the package out via fedex (with no additional charges!). they emailed me a tracking number. as if this wasn't enough, another of their people called to let me know that the thing was on its way and gave me the eta (one day delivery, believe it or not!) as well as double-checking the tracking number.
the service is simply superb!
i'm definitely getting more stuff from autozone!!
we installed it, but haven't had a chance to test things just yet because it got dark - we'll try it out tomorrow.
Its not often we hear of good auto parts store stories. Thanks for that one Prad.
we just had our longest and best run!
we went to the gas station to fill up and then went for a ride on the highway where we found that the earlier concern about the 4th gear was no longer an issue. with the various new components (discussed earlier in this thread) in place including a quick patch of a recently discovered fuel line leak with seal-it, kiyreagle performed flawlessly!
there are many other things that require doing, but kiyreagle is now very road worthy and is flying with confidence!
Have a Good Egg!
:hello2: :blob1: :hello2: :blob1: :hello2: :blob1: :hello2:
EGGCELLENT !! :o ;) here's another , you should hire yourself and son out now for Eagle repairs.
Quote from: 68AMXGOPAC on February 08, 2010, 04:16:53 PM
EGGCELLENT !! :o ;) here's another , you should hire yourself and son out now for Eagle repairs.
that is a most kind and encouraging comment indeed!
i've been thinking of something a bit different in mind though - i recall a post from dean (i think) about setting up an eagle sanctuary in the middle part of canada. i was toying with the idea of doing something like this out here may be - never hurts to have more eagles in flight! however, i doubt if we have the time to do this sort of thing though we are going to put down a concrete pad since we'd like to work in something other than dirt and mud ;D
Eagle Safe Sanctuaries are needed everywhere. Of course other AMC cars would also be welcomed.
Quote from: IowaEagle on February 08, 2010, 06:21:03 PM
Eagle Safe Sanctuaries are needed everywhere. Of course other AMC cars would also be welcomed.
well we were toying with the possibility of an sx4 may be down the road or may be even a gremlin.
the thing is we can now look at a car and not feel helpless - that is the legacy kiyreagle has bestowed upon us.
when the clutch cylinder was leaking the turn signals stopped blinking. we thought the flasher had been damaged by the fluid. when we cleaned up the old one and put it back, the signals were ok for a day and then went out again. then with the new cylinder in, we even put a new flasher into the fuse box, but no blinking. then we put the old flasher in and found the hazard blinking works so there is likely nothing wrong with the flasher.
so we can get the hazard to flash. we can get the turn signals to light up and hence can make them blink manually by moving the indicator up and down. however, we can't seem to get them to blink by clicking the lever into place.
all the indicator bulbs are functioning, so where is the problem? is it in the lever switch? if so, then how come we can get the signals to light up manually?
The hazard flasher and turn signal flashers use separate flasher units. The turn signal one is over and kind of above the e-brake pedal near the kick panel. It may still be attached to the kick panel or maybe not.
Quote from: IowaEagle on February 14, 2010, 06:11:04 PM
The hazard flasher and turn signal flashers use separate flasher units. The turn signal one is over and kind of above the e-brake pedal near the kick panel. It may still be attached to the kick panel or maybe not.
wow! thx!!!
that saved us a lot of trouble. we were going to follow-up on suggestions about taking the lever off and replacing it.
we just plugged in the new flasher we'd gotten and we're ready to go.
in fact, we're going to go at night just so we can see the lights better ;D
now that we've put a new pitman arm in and the steering is tight, we've noticed that when the wheels are straight, the steering wheel is at 1 o'clock (30 degrees clockwise) instead of being at 12 o'clock (0 degrees). we tried going into the steering mechanism to realign it, but stopped after finding that the turn signal return knob doesn't permit realignment.
it seems we have to go in further and use a compressor to do so since things have strong springs inside.
or is this something we should be trying to solve by moving things underneath the car - tierod adjustments perhaps?
it's not a big deal the 5 degrees, but we'd like things to be as perfect as possible.
You may want to consider having a professional front wheel alignment done at this time.
Quote from: pradtf on February 18, 2010, 02:34:00 PM
now that we've put a new pitman arm in and the steering is tight, we've noticed that when the wheels are straight, the steering wheel is at 1 o'clock (30 degrees clockwise) instead of being at 12 o'clock (0 degrees). we tried going into the steering mechanism to realign it, but stopped after finding that the turn signal return knob doesn't permit realignment.
it seems we have to go in further and use a compressor to do so since things have strong springs inside.
or is this something we should be trying to solve by moving things underneath the car - tierod adjustments perhaps?
it's not a big deal the 5 degrees, but we'd like things to be as perfect as possible.
Time for professional alignment. It's not something you can fix by taking apart your steering column, it's from underneath your car. There is a chance you may have installed the pitman arm one tooth off of center, but I don't know (never done one on an Eagle). Definitely get it professionally aligned, it will save your tires, wallet and headaches.
I agree with IE. It does sound like tie rod ends could resolve it, but the best you can do without
professional help is trying to measure the toe in/toe out with a tape measure.
After you get the wheel centered you have to worry about alignment.
You can get it close enough to drive to a front end shop that way.
At least that is what I've found in my limited experience.
the car seems to be driving fine btw. it doesn't veer - goes straight.
it's just that the steering wheel seems misaligned.
we'll have someone look at it though as you have all suggested.
in another thread, goam68pac was kind enough to wonder why i haven't been around lately.
i haven't posted for a while because of 3 reasons:
1) we're in limbo temporarily while we gear up for the next set of projects
2) kiyreagle has been flying just beautifully
3) we've had a major restructuring of people at home
regarding #2, i'm surprised at just how well kiyreagle handles - more like a sports car than any car we've ever owned other than a 1984 chrysler laser. the way this car holds the road and takes the turns is most astonishing. i'm actually puzzled by the physics of it considering we're built so high! a rather knowledgeable friend of ours listened to the engine and was most impressed. i have a feeling that the odometer reading is a true one around 94000 - i don't think it has gone around the block at all.
regarding #1, our plans are to bring kiyreagle up to collector status and get collector plates. this is a long way from having a beater 4wheel drive :D
what we need to do is save up a bit and then build a concrete pad so we're not working in the mud and dirt. right now the insurance has expired and we don't plan to renew it for a month or so - we'll just drive up and down the driveway to keep things in good shape.
we'll provide progress reports once we get rolling again!
#2: I have wondered about the handling, also.
We're high (don't take that the wrong way! :o)
but the running gear is heavy and I don't think it is especially high.
Much more of the weight is in the lower drive train than in the body.
I have wondered if that isn't a factor in the Eagles being so stable.
The IFS and the wider rear end (again, don't take that the wrong way!)
also are a big part of the handling characteristics.
Quote from: jim on March 17, 2010, 05:54:24 PM
#2: I have wondered about the handling, also.
We're high (don't take that the wrong way! :o)
but the running gear is heavy and I don't think it is especially high.
Much more of the weight is in the lower drive train than in the body.
I have wondered if that isn't a factor in the Eagles being so stable.
The IFS and the wider rear end (again, don't take that the wrong way!)
also are a big part of the handling characteristics.
My Dr. did use a foul 4 letter word on me once upon a time ( hope I don't get a vaycay from The Nest for this ), .....diet.
Quote from: meping on June 30, 2010, 06:22:30 PM
oh wow thats an amazing tale it really brought tears to my eyes though i cant seem to access the rescue thread did it get moved somewhere either way i really look forward to seeing how this car progresses and good for you for being willing to take the eagle to its well deserved collectors status
hi meping!
the rescue thread disappeared from what i was told, because its owner was banned. unfortunately, it had links to pics too, but i don't know where those links are (possibly someone else from that thread may know though).
in any case, there will be new pics after restoration efforts on our part eventually.
we've been just doing very minimal work on kiyreagle because we still haven't made a decent place to work yet, but things are going well though at a very slow pace right now. more things should start happening after the summer when we'll look into the path to collector status!
summer didn't go according to earlier plans so we didn't get any work done on kiryeagle. however, during the snowstorm last night we thought we'd take the car for a spin on our driveway (no insurance right now) and flatten the snow. kiyreagle had no problems going through the snow, but kept shutting off in idle - almost as though the idle speed was too low. however, we wouldn't start again for about 10 min after shutting off (almost as though there was flooding, but no smell). each time we'd restart without problem, but then shut down unless i kept my foot on the gas.
we will be investigating the carb to see if there is clogging, but i'm wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to diagnose this.
Pradtf, It sounds like the choke may not be working properly. Does it get better after running for a short while, or is it ongoing? Normally idle should not need to be changed unless it is to compensate for something else not working right. Another possibility is that the gas in your gas tank has gone bad. I seem to recall that you have not been driving it much lately. Good luck and I hope that advice will be of some help.
Dustin
Quote from: dustybat13 on November 22, 2010, 02:09:33 AM
Pradtf, It sounds like the choke may not be working properly. Does it get better after running for a short while, or is it ongoing? Normally idle should not need to be changed unless it is to compensate for something else not working right. Another possibility is that the gas in your gas tank has gone bad. I seem to recall that you have not been driving it much lately. Good luck and I hope that advice will be of some help.
Dustin
thx dustin!
i'd completely overlooked the fact that the gas is still the stuff we put in back before spring. we've started the car regularly and it runs fine, but i think in the cold weather, things are different all things being considered. we do run better after going a short while, but this time we'd been going for more than 10min. we'll investigate the choke more thoroughly this week when we get the chance.
Sounds like you might want to syphon as much of the gas out of the tank as you can and replace it with some fresh stuff. The carb may well be gummed up from the old stuff. You may also want to consider buying a bottle of sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Not only will it prolong the life of the fuel signifigantly, but it will help to clean out deposits in your fuel system. Good luck!
Dustin
Quote from: dustybat13 on November 24, 2010, 05:13:11 PM
Sounds like you might want to syphon as much of the gas out of the tank as you can and replace it with some fresh stuff. The carb may well be gummed up from the old stuff. You may also want to consider buying a bottle of sta-bil fuel stabilizer. Not only will it prolong the life of the fuel signifigantly, but it will help to clean out deposits in your fuel system. Good luck!
Dustin
hey thx for all these ideas, dustin!
didn't know about the stabilizer so i'll look into it.
:hello2:
ok we found the problem apr 20, 2011!!
it the pump link had come off because there is no clip for it!
all is well now and we've made a clip appropriately with a paperclip.
:rotfl:
we're off to an early start to get kiyreagle to collector status!
we want to deal with the exhaust leaks soon. there is one at the frontend of the muffler and may be one at the engine connection of the front exhaust pipe. there is no catalytic converter and the pipes and clamps are badly rusted.
so we want to do the whole exhaust system!
lordco have the tailpipe, muffler, rear exhaust pipe and universal catalytic converter, but no front exhaust pipe. they suggested we take it to a store and have the whole thing done, but we're looking at $800+ from one quote. so what i'm thinking is that we'd be better off trying to get one of these places to put in a front exhaust pipe.
alternatively, may be someone has a recommendation where we can get a front exhaust pipe? i think i need a gasket for this too?
Eagles sold in Canada didn't require catalytic converters, so you can save yourself some money there. In place of the CC there is a larger diameter pipe section, maybe a means of regulating backpressure or something.
Last year, a shop here in Calgary did a complete exhaust for my Concord for under $300, so a quote of $800+ comes as a shock to me.
I just checked RockAuto and they indicate the front pipe is available for $62.80 CAD. Says it's for California emissions but it should work for other applications.
Here's the whole shebang (kaboodle?):
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=34038.0
Quote from: El Matador on April 20, 2011, 03:24:47 PM
Eagles sold in Canada didn't require catalytic converters
First I have heard of this. My 81 Concord had a converter that I got rid of. Is it because an Eagle was clasified as a truck? Hence the solid bumper system? Was the cat delete for all years?
Oh, and Jurjen, did your Eagles have cats?
My '81 LTD wagon, built in Canada, has no converter (just a piece of straight pipe clamped in the cat's place) and no smog stuff at all... Maybe it's also because she was born as an export model, and back in '81 catalytic converters were not mandatory in most of the European countries.
Quote from: El Matador on April 20, 2011, 03:24:47 PM
I just checked RockAuto and they indicate the front pipe is available for $62.80 CAD. Says it's for California emissions but it should work for other applications.
i found it - thx!
i'm amazed at the shipping cost of $121 though!
i may just look around for people who may be able to do the job for less than the $800 especially if you got yours done for $300.
ours is broken. i can get a non-cruise (81") from lordco for $22. rockauto sells a cruise version for $9, but it is for automatic and ours is standard.
i presume i can use the non-cruise cable based on this:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=35177.msg279233#msg279233
lordco doesn't have one.
we need to haul about 2000 lbs so a class 1 hitch should do fine as shown on JF-13 of tsm.
this says a reese class 1 may work:
Princess Auto in Ottawa, Canada has some Reese Universal class I hitch kits for sale.
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=9562.msg87352#msg87352
are these readily available?
and i guess i have to drill holes in the bumper too :(
a class 3 sounds nice because it seems we don't have to poke holes in the bumper:
This one here posted previously is exactly what mine is like that I pulled off of a '87 wagon in the junk yard. Didnt know it was class 3? But that beast is heavy. Goes on the frame and backing plate, doesnt even touch the bumper.
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=14151.msg139589#msg139589
this exchange suggests to have one custom made:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=34549.msg272167#msg272167
so what to do?
I've seen the class I bumper hitches on various auction sites from time to time. They were common enough that you should be able find one out there.
U-Haul had 3-4 class III hitches rolling around a few years ago, I got one. It had a big red discontinued tag on it. It's worth calling around to them and similar places to see what they have in the system yet.
Quote from: pradtf on April 22, 2011, 04:39:43 PM
ours is broken. i can get a non-cruise (81") from lordco for $22. rockauto sells a cruise version for $9, but it is for automatic and ours is standard.
i presume i can use the non-cruise cable based on this:
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=35177.msg279233#msg27923
we just removed the old speedometer cable. the picture shows the break:
(http://www.towardsfreedom.com/zz/spdcable.jpg)
the broken pieces don't fit too nicely so something was likely lost during breakage.
however, there are small holes in each piece and it may be possible to crazy glue or epoxy a metal wire to join them, but i am uncertain as to how effective this will be long term.
we do have a non-cruise cable we could install instead.
and so we did:
speedometer cable removal and installation (http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=35609.0)