hey maybe you can help me i have a 1987 amc eagle and it has been stating just fine although lately when i am driving and i come to a stop light it has ben stalling(dyeing) to where i have to restart it again each time i have been comming to a stop light it has died i have gave it a tune up and all can you please give me your input to my problem please thanks!
Carb idle tubes, maybe.
http://www.amceaglenest.com/~iowaeagl/guide/index.php?title=September_1985_-_IS_34E_-_6_cyl._Engine_BBD_Carburetor_-_Restricted_Idle_Fuel_Pickup_Tubes
My 82 would stall occasionally at stoplights or slowing to turn a corner. I cleaned the idle tubes and it helped for while. When it did it again I ordered a kit to upgrade the tubes and added a screen below the tubes. It's been over a year and its never stalled ever again.
Ken
You really don't need the screens and shorter tubes unless you're a serious mudder and/or use crap for gas. If you just drill out the bottom of the tubes to .030 per the AMC service bulletin; you'll probably be fine (and without spending any $'s!).
Sometimes, a bad coil will cause these same problems.
Start engine, idles, drives just fine. Then, stop at a light and it's dead. You have to restart it, it's ok, then it happens again.
Years ago, I had a '62 Dodge Dart, 318, push button Torqueflite. It had the same problem. Would keep stalling. A mechanic told me that a weak coil will cause the same problem. Sometimes, a weak coil can be finicky around sources of microwaves.
Every time I pulled into the PA State Police barricks, it would stall. I'd start it, then it would stall, wouldn't run. When I pushed it out of the parking lot, it would start right up and drive just fine, until I took my foot of the pedal.
Steve
my 84 wagon would do the same thing, i was getting tired of 2 foot driving! take a can of carb cleaner and spray aroung vacuums, if there is a leak you'll know! my leak was a missing vacuum line on the top of the intake mani....still not sure where it's supposed to go so i plugged it and she quit stalling......oh i also had a split vac. line going to the EGR valve fixed that also......say ne one know where that line on the top rear of the intake manifold is supposed to go?
im going to agree with eagleluv, my buddy had the same thing when he got his 82' most likely you have a leak, for us it was the egr but could really be anything, just use carb cleaner to find the general area, when you spray it and the idle goes up that is where you wana start looking
Quote from: eagleluv on August 27, 2009, 12:20:06 PM
say ne one know where that line on the top rear of the intake manifold is supposed to go?
If it's on the very back right close to the firewall it would be the vacuum for the TC switch unless someone plugged that in somewhere else. Should be a red hard line.
well it's on top of intake manifold very back, it has a t-fitting, one line was attached the other MIA, so i plugged the one and wow did the engine settle down, but no vacuum diagram shows this for 84?
Quote from: regalwizard on July 27, 2009, 01:20:01 AM
*perks up* Really? Where would one get one of these magic kits & screens? If nothing else, it can't hurt to try! ;D
Regalwizard, I don't think your question ever got answered. I believe this is the magic kit that was referenced.
http://www.jeepcarterbbdcarb.com/kit.html
My eagle stopped stalling when I overhauled the carb. Then it was ok. Now, with it being colder, I'm going to rebuild the carb again, drill out the vac idle lines/tubes in carb as illustrated. Mine has NOTHING to do with vac lines cuz I tried the carb spray test.
I suddenly started having this problem today, stalling coming to stops or slow turns. I was thinking of checking all the vacuum hoses and other items then I remembered that since I last drove it, I had removed a plug from a vent hose near the gas tank. I put the plug back in and the Eagle doesn't choke anymore at stop signs! ;D
It doesn't take much to mess them up. Not like the good, old, old days.
Where is this vent hose, Jav Man?
Pics? I had been thinking that my stalling around corners had to do with the power steering and at stops was a slow down shift(er(valve?)) but I kinda want to try your fix.
:)
I tried all of these fixes yesterday to get my 85 wagon to quit stalling out and missing at lower Rpms and nothing helped.
I even went as far as to do a entire tuneup with cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pcv and filters. I also changed out about 12' of vacuum line. Nothing helped.
Spraying carb cleaner everywhere did not raise the rpms up at all Either.
Runs like a champ on the Hwy no stuttering or missing in the upper rpm range..
I am at a loss, I really wanted the car to be at least a driver for now.
I assume it is carb related and I have decided To try the Motorcraft 2100.
Interested to hear how that goes, brother.
It will happen soon enough. All the parts should be in this tues.
I have read up on it so much my head is spinning.. Hopefully all that reading pays off.
it would appear that i am not the only having these problems...
I have found this often to be a problem w/ cracked, unplugged or misrouted vac lines. The carters idle tubes are a known issue as well. This is one of the reasons I went the Motorcraft route many years ago. I always can hear a Jeep/Eagle comming to the house because they usually die at the stop sign at the top of the hill. I smile and walk outside to wait for them to restart and get to me. :)
OREGONCOWGIRl, what happened with your problem?
Seeing how she only posted once in July 2009 we may never know. ;D
I discovered almost every BBD I've had came loose around the middle. The screws that held the body together would back out (largely due to the aircleaner weight flopping around on rough roads, stopping and starting out fast)
Update on OREGONCOWGIRl... Guess who just ordered a Motorcrafy kit theough feEBay?.?.?...... OREGONCOWGIRl
It's for her Eagle and I have invited her back to the nest.....
Oregongirl:
As per your stalling problems....I had the same problem for awhile. Seems my problem was the front of the exhaust manifold coming loose. I hear this is a problem with the 258. Some loosen up in the rear, mine loosen up in the front. The car runs great for a few months then it starts to stumble. Then stalls. I go out and tighten the fron3 bold on the manifold. It runs great aftwer that. I plan to put some locktight on them when I get a chance.
Steve
Quote from: PAcowboy on July 27, 2012, 10:50:51 PM
Oregongirl:
As per your stalling problems....I had the same problem for awhile. Seems my problem was the front of the exhaust manifold coming loose. I hear this is a problem with the 258. Some loosen up in the rear, mine loosen up in the front. The car runs great for a few months then it starts to stumble. Then stalls. I go out and tighten the fron3 bold on the manifold. It runs great aftwer that. I plan to put some locktight on them when I get a chance.
Steve
Will locktight work? I'm wondering if it's too hot. We've been talking about trying to figure out a way to tighten more permanently - but was thinking the area would be too hot for locktight.
ETA: Woops...this is Euphonical, I need to not read the board under my husband's name apparently. I just saw the idea of using locktight and it got me all excited as to the idea that maybe it could work LOL - didn't dawn on me I was under the wrong user...think I'll log out now and login correctly :newbie:
Anti-rattle lockwashers cure the problem.
Quote from: carnuck on July 28, 2012, 12:55:24 PM
Anti-rattle lockwashers cure the problem.
I have never heard of such a thing. Where do we purchase the correct ones?
Quote from: George Mann on October 04, 2012, 08:27:17 AM
Quote from: carnuck on July 28, 2012, 12:55:24 PM
Anti-rattle lockwashers cure the problem.
I have never heard of such a thing. Where do we purchase the correct ones?
I just take a bolt or nut to match the size at the hardware store.
I didn't like the high curb idle 750 rpm (in gear) causing the rear differential clunk & the engine still died. The stepper motor pins were stuck in rich giving that constant deep throat pitch. I put in a new EGR valve (wouldn't compress), oxygen sensor (it was there) & took apart & cleaned the stepper motor. The pins loosened up. I've got the curb idle down to 550. The pins actually moved to rich when I leaned-in the carb screws but deep throat is gone. When the fast idle is on now, the pins move but the last time they will move is when the fast idle releases. Its running nice & hasn't died but I don't like the fact that those pins never move in neutral if I throttle-up the engine. Upstream & Downstream are on the bench but both Tower ports are plugged. I notice I have a head gasket leak of oil noticeable in front at the first exhaust port area. There is probably a slight compression loss but can affect this problem? I'm close but still missing something.
Why do you think its a head gasket leak? If it were a head leak you could try spraying propane from an unlit torch in the area to see if the idle goes up. The idea being the idle would go up if propane was sucked in.
I hope this isn't a repost - just had a computer shut-down - A lot of things have surprised me in my life & I wouldn't be shocked if it were that. The CEC system isn't the easiest thing to diagnose. I'll pickup a can of carb cleaner & give that a shot however.