AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Mighty 258 => General Service and Diagnosis => Topic started by: JayRamb on June 28, 2011, 01:15:58 AM
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Wondering why, during the first 5 minutes of warm-up/start up, does my Eagle just QUIT?! The Eagle doesn't sputter and quit; it just quits. Have brand new up-graded HEI ignition, wires, plugs, cap, rotor, MSD coil, and all. The ONLY thing I can think of is that the timing was retarded below 0. I just don't get it. After the car is warmed up, it runs just fine. Any inkling?
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My vote would be timing. I'm assuming you are running ported vacuum to the distributor, not Manifold vacuum.
W/ the HEI, I recomemnd running off the run position on the starter solenoid w/ a 12V ceramic resistor. That will eliminate all power related issues.
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This may sound silly, but, is your choke working properly? If you stay with it, can you keep it running, or does it just die off no matter what?
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This may sound silly, but, is your choke working properly? If you stay with it, can you keep it running, or does it just die off no matter what?
Hmmm...I'll triple check the choke. Once it dies, sometimes it will catch and start.
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My vote would be timing. I'm assuming you are running ported vacuum to the distributor, not Manifold vacuum.
W/ the HEI, I recomemnd running off the run position on the starter solenoid w/ a 12V ceramic resistor. That will eliminate all power related issues.
@ Gronk....how would I hook up a ceramic resistor, the proper way. Also, all my emissions are hooked up as original. No mods there.
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Did you actually put a HEI distributor in, or did you do the "Junkyard HEI" with the HEI module in the old ignition module box?
Did this start happening right after doing the HEI upgrade?
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Did this start happening right after doing the HEI upgrade?
This started right after I replaced my timing gear last fall. HEI is not the junkyard drop in. ;)
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So I assume you have the distributor where everything is already inside, and all you have to do is hook it up to a 12V source and it works.
If so, then you bypassed the ECM by putting HEI in, and therefore none of the electronic emission equipment is functioning. Since it is now bypassed, you have to set the ignition timing, as it may be retarded to ATDC, set the stepper motor pins to the rich position, and put the distributor vacuum advance to ported vacuum.
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The HEI is a 1 wire distributor (plus a tach wire if desired) but for all operational purposes, it's a 1 + 12V wire that is on/off w/ the run position in the key.
Use a 12-14awg wire from the run terminal on your solenoid to a 1 in 1 out, 12V ceramic resistoe mounted to something metal like the firewall (resistor will get HOT!!!) Then run from the resistor to your + terminal on the HEI distributor.
That's it! That's Wiring an HEI Distributor 101
If you did install the HEI distributor, none of your emissions controld are functional anymore. You might as well remove them all and install a manual (older) carter or a Motorcraft.
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If you did install the HEI distributor, none of your emissions controld are functional anymore. You might as well remove them all and install a manual (older) carter or a Motorcraft.
Only the electronic emission controls would be non functional. However, the EGR, EVAP canister, intake heater, TAC, and PCV will still be functional.
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@ ammachine390 : yes, a few vac lines need to change and all of the manual emissions controls will stay effective. Think 82 and older config for carburetor and emissions controls.
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Make sure your choke and fast idle are working properly.