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Author Topic: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?  (Read 16214 times)

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Offline DaemonForce

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Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« on: August 23, 2011, 01:27:43 PM »
I'm having a bit of a dilemma going about this. I have a front outer CV boot on the passenger side that appears to have torn within the last 24 hours. I probably drove the Eagle about 3 miles with it like this and I don't hear any clicking noises or anything. Normally I would just reboot this thing but I need this ready by next week for very long trips and I can't risk anything even LOOKING wrong let alone going wrong while I'm 100+mi away. Rather than take this as it comes I'm just going to replace both half-shafts. Rather than do my own assembly, it appears much cheaper to buy two pre-assembled units and swap them in. Does anyone have any experience with these or am I taking too much of a risk?

It looks really stupid easy to me but the real problem I have is with a senile engine mechanic that pesters me to NOT do this. I don't want to spend the $400 for a tire company to replace these when I'm far more comfortable doing all the labor myself but I just want to get this in and done while dealing with as little drama as I can. Am I wrong?
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline jim

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #1 on: August 23, 2011, 01:52:38 PM »
There has been a great deal of discussion about this.  Many of us have done it.  It isn't rocket science but is rather labor intensive.  It can be difficult to remove the big nut on the outer end and also the bolts on the inside.  There tips about those issues, and there is a really good write up in the eaglepedia.
Some of us, me in particular, have had problems with remanufactured half shafts.  I had several with incorrect spline ends.  I have never had a problem with a new half shaft.
Do lots of research on this site.  I just hope that information wasn't lost in the recent data loss.
I'm right 98% of the time, and I don't care about the other 3%.
"The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people;
that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed."
--Thomas Jefferson to John Cartwright, 1824. ME 16:45
What part of "shall not be infringed" do they not understand?
08 Impala
01 Yukon 4X4
(There's more to life than fuel mileage)
83 Eagle wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
88 Eagle white woody wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
86 wagon parts car
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Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #2 on: August 23, 2011, 02:05:59 PM »
It can be difficult to remove the big nut on the outer end and also the bolts on the inside.
This isn't a big concern to me...Yet.
Some of us, me in particular, have had problems with remanufactured half shafts.  I had several with incorrect spline ends.  I have never had a problem with a new half shaft.
Suggestions?
Do lots of research on this site.  I just hope that information wasn't lost in the recent data loss.
I tried looking up some stuff about this and something from Google usually pointed me to a part of this forum that either doesn't exist or I don't have the permission to view it. I've seen a few things about CV half-shafts on the Eaglepedia but it's not very in-depth. Do you believe it's a better idea to get a new CV boot kit with a new half-shaft just in case I have a problem with the remanufactured shafts? Like I said, there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with what I've got other than a torn boot so I might be able to save it. I'm not expecting a problem with these remanufactured parts but if it happened to you there's a pretty good chance it would happen to me as well. This car is sort of a giant pink spotted unicorn like that when it comes to certain things that should be so dead simple. I don't really have a lot of room for fail even though I'm supposed to have the time to be doing this. :(
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline maximus7001

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #3 on: August 23, 2011, 02:28:37 PM »
It is quite easy to do. If you only have one nasty boot then only one shaft really has to be changed. Your eagle does not even have to leave the ground. Six 8mm allen bolts and the big center nut, 36mm or 1 3/8" will both fit, you might need a 1 7/16" if the nut is not original or the new one is that size.

The hub end comes out last and goes in first torqued to 175 foot pounds (with the wheel on the ground) then further tighten to align the cotter pin (do not loosen). The 8mm flange bolts get 45 foot pounds in a pattern like lug nuts.

As far as drama goes the newer cv boots being used on these recently can and probably will rub on the grease fitting of quality replacement lower ball joint like moog. Factory lower ball joints have no fitting so no rub. Also reject any shaft that is not assembled correctly. As in the boot straps being misaligned or crooked.

This link will show you the only solution for the rubbing while still being able to grease the lower ball joint, made by Scott Drake industries, a regular 90 degree fitting will kill the boot quickly: http://www.aapd.net/cmpdetail.aspx?ID=4005
1968 Javelin SST 290
1981 Concord DL sedan, vintage red metallic (now parts car)
1985 Eagle wagon, same colour as the concord (project car/daily driver)
1997 GMC Safari SLT AWD (full time 4x4) G-80 LSD

Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #4 on: August 23, 2011, 02:44:28 PM »
It is quite easy to do. If you only have one nasty boot then only one shaft really has to be changed. Your eagle does not even have to leave the ground.
The thing is, I know what causes every other part on this car to fail. I DON'T know what tore this CV boot especially since I made note of it being in great looking condition the night before. Whatever the case, the boot is torn and that more than likely means I'll need new bearings, a new seal and axle as well as the new boot. If I can avoid messing with this until I have a time where I'm free of interruptions, so much the better. Is it normal for you guys to swap out pre-built axles or do you tend to try salvaging whatever possible? The real reason I ask is because I don't know anyone that has done this before.
Also reject any shaft that is not assembled correctly. As in the boot straps being misaligned or crooked.
I'll keep this in mind. :)
This link will show you the only solution for the rubbing while still being able to grease the lower ball joint, made by Scott Drake industries, a regular 90 degree fitting will kill the boot quickly: http://www.aapd.net/cmpdetail.aspx?ID=4005
This is cool. Thanks! :D
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline maximus7001

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2011, 05:01:52 PM »
I would not be worried about bearings unless you have an issue with them. They are quite expensive to replace. I just finished completely redoing a hub and it cost $100 for parts and about $135 for a machine shop to rebuild it. Although $10 of it was for the grease gun tube and I got the remainder for my grease gun.
1968 Javelin SST 290
1981 Concord DL sedan, vintage red metallic (now parts car)
1985 Eagle wagon, same colour as the concord (project car/daily driver)
1997 GMC Safari SLT AWD (full time 4x4) G-80 LSD

Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #6 on: August 24, 2011, 07:24:20 PM »
I would not be worried about bearings unless you have an issue with them. They are quite expensive to replace. I just finished completely redoing a hub and it cost $100 for parts and about $135 for a machine shop to rebuild it.
WHY would it cost you that much? I have no idea what I'm doing and even I believe you're doing it wrong. :(

My list has a pre-assembled half-shaft, an outer CV boot kit and an inner CV boot kit. More than likely something will happen to the other axle pretty soon if these really found a way to wear out on their own. I'm going to attempt to salvage the current axle as a possible replacement when that happens and ultimately replace it as a very last resort. I can't see myself spending more than $180 on axles, boots, tools, grease and other maintenance stuff before going to someone for rotation and alignment. I have too many spare parts around here anyway. There's sure to be something useful in my junk pile.
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline eaglefreek

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #7 on: August 24, 2011, 09:33:35 PM »
I've driven with a torn boot for a year without any problems. I finally replaced it because I got sick of all the grease slinging out. It's not too difficult to do. Air tools definitely make the job easier and I would recommend a small torch to heat the bolts that hold the half shaft to the axle flange. They typically have Loctite on them and can be a bear to loosen. I remember reading here about the boots tearing and someone noticed the number of pleats were different than the factory and that contribute to the premature tearing. The most important thing is torquing the axle nut properly so that the hub bearings don't fail.
1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear.
1981 AMC Eagle Wagon As Seen On TV  Lost In Transmission


 

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Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2011, 01:01:38 AM »
Oh God, today was a real trip. I got the wheel off, finally figured out how the caliper comes off after I told my grandfather he was stripping the bolt(Torx end means TORX END! -_-). 2x13mm bolts out so far, now the 3x12mm ones that come off...The one at the bottom is a bit difficult to get to without moving the arm that goes underneath the axle. I'll somehow remove that tomorrow morning but I can at least say they were firmly rusted shut like one would expect. :)

I know I already said I want to replace the axle but I also see the value in salvaging the one I intend to remove. I want to reboot it. Does anyone have anything to say about the Dorman 614003 boot? The only thing that worries me is the type of clamp used in the kit. I know the one on my currently torn boot has ears that get pressed inward but I don't have any special tools related to doing this. My grandfather is scared stupid about anything related to steering and brakes and thus knows nothing about this and has none of the tools to work on any of it. I have way too much courage to say no to something I don't know but there are various clamp styles for these boots and I kind of need to know what it is before getting it. Can anyone point out what should be painfully obvious? :/

Also, what is with these split-design boot kits? Really? Is it worth trying to cut corners by making an inferior seal and quickly ending up in the same situation(if not worse) at an even more inconvenient time? I just don't understand this. :/

Oh yeah, one more thing: I notice there are a ton of grommets in really nasty shape. Sway bar, ball joints, other areas I'm not able to identify yet...All have nasty rubber grommets. Is there an easy way around this? I kind of want to avoid buying several replacement kits if I can and these really need to be in far better shape than they are right now.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2011, 01:09:47 AM by DaemonForce »
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline mudkicker715

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #9 on: August 25, 2011, 04:16:28 AM »
To replace a half shaft you technically do not even need to remove the tire. So the caliper could have stayed.

Obviously you do not want a split boot.



Manitowoc WI

Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #10 on: August 25, 2011, 04:34:53 AM »
To replace a half shaft you technically do not even need to remove the tire. So the caliper could have stayed.
No it couldn't have. This is an Eagle: a constant work in progress. My progress with maintenance has been slower than most would deem favorable. In fact, it has been very very bad. Because of this, I have a lot more work to do than just replacing a simple CV boot and my assumptions as to the condition of everything around it has been far better than it really is. In short: It can't be trusted.

In just the steering area I see several pieces that are ready to fail any week and I can prevent this right now. Leaving the wheel on doesn't change the fact that it's true. Don't get me started on the rest of the car. I have a time and place to fix the rest of this but I prefer to take care of failing parts as I see them.
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline Whuntmore

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2011, 07:14:21 AM »
Some of us, me in particular, have had problems with remanufactured half shafts.  I had several with incorrect spline ends.  I have never had a problem with a new half shaft.

I didn't know you could get new half-shafts.  all I see here in reman shafts.

Offline Canoe

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #12 on: August 25, 2011, 07:27:34 AM »
I didn't know you could get new half-shafts.  all I see here in reman shafts.
Part No. NCV82001 November 15, 2010 $171.18 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_New-CV-Axle-Shaft-Assembly-GSP_20870611-P_945_R|GRP60007____

Offline Whuntmore

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #13 on: August 25, 2011, 07:50:07 AM »
Maybe I should re-word that:  Why can't I get new half-shafts here in Canada.  I go to a car parts supply store here, and all they offer is reman haft-shafts.

If the part is available, how come I can't get it HERE?

Offline Canoe

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #14 on: August 25, 2011, 08:29:04 AM »
Maybe I should re-word that:  Why can't I get new half-shafts here in Canada.  I go to a car parts supply store here, and all they offer is reman haft-shafts.
If the part is available, how come I can't get it HERE?
Go compare the population of Canada vs. the States.
I forget the exact numbers, but for a rad I believe it was one choice for ~$400 CAD. In the States, there were several choices. I got a premium 3-core for $263.
Alternators: one reman choice ~$230?, vs. several new choices for less (and as little as $60), including a 98 amp 12SI @3:00 with warranty I got for around $100.

Offline jim

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #15 on: August 25, 2011, 01:13:14 PM »
You might want to check with Advance Auto online.
I'm right 98% of the time, and I don't care about the other 3%.
"The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people;
that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed."
--Thomas Jefferson to John Cartwright, 1824. ME 16:45
What part of "shall not be infringed" do they not understand?
08 Impala
01 Yukon 4X4
(There's more to life than fuel mileage)
83 Eagle wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
88 Eagle white woody wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
86 wagon parts car
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Offline Jurjen

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #16 on: August 25, 2011, 01:27:57 PM »
Good answer Canoe. Mine would have been less "Zen".
Maybe it is time to get a real car mechanic involved, if he wants to go on his trip next week.
"sparrows fly in flocks, eagles fly alone"

Eagle Wagon Limited 1983, Citroen C-Crosser 2010, Triumph Bonneville 1969, Yamaha XJR1300 1999, Yamaha TX750 1973

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Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #17 on: August 25, 2011, 02:19:48 PM »
Changing the CV half-shaft does not require changing the wheel bearings and seals. I've changed half-shafts more times than I'd care to remember, and I've changed wheel bearings.
It appears the assembly comes off in very easy to manage pieces but the bearings look like a bear to change out! ::)
Some of the people posting here have been fixing Eagles since before you were born. Really. Think about that.
This part bothers me because of something that shouldn't be related. Why is it there are people older than I am that say they know what they're doing and then within 5 minutes of them wrenching around on it they've already stripped a bolt or done something that can't be fixed without a LOT of time and effort? This forum seems to be the only exception to the heck I have to put up with whenever I so much as even LOOK at the hood of my car and I guess you noticed how much this has worn me away. It shows, you noticed, so feel good about yourself.

I found this guide last night and it looks pretty solid to me. I'm going to follow through it to keep anything from going wrong.
Larger towns often have a CV reman place in town where they'll regrease and reboot a half-shaft while you wait and for low dollars. Under $30 here.
Thing is, I'm not in a larger town or I would have gone to such a place. Most shops are demanding over $280 because they charge $40/hr labor and want to replace the axle or something that doesn't really appear necessary to me. Then the manager will turn around and offer to buy the car from me. I'm sick of this crap. I'll do it myself.
Do they really need replacing or is this a show car?
Hah, I wish it were a show car. Then again I believe we all wish we could have our cars look like jewelry. For me that's never going to happen. I accept that. This is a car that I use all the time for very long commutes. My work is seasonal and full of very long hours, giving me next to no time for maintenance. It absolutely must be in top shape since there are also places I tend to go where I can't exactly afford to let it break down. I don't see any worn out metal here but every other grommet appears to be turning into a grainy sand when I touch them. This needs replacing. Now. I'll up a photo soon. :)
If you're willing to take on replacing a half-shaft, why on earth would you go to someone for an alignment, let alone rotation, both of which are orders of magnitude easier?
In short, peace. I would catch too much heck for it and I barely have the patience to do it because of this. Especially since most of the people in my family tend to think a warranty will magically keep something in great shape without any possible problem. Whenever I try something myself my family has to step in and say something to me that never helps anyone. Replacing/salvaging a half-shaft proved bad enough because of this issue. I'm starting to wonder if NAPA has CV boots. If I could get all of this done today it would make me so happy.
TSM Manual
I have a copy. Can't say the quality is something I like but it's better than nothing.
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline Whuntmore

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #18 on: August 25, 2011, 09:09:15 PM »
Maybe I should re-word that:  Why can't I get new half-shafts here in Canada.  I go to a car parts supply store here, and all they offer is reman haft-shafts.
If the part is available, how come I can't get it HERE?
Go compare the population of Canada vs. the States.
I forget the exact numbers, but for a rad I believe it was one choice for ~$400 CAD. In the States, there were several choices. I got a premium 3-core for $263.
Alternators: one reman choice ~$230?, vs. several new choices for less (and as little as $60), including a 98 amp 12SI @3:00 with warranty I got for around $100.


Nope, you're still missing the point:  I didn't say it was more expensive because of population, I said they don't offer it.  there's a difference.  If they make it 'somewhere', it should be available.   ::)

Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #19 on: August 25, 2011, 10:33:01 PM »
My grandfather is scared stupid because of the boot and clamps. I went to NAPA and ordered a new axle for it. Flat $66. With any luck I'll have this back on the road tomorrow afternoon. Portland has a few axles and for some reason Seattle has ONE left and so I'm going to go with that. I know there's a reason I hate sending anything through PDX and I just remembered it today...I bought something last week that went through Portland and as always it's delayed 3 days or more. They can never seem to get their stuff together. No wonder there's no sales tax. >.>'
I didn't say it was more expensive because of population, I said they don't offer it.  there's a difference.  If they make it 'somewhere', it should be available.   ::)
Welp, if a hammer won't fix it...>.>'

......

This is the reason I'm going with a new axle at this point. It's shiny and I still can't find anyone that offers a boot kit. Even though there's absolutely nothing wrong with the axle, everyone pushes for the new axle. After closer inspection I notice it's not a Dorman boot anyway. It's never been worked on since the day the car was manufactured so EMPI is more than likely going to be the brand that works with this. A simple $9 kit would fix this. Looks solid too. :-\
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline jim

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #20 on: August 25, 2011, 11:29:15 PM »
A new one should get you going for now and you can always deal with rebooting the old one later.
I'm right 98% of the time, and I don't care about the other 3%.
"The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people;
that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed."
--Thomas Jefferson to John Cartwright, 1824. ME 16:45
What part of "shall not be infringed" do they not understand?
08 Impala
01 Yukon 4X4
(There's more to life than fuel mileage)
83 Eagle wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
88 Eagle white woody wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
86 wagon parts car
Click for Little Rock, AR Forecast" border="0" height="100" width="150

Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #21 on: August 25, 2011, 11:39:38 PM »
Not if they want the old one this fast. I guess it's okay though. Everything else on the car is stock. It weirds me out to see AMC printed on the hub. At least the bearings are okay. Yay Timkin?
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline jim

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #22 on: August 25, 2011, 11:42:27 PM »
If they want the old one you must be getting a remanufactured one.  There is no core deposit on new ones, at least any where I have ever been.
I'm right 98% of the time, and I don't care about the other 3%.
"The constitutions of most of our States assert that all power is inherent in the people;
that... it is their right and duty to be at all times armed."
--Thomas Jefferson to John Cartwright, 1824. ME 16:45
What part of "shall not be infringed" do they not understand?
08 Impala
01 Yukon 4X4
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83 Eagle wagon; shared responsibility as daily driver
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Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #23 on: August 25, 2011, 11:53:50 PM »
Yeah I thought about waiting on new boots but I've had jackstands under my car for two straight days now. New shaft or not, this ends tomorrow. I'm fine with a remanufactured axle. It's not going to hurt the car any.
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline Canoe

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #24 on: August 26, 2011, 12:39:39 AM »
Maybe I should re-word that:  Why can't I get new half-shafts here in Canada.  I go to a car parts supply store here, and all they offer is reman haft-shafts.
If the part is available, how come I can't get it HERE?
Go compare the population of Canada vs. the States.
I forget the exact numbers, but for a rad I believe it was one choice for ~$400 CAD. In the States, there were several choices. I got a premium 3-core for $263.
Alternators: one reman choice ~$230?, vs. several new choices for less (and as little as $60), including a 98 amp 12SI @3:00 with warranty I got for around $100.
Nope, you're still missing the point:  I didn't say it was more expensive because of population, I said they don't offer it.  there's a difference.  If they make it 'somewhere', it should be available.   ::)
I get your point. My point is: importing and keeping inventory costs. If there aren't enough sales to support it, it doesn't happen. Not enough population = not enough sales.
Ordering from the States, more choices and usually lower cost.
And with the many odd hobbies I have, availability of items I just can't get here.

Offline mudkicker715

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #25 on: August 26, 2011, 02:52:58 AM »
Maybe I should re-word that:  Why can't I get new half-shafts here in Canada.  I go to a car parts supply store here, and all they offer is reman haft-shafts.
If the part is available, how come I can't get it HERE?
Go compare the population of Canada vs. the States.
I forget the exact numbers, but for a rad I believe it was one choice for ~$400 CAD. In the States, there were several choices. I got a premium 3-core for $263.
Alternators: one reman choice ~$230?, vs. several new choices for less (and as little as $60), including a 98 amp 12SI @3:00 with warranty I got for around $100.

Sorry to here that. Wait did I just purposely hijack a thread for no apparent good reason?



Manitowoc WI

Offline mudkicker715

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #26 on: August 26, 2011, 02:55:48 AM »
Yeah I thought about waiting on new boots but I've had jackstands under my car for two straight days now. New shaft or not, this ends tomorrow. I'm fine with a remanufactured axle. It's not going to hurt the car any.

I will be waiting for well I forget.



Manitowoc WI

Offline DaemonForce

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #27 on: August 26, 2011, 02:57:46 AM »
I'm starting to believe I overthought about what I would have to do and this made things far more difficult than it needed to be. :/
1983 Limited
AMC 258C {R2:27.Jun.13}
Carter 2681 {R2:28.Oct.12}
TorqueFlite A998 {R6: -20.Apr.12}
NP129 {R2:28.Apr.12}
M35-273 {???}
Compression: 0
Corrected Idle: 0RPM

Rebuild:
???

Offline Artmodels

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #28 on: January 31, 2023, 11:22:32 AM »
Need help, passenger half shaft fell out of the inner housing.

Just now was pulling into my driv!way over a snow berm where the front wheels went up and down quite a bit, then heard a grinding noise, look under the car only to see that the front passenger half shaft completely popped out of the inner housing(the one connected to the differential.)

The car has a 2" lift, so I can imagine that pulls the half shafts a little more out of the end housings.  The half shaft is a brand new shaft that i just replaced, probably less than 500 miles on it.

With a 2" lift, does the shaft length need to be longer as well?  Is there a different ahaft length that needs to he bought?  Or did the old shaft perhaps have a spacer on it to compensate?

If anyone has had similar experience, or has advice/instructions on what to do?  Should I just get another factory spec original replacement shaft? (autozone says it will replace via covered part warranty). Or is there a length chart whoch shows what the shaft should be?

Any advice is appreciated! Thanks!

Online Trooper

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #29 on: January 31, 2023, 12:01:10 PM »
Apparently half shafts from a Chevy S10 from the same era are a direct bolt on but they are 3/8" longer.

Offline AMC of Houston

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #30 on: January 31, 2023, 05:22:53 PM »
Sounds like you got an aftermarket shaft - most of which use an inner joint case that is much shorter than the OEM -- so the inner joint pops out when the suspension travel goes a bit too far.  Have a pic of the inner joint?
George G.
'81 Eagle Sundancer
'85 Eagle Waggie
1960 1902 Rambler Replica
'64 American
'70 AMX (Big Bad Blue), '70 AMX (White)
'77 Gremlin
'78 Pacer Coupe, '78 Pacer Wagon
'79 Pacer Wagon
'73 Jensen Interceptor
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'98 Aston Martin DB7
'09 Nissan Titan
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Offline Artmodels

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #31 on: January 31, 2023, 06:41:05 PM »
Well, update to the saga.......

While under the front axle looking at it, I noticed that the front driveshaft was not parallel, and was touching the exhaust pipe now with a new shiny polish circling the driveahaft where touching(driveshaft looks to be about 3/4" off center on front end, which explains why it is now moved out to drivers side to touch exhaust pipe.. 

Also, cv boot on the inboard side of drivers side cv joint so only about an inch thick with all the ribbed rings touching each other, and the actual boot small end ringclip is actually just inside of the edge of the inner bearing carrier hub, almost inline with the large side boot clip ring is.
As for the passenger side cv joint, the now visible passenger side inner shaft triple bearing is actually sticking about a 1/4" out past end of inner carrier hub.

The previous owner who raised the eagle looks like they did a proper job by putting 1 inch tall, 3/4" diameter steel pipe pieces as spacers and longer bolts on the drivers side axle mount between axle top above the diff.  Then they put 1 inch extender tabs/flanges on the passenger side between diff tube and engine mount arm, with now 4 bolt places, instead of 2(if the axle casting were to be up against engine flange mount casting.

So the length of the cv should be ok(no need to have longer aftermarket shafts) as the diff housing has also been lowered 1 inch. 

Now, I just picked up the car from the repair shop after they had to take the engne out to replace leaking rear oil seal.  Within a few blocks in 4wd(as roads are snowy) the passenger cv bearing side popped out of the inner hub housing and started banging around.  Luckily I was already only driving 5mph, so no suspension damage, whew!

I am thinking that when they put the engine back in, they hooked up the  diff to engine mount parts wrong/inside out/backwards?

The main tell is that the front driveshaft has now started touching the exhaust pipe, angling about 3/4" to the drivers side.  Then, the spacers which join the passenger side axle mount to the engine mount also are angling down to the drivers side about 3/4" off vertical, as I think I remember seeing them vertical, when I last noticed a month ago. The drivers side 1" spacers between the upper plate and differential are also leaning a tiny bit, prob less than 1/8" from vertical down towards drivers side(over the 1" extended lengthpipe.

So this makes me suspect that if that diff axle were to shift back 3/4" to the passenger side, everything will be back to normal.

There is a thick steel rod that connects the passenger side of diff/axle back to a bolt on the tranny which is one bolt below and about 1 inch lower and about 3/4" inboard of the lower starter/tranny bolt.  It has two possible ways to mount, because of the 90 degree bent bolt end flange that mounts to tranny housing.  That is mounted correctly, as the pipe goes to the outboard of the 90 degree bend on the tranny housing.

So, I am guessing that the drivers side axle-to-engine mount flange was put on backqards? Is that even possible?  Or did the mounts possibly get bent, and they will have to be bent back towards passenger side?

Or is there sething else needing to be adjusted so you can shift the axle a little towards the passenger side?  I can't find pics of how the flanges should be, anyone with info is most appreciated.  Also I noticed the fat motor mount now is on the passenger side between engine and frame, and the thinner motor mount is on drivers side.  Did they put these on backwards too? Because if the thin motor mount is swapped sides, that would definitely shift the whole engine/axle assembly to the passenger side by about 1/2". Rhat would mot fix the driveshaft rubbing the exhaust, but perhaps doing that, as well as shifting axle in relation to motor would do the trick?

Appreciate in advance all you guys' knowledge base to try to figure this out.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2023, 06:51:12 PM by Artmodels »

Offline AMC of Houston

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #32 on: January 31, 2023, 08:32:25 PM »
Can I assume your car is a 6-cyl??    I can go out and take some pics of my diff and engine mount claptrap -- its still all stock tho.  Car just happens to be parked on my lift.    If yours is a 6-banger, I'm surprised they removed the engine to do the rear main - seems a lot of extra work over doing it in the car.
George G.
'81 Eagle Sundancer
'85 Eagle Waggie
1960 1902 Rambler Replica
'64 American
'70 AMX (Big Bad Blue), '70 AMX (White)
'77 Gremlin
'78 Pacer Coupe, '78 Pacer Wagon
'79 Pacer Wagon
'73 Jensen Interceptor
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo
'98 Aston Martin DB7
'09 Nissan Titan
'10 Nissan Maxima

Offline Artmodels

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #33 on: February 01, 2023, 09:09:50 AM »
Yes, It's a 6 cylinder.  I told them they could just raise engine to remove oil pan, but they had issues trying to get pan off, so they ended up just taking engine out.

Offline AMC of Houston

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #34 on: February 01, 2023, 06:35:41 PM »
Ahh; they missed a step.  You also unbolt and lower the crossmember a bit for pan clearance.
George G.
'81 Eagle Sundancer
'85 Eagle Waggie
1960 1902 Rambler Replica
'64 American
'70 AMX (Big Bad Blue), '70 AMX (White)
'77 Gremlin
'78 Pacer Coupe, '78 Pacer Wagon
'79 Pacer Wagon
'73 Jensen Interceptor
'86 Audi 5000 Turbo
'98 Aston Martin DB7
'09 Nissan Titan
'10 Nissan Maxima

Offline Artmodels

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #35 on: February 02, 2023, 10:54:54 AM »
Update, I measured the difference between the lengths from axle/carrier hub interface out to the outer lower suspension bolt under the ball joint.  The drivers side was 11.5" and passenger side 14.1".  So the axle definitely needs to be moved over 1.25" towards passenger side to be equal .

Does anyone know how far in the triple ball joint sits into the inner carrier hub when car is sitting normally on ground?  Want to make sure both cv axles have their ball joints far enough into the carrier hubs.  It seems that even if I center the axle, those ball joints will he out at the outside edge of the carrier hubs.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2023, 10:58:43 AM by Artmodels »

Offline djm3452004

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Re: Swapping new half-shaft assembly?
« Reply #36 on: February 02, 2023, 07:46:56 PM »
This problem stumps me.  The front axle/differential side-to-side location is set exactly by the (2) 7/16" diameter bolts that secure through a bracket that bolts directly to the engine block  (see attached photo).  There is really no way the axle (and by association the CVs) can move 1.25" in either direction, provided the axle/differential is bolted to its mounting brackets like it should be.

If you look into your driver's wheel well and see anything other than what I've pictured in the attachment, you've got some serious weirdness going on.

Perhaps a photo could help us diagnose?

Hope this helps --

David
Current Project: 1983 Eagle Wagon 258
Past AMC Project(s):  1979 Spirit Liftback 232
                                1968 Ambassador 287

 

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