News: Putting FUN and FRIENDLINESS, FIRST into owning and learning about AMC small bodied cars, primarily Eagles, Spirits and Concords as well as vehicles built in AMC's Mexican subsidiary, VAM.

The AMC Eaglepedia can now be accessed using the buttons found below  This is a comprehensive ever growing archive of information, tips, diagrams, manuals, etc. for the AMC Eagle and other small bodied AMC cars. 

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Welcome to the AMC Eagles Nest.  A new site under "old" management -- so welcome to your new home for everything related to AMC Eagles, Spirits and Concords along with opportunities to interact with other AMC'ers.  This site will soon be evolving to look different than it has and we will be incorporating new features we hope you will find useful, entertaining and expand your AMC horizons.

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  • December 04, 2023, 03:08:12 PM

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Recent Posts

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Altered Eagles / Re: Raising my Eagle
« Last post by TheBirdman on Yesterday at 09:57:59 PM »
Bit of a zombie thread, but Im gonna do it since its open and pinned
So bit of condensed background, Ive got an 83 eagle wagon with a 80 non-disco front axle center section, v8 javelin coil springs, a 93 XJ 4.0, with a 99 XJ AW4, NP242, and Dana 35 rear. Ive raised the front 2" with 1" spring spacers and the rear with blocks.
Anyways Ive never had a problem with the CV joints popping out, in fact my problem is kinda the opposite, they bind up. At the level things are at going down the road, its fine, but if I hit a sizable pothole or go over a railroad crossing, and the front suspension unloads much at all, I can feel the steering wheel shudder badly from the CV axles either bottoming out in their cups, or maxing out their angle, I cant be sure, at 3x wheel speed of course. I am using aftermarket CV axles, and having compared them to OEM ones, they are shorter, but I tried putting an OEM one in, and the problem was actually far worse. With the car jacked up and suspension completely unloaded, I couldnt turn the front wheels at all, even with a breaker bar.
So, since Im taking the front center section out to re-gear it anyway, I thought Id give a shot at lowering it a bit to make the CVs happier. What do you think would be a good amount, 1"? 2"?

Also, does anyone know what part is supposed to limit the downward travel of the front wheels? right now I think its my swaybar hitting the frame horn (pictured). Is it possible that somewhere in my various parts replacing, my front suspension is traveling downward further than it should be?

Or maybe the v8 javelin springs with the 1" spacer is just too much for practical use, and I should just go down to the 1/2" spacer, I dunno, I like how it looks at this height. Could someone else with a 2" lifted eagle that works alright measure the height from the ground to front bumper or something? I never really had a good baseline to go off of for my lift, as the original spring was worn out and snapped.
SOLD / Re: Passenger's side hatch hinge Eagle wagon - GOT IT
« Last post by Still Pat on Yesterday at 09:18:15 AM »
Okay, THIS time I DID get one, not in my hot little hand, but actually INSTALLED on the Eagle!! Admin. you can delete it for good this time!
The Engine / Re: 1980 258 valve cover
« Last post by vangremlin on November 30, 2023, 04:27:52 PM »
Yes, it's my understanding that all 1980 engines had the metal valve cover, but it is not compatible with later models. 
The Engine / Re: 1980 258 valve cover
« Last post by Artmodels on November 30, 2023, 10:25:53 AM »
Ibcollect 1960 ramblers with the same engine except with the integrated intake exhaust manifold head.  If memory serves me correct, there is the valve cover bolt attachment that can be put on the newer engine valvetrain, and it might work.
The Engine / Re: 1980 258 valve cover
« Last post by maddog on November 29, 2023, 09:16:06 PM »
I have a 1980 Eagle that I am putting a stroker motor in and it came from the factory with a metal valve cover (I know for a fact that it did because I've had the car since 06) and it's my understanding that all 1980 Eagles had a metal valve cover.
The Engine / 1980 258 valve cover
« Last post by Okhuman on November 29, 2023, 05:49:39 PM »
Hey yall
I'm looking to keep oil inside my engine and the crud out.  I've the plastic valve cover.  I've been doing research and as best I can tell there are no aftermarket options for the years prior to 1981.  Is that correct?  It seems odd that there would be so many options for 81-87 but nothing before or after those years. 
Thanks for sharing your experiences.   I've gotten lots of great tips off this forum
4X4 and Driveline / Re: Looking for np128 to replace np129
« Last post by acct21 on November 24, 2023, 11:39:53 AM »
Reviving an old thread, but for any of the New Process VC cases of the era (119/129/219/229), as long as the VC failure doesn't result in pieces of the coupler shell damaging other parts of the case, the VC can be removed and replaced with the open differential inside of the VC itself.  Once the large snap ring is removed, the shell comes apart and the differential can be removed from the core. 

Once the side and rear output shafts are reassembed with the open differential, the case can be resealed, and it is now a 118/128/218/228 -- exactly as they came from the factory.  You lose the limited slip function, but gain the confidence that the VC isn't going to fly apart and detonate your case.

Tried posting pictures, but the spam blocker won't allow it?
AMC Friendly Shops/Vendors / Re: Links to AMC vendors
« Last post by vangremlin on November 21, 2023, 11:36:34 PM »
AMC Acres, located in Colorado. Bought out Galvin’s AMC Parts when Galvin wanted to get out of the business. The owner Austin is a really nice guy and is very passionate about AMC’s.
Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Tie Rod Boots
« Last post by vangremlin on November 21, 2023, 11:31:32 PM »
You may also want to check out this website for AMC Acres. This guy bought out Galvin’s AMC parts and moved all the inventory to his place in Colorado. Really nice guy and super passionate about AMC’s.
Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires / Re: Tie Rod Boots
« Last post by MIPS on November 20, 2023, 09:30:09 PM »
Deliberately put a Dorman on for now.

No rust yet is forming on the surfaces and the rest of the dirt was forced out with a few good pumps of fresh grease. Threads look good BTW. The only reason I mention this is because when I went to tighten the crown nut back on it tightened to a point, then let go and is stuck spinning on the arm so my money is on the threads just stripped out of the crown because I sure wasn't reefing on the wrench. It better not be the arm itself eating its threads...

Put a few more shots of grease in just to fill the cup.

Ultra-Power used a boot marked "E301226". that is not a part I can locate separately, but I am getting hits with other tie rod ends.
The old boot has an upper diameter of 14mm and a base diameter of 32mm. Hard to tell the height because they are compressed when installed but lets say 20mm. So lets say they are 14-32-20. I can get them in 13-30-23 which should be okay and 14-35-24 which is a little large at the base. Grab a set of the 13's and see how they fit when they come in, also buy a new crown nut and get ready to swear as I try and remove the old one.
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