Recent posts

#1

The Engine / Re: Exhaust Smoke On Start-Up

Last post by 89 MJ - Today at 08:40:57 AM

If you hold the engine at part throttle and then dribble tiny amounts of automatic transmission fluid or water down the carb, those will be the best way that I've heard of to free up the rings and clean out the engine.

#2

Eagle Archives / Re: Winches for the Eagle

Last post by 89 MJ - Today at 08:38:41 AM

I have seen that. I'd love to find either style.

#3

The Engine / Exhaust Smoke On Start-Up

Last post by PNWingnut - Yesterday at 06:01:34 PM

I've got a 1984 Eagle wagon that I purchased a bit over a year ago and has an issue with the engine smoking when starting from cold. When starting up the car from cold it runs pretty rough and sounds like it isn't firing on all 6 cylinders. I have to give it gas for a minute or two before it will idle normally, all the while blowing out oil-smelling smoke. It leaves an oil stain on the ground where the exhaust comes out. Once the engine is warm, it's fine. Starting the car again after stopping for errands, it's fine.

I'm quite confident the issue is not related to the cylinder head. I had the head worked on not too long after getting it. They resurfaced it, re-ground the valves, replaced several valves, and replaced all the seals. The issue remained the same after that work. I've also replaced the head gasket and replaced the plastic valve cover with a metal one. I've also checked the compression a couple times and it is (to my understanding) normal, between 150 and 170, which has me scratching my head. I took a peek, inside when getting work on the head done and the cylinder walls did not look bad, but I didn't do anything more than that. There was a decent amount of carbon build up on the pistons, but not too surprising with the issues I'm having.

My current thinking is that the head needed work and oil got in which caused carbon buildup which caused the rings to get stuck which is now causing the issue even with the head re-machined. I recently put Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the cylinders, let it sit for a couple days (turning the engine every so often), then once it drained through I planned to drive the #$*& out of it to try and break down the (supposed) carbon build up, free my rings, and get this issue solved. Currently, the car is in the shop getting steering and suspension parts replaced, so I haven't driven it much since putting the MMO in.

For those more experienced than I, does my thinking sound correct? Am I missing something or wasting my time? Should I just tear down the engine and see the rings for myself? I will be moving in August and want to have this issue fixed before then, so I only have so long to get this figured out. If it is relevant, the emissions stuff was removed by a previous owner.

Thank you very much,
Blake.

#4

Eagle Archives / Winches for the Eagle

Last post by EagleSX4_5Speed - Yesterday at 01:21:09 PM

Has anyone else seen this article on Motortrend? Aparently both Ramsey and Super winch made kits to put a 3000lb winch on a Eagle

https://www.motortrend.com/features/amc-eagle-bumper-winch-install

#5

Hatchlings / Re: 83 AMC Eagle return fuel c...

Last post by AMC of Houston - May 18, 2025, 12:51:22 PM

Also a problem with some aftermarket fuel filters for our Eagles.  That little 1/4" line out (the one that should be at the 12 o-clock position to let vapor escape) is supposed to have an orifice built into it.  Some don't.  Peek into it and you'll see it if its there.  The Wix units I use all seem to have them - so far, at least until some bean counter decides they aren't needed!

#6

Hatchlings / Re: 83 AMC Eagle return fuel c...

Last post by The OLD Man - May 17, 2025, 05:55:44 PM

This prevents Vapor Lock on hot days. Car wont start. Low PSI return 0.4 crack pressure one way to tank. This prevents any return. The cheap valves on Amazon are too high of a crack pressure, meaning opening the valve. The original one hidden inside of rubber fuel line was typically thrown away because a lot of people could not see it as it was hidden. I believe the original one was a 1/2 psi return crack pressure opening. I'm not a expert but this is what I got from looking into it.

#7

Transmission Shop / Re: Lockup Slip Second Opinion

Last post by 89 MJ - May 16, 2025, 12:21:42 AM

Sure beats needing a transmission though!

#8

Question and Answer / Re: 4.0 flexplate

Last post by maddog - May 15, 2025, 10:22:04 PM

Don't forget that the cross member is different between auto and manual.

Yeah I haven't forgotten about that and unfortunately I can't find a manual cross member anywhere. The Eagle I got the pedal assembly out of didn't have the transmission in it and I'm guessing the yard left the cross member on it when they pulled it.

#9

Question and Answer / Re: 4.0 flexplate

Last post by mudkicker715 - May 15, 2025, 09:39:36 PM

Don't forget that the cross member is different between auto and manual.

#10

Question and Answer / Re: 4.0 flexplate

Last post by maddog - May 15, 2025, 07:56:24 PM

So I just did some looking online, as well as measuring both my automatic and the ax15, and it looks like the ax15 is about an inch and a half longer than the automatic.