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  • October 20, 2021, 09:45:50 AM

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Recent Posts

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1
I have seen steal lines fail but it's always been when they're severely covered in rust and the cars they were on came from somewhere that uses a lot of salt on the roads in the winter. If you don't see any really rusty areas or even any rust per se you should be fine also you can pick up uunbent brake line at parts stores (it comes in various lengths and sizes) and a small tubing bender for not a lot of money and make your own you can also get the flaring tool there as well.
3
I use good old Swepco 101 in my CV's, U-joints, ball joints, etc.
4
I would inspect the lines and see if there are any obvious issues.  My Kammback had been sitting for about 16 years when I got it, got the engine running and replaced the typical brake stuff but didn't mess with the steel lines.

Remember, before about 67/68 most cars, including Mustangs, came with a single reservoir master cylinder.  If a line failed anywhere, all the brakes were lost.  The Eagles have dual res master cylinders, so if a line fails, you'll still have half the brake system working. 
5
Can anyone provide a diagram for the brake pedal assembly for an Eagle with Manual Trans? I have one for Auto Trans in the TSM but something isn't quite adding up and the diagram would be very helpful. I've attached the page I have for reference.
6
I was going to replace them in an abundance of caution, but I'm wondering whether I'm just being overly paranoid. I've never heard of a steel line failing, but a buddy of mine swears he knows a guy who knows a guy who stuck a 60s mustang into a guardrail because a steel brake line ruptured while hard braking.

What are your thoughts vangremlin? Would you worry about changing these lines out?
7
Axle / Differential / Re: Spiders, driveshafts: modern Best Practices, grease?
« Last post by Canoe on Yesterday at 04:19:13 PM »
Of course I had to google Red N Tacky.

People are reporting that while RnT is really great, it doesn't stand up to water very well. Others say it's doing fine as wheel bearing grease on their boat trailers, coming stock with that grease, never had a need to change.
Reports of RnT bleeding out of the grease gun over time in heat (some report short time, some report long time). Some are saying that bleed is a sign of a poor "oil separation spec", lose some of the oil, so it won't be there in the grease doing its job. Water wash out "< 6 %", oil separation "Max 6 %".

To get around those issues, most recommendations are for "Lucas HD Green", more properly Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty Grease. They say it doesn't bleed, lasts longer (good for "irregular maintaince"), and lasts longer when at higher temps. Drop point 500 vs RnT's 540. Recommended for "lubricant in steering systems, high-speed bearings, U-joints, and any other mechanical joint."
Water wash out max 10 %, oil separation max 5 %.

Water specs don't seem to match their reputations.


Another one that turns up in recomendations over RnT is Mystik JT-6 High Temp #2 (lithium-complex grease). Smooth, adhesive.
Good for shock loads. "High Timken OK Load. ... Approved for: Dana Corporation, Spicer Universal/Joint Division."
Drop point: #1 500, #2 550.
Water wash out: #1 9.4 %, #2 2.5 %.
Oil seperation: #1 2 %, #2 1 %.
"JT-6 Hi-Temp No. 1 developed for applications where service conditions dictate a grease of softer consistency."

Interesting that RnT gets recommended over Xtra HD for "slip yokes". I can't tell if this is true or people are just parroting what they've seen around the web.

One caution is to NOT mix Lucas red with Lucas green; red is a lithium complex grease, green is polyurea grease. Switching between them requires a clean out first. Where the factory grease is lithium, you can use the red without thoroughly cleaning. Pain in an application where you don't know what was used...
8
Axle / Differential / Re: Spiders, driveshafts: modern Best Practices, grease?
« Last post by Canoe on Yesterday at 02:27:17 PM »
Red & Tacky sounds like an interesting product. Thanks!

Google decided I needed to see this. Wow!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMmSQSjraSE&t=295s
9
Axle / Differential / Re: Front differential/axle removal
« Last post by Canoe on Yesterday at 02:25:49 PM »
Probably not scammed -- we only scammed the Renault owners back then!!
A friend had one of those Renaults back then. For reasons unknown, after buying it he left it over winter in a farmer's field he used as storage. He got me to drive him to pick it up and get it home. Wouldn't start. But the starter turned over great on the battery he brought. He drove it home, ~25 miles, on the starter...
10
I would think the steel lines for the front would be the same.  I'm guessing the line to the rear would not, but maybe you could start with that one and modify it on your own to make it fit. 

Good luck, let us know what you decide!
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