Dead Eagle

[Kinser94]

The post with he red and yellow wires coming off it, is the one I'm referring to

[eaglefreek]

The post with he red and yellow wires coming off it, is the one I'm referring to

That should be the "I" terminal and with the key in the off or run position, there should be no voltage. When in the start position(turning all the way to power starter), it should have 12+v coming out. Check to see if there is an "I"on the solenoid next to the post. Sometimes the aftermarket ones are reversed. The other one is the "S" terminal and should only get 12v fed to it when the key is turned to the start position.
The "I" terminal feeds full battery voltage to the coil for easier starting and then when the key goes into the run position, lower voltage is then fed to the coil through the oil pressure sensor and then through a resistor wire.

[carnuck]

The "I" terminal doesn't have power of it's own but the wire to it has ignition power when the key is on.

[Kinser94]

I is the lower solenoid in the picture that I have and the little post to the left in hat picture is the one I was talking about, I have added 3 grounds now and replaced the neutral safety switch gone through all the engine siring harness and have tested and traced every wire and they are all good, except I did try taking a jumper wire from the battery and pu it to the positive terminal on the ignition coil and when I did that my dash lights came on but everything keeps pointing to the starter solenoid being bad even though it is brand new and has been replaced for a 4th time now because it isn't getting enough volts to the ignition terminal on it, but if someone could post a picture of what the fusible link would look like that would be helpful, I have tested everything that even remotely looks like a fusible link and they are all good

[Nightpath]

ProTip :

A battery can still show proper voltage and be bad. They have cells in them, if one blows open then the battery becomes unserviceable. It can show proper voltage all day long, but the current needed isn't there.

Car lights come on, it'll show strong voltage...you're scratching your head thinking wtf is wrong? What gremlin took a deuce in my electrical?

Before wishing for a unicorn horn to touch and heal it, go snag another battery and pop it in. Dollars to donuts that this will solve it.

Happened to me twice, and a friend just 2 weeks ago in his new Nissan pickup. He argued with me right up until we got to Canadian Tire and have the battery tested. Said there should be a bulge, or acid coming out of the top, or some sign. Nope, battery looked new.

[Kinser94]

Thanks for that advice, but the battery is the first thing I tested because I work at autozone I know the basics to check an I put on new cables, tested my neutral safety switch using the instructions in my chilton repair manual, we finally go it to turn over this morning by jumping the 2 big posts on the solenoid and two screwdrivers but we also noticed, that's coil isn't sparking, I tested it with ohms and it was within specs. I don't remember if I already mentioned this but I added 2 new grounds and still nothing

[Mernsy]

Did you test to make sure you have voltage at the coil while cranking and/or with the key in the run position?

[Kinser94]

Well I finally figured it out , one was a blown fusible link and the other was my neutral safety switch went out as well just thought you guys would like to know. I fired her up last night and tomorrow I'll finish swapping the front axle and transfer case