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Lifter\Camshaft Issues

Started by win32exe, April 13, 2024, 11:06:46 AM

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win32exe

Hi Team, My SX/4 had been recently been making a slight tapping sound and i figured it was the lifters getting tired and had planned on swapping them out soon, then driving on the highway recently this happened, (see picture) she started popping\knocking out of the carb, the #6 exhaust valve was not opening anymore, limped it off the highway and towed her home, took it apart and found the one bad lifter.


so i have a few questions...

How does the lifter get worn like that? the pushrod isn't bent, the lifter came out as easy as the rest, it wasn't stuck in the block, could it be a stuck valve, the valve looks good to the eye, seats flat, no visual bending.

Does that mean the camshaft definitely needs to be replaced?

If so what else should i do, new timing chain and gears? pushrods? rocker arms? Are these used OE parts on the engine better than replacements?

why do all the parts needs to go back to the exact position, pushrods, rockers, lifters in relation to replacing all the lifters or pushrods and\or rockers etc, none of the parts will be in the original positions, lets say two pushrods are bent, would we replace the whole set? i understand if the old parts are going back in then put them in the original position.

Head and pistons don't look too bad, but should i just drop a reman 4.0 Liter in?

I feel like i am at a crossroads

Any input is appreciated.

Henry

1983 Eagle SX/4
1967 Plymouth Belvedere II

89 MJ

I'm actually in a similar boat with my car, but I haven't had any failures yet. For what it's worth, here is my plan: new cam, lifters, timing set, and a 4.0 head.

To see if a valve is stuck, you should be able to push on the valve end of the rocker arm or tap it with a rubber mallet. If it doesn't move and sounds solid, it's stuck. If it moves and sounds kind of hollow almost, the valve is still functioning as intended.
1986 Eagle: 258, Auto, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 3.54 gears
1989 Jeep Comanche: 4.0, AX-15, 8.8 rear, 4.10 gears
1940 Chevy PU: 350, 700R4

win32exe

thank you for the input, why the 4.0 head?

Henry
1983 Eagle SX/4
1967 Plymouth Belvedere II

89 MJ

Quote from: win32exe on April 14, 2024, 09:27:58 AM
thank you for the input, why the 4.0 head?

Henry

The 4.0 head flows better and I think it might have larger valves. I've read that it's good for 35-40hp, but it can be tricky to get the intake manifold to work.
1986 Eagle: 258, Auto, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 3.54 gears
1989 Jeep Comanche: 4.0, AX-15, 8.8 rear, 4.10 gears
1940 Chevy PU: 350, 700R4

MIPS

Is that rust on the head of the lifter?

vangremlin

Quote from: 89 MJ on April 14, 2024, 12:57:45 PM

The 4.0 head flows better and I think it might have larger valves. I've read that it's good for 35-40hp, but it can be tricky to get the intake manifold to work.

I had a 4.0 head installed on my Kammback, along with a new cam and the Cherokee 4.0 header style exhaust manifold.  From what I recall, mounting the intake manifold wasn't a big problem, but he had to kind of rig up something to mount the power steering pump.  It does provide better performance. 
1981 Kammback 258 - "Pepe"
1980 Coupe 258 - "Ginger
1972 Gremlin X 304
1978 Gremlin 4 cyl 121 - sold
1964 TBird 390 - sold

MIPS

#6
The more I look at that lifter and the one sitting on my desk as a paperweight, I think what happened was the engine sat for a period with humidity in the crankcase and rust developed on the lifters. They should normally rotate while in service and looking at the galling they stopped several times and finally stopped spinning entirely and just started wearing down the lifter until it wore straight through.
I'd be concerned about how much of the filter collected the metal debris.

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