AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Transmission Shop => Topic started by: IowaEagle on May 09, 2004, 09:48:05 AM
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Its real simple: All 6 cylinder Eagles used the Chrysler designed AMC configured 4WD version of the TF 998 and 4 cylinder Eagles used the AMC configured 4WD version of the TF 904 -- though the jury is still out on the 4 cylinder cars as some have been found with TF 998's (many 4 cylinder cars came with manual transmissions).
Six cylinder Eagles also incorporated a lock up torque converter from 1980 thru 1984.
The only direct fit auto for the Eagle is the AMC 4WD TF998 or 4WD TF904.
Other applications which can be installed and will require minimum of modifcations are the AMC confingured 4WD TF 727 or TF 999 from a Jeep.
A Jeep AW4 from behind a 4.0 will bolt up to your 4.2 but it too will require some modifcations. Such as to the floor pan and drive shafts.
Other AMC autos can be used, but require replacing the output shaft and some other mods and then installing the 4WD adapter. YOU CANNOT PUT THE CHRYSLER VERSION IN YOUR EAGLE -- DIFFERENT BELL HOUSING. YOU MUST USE THE AMC CASE. The internals exchange easily, but the exterior, again, is AMC only.
The AMC TF 998 was only used behind the 258 only in the Eagle but was used in, in its 2WD version, behind many AMC V8's in cars starting from '72 except that some HD applications which got the TF-727. All other 258s in 2WD cars got the TF-904.
The 998, as compared to the 904, has a larger front servo, 4 pinion planetaries and a double warp rear band. This was the original lock up converter tranny. It can be indentified from the 904 by the two external ribs on the case above the rear servo.
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The 727 from a Full-Size Jeep with 258 works fine in an Eagle as well. I swapped one in cuz the Jeep was wrecked anyhow and the 998 in my SX/4 was toasted (DON'T FORGET TO ADJUST YOUR BANDS, SOMETIMES, UNLESS YOU LIKE ALUMINUM AND STEEL SHAVINGS). No modifications necessary except the filler/dipstick needed some adjustment to clear the firewall (actually, the 998 tube fits, just a tad loose for my taste - but a new grommet would help that out). Makes for a slightly more truck-like ride, as the 1st gear is not as low so it takes away some off-the-line. But, even though it's bigger, it fits fine.
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Thanks for the info on the 727 being a no-brainer -- if the dip stick issue is the only difference I would call that a "bolt in". I have corrected the orginal post to reflect this. Do you have the years that work for this application?
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Hi all, I'm fairly new here. I just bought an '83 AMC Eagle (Burgandy 4 door Sedan) , but the trany is cooked badly (nothing else wrong with the car).
> All Eagles used the Chrysler designed TF 998
> All other 258s in cars got the TF-904
I just want to be sure I read the first message correctly - a freind of mine has two AMC Spirit's, one of which is a parts car with a good tranny. I was hoping I could pull the tranny out and simply bolt the transfer case on and bolt that into my Eagle. But if I read the first message in the thread correctly, I take it the Spirit has the TF-904 tranny - correct?
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Yup -- the Spirit would be the 904. It will work, and I probably should mention that above, but it is a light duty transmission -- the reason the 727 was mentioned is because it is a heavier duty trans. If your core is still good I would really recommend getting it rebuilt by a reputable tranny shop.
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Yes, that would be the best thing to do. What the problem I'm having is 3rd gear and reverse don't work. But the case is in very good shape, and the fluid is a nice red color. Maybe it's just a simple band adjustment that needs to be done (crosses fingers), but I know nothing of the Torque Flyte trany's or how they work (I'm finding information slowly, and awating on getting a copy of the AMC service man). I'm fearing the worst. But first and second gear work great with no slippage.
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It could be some gunk in the valve body too. Although I am not a big fan of Mechanic in a Can products -- Trans X is a reputable product and was recommmended to me by an old time AMC mechanic for the rotten AMC built Renault I had -- they were noted for balky trans and annual usage of that stuff did "tune it up" and get rid of some of the shifting issues. Of course it is not a fix for worn out parts and seals. It is kind of pricey, but might be worth a try if you feel OK about using such products.
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Well, I borrowed my freinds Tech manual (wrong year (1981), but still most stuff will be applicable. So I started the diagnostics and found out I'm missing the kick down linkage for the trany (ahhhhh!!). So I'lll be getting one this weekend. In the interm, I started up the car and had a freind sit int he car while I manualy held the kickdown in place. Low and behold, the reverse engauged. It's slipping a bit now, but it is working nonth the less. So as soon as I fix that, I'll do a fluid flush, replace the filter, and adjust the bands and see where I end up when all is said and done. :) Thanks for the assistance so far. ;D
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I think you saw, in the TSM, the importance of the kick down linkage and how important it is that it is properly adjusted. Your friend's 81 TSM should be OK.
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Okay, I picked up the missing kick down link (off an 81 Concord). I have my fingers crossed.
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Okay, I installed the new/used linkage, adjusted it up, changed the filter and fluid, then adjusted the bands. Seams to have fixed the last of the trany gremlins! ;D
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Great! So I take it you have all 3 forward and the TC locks; and you can back up as well?
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Yep, all is good now (some more Murphays law). :)
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Sorry I sort of forgot about this after my post about the 727 swap. The 727 I used was from an 82 Cherokee (FSJ) which had a 258 in it, though any 727 from another 4WD 258 powered AMC product should work just the same. I am about to swap a 727 from an 86 Grand Wagoneer (FSJ) which was originally bolted to a 360. So far it seems it should work OK, but only if the flexplate has the dual bolt pattern otherwise I guess the torque converter won't bolt up. My 87 has the extra holes, and I was told anything after around 85 should. The 6-cyl converter such as my first swap works no matter what since it shares the same mounting pattern as the 998.
You cannot however use the 998 converter with a 727, they are very different in more ways than one (seal size, and the lockup vs. non-lockup).
Also the other AMC cased 4WD trannies like the 999 used in Wranglers and such should also fit. Note that newer Jeeps use the AW4 (30-40LE) Aisin-Warner four speed auto and those don't fit as a bolt in. But I have two of those which once I figure it out will be going into Eagles. So far they seem to be just the same except 4" longer, so new driveshafts would be in order and it might not work out so good on the short wheelbase models (thus wagon or sedan only, no Kammback or SX/4 - but I shall see) since the rear shaft might be too much angle if it's much shorter.
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Spudz76 howa the swap going?
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:eaglebig:
Im not a trans man so dont laugh, But is a lock up TC better than non and what are the benifits? Is there an aftermarket or better TC that will work?
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Is the TF998 known to have problums?
All my famalies Eagle tranys went!
What is the best way to stop it from going bad?
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Rebuild them hey most of them have more then 20 years on them
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They are a good tranny. Just most of them were neglected most of their lives. Its one of the simpler, cheaper ones to rebuild.
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Wont the TF 999 in Cjs fit?
Thats what was in my 1982 CJ-7 that i had to replace after swamping it in a big mud hole!
when i get my Eagle shound i tork the belts in the tranny?
My famialy alwas had tranny problums is that the best way to pervent it?
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The TF 999 should work. I think all external dimensions are the same. From what I understand its a tad beefier than the 998. All fasteners should be torqued to specifications. Will that avoid problems with the trannny? Not neccesisarily.
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my 86 Eagle with the 998 has a problem when its cold..yea I know wrap it in a sweater,
in warmer wx no problem since I used Clarks Trans Medic, really made a difference..I have heard comments like the toris seal in the front is bypassing? when the tranny warms up to op temp everything works fine, doesn't seem to slip etc, also I read someplace about a rear rubber seal, and back up slipage? the tranny has 120k so it sounds like a rebuild is comming...my 81 wagon, needed a rebuild and the lock up converter was the problem, also my 83 limited has lotsa tranny shop time...3x all for the converter comming apart? My 88 wagon still works ok at 111K :o
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It appears the torque converter and age are the weakest links. Not much you can do about the torque converter as its in the design -- age, means a good rebuild. Still much cheaper to rebuild these old 998's than the new stuff out there. Ouch!
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Last November I was having major tranny problems, so I dropped it off at a local tranny shop for an estimate, and I was informed it would be a meer $1875.00, so I decided to call around and found a rebuilt transmission at my local Autozone parts store part number "248256 904AMC4LU TRA 4X" for $503.99 with a $200.00 core charge. I had it in my 86 Eagle sedan within the week and have been free of tranny problems since. This transmission comes with a lockup TC and is dyno tested
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Thanks for the info! That is not a bad price at all. Will put this part # in our part #'s section.
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Hello all. I sold my '80 wagon to a local guy(VancouverBC) and 3 days later I bought an '87 wagon from Spokane. So now I'm back into Eagle land again. Yeh!!Seems I have a small problem with the tranny though. When I parked it overnight and went out to start it, it wouldn't start. Lots of juice etc. Seems there is something wrong with the tranny/linkage engagement. Sometime it will start either in D or N. It's intermittent. When it does start, feels and sounds like the driveshaft is binding a little. U joints or diff ?? don't sound healthy either. Could a bad U joint cause the tranny not to engage properly. I haven't been under it to check because driveline stuff isn't my best area. But if you guys could suggest what to look for, that would be terrific
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You need to adjust the linkage so it starts in park. I think that info. is here somewhere in this section. Make sure the transfer case is fully engaged. I suggest in 2WD until you check things out further. A 9/16" wrench placed on the TC shift lever nut and turned like you are tightening it will put it in 2WD.
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I could not find it. So here it is:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v190/IowaEagle/linkadjustment.jpg)
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Thanx. I will try that tomorrow morning. What would we do without your expertise Iowa!
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Not as much as others have; but I am armed with a TSM. Let us know if that was the problem.
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Will do.
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998 Fleet Car Transmissions. If you find a 998 in an old '82 Concord it will be from a car that was built for fleet sales. But, before you start scouring the yards be advised these 998's did not have the valve for, or the lock up torque converter. And putting a lock up converter in by itself will not give you that function, you need the valve too.
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I have a question on a transmission in a 88 Eagle Wagon. It broke down several months ago and I had it towed. The garage fixed the ignition problem and told me come and get it. Upon leaving the vendor the car had a "scraping" noise that increases and decreases in pitch and volume as you accelerate and decellerate. Of course the towing company says they didn't tow it any different than before.(they have towed this car before) It has been in the garage since and the trans fluid is now on the floor. I've had this car over a year as a daily driver and it's never leaked a drop of oil or trans fluid in that time. All the gears work and if you put it in neutral and rev motor the noise does not change. It only makes the sound as the car is rolling. I haven't had it looked at as yet but assume the trans is wiped. My "theory" is that they towed it backwards and screwed something up. It was pulled into a parking spot and I think they may have towed it by the back bumper instead of turning it around. I never checked to see if the transfer case was engaged or not....though I never suspected the 4x4 was engaged. Could towing it in this position have damaged it in some way?
My second thought is how much should I spend on a trans and what type do I need? I understand only one model is to be used in these things and was wondering what it is. Any and all advice/help you can give is greatly appreciated.
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First read my reply to another post I just made: http://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=4622.0 (http://forums.amceaglesnest.com/index.php?topic=4622.0) The appropriate way to tow an Eagle is with all four wheels off the ground or removal of the driveshaft to any wheels left on the ground. You have a Chrysler built, but the case the guts are in only fit AMC's, 998 transmission. They are cheap to rebuild and any experienced trans builder will have no problems. They use the same internal parts as any 904/998/999/727 Transmission.
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I'm not sure, but are there four-speed automatic transmissions in the newer jeeps behind the sixes? What are they then? They probably have lockup?
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I believe you are refering to the AW trans, Japaneese automatic behind the 4.0 ltr ..not even close..
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I got curious, so I worked up some numbers with our transmission v.s. a pair of GM overdrive transmissions.
I picked these because they represent the most common overdrive transmissions available in the after-market without computers, not because of intended application. (Could they work anyway?) For the record, a TF 727/904 is similar to a TH 400 in ratio (close ratio) and a 998/999 is similar to a TH 350 (middle ratio). These OD transmissions represent a wider ratio.
(http://www.people.iup.edu/ddtj/other/stats.gif)
Really, it just confirms my suspicion, my Eagle with the 2.35 feels at least half a gear behind. When I talk to big-block guys they like to keep those V8s around 2,000 at cruise, and even with the BBD, I've found it still makes power at 4,000. Never leave first.
(http://www.people.iup.edu/ddtj/other/slow.gif)
At 25 MPH it's obvious how much a higher ratio gets you into the powerband closer to launch.
Of course, this whole thing is assuming lock-up, or at least close to it, but I think it makes a point. And how often will you lockup when you're not too far above a high idle?
Well, I'm sure that this will help someone out anyway.
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Thanks. You sure went to a lot of work there. Will spend some time with it later. My tach (a cheapie) appears to validate your 2.35 rpm's at the speeds listed.
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Great tip. Thanks for the head's up on that one. Probably a lot cheaper than those cable kits you can get. Will have to pop the hood on our '95 Cherokee and take a look.
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Would a 904 trans out of a 77 hornet work in my 87 eagle wagon?
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You would have to dissassemble the 904 to remove the tail shaft and install the transfer case adapter. The 904 was not used in I-6 Eagles only in the 4 cylinder models and it does not have the lower first gear ratio found in Eagles. IMO I would get your 998 rebuilt, if at all possible.
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Plenty of them in the yard up here, the only problem is getting one out. the yard owner doesn't do any parts removal.
maybe you will get lucky on it and it will be something really simple. Glad you picked that one up, I was eying it up pretty good but never had the spare cash.
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Now is the 998 the same trans put behind 304's?
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AMC used it behind some V8's, not sure about the 304, but again you need to convert it to accept a transfer case and still no lower first.
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I have updated the original post to improve (hopefully) understanding and to add some info we have learned since its original posting.
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This could be a new topic if needed. However, I'll post my question here since I believe that the question and answer are germane to eagle automatics.
I AM INSTALLING A 727 transmission in my SX/4. I have a Cherokee trans cooler that I can install in front of the a/c condenser. My question is "which port on the trans case is the fluid being pumped out of?" The reason I ask Is that I want the fluid to go through the radiator first then through the auxiliary trans cooler then back to the transmission.
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Great question. I can check tonight but I bet someone here knows without looking it up.
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Josh, that maybe 'good ' advice for some one who is only doing light duty four wheeling. But, ... the number one enemy of automatic transmissions is heat. >:( The second is dirt. >:(
Yes, you can do moderate wheeling without an auxiliary cooler. I have done it many times before. :) But if I know of a better way to do things and if I can afford it, then I do it.
The 727 was rebuilt for a grand wagoner. The reason it needed rebuilding was slow speed wheeling and snow plowing. Snow plowing is done in cold weather when one would not think of overheating the transmission. But at those slow speeds there is not very much air movement through the radiator. Therefore the heat builds up. :o
Also, for the most effective cooling, one should hook up the lines so that the fluid goes through the radiator first and then through the auxiliary cooler before returning to the transmission. If hooked up in the opposite fashion then one would be cooling through the auxiliary unit and then heating it in the radiator. :-[
And for maintenance purposes just think of all four wheeling as severe duty usage.
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Is your electric fan a pusher mounted between the radiator and grill?
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Are there any four speed automatics that will bolt up w/o much modification to an Eagle?
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The AW4 from a Jeep 4.0 will bolt up. IIRC you will need to redo the drive shafts and maybe some floor pan mods. I forget what is needed regarding electronic sensors.
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The AW4 from a Jeep 4.0 will bolt up. IIRC you will need to redo the drive shafts and maybe some floor pan mods. I forget what is needed regarding electronic sensors.
Cool, I've always wondered if there was one out there, with gas near four bucks overdrive is quite necessary lol.
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I called a guy at "Jeep Thrills" the other day. This is a shop that only works on Jeep and Jeep related vehicles (like AMC's), and I was told by him that the output / input spline count would be different. Is he just trying to get me in for $110/hr labour charges or is there something to that??
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Sorry, the last post refers to the AW-4 tranny.
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According to a quick Google search, the pre 91 AW4's had a 21 spline count and teh 91 and later ones had a 23 spline. All Eagles used a 23 spline output on the tranny. Now I don't know if there are different lengths. Maybe you can install the matching transfer case with low range and put the labor charge towards that purhchase instead.
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http://www.drivetrain.com/new_overdrive/Dodge3speedautomatic/overdrivedodg3spdauto.html (http://www.drivetrain.com/new_overdrive/Dodge3speedautomatic/overdrivedodg3spdauto.html).. just found this page..did dodge actually use the same TF 727?
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Not sure what the question is, Torque Flite is Dodge.
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i wasnt sure dodge vehicles had it. ik chrysler used them.. wasnt sure any "dodge" vehciles did
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I think it would work only on 2WD applications. On our cars it would have to go before the transfer case. I think putting in an AW4 would be a whole lot easier and cheaper.
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I've Read Through Most Of This Forum... But I'm Still A Little Confused... What Would Be My Best Bet For What Year And Style Jeep To Get A Tranny Out Of For My 84 Eagle Wagon?? I Have The I6 258 (4.2) Engine In There... And What Modifications Would I Need If Any To Get The Tranny In Quick And Easy To Get My Eagle Back On The Road And Into The Mud Pit??
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Thanks A Ton Mudkicker!! I Been Needin A Way To Get My Baby Runnin Again... It Just Looks So Sad Sittin In The Garage With It's Guts Tore Out Right Now...
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pretty sure the TH400 only came behind the 401's
had a 76 cherokee chief 401 TH400 quadratrac.
i think the "smaller" eights got the 727 torque comands.
although my FSJ lore is becoming rusty...
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71 to 79 on the 400 with Quad, used behind all engines. 80 up on the 727 although they did use the 999 on the 258. If I had a choice between a 998,999 or 727, it'd be a beefed up 727, almost as good as a stock GM 400 ;).
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im a fsj man and i have a few of them. my question is will the trans from one of my parts trucks fir into the eagle. i know this has been touched on but before i buy an eagle that i have my eye on i wanted a definite. al of my trucks are 80s models with 360s. im not trans savvy and im looking for a cheaper way to fix this otherwise good car. sorry if im beating this point.
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Yes on the 727, same bolt pattern and the Eagle transfer case will bolt on too.
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so this can be swapped in with no modification? i just want to be clear on anything i may need before i move forward. thanks
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Yes, direct swap, only have to reposition the filler tube a bit from what I hear.
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I hate to start a new thread for one quick question so here it is. How do I replace the detent spring so the shift lever won't just float from Park to L1 without resistance? (81 SX4 4banger auto)
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There's two places where your problem could be, either in the shifter itself which would be my guess or inside the transmission which is far more unlikely.
I'd check the ramp where the detent pin rests between drive and second or the detent pin itself to make sure it is releasing all the way and riding on the bottom of the ramp.
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h286/packrat_2006/Various%20Parts%20Pictures/th_PDR_0827.jpg) (http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h286/packrat_2006/Various%20Parts%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=PDR_0827.jpg)
The second option is inside the transmission, but I very much doubt that's where the problem is.
(http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h286/packrat_2006/Various%20Parts%20Pictures/th_PDR_0831.jpg) (http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h286/packrat_2006/Various%20Parts%20Pictures/?action=view¤t=PDR_0831.jpg)
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Thanks for the quick reply.
The shifter handle it self is just fine. It is the only thing that keeps the transmission in aproximately the right gear. It is the spring in the tranny.
Is it something I can get at just by removing the pan and filter or is it more involved?
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You'd need to drop the valve body to get at the detent ball and spring. I'd really check the shifter very closely, once the detent pin drops into the notch on the ramp it's basically locked in place. Even if the detent ball was totally not there it would still stay in drive and not slip down into second. Just because the handle is fine doesn't mean the rest of the shifter is.
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I've also read thru this post, and I'm not sure about a few things:
the 998, 999 and the 727 will all fit on a SX/4 258 I6?? Just bolt 'em on, and away we go?
Someone also posted the bells are all the same? Well, let's say I have an SX/4 with a 998 tranny. Can you have it rebuilt with 727 parts? Is something like that possible, or do you just go out and scrounge for a 727? What if you can't find a 727 and you're stuck rebuilding the bell you've got? Can you turn a 998 or a 999 tranny into a 727?
Am I babbling again??
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Many of the rebuild kits are for the 727 & 9XX transmissions in that many of the parts are the same. All will fit your AMC engine as long as the engine is an I-6 built from '72 on or any Gen I, Gen II, or Gen III AMC V8 and the transmission is for an AMC engine.
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ok so i need to get the laymens walk thru the adjustment of the throttle rod.....my bird has a webber on it .....i'm wondering acouple things should i push throttle link all the way down and adjust or adjust by pulling throttle rod forward and then adjust and to what position and with all said and done should i have a spring pulling it to rest in the forward position???????????????
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pretty sure the TH400 only came behind the 401's
had a 76 cherokee chief 401 TH400 quadratrac.
i think the "smaller" eights got the 727 torque comands.
although my FSJ lore is becoming rusty...
The TH400 and TF727 are both officially rated at 450 ft/lbs. Today there are more 401 V8s in front of TF727’s than TH400s because the TF727 has many more axle and transfer case options. To make your Jeep off road capable the first step is to eliminate the TH400.
The only reason the GM TH400 ended up in AMC vehicles was because it was the only transmission that worked with the Borg Warner quadratrac transfer case. This was the first full time transfer case with viscous coupling and AMC always wanted to be ahead of the curve. AMC put quite a few TH400s in full size Jeeps, and they also put a few of them in CJ7s in 1977 to 1979. Some of those CJ7s were 304s, but most of them were 258s. These Jeeps do not have locking hubs, they are actually full time 4WD. Most of them did not have low range. The low range was a big hump added to the back of the transfer case as an option. The rear axle behind a TH400 is not centered because the driveshaft is offset to the passenger side to make room for the optional low range assembly. The first time I looked underneath my 1978 CJ7 I was totally confused. Its a very strange transfer case.
The TH400 is not an option for an AMC Eagle. Its output shaft is hideously long and the bolt pattern is bizarre. It’s not easily adapted to Jeep transfer cases because the adaptor is either very long or the transmission has to be taken apart to put in a shorter tailshaft. The only good thing about the TH400 is that it has an electric switch at the end of the dropdown cable. Thats what I call the linkage that goes from your carb throttle body to the transmission to let it know when to downshift under load. Some FSJs had an electric switch underneath the gas pedal and didn’t use a dropdown cable at all. That would eliminate the cable and simplify some carb and engine swaps. The quadratrac transfer case cannot work with an Eagle because both the front and rear driveshafts are on the passenger side. The only rear axles with an offset differential are the weak and narrow CJ7 axles or the super wide FSJ axles.
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I've also read thru this post, and I'm not sure about a few things:
the 998, 999 and the 727 will all fit on a SX/4 258 I6?? Just bolt 'em on, and away we go?
Someone also posted the bells are all the same? Well, let's say I have an SX/4 with a 998 tranny. Can you have it rebuilt with 727 parts? Is something like that possible, or do you just go out and scrounge for a 727? What if you can't find a 727 and you're stuck rebuilding the bell you've got? Can you turn a 998 or a 999 tranny into a 727?
Am I babbling again??
A 904, 998, and 727 all have different aluminum casings. They have the same number of components in the same place inside, but some of the internal assemblies are bigger and heavier in one model than another. The 727 is by far the strongest and the 998 is slightly stronger than a 904. The pan, valve body, linkages, plugs, bellhousing, and 4WD adaptor are all identical. It’s just the area right above valve body that’s dramatically fatter on the TF727 than the TF998. I wish I was home to take a picture of the two next to each other since it’s neat to see how only one area of the casing is puffed out. After upgrading your Eagle with the TF727 there will be less room between the floorpan and top of the transmission but otherwise all the important dimensions and linkages don’t change. Most rebuild kits are just a big pack of gaskets without any steel parts, so it’s very common to see one generic kit that works for all three models. Most of the gaskets are identical but you need to get the correct bands, friction plates, and other metal parts to match the model you’re working on.
Keep in mind that the available manual transmissions for your Eagle are rated between 265 ft/lbs for a T5 and 300 ft/lbs for an NV3550. The TF727 is rated at 450 ft/lbs and the 998 is at least 300 ft/lbs. The NV3550 is very robust and hard to break, yet it is still weaker than the 998. This should make it obvious that automatic transmissions will not fail because of applied engine torque. Even excessive heat is usually not an issue. They fail because they are totally controlled by pressurized fluid. As soon as one of the antique gaskets inside the transmission gives out the hydraulic pressure on the back of the servo decreases, which in turn decreases the amount of force being applied to the friction band, which allows it to slip and heat up until eventually you are no longer able to drive. A freshly rebuilt TF998 is much more reliable than a TF727 that has never been rebuilt.
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Here are some pictures comparing a 727 and a 998. The 727 is obviously fatter and has heavy parts, including a fatter input shaft. The throttle body, 4wd adaptor, and relative position and shape of all the components are identical however. The linkages are all the same as well. They are a direct bolt in exchange. They use different torque converters along with the different input shafts.
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/Sept20110448.jpg)
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/Sept20110451.jpg)
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/Sept20110452.jpg)
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/Sept20110454.jpg)
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I saw alot of posts saying to use a 727 out of a jeep with a 258.
Will a trans out of a 1986 Wagoneer with a 360 work?
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I saw alot of posts saying to use a 727 out of a jeep with a 258.
Will a trans out of a 1986 Wagoneer with a 360 work?
Grand Wagoneer, yes. Tcase as well. '80 to '91. Some 6 cyls used the 999. Usually Cherokees
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I have a 1987 eagle sedan 4x4, it has a 4.2 inline 6, will a 318 Chrysler bolt in and will it mate with the 3 speed auto
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the transmission has a different bolt pattern. the eagle axle also bolts to the motor. so that is another consideration
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Dodge motor and AMC motors don't use the same bell pattern. Jeep 4.0L is the same pattern, and double the HP with EFI