The Shop > Suspension, Steering, Brakes, Wheels & Tires
Front tire shoulder wear
MIPS:
When I got my Eagle the *really* old Firestones had shoulder wear on the fronts. Ultimately I replaced them in 2020 because the outer shoulders were rapidly wearing down to the filaments and became a liability, especially on the drivers side. Replaced them with new Yokohama All-Season M+S that were slightly oversize and got the front end realigned.
Did a left-right tire rotation last year and a bunch more bushing, balljoint, bearing and front-end linkage replacement, plus alignments again when needed and I'm seeing the shoulders wearing down again. Verified the tires are properly inflated. Shop says the alignment is still perfect on the jig.
Started running into excessive road noise (rumbling and fluttering like a bearing was going) that I assumed was a problem in the front diff (new wheel bearings, remember?) and sent it in for inspection before I take it on the highway again. They said the front tires are feathered and to perform a 4-tire rotation, drive it for a while and see if the noise goes away.
The rotation is not a problem to do but why the weird shoulder wear only on the fronts with normal tire pressure and good alignment?
Canoe:
> Shop says the alignment is still perfect on the jig.
What's the chance that they don't know the Eagle has adjustable caster & camber as well as toe-in?
And is there still movement somewhere in the suspension. Bearings?
Long shot: what's the torque pre-load on the half-shaft nut? Is that too low and somehow allowing movement?
It's been years since I've seen a left/right rotation. I've only done front/rear, keeping pairs on one side.
If the tires are somewhat oversize (in what way?), rather than a one-size-fits-all pressure, you may need to go to measuring temperature to determine if the tires are over/under inflated.
AMC of Houston:
The term "good alignment" worries me. I was a frame & alignment guy back in The Old Days. I'm still set up at home to do alignments! An alignment is only as good as (1) the alignment guy, and (2) the alignment rack "levelness" and calibration. Nowadays an alignment guy only knows what "the machine" tells him, and is clueless about theory. Have a copy of your alignment receipt with the readings you could show us? I'm curious where your guy left the settings.
rmick:
http://amceaglesden.com/guide/Alignment_Specifications
MIPS:
Checked with the shop and they agreed they must be missing something even though toe and camber is being checked. They can't blame much else because they are aware of how many new parts have gone into the front-end. They suggested I go to another shop nearby that is more specialized in alignments in case their computer is speccing the alignment to something wrong.
Shaft nut and bearings are still tight. That was all gone through a year and a half ago when the bearings were replaced. They still sound good as well.
I also did as per your suggestion and just did a front/back rotation instead and the noises absolutely went away from the front.
--- Quote ---If the tires are somewhat oversize (in what way?), rather than a one-size-fits-all pressure, you may need to go to measuring temperature to determine if the tires are over/under inflated.
--- End quote ---
LT215/75R15. Under normal driving and turning they are fine though in the winter when I put the mudflaps on the extra half inch on the wheel wells cause a bit of rubbing on hard turns.
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