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Author Topic: 360 swap exhaust problems  (Read 4247 times)

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Offline BenM

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Re: 360 swap exhaust problems
« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2012, 09:00:26 PM »
I would use 2" and go to 2.5" after the Y where they come together, but I don't like to be showy. Plus, I don't believe I'd ever notice the difference with anything larger. I wouldn't even sweat 1.75" if I needed it to clear parts around the motor.

I don't spend a lot of time at high RPM and wide open throttle. The smaller pipes may help with off-idle torque as well.

1987 AMC Eagle Sedan -- 1976 Pacer Coupe -- 1968 Pontiac Tempest Custom S -- 1940 Mercury (& a 2002 Jetta Turbodiesel, 5 spd., the Wife's Daily Driver)

Offline mudkicker715

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Re: 360 swap exhaust problems
« Reply #16 on: May 05, 2012, 10:02:46 PM »
The 304 i ran 2" but as stated i had all the room i wanted.
 the stroker 6 was tight for 2". i wanted 2.25", doesn't fit.

again i only compare the mid ninety's kee manifold since it looks to be placed comparitively to the v8.

Manitowoc WI

Offline carnuck

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Re: 360 swap exhaust problems
« Reply #17 on: May 06, 2012, 05:27:34 PM »
On my Jtruck I ovalled the pipe to fit between the frame and floor so I could use the space between the frame rails for air tanks and stuff (MAN I miss my J4000!)
AMC/Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental!

Offline The Dark Side of Will

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Re: 360 swap exhaust problems
« Reply #18 on: December 25, 2017, 08:37:44 PM »
The offset for the 258 is about 1-1/2" to the passenger side. This won't work with the 360. You need to decrease the offset to about 3/4". You'll have to cut the old engine mounts off the crossmember and make new ones. You need to bolt the engine to the existing transmission and then slide it sideways to know where to put the mounts on the crossmember.

Most people shave the strut rod bracket a little bit as well. This picture is from a V8 conversion sold on ebay. Mine will have a similar proximity to the bracket. Instead of grinding at it, I'd like to take the hump out of the bracket and make it flush against the subframe, with a notch in that lip in the way, but that would be alot of cutting and welding for very little gain. I'll probably just shave it like this.

I will disagree with you on a technicality, BUT agree with your point.

If the 360 is centered between the mount pads on the crossmember, then it is offset to the RIGHT by 1 inch. The engine needs to be shifted left by an inch to be centered between the frame rails.

Because the AMC/Jeep inline 6 block bulges out on the right more than it does to the left, the original position of the crankshaft is centered between the frame rails.


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