Recent Posts

1

AMC Friendly Shops/Vendors / RockAuto's latest Wholesaler Closeout Parts list for the Eagle

« Last post by johnbendik on Today at 02:18:12 PM »

https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1003509&m=wc&l=en&html=true

As always, a big list of mostly inexpensive parts made even cheaper.  I usually find something I can use...

Should this be turned into a 'sticky' so I can just update it instead of adding a new post?  RockAuto seems to publish this list twice a year.

JB

2

Question and Answer / Re: 1985 eagle air compressor

« Last post by rmick on Yesterday at 08:45:26 PM »

http://amceaglesden.com/guide/Auto_Level_Wiring_Schematic

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Question and Answer / 1985 eagle air compressor

« Last post by arktrans on Yesterday at 04:55:23 PM »

I have a 1985 AMC Eagle ltd. loaded. It has a under hood air compressor for tires and other accessory's. Does any one have a wiring diagram for it.  And does it raise or lower the car or is it just for tires and blow ups.?

4

Project Cars / Re: 3rd times the charm

« Last post by djm3452004 on Yesterday at 07:50:42 AM »

Dave! That fitting on the outer tie rod. Is where it's all wiggly. Do I need to replace the outer?

It would sound that way, yes.  I guess I am not sure what you mean by "that fitting".  The outer tie rod just has the ball-in-socket joint where it attaches to the cast iron steering knuckle, and the other side is threaded and screws into the adjusting sleeve.  At that location there is a kind of clamp that tightens the sleeve around the threaded portion of the tie rod.

If the ball-in-socket joint is wobbly or damaged, the outer tie rod needs to be replaced.  If just the clamp is bad, you would need to purchase the threaded adjusting sleeve which comes with new clamps.  Either way, you are going to have to get a front-end alignment to have the toe-in professionally set.

I know budget can certainly be an issue, but if budget is no issue, replace all the tie rods at the same time, inner and outer.  These are all wear components and all will eventually go bad depending on age and vehicle use.  You'd hate to just replace one tie rod, get an alignment, then have another tie rod require replacement in short order and make you have to get an alignment again.

The last part is strictly opinion, but hopefully this helps --

Dave

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Project Cars / Re: 3rd times the charm

« Last post by Ace2600 on January 27, 2020, 11:11:34 PM »

Dave! That fitting on the outer tie rod. Is where it's all wiggly. Do I need to replace the outer?

6

Project Cars / Re: Project SX4 Evo - SX4 Junkyard to Pro Touring

« Last post by LeviBetz on January 24, 2020, 05:58:40 AM »

You said that you traded your AW4, what transmission/transfer case combo are you planning on using?

I've got an AX15 I picked up along with the NP242 that came with the AW4. So the plan is to rebuild the AX15 (it's pretty high mile) with some upgrade parts from marlin crawler (need to confirm they'll fit). I've also been thinking about maybe trying to pickup a r154 or ar5 and use that gearset and midplate. But that's a pretty halfbaked thought for now. It'll definitely be an ax15, keeping it 5 speed manual.

Also, someone on my AMCForum thread pointed out that if my 0330 head is cracked and was the culprit of the water in the engine, the rust would be in numbers 3 and 4. I checked tonight and that is the rusty pair. So it looks like I'll definitely need a new head. I'm thinking of maybe having a go at porting my spare Renix head I have, but that may not even be worth my time.

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Project Cars / Re: Project SX4 Evo - SX4 Junkyard to Pro Touring

« Last post by LeviBetz on January 24, 2020, 05:54:57 AM »

Thanks for the kind words! After today's discoveries, I may not have to raise the diff after all! Over the past few weeks I've 3d printed and assembled the needed pieces to mock up the front suspension and cycle it through it's travel.

Once my balljoint reamer came in, I reamed the S10 knuckle for the new tapers (flipped taper on the lower, larger taper on the upper), and mounted it to the bracket.


Today I got around to mocking up the upper control arm and cycling the suspension! Not pictured is the 3d printed UCA mount studs. I printed a simple cylindrical part that allowed me to mount the UCA in place with just sheet metal screws (temporarily of course). That was sturdy enough to move the control arm through it's travel. This is at approximately ride height.


Here you can see the CV angle, just roughly measuring it with the angle finder it's around 12 degrees, which doesn't seem too crazy. Also, obviously this is my standard Eagle axle, and it seems to fit nicely still, so I don't think I'll have to go to the S10 axle. At full droop (the axle approximately flat) it has maybe a 1/8" inward clearance, and then at full bump it seems to have the tripod joint fully engaged still.


So it's all looking very good! Like I said I cycled it today, so I measured the camber curve, and it's a little too aggressive. I think I need to ream the upper ball joint stud a bit more. But I have a somewhat janky ball joint in there right now, so I think I'll pickup a new one from the parts store this week. Other than that, I didn't notice any crazy bump steer. Suspension travel and ball joint angle seems good for the travel range I want and coilover I plan to run, even the bump stop is falling right into where I want it. I'll cycle it again this week and use something to check bump steer through it's range of travel. Other than that, and not quite as fun there is a fair amount of rot in the frame rail, so I will have to address all that. Ugh, rust repair in the home shop is no fun. Oh well, what has to be done has to be done! 

8

Project Cars / Re: 3rd times the charm

« Last post by djm3452004 on January 23, 2020, 08:02:54 PM »

Transmission is hanging, crossmember needs to be unbolted from trans. Transmissions resting on a jack as it sits. Last to do is exhaust, and then bell housing bolts. Once out, seat gets removed, fixed and reinstalled. Then a tie rod, and then the heater gets figured out. Put a new set of tires on, and I'm golden!

On that tie rod issued, Its the front left tire, and the very front most tie rod, which part is that?

The attached photo is of the passenger side front of an Eagle, but it is same setup with tie rods between both sides.

If you need more photos, I can get you whatever you need.

The Moog P/N for the inner tie rod is ES2107RL, and the outer tie rod is ES2016RL.  The threaded adjusting sleeve that goes between the inner and outer tie rods that is used to adjust your alignment toe-in is Moog P/N ES2032S.

Hope this helps --

Dave

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Project Cars / Re: 3rd times the charm

« Last post by Ace2600 on January 23, 2020, 12:38:10 PM »

Transmission is hanging, crossmember needs to be unbolted from trans. Transmissions resting on a jack as it sits. Last to do is exhaust, and then bell housing bolts. Once out, seat gets removed, fixed and reinstalled. Then a tie rod, and then the heater gets figured out. Put a new set of tires on, and I'm golden!

On that tie rod issued, Its the front left tire, and the very front most tie rod, which part is that?

10

Body Shop / Re: Grand Cherokee (ZJ) hitch Install

« Last post by Eagleearl on January 18, 2020, 06:53:13 PM »

Great job. Thanks for the pics.