Putting FUN and FRIENDLINESS, FIRST into owning and learning about AMC small bodied cars, primarily Eagles, Spirits and Concords as well as vehicles built in AMC's Mexican subsidiary, VAM.

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  • July 10, 2020, 10:09:04 AM

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Recent Posts

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For Sale: AMC Eagles/4wd Jeeps / Re: 1981 SX/4 For Sale
« Last post by Canoe on Yesterday at 07:29:12 PM »
Your ad states
This car is a project. It needs some body work, (rocker panels and a small floor issue), and some electrical work as well as hydraulic clutch repairs.
I cannot, will not, take more pics.

So how would a potential buyer who is not near you in NB be able to see the condition of the vehicle to gauge how much work is required? No mention of what electrical issues; that covers a lot of ground, especially when the engine has been "hot-rodded". Which head. Not even a shot of the engine? No shot of the rockers or floor that needs work.

There's some hints but it doesn't come close to what one needs to know. You may wish to consider what you'd want to know and want to see before buying or travelling to see a vehicle long distance.
For Sale: AMC Eagles/4wd Jeeps / 1981 SX/4 For Sale
« Last post by Mitch on Yesterday at 07:06:47 PM »
It's a long shot but I'm selling an SX/4 here in New Brunswick, Canada. Someone from the New England states may want to come here to get it as your money is worth a lot more than ours.

Here's my ad...
Project Cars / Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 "Silver Beast" (from Finland)
« Last post by juhap on Yesterday at 12:31:01 PM »
Keep calm, and carry on...  :banghead:

Project Cars / Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 "Silver Beast" (from Finland)
« Last post by juhap on Yesterday at 09:25:12 AM »
Welded and painted.

This is drivers side under rear seat...   >:D  :censored:  :help:

Never expected this, because it looked quite decent... But rust never sleeps...

Now there is something to repair...

Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Starter: grind, bind noise
« Last post by Canoe on July 08, 2020, 01:44:22 PM »
... the culprit the hole in the plate is supposed to align the starter. ...
This is exactly what the issue is supposed to be.
There's the seemingly mythological "stock" shoulder bolts for mounting the starter, but the parts catalogue and all of the stock setups people have found use fully threaded bolts. I couldn't find a shoulder bolt that would fit.

Stud for upper: no go. I forgot the bolt starts from opposite sides for mounting the starter.
Stud for lower: carriage bolt with the found head ground off but leaving the square portion is a no go - square portion won't clear the bell housing when put in from the housing side. Had to grind the corners off the square head to take it back to the thread thickness.

Just a tiny bit of the former noise. Doesn't sound like anything is getting trashed. Starts sooner/faster. People no longer look when I start it.

Lower bolt replaced by stud, with threaded-sleeve to function like a shoulder bolt:
  • carriage bolt, head ground down until it's as narrow as the threads, then cut a slot for a screwdriver in what is left of the head
  • screw into the bell housing lower bolt hole from the housing side, with a drop of reversible thread-locker on the last few threads
  • 3/8" fender washer 1.5 mm thick as a shim goes on the stud
  • DIY threaded-sleeve:
    - the hole in my starter flange for the lower bolt is ~1.7 mm wide, 3/8"+ deep
    - 3/8" T-bolt, flange ground off, height left is 9/32 to 5/16 (sloppy grinding, but it's less than the depth)
    - narrowed the resulting threaded-sleeve down to 1.5 mm (using a drill with bolt & sleeve and a flat file)
  • the "good" end (unground) of the threaded-sleeve goes on the stud first, threaded down so it secures the shim/washer finger tight
Starter Install:
  • Starter easily fits in place, with the lower bolt hole over and on the stud & threaded-sleeve with the starter flange up against the shim/washer
  • support the starter and get the lock washer and nut on the lower stud finger tight, then ensuring the starter flange is against the plate/shim/washer, tighten until the lock washer is slightly compressed
    - starter can move slightly with the play between the stud, sleeve and flange hole
    - if the locator/plate hole is worn oversized, the starter can pivot on the lower stud within that hole
  • place the upper bolt through its hole, placing the 1.5 mm thick fender washer as shim/washer on the bolt
  • hold the starter tight in place and start the upper bolt
  • when the upper bolt is finger tight, the starter is sitting with its weight taking up any play between holes and upper bolt or lower stud&sleeve
  • tighten upper to firm
  • tighten lower beyond firm to snug
  • torque upper, then torque lower

NOTE: I don't believe the fender washer as a shim is an essential element of this working; but I might be wrong. I had some improvement using a 1.1 mm regular sized washer, so I wanted to try this with a larger washer for more stability. 1.5 mm was what I had in the bin. As per the MSR, you have to check the extension of your starter's Bendix vs. the distance from the locator plate to the flexplate teeth. A shim could come into play to allow you to adjust the extenion to fall within the range specified.

There may be some optimizing possible by moving the starter within the play available with this setup. If one's results weren't as good as mine with the above stetup, one could try adding a threaded-sleeve to the upper bolt.

I am amazed that given the play in the bolts to holes, such a little difference has so much influence.

The way I did it, the location is determined by the lower stud with threaded-sleeve with its play having the starter "down" and the upper play places the starter down and out from the flex plate as its play "pivots" the starter outwards on the lower stud's sleeve. I think.

The mounting/locator plate surface to flexplate teeth is 21.10 mm. That's the upper limit in the TSM & MSR (19.6 to 21.1 mm). I'm using a washer as shim of 1.5 mm, and there's no longer paint on the plate. I'll have to revisit that shim thickness after some days or weeks, to check the starter Bendix for wear marks. I'll adjust, or make a full size shim or remove the shim/washers.
Project Cars / Re: 1980 Eagle Sport STW 258+TF998 "Silver Beast" (from Finland)
« Last post by juhap on July 08, 2020, 08:11:14 AM »
New piece of Eagle ...

Did not finished yet, because of heavy thunder and rain...
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Starter: grind, bind noise
« Last post by rmick on July 07, 2020, 09:16:03 PM »
I had an experiance like this on a Ford Van. I found the plate to be the culprit the hole in the plate is supposed to align the starter. At some time the starter had came loose and caused the plate hole to enlarge just enough that even after tightening the bolts the starter never set right again. Ended up replacing the plate and problem solved
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Starter: grind, bind noise
« Last post by Canoe on July 07, 2020, 06:27:33 PM »
I went back to see what I wrote
I thoroughly cleaned the plate the starter installs against (grease and some bits of paint in places) and ensured the bolts were properly torqued when re-installed.
and I didn't mention the raised metal along the lower edge of the hole the starter mounts into, that I filed off level to the plate as part of cleaning the plate. I'm now thinking that at some time the bolts were not tightened adequately and a starter sagged down hammering the plate locator opening over time.

I've marked a housing plate photo I found on the www with the location where the raised edge was.

So, shoulder bolts or equivilent functionality should locate the starter to its correct location. I'd expect pushing the starter upwards in the plate hole and managing to secure the bolts with the starter in that position would work, but I have no guarantee the upper part of the hole wasn't also affected by a sagging starter.

Current plan is to go with upper hole with a stud and threaded-sleeve to act as a shoulder bolt, and let the starter pivot off that down & outwards within the lower bolt play to get the lower bolt in place.
Engine Electrical Systems. / Re: Starter: grind, bind noise
« Last post by Canoe on July 07, 2020, 11:57:26 AM »
Aaaand, I realized that with the lower bolt as a stud with sleeve for a tight fit to the starter flange, dropping the weight of the starter when installing could lead to finding out which was weaker: the stud, the starter flange or the housing. I really don't want to find out.

So the upper will be that "stud" I made (with no sleeve), for ease in getting the starter in place and securing it only finger tight so it can move within that stud to flange hole play. Then a bolt with the "shoulder" sleeve can be secured in the lower bolt position, providing the registration. Rotate the starter within the upper play so the starter is furthest from the flexplate. Tighten and torque.
That's the theory.
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