AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Under the Hood & HVAC => Topic started by: madmax4x4 on May 05, 2015, 03:47:38 PM
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I've looked in the eaglepedia and Chilton but don't see which side is the low side? Also does anyone know the specific r12 to R134a retrofit service port adapter part number? I have purchased two sets on could only get the two larger high side ports to fit.
Is the low side on the left?
(http://i693.photobucket.com/albums/vv294/madmax4x4/car/20150502_185035.jpg) (http://s693.photobucket.com/user/madmax4x4/media/car/20150502_185035.jpg.html)
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There should be an "S" and "D" (suction and discharge) on the compressor head (rear). The suction is the low side, discharge is the high side.
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I'm pretty sure the one on the right is the low side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v637/svoman2300/20150502_185035_zpsptbfieaf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/svoman2300/media/20150502_185035_zpsptbfieaf.jpg.html)
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I'm pretty sure the one on the right is the low side.
The low side is usually the side with the larger hose.
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It will also have a low pressure switch on one of the lines.
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Dis and suc was marked on the back. It's the hose on the right side. Still didn't find a low side adapter that would fit so I put the large high side port on both side and switched the coupling on the charging hose. Got it filled but only took the one can 12oz I think to read in the green.
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Did you replace the canister? It is supposed to collect oil there and supposedly switching from R12 to R134a will ruin your compressor if you do not replace that at the same time. Its important to get nearly all of the old oil out before putting in the new because they are not compatible together.
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There is a new synthetic oil that is compatible. It's been a couple years since I did my last AC car. (works fine in my wagon AFAIK)
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I had r134 in long ago but I'm not sure if that was done. Hope it's not too late to do it now. Going to order a new drier and take it to a place that will flush and fill it again.
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I had r134 in long ago but I'm not sure if that was done. Hope it's not too late to do it now. Going to order a new drier and take it to a place that will flush and fill it again.
I have much experience with A/C, and especially with the Sanden compressors.
Flushing is easy to do. The A/C flush solvent is available at most auto parts stores. Do NOT flush the compressor! It is best to remove the compressor and turn it upside-down with the fill plug off to drain the oil. Also, turn it on it's end to get any oil out of the head (rear of the compressor). Re-mount the compressor and then add PAG oil for 134a, or Mineral oil for R12. You can also use ester oil, which is compatible with either refrigerant. It usually takes about 8oz of oil total for the system. I like to add 6oz of oil to the compressor, and the rest in the system during the charge process (A/C machine). Flush all the hoses, condenser, and evaporator until clear liquid comes out. It is suggested that you use a dry gas the last thing, but shop air will work first. Shop air could have some moisture in it, so blowing out with dry gas just before hooking everything up gets most, if not all the moisture out. If you are going to charge the system right away, uncap and hook up the drier LAST. Pull a deep vacuum, and inject the remaining oil during the charge process. Good luck, Rich
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Oh yes, don't forget to check for leaks before and after charging! I use nitrogen (same dry gas used for flushing) and soapy water before, and an electronic leak detector after. If dye is used as well, ultra-violet light and glasses can be used....Rich
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I had r134 in long ago but I'm not sure if that was done. Hope it's not too late to do it now. Going to order a new drier and take it to a place that will flush and fill it again.
I have much experience with A/C, and especially with the Sanden compressors.
Flushing is easy to do. The A/C flush solvent is available at most auto parts stores. Do NOT flush the compressor! It is best to remove the compressor and turn it upside-down with the fill plug off to drain the oil. Also, turn it on it's end to get any oil out of the head (rear of the compressor). Re-mount the compressor and then add PAG oil for 134a, or Mineral oil for R12. You can also use ester oil, which is compatible with either refrigerant. It usually takes about 8oz of oil total for the system. I like to add 6oz of oil to the compressor, and the rest in the system during the charge process (A/C machine). Flush all the hoses, condenser, and evaporator until clear liquid comes out. It is suggested that you use a dry gas the last thing, but shop air will work first. Shop air could have some moisture in it, so blowing out with dry gas just before hooking everything up gets most, if not all the moisture out. If you are going to charge the system right away, uncap and hook up the drier LAST. Pull a deep vacuum, and inject the remaining oil during the charge process. Good luck, Rich
Sounds like a pian. What does a shop usually charge to do this?
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If you have a mixture of R12 and 134 in your system, it might be hard to find a shop that will want to hook it to their machine. If you don't tell them and they find out later, they will most likely be pretty upset.
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I want to get a new drier but even napa says they can't get one. It is factory air. Auto zone had one listed but when you try to check out they can't get it either. Haven't checked eBay get but I usually get the wrong thing with I go with eBay.
Anyone know where they still have the driers?
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You may have to retrofit a universal drier with new hoses/fittings. Universal driers come with either flare or Oring type fittings (#6), and are less than $20. Most A/C shops can retrofit one for you.
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Rockauto.com has 3 left. Different years may be different.
I just chose '81 Eagle with 4.2L
A/C Filter Dryer for factory AC
Part Number: TEM 208425
Dealer installed AC
A/C Filter Dryer
Part Number: TEM 208317
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Got a new drier but can not get it un hooked from the condenser :banghead: I've been putting break free on and off for weeks. It doesn't look like it's coming off without breaking the condenser. Anyone know of a good universal one that will match up. The one specific of the eagle is like $300 :help:
ETA: right after typing this I tried again and got it unhooked. Hopefully the condenser is still good. :hello2: