AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Mighty 258 => Fuel Systems. => Topic started by: vangremlin on June 01, 2014, 06:52:16 PM
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My coupe started running poorly a couple weeks ago, but I haven't had time to work on it since I've been out of town for a week. It seems to run fine for about 10 seconds, then it is almost impossible to keep running. At first I thought it was an issue with the distributor and or spark plug wires since it was raining when it first happened. Its been dry here for a few days and I still had the problem when I started it up this morning, so I ruled that out.
Then I went looking for a vacuum leak. The CTO system for the distibutor on these 1980 models is really hard to work with because its placed below and behind the carb, and almost impossible to get to the thermal switch. I temporarily bypassed it and the problem didn't improve.
However, I did get the car to run, then I jumped out and stuck my head under the hood. I noticed gas coming out of the hose that leads from the bowl vent on the carb (see picture). I'm thinking its an issue with the float or the shut off needle, so the carb is flooding. Any thoughts? Can I replace the float with the carb in the car? Thanks in advance.
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/brilliantd/Eagle%20Coupe/161d06b9-dbe4-4db5-a646-1877d7e01e49_zps18d62ccf.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/brilliantd/media/Eagle%20Coupe/161d06b9-dbe4-4db5-a646-1877d7e01e49_zps18d62ccf.jpg.html)
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I suppose you could replace the float with the carb still on the carb, but it does take quite a bit of disassembly to get to the float. It would be easier if you removed it from the car.
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I've done it before but the chances of dropping something into the intake manifold make it a bit risky. Maybe you can tap on the float bowl with the handle of your screwdriver and see if it'll help the float settle into position first
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If it turns out you need a float I have several. Let me know. :eagle:
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Could be just a piece of crud stuck on the needle valve; which you can get to easily. Just remove the fuel line, the needle valve seat is the brass bit under the fuel line. Unscrew it gently so the needle won't drop into the float bowl when you remove the seat. May help to mark it so you don't tighten it too far on reinstall (which would lower the float level a tad).
If you want to mail me the carb, I'll be happy to go through it (incl doing the idle tube service bulletin). I have kits, floats, choke pull-offs, etc. in stock that I got cheap via Rock Auto closeouts.
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Thanks everyone for your replies. AMC of Houston, if I can't get it cleaned up myself, I might take you up on your offer - I know you do great work!
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I got the problem solved tonight. I pulled off the fuel line, pulled out the valve seat, and found a chunk of rubber fuel hose in it. Shook that out, put everything back together, and it runs fine now. If only all problems were that easy to solve!! Thanks again to everyone for your help.
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/brilliantd/Eagle%20Coupe/IMG_20140602_181840_zps0d950490.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/brilliantd/media/Eagle%20Coupe/IMG_20140602_181840_zps0d950490.jpg.html)
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h109/brilliantd/Eagle%20Coupe/IMG_20140602_181931_zps6dc99f45.jpg) (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/brilliantd/media/Eagle%20Coupe/IMG_20140602_181931_zps6dc99f45.jpg.html)
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HI I always want to know is where did that chunk of rubber cone from and is there any more .....good luck
....don
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HI I always want to know is where did that chunk of rubber cone from and is there any more .....good luck
....don
Yea I'll probably pull that short section of hose between the filter and carb just to make sure there aren't more chunks waiting to pop off.
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So I picked up some fuel hose to replace the pieces before and after the filter in case that was the source of my chunk of gunk. I installed the hose pieces this evening, started the car up, and had the same symptoms. Pulled the fuel line off the carb, took out the needle, and found another piece of gunk. I removed it, put everything back together, started up the car, and it ran fine. Here are some possible sources of the gunk, which again seemed to be a piece of rubber:
1. This last piece was one last piece from the old hose, and now my problems should be over.
2. Its originating farther upstream and somehow getting through the filter, which would make it the crappiest filter ever.
3. Its some rubber piece from within the filter, which would again make it the crappiest filter ever.
4. Could it be coming back up through the return line??? I know some Eagles came with a check valve in the return line (there was not one present in this car when I changed the line), so could gas and gunk be coming back into the filter and then into the carb??
My plan is to pick up a new filter tomorrow, put that in, and hope my problems are over.
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I would think its number one, a residual peice that had already worked loose before you changed the hose.
Course I'm usually wrong, sorry.....
Is there such a thing as a clear fuel filter that has the bypass too like we use? I really like to see the gas in there. I always use the clear ones one my other old cars.
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I haven't seen a clear filter with the bypass outlet. Even the Fram filter spec-ed for the Eagle has a metal body.
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I would replace the filter just to be sure, but I would bet on it being a piece from the old piece of hose. The way the filter is set up, I don't see any way that it could make its way from the return line through the filter.
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There used to be a clear filter with the extra line (which came out of the side of the filter body instead of the end) but I haven't looked for one for some time. IIRC, it was for an '81 Dodge pickup. Possibly the Mitsubishi design D50 truck. I put it with the extra line vertical on my first Eagle back in Canada (about 19 years ago)
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Thanks Carnuck. I just looked through the RockAuto catalog at the 81 Dodge trucks. The D150 fuel filters had that extra line coming out of the body. They also spec some clear ones, like the Fram G2 and G3, but none of those have the extra line. I'll keep looking.
I suppose it would be possible to put a "T" downstream of a standard clear filter but I'm not sure they make T's suitable for fuel lines.
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Steel tees are around, but you need it on the filter due to vapor lock. Heated filter "boils" the fuel (thanks to alcohol laced fuels)
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HI I had a 87 dodge 250 4x4 it had that type of filter on it a 318 cid .....what I have ben putting on my cars now is the old glass bole filter with a stone like filter in it .....you can find them at the auto parts or tractor supply ....It works grate and you can see the gas going through ....I have a 1945 A C tractor it has one on it ......Van it works for me ....don
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I suggest replacing the stock bypass filter AND adding a clear filter after it and before the carb. Then there would be no need to find or use a clear bypass type filter.
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I suggest replacing the stock bypass filter AND adding a clear filter after it and before the carb. Then there would be no need to find or use a clear bypass type filter.
Great suggestion - and a simple solution!