AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Project Cars => Topic started by: macdude443 on October 12, 2011, 09:46:56 PM
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I've wanted one of these cars since I was a kid and saw one in Back to the Future. I'm 23 now (maybe still a kid) and already have my dream car. I think that's a goal few people can attain. The vehicle is a 1982 SX/4. The following is what it needs/what I'd like to do:
- Rust repair. Floors have a bit of rust and a hold here and there.
- Fresh carpet. Front carpet is shot. Rear seems ok.
- Motorcraft 2100 mod. It's got a TBI in it now, but I'd rather have a carb.
- Transmission. This wasn't supposed to be a problem, whether the previous owner knew it or not.. she needs a tranny (or a major adjustment)
- Rear window and sunroof leak. New seals or some sealant.
- New window channels and sweeps.
- Paint job!
Here are some photos of the car a few days after I got it home:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/304489_10101506151372464_9384144_85732200_1382030303_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/305146_10101506151177854_9384144_85732198_494197740_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/296235_10101506151562084_9384144_85732203_1328711354_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/300495_10101506152230744_9384144_85732208_352663677_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/308123_10101506152350504_9384144_85732209_765749304_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/296445_10101506152505194_9384144_85732212_1737526676_n.jpg)
Floor rust
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/320733_10101506173967184_9384144_85732323_717890603_n.jpg)
Roof surface rust
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/304712_10101506150768674_9384144_85732194_1463073601_n.jpg)
Quarter window rust
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/304306_10101506150978254_9384144_85732196_363796683_n.jpg)
Trim needs to be re-painted as well. Looks like a home black-out job.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/318814_10101506152096014_9384144_85732207_700073440_n.jpg)
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Glad you found her. Is there a reason you don't like the TBI? Was the throttle rod AKA kickdown rod connected to the throttle body? If not this could have lead to the demise of the transmission or be the source of your problems. What's the transmission doing?
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Glad you found her. Is there a reason you don't like the TBI? Was the throttle rod AKA kickdown rod connected to the throttle body? If not this could have lead to the demise of the transmission or be the source of your problems. What's the transmission doing?
The TBI seems to work fine, but the way it's wired scares me to death. Bare wiring left and right, no labels. I also like that if a carb has an issue, I feel like I can track it down easier. If a computer acts up, I don't know where to start. The throttle linkage is connected. I was told the throttle body is a GM WD1(?). If you go to the transmission shop section I have a thread called "SX/4 lousy shifting" that'll explain the issue.
Other things to do: The gauge cluster in the center console will be removed. I need a place for my sunglasses and cassettes. I was given two sports seats in good shape and the original radio panel. They will be put in down the road. In the past few weeks I've bought an original AM/FM AMC stereo, new windshield wiper mechanics (the originals had a ton of play and would smack the trim) and an interior driver door handle as my spring was broken. Also picked up a set of Eagle fenders and an Eagle egg crate grille. Thanks to sleepsundercars and thereverendbill for the help with the car and parts thus far!
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I was lucky enough to find a garage to store her in over the winter. It's heated and free of charge, no less. This will allow me to keep going with the work that needs to be done.
Here are some shots of what was done this past weekend:
The winter dwelling.. you can see where I tried my hand at some naval jelly, sealer primer and rustoleum on the fender.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/309533_10101619416867504_9384144_86633348_1246024803_n.jpg)
Goodbye seats!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/296394_10101619417156924_9384144_86633352_282521119_n.jpg)
Goodbye smelly, rotten carpet!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/314989_10101619417346544_9384144_86633357_1517162474_n.jpg)
Passenger side:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/297983_10101619417606024_9384144_86633359_1275627282_n.jpg)
Driver's side, with a bondo'd hole:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/310241_10101619417815604_9384144_86633364_1047582855_n.jpg)
Rust hole behind passenger seat:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/317348_10101619418085064_9384144_86633368_59081452_n.jpg)
Same hole, different angle:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/319220_10101619418274684_9384144_86633370_362658465_n.jpg)
Bad area cut out of driver's side:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/308177_10101619418738754_9384144_86633378_525625024_n.jpg)
Friend welding in a patch:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/317424_10101619418943344_9384144_86633381_1379068903_n.jpg)
First patch installed:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/307414_10101619419117994_9384144_86633385_186483309_n.jpg)
I began scraping off the old tar-like coating on the passenger's side. It looks as though most of it did it's job.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/293561_10101619416662914_9384144_86633345_1685120156_n.jpg)
My plan is to evapo-rust all the remaining surface rust once the holes are cut and patched. I will then rough up the rest and use a spray-can epoxy primer on the entire floor. It will be painted black and covered with 3M rubberized undercoating. I may put some Penetrol under the primer.. but I think that might be redundant? Thoughts?
The underside will be epoxy primered or Penetrol'd as well, followed by Waxoyl. I don't plan to drive the car in the snow or rain. I want it to last a LONG time.
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I'd be willing to bet you could sell the TBI and have enough for the carb conversion and the dist upgrade.
I still love the SX/4. Man those are cool!!!
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I bet you could also sell the rally guages.
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The rally gauges are not original, but I have considered selling the tbi.
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What exactly would I remove to lose the tbi? I imagine the TBI, mounting plate and computer. But what about the sensors? Do I remove and plug the oxygen and MAP sensors?
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I will be following this one closely. Looks like you have everything under control!
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Thanks! It may take a while. I don't have a huge budget. But in the end it'll be worth the wait.
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Are you in PA? Maybe I could recruit your friend to weld my floors haha! Looks great, keep up the good work.
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MAP sensor - gone
O2 - gone
Computer - gone
electric fuel pump - gone (or add a regulator)
The Motorcrat only needs 3psi and a linkage. 2 vacuum lines and you're done.
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Are you in PA? Maybe I could recruit your friend to weld my floors haha! Looks great, keep up the good work.
Thanks! I am. I just posted that in your thread. ;D I live in central PA now, but next time I'm back east with the Eagle we'll have to meet up.
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Very nice project car. You have inspired me for when I start in on my SX/4 (Road Trip). I did notice the front grill though, I have never seen one like that before. I like it with the AMC logo.
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Keep it up! Looks like a fun project but also a lot of work! But will be well worth it in the end.
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looks pretty sweet id like to find one as a project! on a different note does anyone know if that gauge cluster and console (if one could be found) would work in an 85 sedan???? i think it makes the interior look really nice!
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Also there are two different consoles.One for the automatic and another one for the manual cars. But yes they will fit. Might want to place a post in the parts wanted section.I am sure there are several members on here that have one that they would be willing to sell. Also watch the big auction site.There on there from time to time.I believe there is one on there now!!
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im sure i can fab a bracket to mount them and i dont even care if it actually works i just think it looks cool and makes it look less empty lol
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Also there are two different consoles.One for the automatic and another one for the manual cars.
Are you sure about that? I thought the difference was in the shifters not the console.
I forget exactly. I beleive rounded corners to square corners for the shifter cut out.
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im sure i can fab a bracket to mount them and i dont even care if it actually works i just think it looks cool and makes it look less empty lol
i put a black console in my wagon and I didn't make any brackets, once it is in there it is pretty secure cause the package tray and the shifter hold it pretty stout
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Just sayng I seen both auto and manual. Heres a manual.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc55/mudkicker715/2011-10-15152727.jpg)
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Auto
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc55/mudkicker715/2011-10-15153104.jpg)
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Thats a great project car ya got there. Rust can be a death sentence for theses things but it looks like you took you got that issue under control right off the bat....That car has a ton of potential ....I look foward to following this thread.....Egg-cellent save by the way!
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Heres a link where you can get replacement carpet when the time comes. http://www.auto-interior.com/amc3.htm#Eagle
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Thats a great project car ya got there. Rust can be a death sentence for theses things but it looks like you took you got that issue under control right off the bat....That car has a ton of potential ....I look foward to following this thread.....Egg-cellent save by the way!
Most of it is fine aside from that hole near the door sill. There is a hole just in front of that tire as well. That's the first thing that needs correcting. I plan to use Waxoyl rust inhibitor fogging spray and shoot it into the rockers, doors and frame rails. Then, if I'm reading it right, I can put Waxoyl hardwax(?) in there over it. I'll inspect it better when the bad metal is cut out. When I removed the plastic moulding a bunch of damp sandy dirt fell out. Luckily both outer rockers are perfectly intact. The only major rust issue is that hole so far.
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Heres a link where you can get replacement carpet when the time comes. http://www.auto-interior.com/amc3.htm#Eagle
That's where I was planning to get it. I've heard good things.
Also, what do you guys think of this product? Looks like it's intended for my purpose. Or would the Waxoyl inhibitor be better? http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/5183/category/26/ (http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/5183/category/26/)
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With the little amount of time I've had to work on it, the floor patching is complete and I've began to remove the remaining surface rust before priming. There is some slight pitting on the driver's side near the shifter. I decided, after reading so many good things, to use the Klean Strip Phosphoric Prep & Etch to remove the surface rust. I tried it on some tools and it took the rust right off. It is sprayed on, worked in with steel wool, and then washed off with soapy water. It looks as though the rust has been removed from the pits, they are more of a dark grey color now rather than brown. Is it ok to prime it at this point? It doesn't seem as though I can get any more brown rust off the surface.
I am using Spray Max 2K aerosol epoxy primer with Eastwood brushable seam sealer to follow, before paint.
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I think you're good to prime after you've applied the phosophoric acid and washed afterwards. It may not be necessary but I like to use an etching primer at this point anyway.
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Great. I'll clean up any oil residue with some citrus degreaser and put on the prime coat. Thanks!
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Can't wait to see more from this. Great project you have here. Eggs!
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Nice work so far! and lucky snag on the heated storeage 8)
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Well the front footwells are primed. In the mean time I removed the bumper, spoiler (found a key lock underneath), grille (Spirit GT) and headlight bezels for painting. The previous owner also gave me a nice set of sport seats. The mounts are a little rusty and I'd like to paint them. They need to be greased as well. How do the tracks come apart?
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All tracks but one are de-rusted and painted. It looks a little too far gone, but I still have some hope. I soaked the ends of the tracks (the rustiest areas) in Evapo-Rust for a day or two each to remove the rust. I painted them with galvanizing "rust tough" primer from ACE hardware and coated that with ACE brand Epoxy enamel. They're not the prettiest thing but at least they won't be rusty. I used semi-gloss Krylon fusion on the headlight bezels. I tried the over cleaner trick to remove the chrome plating but it didn't work at all, so I sanded the chrome and painted over it. Came out ok. If you look closely you can tell they're spray-bombed.
I primed/painted the metal hood trim strip, too. I haven't done the bumper yet, but I did remove the fog lights. The reflectors had crumbled into rust, but KC sells them new for $8 each.
I also put in my order for the Gronk motorcraft upgrade. Next thing I need to do is go back down to the garage and put on the seam sealer, as well as pull the back carpet to check for any corrosion back there. Doesn't seem to be any in the far back, so I don't think it'll be too bad.
I can't wait to have a camera again.
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You're really moving along with this project. Once your past the rust, everything else will seem like a piece of cake. I can wait to see more pictures of your project....This is a very interesting project indeed!
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Thanks! I'm, as they say, jonesing, to get behind the wheel.
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Also, what do you guys think of this product? Looks like it's intended for my purpose. Or would the Waxoyl inhibitor be better? http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/5183/category/26/ (http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/5183/category/26/)
Eastwood is a great company, I trust their products. They make a quality generic of everything you need. Their Rust Encapsulator paint is exactly the same as POR15 except very slightly cheaper and said to be slightly better.
The best part is that the company is based in Pottstown, PA. You can walk in and walk out with everything you need. Since you grew up in Boyertown, you know exactly where that is.
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I feel ya man!! Theres nothing harder than having the car sitting there but not being able to drive it....But when you do finally get it on the road it will be that much sweeter!
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/405205_10102031395079864_9384144_88916432_574007549_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/407958_10102031394491044_9384144_88916425_401128871_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/400292_10102031394051924_9384144_88916421_175864878_n.jpg)
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Floor after primer and seam sealer:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/381304_10102041510872734_9384144_88955368_590534561_n.jpg)
Rear after seam sealer:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/396487_10102041511471534_9384144_88955373_1055858929_n.jpg)
Front floor after a crude spray paint job:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/406956_10102041510568344_9384144_88955365_2043636493_n.jpg)
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Very nice pictures. Thanks for sharing.
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WOW, that turned out good!! Those floor pans are look as good as new...Thats some fine work there.
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Bumpers gone.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/376018_10102041511790894_9384144_88955375_356378583_n.jpg)
Working AM/FM stereo to replace the CD player, thanks to sleepsundercars.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/381813_10102056859738484_9384144_89034315_2056042883_n.jpg)
Picked up these emblems on eBay and did the vaseline treatment to them:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/397588_10102056860042874_9384144_89034318_1536198594_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/393243_10102056860287384_9384144_89034322_1167664671_n.jpg)
Quarter glass removed to tackle rust. No holes! Bad pitting, though. Will use epoxy primer, followed by high-build and some sanding.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/407945_10102272729962824_9384144_89773961_1924316213_n.jpg)
Sunroof frame removed. Had to saw it out thanks to the moron who siliconed it in instead of repairing the seal (which was glued in upside-down, by the way).
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/428013_10102272731429884_9384144_89773964_430653288_n.jpg)
Removing fenders. New ones on the way thanks to reverendbill. Also pulled the drip rails.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/408099_10102272731814114_9384144_89773965_1116411997_n.jpg)
Windshield pulled intact. Small pinholes on the drivers side, but not where one would think. They're on the inside of the car, where the dash meets the metal. Odd. My friend is going to fill them in with the MIG, grind them down. Then we'll naval jelly it all, epoxy prime, putty the pits and sand it smooth.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/407967_10102272732338064_9384144_89773967_1713393800_n.jpg)
Hatch removed.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/430308_10102272732782174_9384144_89773968_1321968384_n.jpg)
Around the hatch opening, after wire wheeling and two treatments of naval jelly. Sadly, the rust is under the seam. Aside from drilling the welds out, cleaning and re-welding, I can only clean it out the best I can, prime and seam seal it again. Any thoughts?
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/428132_10102272733286164_9384144_89773969_311934501_n.jpg)
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Excellent project and great write up. Did you figure out what to do about the rust in the seams of the rear hatch?
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For the rust in the rear hatch, I wire-wheeled out as much as I could. Then I bought a can of Eastwood Rust Converter and soaked it. Let it cure for 48+ hours. Then I soaked it with Eastwood Red Rust Encapsulator. Let it run down into the seam. Let that sit and cure for a week or two. Then I came back, scuffed it and sprayed SprayMax 2K Epoxy Primer (in a can) on it. I did that today. When it cures, I have a caulk gun loaded with seam sealer that I'll put in the seam. They shop will paint over that when it gets done. I'm hoping with garage storage, it'll hold off the rust for a few years.
Pics to follow...
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Here's an update on the slow progress...
Quarter window with some good 'ole Bondo.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/541087_10102792392095744_9384144_91870361_1616458426_n.jpg)
The horrid looking front end. I've never seen paint chip so much.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/577984_10102792392335264_9384144_91870365_2037363525_n.jpg)
Yuck.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/523720_10102792392609714_9384144_91870367_1625240235_n.jpg)
Tail lights removed, hatch gutter area epoxy primed.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/524965_10102792392839254_9384144_91870370_1733663879_n.jpg)
Interior. No more door panels or glass.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/562510_10102792393098734_9384144_91870373_1522965507_n.jpg)
Rear hatch area, touched up. Gutter/channel around hatch epoxy primed. The bumper things I can't get off.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/525611_10102792393388154_9384144_91870377_174440905_n.jpg)
Shot some Eastwood rust encapsulator on a few places for the heck of it. I wire brushed what scale was there (very little), wiped with wax and grease remover and sprayed. I'm not proud of this work.. but if it works, what the hey.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/576319_10102792393627674_9384144_91870379_385767001_n.jpg)
Front end after sanding/wheeling and "encapsulating" the bare/pitted/lightly rusty areas. I will add epoxy primer the entire area once the encapsulator cures. The body shop will paint this area black/yellow.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/523043_10102792393847234_9384144_91870382_107808642_n.jpg)
Passenger side. Sanded out the dings and chips on the door edges and around the window. Removed rear fender flares and rocker plastic.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/s720x720/179502_10102792394001924_9384144_91870383_494555379_n.jpg)
This is the best I could do with the windshield channel as far as rust removal. Wheeled what I could, "converted" with Eastwood Rust Converter. Covered with Eastwood encapsulator. Then I scuffed and used AllMetal to fill the pitting. Once that cured I sanded it smooth and coated it with epoxy primer.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/427808_10102792394141644_9384144_91870387_1854287048_n.jpg)
Driver side. Same thing with the door here. Got the dings out around the edges the best I could.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/534218_10102792394396134_9384144_91870388_1258355422_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/576367_10102792394575774_9384144_91870390_912882623_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/303343_10102792394960004_9384144_91870394_615010929_n.jpg)
:censored:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/576495_10102792395598724_9384144_91870404_2065683889_n.jpg)
Proof of a collision. This is the mounting area for the hood release.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/562630_10102792395773374_9384144_91870406_1860657636_n.jpg)
More collision evidence. Notice the mangled metal.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/294937_10102792396002914_9384144_91870409_920429974_n.jpg)
D'oh! At least this is as bad as the outer rockers get.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/303337_10102792391816304_9384144_91870358_1503205415_n.jpg)
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looking good so far. keep up the good work.
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Thanks
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This thread inspires me to get to the bottom of my honey do list :rotfl: so I can get to work on mine.
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if you need a radio bezel thats in good shape i have one for free just pay shipping. great build. so what type of transmission are you going to use
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as a side note for anyone with a leaky sunroof ....... clear RTV IS NOT A FIX!!!! (comming from the guy smoothing out the roof)
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The sealant they used when they put it in was still plenty solid. The leak was caused by bad weatherstripping.
Bill, I pulled the doors and brought them with me to work on this week. There are so many small chips that it looks best to sand the whole thing. I can do that as well as prime it after work and have them ready by next weekend.
Thanks for the radio bezel offer. I actually got the original bezel with the car. It has a wagon bezel installed for the din style pioneer.
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well thats good. i am putting in a double din dvd player in my project so i am not going to cut up a good bezel.
it looks like you have your hands full. so what did you find to be the best way of getting the tar off? i have been scraping my whole car and my arm is getting sore.
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I scraped it up. Most of the driver side was so rusty that it just peeled off.
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good deal, I'll give you a call about the same time on saturday and we can get the car pushing farther forward ....
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looking good so far!
let me know if there is anything else you need besides the piece Bill asked me about for the right door.
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Hmm, a pair of black visors with metal mounts and a decent AMC emblem, haha.
By the way Bill, I also had my buddy weld the last part of the floor and that small cut in the door skin. He also attempted to fix the outer rocker hole but it didn't go over so well. If you have a welder, I may need some assistance with that part before paint.
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By the way Bill, I also had my buddy weld the last part of the floor and that small cut in the door skin. He also attempted to fix the outer rocker hole but it didn't go over so well. If you have a welder, I may need some assistance with that part before paint.
remind me on friday about it so I can pack my truck accordingly ...... I should have my toolbox reinstalled by this weekend as well
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For the rust in the rear hatch, I wire-wheeled out as much as I could. Then I bought a can of Eastwood Rust Converter and soaked it. Let it cure for 48+ hours. Then I soaked it with Eastwood Red Rust Encapsulator. Let it run down into the seam. Let that sit and cure for a week or two. Then I came back, scuffed it and sprayed SprayMax 2K Epoxy Primer (in a can) on it. I did that today. When it cures, I have a caulk gun loaded with seam sealer that I'll put in the seam. They shop will paint over that when it gets done. I'm hoping with garage storage, it'll hold off the rust for a few years.
That's the aproach I'd take. I think it'll last quite a while as long as you have the surface clean and dry before you put down caulking and paint. I know the rust converter I use recommends wiping down the area its applied to with water after 24 hours. When I do that I make sure I dry it with a towel and compressed air very quickly afterwards.
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Hmm, never heard of using water that long after the conversion process. Mine say to use it right after the process to remove the excess. The product from Eastwood I use here takes a good, long time to cure, but the instructions say to topcoat it, or add encapsulator after.
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So I removed all the trim and the decals from the doors and sanded them down. There are like 30+ little chips in the paint from where stones hit the doors. On the first door, I just sanded down to get them as smooth as I could, then I put high-build primer/surfacer over them. They we still visible, so I added a few more coats. I haven't sanded it yet. I'm assuming when the car is block sanded they'll go away?
On the second door, I used a strip disc to take the chipped area down to bare metal. Then I did the same thing. On this door, you can clearly see the areas where I took it down to bare metal after the primer/surfacer dried.
Are any of these methods the right one? Is there a trick to removing a bunch of tiny dings/chips when you re-paint a whole car?
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I'm a complete novice to paint, if that wasn't obvious. With any luck the paint on this thing will last a week before the wind blows it off.
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When I did the sx/4 doors I stripped the whole door down to bare metal. You don't necessarilly have to do this, you have to feather the chips out. Anywhere there is a chip, sand maybe a 10" diameter, working inward to the chip, you should see layers (basically blending it in). Once you can not feel where the chip was, you're good to go with your high build primer, blocking will take care of the rest.
This pic kinda shows what I mean.
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz55/shaggimo/EAGLE/SX4068.jpg)
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Actually here's a better example on a fender
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz55/shaggimo/FREEKEE/fender14.jpg)
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Hmm, never heard of using water that long after the conversion process. Mine say to use it right after the process to remove the excess. The product from Eastwood I use here takes a good, long time to cure, but the instructions say to topcoat it, or add encapsulator after.
I'd follow whatever instructions are on the product. Mine said to wait 24 hours to wipe with water.
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Yeah, that's what I read for chips. Unfortunately these doors have tiny nicks in the metal. So when I primed over it, you could still see the mark. Tonight I sanded the problem area a little, then I put a dab of bondo over each mark and sanded it smooth. No more marks. I also improved on a serious crease down the length of one door. The paint shop recommended I use the allmetal over the marks, which I would.. but I already primed them. I know it'd probably work fine, but something in me said "just use a little bondo".
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Drivers Side door.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/549363_10102822851834184_9384144_92043626_253193550_n.jpg)
I guess this was a dented area. Funny, I can't even remember. No dent now, though!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/564880_10102822852248354_9384144_92043627_1719694361_n.jpg)
Someone had tried to saw the :censored: door skin in half on the driver's side. This is after Troy welded it and ground it down. (area right above the mirror hole)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/577671_10102822852717414_9384144_92043632_1333792162_n.jpg)
Passenger door. There was a giant crease down the center (this is where the un-sanded Bondo is). This photo was taken after I bondo'd and sanded down the marks from stone chips. Can you tell there was once a small rust pinhole with heavy pitting? Removed the rust and filled it with AllMetal.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/533002_10102822853855134_9384144_92043635_604092848_n.jpg)
Light, sanded Bondo marks from stone chip repairs.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/556790_10102822854793254_9384144_92043640_877411744_n.jpg)
Drivers side door, primed.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/484314_10102822854908024_9384144_92043642_1355646993_n.jpg)
New sunroof.. old sunroof.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/576855_10102822855117604_9384144_92043644_1625762009_n.jpg)
Someone tell me if I'm using too much Bondo. I used AllMetal for the important bare-metal repairs.
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Someone tell me if I'm using too much Bondo. I used AllMetal for the important bare-metal repairs.
There were so many dents and dings on my doors I covered the entire surface with bodyfill and then sanded whole door down until the metal just started showing through.
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Macdude,
your body work is looking good to me. I am not an expert on auto body repair but I've done a lot in the past. My dad and his friends would get together a couple of weeks to work on somebody's car and after they prepped the car with sanding/stripping paint and applying bondo, I would go behind them and do the fine sanding and feathering with 220 or higher paper. Your bondo work looks good to me. Just be sure to feather the edges real nice and on the long flat spots, use a striaight piece of 2x4 to wrap your paper around. That will help you stay level and parrellel to the body lines as you shape the bondo. When your done, the bondo should only be an eigth to a sixteeth of an inch thick in most place. Some may be more if there was a major dent on a curve or like the area of your crease. When feeling for smoothness, I usually close my eyes and rub my hand around the area to feel for high or low spots. This way, I don't really know exactly where I am feeling and if I find a high spot, I'll open my eyes and sometimes will not see it.
Two quick tests to perform if you think your bondo is too thick.
#1 - the magnet test. Take a small magnet and wrap it in a shop towel. Use it to se if it will stick to the areas where the bondo surfacing was done. The shop towel will keep the magnet from scratching your work.
#2 - the knock test. Use your knuckle or a small screwdriver and lightly tap on the body and listen to the tone. Hitting metal will sound brighter and more of a tone to it. Hitting bondo will sound like a thud. Whenever I look at cars, those are two tests that I use to check how solid the body is and/or how much work was done.
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Need to order some things to have on hand after the paint is dry... not sure where to go.
1.) Marker light seals (front and rear)
2.) Sport mirror seals
Any ideas? I bought the door handle seals: J3743608
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kennedy american
american parts depot
some of the links from the nest lead to body gaskets and such, but mainly door seals. been a long time since i have looked for stuff like those.
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Rear end paint reference.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/600519_10102893544605304_609222101_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/185174_10102893544859794_1164742711_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/600033_10102893545119274_1049606332_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/600430_10102893547519464_325389031_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/282651_10102893547749004_545672935_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/421529_10102893547903694_741896392_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/522393_10102893548113274_1033496527_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/599990_10102893548312874_759798664_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/392442_10102893548507484_836558470_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/562610_10102893548846804_307332840_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/179630_10102893549111274_768527979_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/217822_10102893547155194_116567775_n.jpg)
Oooo.. ahhhh.. sunroof in after finally ordering the right size.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/182869_10102951329918074_403315967_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/282634_10102951330077754_626714530_n.jpg)
So much for a dome light...
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/303476_10102951329713484_1277043989_n.jpg)
Things still to do:
- PAINT
- Put new bushing and pins in door hinges, since they're off anyway.
- Herculiner the floor
- Carpet
- Clean all trim and interior panels
- Scrub fender flares
- Paint bumpers
- Engine Upgrades
It is acceptable to feel a little overwhelmed at times, right? :-\
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Yep it sure is! Must of if not all of us have been overwhelmed at one time or another. The main thing is to stay focused and do one thing at a time. At some point it will all come together and all the hours of work and some fustration will fade away replaced with a broad smile and then you can say Hey hon come here and see what I did!!By the way its looking fine!
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Nicely done and the work you do now will pay off later in pleasure. You're doing it right and that always takes a little time. Don't fall into the rush to get done and think you can just redo it later. Take your time, give yourself realistic goals and don't forget to breath!
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Things still to do:
- PAINT
- Put new bushing and pins in door hinges, since they're off anyway.
- Herculiner the floor
- Carpet
- Clean all trim and interior panels
- Scrub fender flares
- Paint bumpers
- Engine Upgrades
It is acceptable to feel a little overwhelmed at times, right? :-\
Don't think about the whole job, just focus on the next task in front of you and think about accomplishing that goal. Just promise yourself you'll keep at it and try to do at least a little regularly and the big picture will take care of itself. You've come a long way already, being ready (or almost ready) for paint is a major milestone.
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nicely done!!!
if ya need to do any more ding/chip repair another method is to use different colored primers... then you can tell how deep you have sanded (learned that while fairing repairs on a boat hull)...
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Thanks for the encouragement. It's good to know I'm not alone.
I decided I'd have a go at replacing my window sweeps. The door panel/interior side is held on with very heavy duty staples. I got them all off with no problems (besides sore fingers). I've read that some use pop rivets to re-attached. Has anyone done sweeps before? Any opinions on rivets vs. new staples?
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Happy to say the Eagle is running once again :hello2:. I installed the HEI distributor from Skip White Performance. Wired it to the yellow wire on the old ICM harness. Also installed the new 2100 from Gronk. Had to run a new gas line, and the vacuum lines aren't 100% done yet. She runs rough and needs to be timed and fine tuned, but it's another step done. I also sprayed the rockers and frame with Eastwood's "Internal Frame Coating".
The paint shop is tied up until the end of the month, but with any luck they'll squeeze me in then.
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This is gonna be one sweet ride when it's all said and done! :)
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the missing link fender is in the home stretch and will be making a trip out to ya on saturday ..... sadly me and the mobile paint shop will be along for the ride :P
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Sadly? Think of the 100 degree heat we'll get to work in!
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Sadly? Think of the 100 degree heat we'll get to work in!
prepare for an early go at it then :rotfl:
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Awesome job so far,i'm taking notes on what you used to combat rust.I think you'll be stoked when it's all said and done :occasion14:
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A man and his eagle ...... a beautiful thing
(http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/thereverendbill/matts%20SX4/th_VID_20120722_100054.jpg) (http://s82.photobucket.com/albums/j261/thereverendbill/matts%20SX4/?action=view¤t=VID_20120722_100054.mp4)
sorry about the shakiness this is the first video I have recorded from my cell phone
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New carb from Gronk installed and running smoothly!
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/251986_10103090781471044_1508823927_n.jpg)
Carb and HEI (notice the lack of wiring birds nest.. all gone. Sorry Mr. Armstrong.. no power locks and graphical computer interfaces on this Eagle)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/549018_10103090781241504_1942092438_n.jpg)
One of the fenders. Primed, painted and waiting for rubberized undercoating:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/603532_10103090780767454_1248781670_n.jpg)
One of the old Spirit fenders.. yowza
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/602550_10103090780987014_907141374_n.jpg)
Shiny hinges with new pins and bushings:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/484469_10103090781830324_1443183565_n.jpg)
Block sanding...
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/581967_10103090781985014_1301183366_n.jpg)
Bill working on one of the fenders:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/295305_10103090782174634_575497201_n.jpg)
Painting the underside of the new hood (thanks Catspillane!)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/425035_10103090782454074_2068513682_n.jpg)
Some pictures after it we got it timed and running nicely. When we fired it up, some of the neighbors came out to see what we had been working on for almost a year.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/396103_10103090782788404_624139171_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/428871_10103090783067844_375871352_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/484039_10103090783312354_2105626078_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/377735_10103090783442094_901125018_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/524006_10103090783606764_881083117_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/427413_10103090783766444_470779008_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/480040_10103090783941094_1567205680_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/545546_10103090784140694_1106477163_n.jpg)
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Your project SX4 is coming along nicely. You will have a great looking car that will last you a long time, when you are finished.
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Looking good my friend! I hope to have mine repainted by the second week of August. Too bad I am just getting into stripping the interior! Long way to go.
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Looking good my friend! I hope to have mine repainted by the second week of August. Too bad I am just getting into stripping the interior! Long way to go.
don't set yourself a deadline or you might end up hating yourself in the end. throughout the body work on this particular car I know of at least 3 deadlines that where set and missed. this last weekend we worked 15 hours saturday and another 6 on sunday. there is also some work that still needs to be finished but a majority of the fitting and sanding has been finished.
the biggest tip I have for anyone that is doing all of the prep work to have a car painted is to NOT try and get it all in one sitting and be sure to take a break at least every 2 hours and go back over the work you just completed cause there is bound to be something that you overlooked or missed
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While I wait for the paint shop to call me, which looks like late next week or maybe early the following, I have a few other things to do. First off, the power steering gear box is dripping power steering fluid. I picked up a complete seal kit from Everco for $20. Also have to finish up re-painting the trim and get supporting metal welded into my seat frames.
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Also bought new battery/alternator leads. Local shop had OEM equivalent replacements.
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She's off to paint! We towed it about 30 minutes north to a body shop recommended to me by the local paint supply shop. They came out to look at it before I drove it off the trailer. One of them says "Yeah, that's an Eagle alright." Out in the sunlight it was clear to see some imperfections here and there, which they said they'd take care of before paint. The one guy was telling me how they restored a Dart, having it fully sandblasted and all, and the rust came back in a few spots a year or so later. Fingers crossed on this one ::).. They said she'll be done in a week or so. I also gave them some photos to reference as well as the NOS SX/4 decals to slap on.
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/313529_10103147838044214_452298717_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/283702_10103147838243814_870503370_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/528672_10103147838428444_503736343_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/185445_10103147837754794_1176092249_n.jpg)
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Colors? Or do we have to wait? :)
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She's going to be all original colors. AMC 2B "Sun Yellow" with black accents. Sorry, plain jane here. ;D
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She's going to be all original colors. AMC 2B "Sun Yellow" with black accents. Sorry, plain jane here. ;D
is there such a thing as a plane jane yellow?
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Yeah, it may be original colors, but Yellow certainly isn't plain Jane! I look forward to seeing it!
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It was a good move to take it them covered. That should reinforce to them the value you place on your Eagle.
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It was a good move to take it them covered. That should reinforce to them the value you place on your Eagle.
Yeah, that was Bill's idea. Hopefully I didn't void that perception of value when I pointed out all the dents they could skip repairing because the flares will cover it up :P. Nah, I think they understood that. I had a long convo with the owner later on the phone.
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I forgot to post this earlier. For what it's worth, here is the old steering box:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/528703_10103149142315444_1588044732_n.jpg)
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Nice build!! I look foward to seeing it painted.
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Good move on keeping it original.Don't think you will ever regret that move.I think yellow is a fitting color for a SX/4. Back in 1971 I ordered a new 71 AMX that was canary yellow with the 401 and all my friends called it the nucular banana.
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Glad you guys like the color choice. The more I think about it, I guess I should really replace the :censored: heater core while the dash is pulled out...
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the reason I said to cover it was that there where places that we sanded right down to metal in the process of blocking the car down and the omni primer was fighting me every time I sprayed it and ruined 3 of my paint guns so re priming it wasn't really something I wanted to do
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I did buy a 12'x24' tarp, but the radar said clear skies.
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Here is the car in the shop, getting the finishing touches done before sealer and paint:
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/189465_475769272442387_1453720821_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/533142_475769295775718_464084758_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/283733_475769319109049_544565994_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/s720x720/533176_475769342442380_1372410569_n.jpg)
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I stopped in today. They said the sealer should be put on tonight, along with the black. All the photos are being put on their website as they do the work: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.475769259109055.115727.470799326272715&type=1 (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.475769259109055.115727.470799326272715&type=1)
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Kinda neat they do that 8) .
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can't wait to see it all painted up
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I think my Jeep is jealous. So far its had a bad water pump and now a battery issue. Wouldn't start on the day we took the SX/4 to paint.
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After epoxy sealer:
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/406195_476788485673799_1068111436_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/313688_476788539007127_1460184282_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/576124_476788705673777_60654162_n.jpg)
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It's looking real nice! Can't wait to see this thing back together and driving around!
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;D Nice! Are they doing a basecoat clearcoat, or single stage acrylic enamel?
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Decided to go with BC/CC. More durable. Less toxic.
She's one color again! Waiting on photos of the black parts as well as clear...
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720x720/553523_476850325667615_217432630_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/312031_476850372334277_1955720716_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/409665_476850559000925_43646256_n.jpg)
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WOW! You gota love the look of a fresh new QUALITY paint job!
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Very nice!
Remind the painter that the lower lip of the front valance under the bumper will be visible and needs to be painted body color . . . unless you planned on that being another tone or blacked, and I just missed that in the rest of the thread. Duuuuh. Found it in a more careful re-read. Two tone, original colors, got it.
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Hello i see the pictures say johnstown pa I'm in homer city. Is that Eric Armstrong's old eagle? If you need help or parts i have plenty. Car is looking great.
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Oooo! Its so exciting to see a car in the final stages and getting painted!
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Forgot to thank you for a great picture of the mounts for a rear window louver in the first page. Do you have the louver for the rear window? They can be difficult to obtain.
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Maybe it's just the picture, but it seems like the yellow isn't as vibrant? Maybe the clear coat will make it pop!
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Hello i see the pictures say johnstown pa I'm in homer city. Is that Eric Armstrong's old eagle? If you need help or parts i have plenty. Car is looking great.
That's the one, thanks!
Forgot to thank you for a great picture of the mounts for a rear window louver in the first page. Do you have the louver for the rear window? They can be difficult to obtain.
I have rear and side louvers, but they're plastic.
Maybe it's just the picture, but it seems like the yellow isn't as vibrant? Maybe the clear coat will make it pop!
Yeah, that's what I'm told. It may just be the camera. I'm out of town for the week, so I only have the photos they take for their facebook page. I haven't actually seen it in person. They used paint code 2B AMC "Sun Yellow", so at least I know it's correct.
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All done!
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/217985_479192475433400_1174647988_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/387028_479192578766723_13524008_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/300894_479192702100044_1649338292_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/s720x720/555719_479192812100033_885216688_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/s720x720/217782_479192905433357_1893337443_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/s720x720/394527_479193018766679_1787215216_n.jpg)
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:occasion14: Schweeeeet! Looks awesome! I was a little leary on the yellow, but now I see it, fits very well 8) .
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Awesome looking SX-4. My wagons same color..Might have to paint it now to make it look that good.
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Looks really really nice! In my opinion just right.
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Your Eagle looks great!
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absolutely the right color scheme for that eagle! it will be a sweet eagle when finished
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Awesome looking SX-4. My wagons same color..Might have to paint it now to make it look that good.
I don't think they made any sun yellow wagons.
I have to agree the yellow and black is a great look for the SX/4..especially one with a sunroof!
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Thanks for all the kind words. Sure is nice to finally see it in this state.
Some updates:
- I bought a new heater core. I figured I'd be dumb not to replace it now.
- Windshield and hatch glass should be installed by the end of the week.
- Thanks to vangremlin I now have a nice AMC cassette deck to install in place of the CD player.
- Along with the above, I hope to get the floor bed-lined and the carpet in over the weekend.
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You might want to let that bed-liner dry and air out for awhile since it is in the interior.
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That's a good idea. I'll do that.
So the windshield and hatch glass are installed. What is the method of getting the hatch trim into the gasket? Seems like a very tight fit.
I'm also having some weatherstripping woes. It keeps pinching in the certain areas which in turn keeps the door from closing completely. The instructions say to test fit it before using glue, but I can't technically test fit it because it pinches due to the glue not being there. Any suggestions? I bought the weatherstrip from AM Auto parts on the auction site.
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I'm also having some weatherstripping woes. It keeps pinching in the certain areas which in turn keeps the door from closing completely. The instructions say to test fit it before using glue, but I can't technically test fit it because it pinches due to the glue not being there. Any suggestions? I bought the weatherstrip from AM Auto parts on the auction site.
Try using Armor All (not where the glue goes, only where the weatherstrip touches the body).
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What does the armor all do?
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She's going to need new headlights. The low beams look ancient. When I picked one up to check the numbers the two glass halves came apart in my hands ::). Looks like they're H4651 and H4656.
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What does the armor all do?
I assumed by "pinching" you meant that the weatherstrip is like curling over (fresh paint may grab the edge of the rubber and curl it rather than letting it slip by). Armor All will lubricate the rubber as it rubs against the fresh painted surfaces. If your weatherstrip is new, it will be very tight and the doors may not close properly.
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I have rear and side louvers, but they're plastic.
I'm curious about these where did you find them? Or did they come with the car?
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Would a silicon spray work in place of armor all?
The plastic louvers came with the car. I'm guessing it was an aftermarket add on.
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Would a silicon spray work in place of armor all?
If what I am assuming is happening with the rubber, then any lubricant should work. However, Armor All is good for rubber, but I am not sure about silicone lubricant.
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Looks like silicon may be a bad idea. I'll give the armor all a shot. What is happening is that the weatherstripping is getting caught in the gap in the front of the door opening, near the hinges. The new weatherstripping looks larger in diameter than the old stuff, but is sold for the Eagle 2 door. I tried the adhesive already in an attempt to hold it more against the door. It worked a little but still jams in the gap. The door just bounces back out when you close it. Pretty awful to watch really.
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Consider looking for different weather stripping that will fit properly. My father once paid a cut throat 'body' shop to put new weather stripping on his '72 Buick. Had to slam the door to get it to latch once they were finished with it. They told him the weather stripping would relax with time and fit properly. It never did and ended up ruining the door after a year or so. Wish I was standing there when he picked it up as I would not had let him take it home like that. Point is a lot of improper fitting weather stripping is sold as a replacement for original equipment when in fact it is not. New weather stripping should fit snug, but not tight. It should fit in a manner that matches what the car left the assembly line with. If it doesn't send it back and try to get a refund.
Good luck with it.
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This is what I used. Doesn't look like it's returnable, since I had to glue it before I even test fit it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-AMX-Eagle-Gremlin-Spirit-Door-Weatherstrips-Seals-/130645503533?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AEagle&hash=item1e6b142e2d&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMC-AMX-Eagle-Gremlin-Spirit-Door-Weatherstrips-Seals-/130645503533?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AEagle&hash=item1e6b142e2d&vxp=mtr)
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I am thinking with some door adjustments we can get it to fit correctly ....
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Update:
I got the carpet in, though I'm not very happy with how it came out. I installed the sunroof, the quarter glass and the new window channels. Also got all the lower trim installed.
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(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/564424_10103248856726964_124262572_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/538460_10103248856956504_348101467_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/538879_10103248857201014_1954830117_n.jpg)
The bed-lined floor:
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/418691_10103248857350714_1571826692_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/552088_10103248857540334_716629704_n.jpg)
"Wink"
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/538366_10103248857764884_1753010702_n.jpg)
Starting on the carpet:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/298758_10103248857954504_300680489_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/282065_10103324845704444_782069140_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548524_10103324846163524_1253756863_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/390441_10103324845355144_1190486799_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/73901_10103324845095664_1490423150_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/561086_10103324846512824_493173900_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/423634_10103324847301244_2007726572_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/403367_10103324848044754_683359718_n.jpg)
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/487637_10103324844766324_1763583736_n.jpg)
Dash and carpet are very dirty at the moment, but it's coming together...
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/206333_10103324847685474_470938412_n.jpg)
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Looks like the dash could use some armorall! The car is coming along nicely man.
I have some stock 750 Marchal Fogs with nice White covers...interested? Even have the wiring harness, but I'm guess you already have one.
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Looking good macdude! I like the use of the spirit front bumper with the flares, I should have done that too. :occasion14:
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Looking good macdude! I like the use of the spirit front bumper with the flares, I should have done that too. :occasion14:
That's how I got it. I don't really think it looks too bad. I have the right bumper, but the mounts are for a Spirit and they stick out too far. The correct mounts on the parts car turned to dust.
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Figured I'd post an update. Still have the headliner to repair, got a replacement thanks to Pa/sx4. i bought an AMC AM/FM/CB with it's antenna and mic from captspillane. It also included the AMC factory power amp upgrade for the factory radio (this was actually the main reason I bought it). We swapped out dash boards instead of fussing with all the mounts and connections. I installed the quartz clock in place of the dead tach while the dash was out. Still have to sort out the heater controls. The heat works, but you never know where it's going to come out of. I fixed the rear hatch latch, but still need to run a good ground. Captspillane was nice enough to allow me use of his garage and expertise while I was home. We changed the trans filter, installed a different starter, changed the transfer case fluid and the rear diff fluid. I need to finish painting the front end caps (for the rear), the new/correct bumper and get the correct bumper mounts sandblasted/painted/installed. I need to finally measure up the trim I'm missing and get it on, as well as the flare molding. I am going to undercoat the car using canoe's method of Penetrol + Waxoyl. Waiting for a warm day to tackle that. Finally, need to rebuild a transmission. Hoping to do that over the winter and have it ready to swap in when it gets warmer. The pan had a good amount of metal shavings in it and the filter was black. Also found a missing return spring on the kickdown.
She's inspected!
Here we are the other day. Can't help but drive her around, even with some minor cosmetic flaws:
(https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/222547_4533816711093_1631958149_n.jpg)
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Looking great man...the car that is! :)
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Macdude! It's time to update us! How's the car doing? I'm glad to know I'll be giving you a nice set of NOS fogs for this restoration. It is a beauty!
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I think this is the most recent photo I have.. Late summer, 2013:
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/1002965_10104684544821514_595926701_n.jpg)
I'm having the gas tank restored in the spring, since it started leaking above half-full. Doing the headlight mod, adding rear (maybe side) louvers. I put the Carter back on. The 2150 drove me nuts trying to dial it in. Need to put in an upper ball joint on the right side. Also rebuilt the wiper linkage with new bushings. The wipers have way too much play as-is. As mentioned above, I have the Marchal's on the way!
I found a set of rear endcaps, thanks to reverendbill and I hand sanded, painted and clear coated all the trim, since I couldn't find a suitable replacement.
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(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1381281_10105241259121594_753112842_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1380670_10105241258842154_1104664066_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1381951_10105241258427984_374618890_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1380658_10105241258243354_1890177680_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1391821_10105241260723384_303423855_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1379846_10105241259555724_470780813_n.jpg)
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Awesome! Looks like it's been out and about some! That's good to see! I forgot to mention it looks like a bunch of photos at the beginning of this thread are gone...
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Bump...
Any new updates? The photo gremlin >:D has eaten all of the photos :eagle:
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Hmm, let's see. I'll have to fix those bad links. She's still parked right now, but I've done a few things:
- Added OEM fog lights, thanks to Rafe.
- Working on wiring up gauge console (bought plumbing T and new sending unit/pressure switch.
- Bought all new rad and heater hoses (to be installed ASAP)
- Bought a spare shifter bezel that I have cleaned up and replaced the rubber on
- Have plans to switch out driver's seat lower frame as it leans awkwardly
- Had my stripped air cleaner sandblasted and powder coated, installed that way back
- Cleaned up the engine bay a little more but need to fix some wiring and add some new split loom
- Nearly NOS Sport rims, thanks to Capt. Spillane
- On the wait list for repro louvers. I have the plastic sides but my rear plastic is in rough shape.
- Had gas tank blasted and coated last year
Here are all the more recent photos I have:
Let's go back in time for a minute.. the day I bought it back in 2011:
(http://s21.postimg.org/febce47p3/Old_eagle.jpg)
Interior in 2011:
(http://s13.postimg.org/9ots150w7/old_interior.jpg)
This is after all the body work and paint with the proper front bumper, grille and bumper moldings:
(http://s22.postimg.org/gzab1x5ep/molding_done_old_fogs.jpg)
Doing some light off-roading:
(http://s23.postimg.org/mk1e9ierf/Laurel_Mountain_fogs.jpg)
(http://s16.postimg.org/lx7d0n6ph/Laurel_Mountain_fogs_off.jpg)
Rainy day on the PA turnpike:
(http://s24.postimg.org/4660x03h1/Rainy_turnpike.jpg)
Putting the sealed tank back in, 2013:
(http://s14.postimg.org/5eby15ksh/Gas_tank.jpg)
New fogs, 2014:
(http://s14.postimg.org/3wv33c5fl/Front_end_new_fogs.jpg)
My SX/4 and reverendbill's Jeep, 2014:
(http://s4.postimg.org/ttdanr1kd/Jeep_and_Eagle.jpg)
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Replacing hatch weatherstripping, 2014:
(http://s27.postimg.org/42ul5hvtv/weatherstrip.jpg)
Both of my Eagles together, 2014:
(http://s11.postimg.org/nsuf326zn/with_wagon.jpg)
Replacing Intake/Exhaust gaskets, 2014:
(http://s17.postimg.org/5j4odyrxb/gaskets.jpg)
New rims, 2014:
(http://s14.postimg.org/55slztt35/new_wheels_apartment.jpg)
Me at my car club's Halloween parade, 2014:
(http://s22.postimg.org/x9eptf15t/parade.jpg)
I think that's all of the images I have that I haven't posted. The better ones are all on slides or film and would need to be scanned.
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What did you do with your old Sport rims? They didn't look to be in bad shape...
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They were traded, plus cash, for the better ones. They weren't extremely bad, but they had been spray painted and were pitted.
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The pictures don't give them justice. They are pretty much New Old Stock condition. When I bought my white SX4 the owner had them tucked away in a corner of his garage. He had paid much more and I ended up talking him down to $600. I usually won't pay more than half that but these are exceptional.
His old set was mismatched. Some Eagle alloys have the black all the way to the center and some stop short. I had a mismatched set and with both together I now have two more matching sets.
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The pictures don't give them justice. They are pretty much New Old Stock condition. When I bought my white SX4 the owner had them tucked away in a corner of his garage. He had paid much more and I ended up talking him down to $600. I usually won't pay more than half that but these are exceptional.
His old set was mismatched. Some Eagle alloys have the black all the way to the center and some stop short. I had a mismatched set and with both together I now have two more matching sets.
That's right, that was another reason. One side didn't match the other, lol.
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where did you get your rear hatch seal and how is it performing anything you don't like about it?
and was install straight forward or was there some tricks to it
Thanks Dave
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The hatch seal was purchased from Restoration Specialties in Windber PA. It is a universal style. I drove there and they looked at it and that's what I went with. So far so good. No leaks. However the car doesn't see a lot of bad weather.
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Here is an updated picture I took Thursday after getting the hood aligned and painting the silver stripe along the hood/bezels. I bought new hood bumpers and insulation from Kennedy American.
(http://s2.postimg.org/ox15x5ord/IMG_2463.jpg)
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At the 2015 AMO show in Cleveland. Got a silver award in the driver class!
(http://s8.postimg.org/6q6pzzvkl/11694837_10109130818313794_2824049672037304724_n.jpg)
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Thought I would update this thread with a few pictures from the 2017 AMO show in Gettysburg, PA
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Was yours the only Eagle ? I see the Javelins but no other Eagles.
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Still looks great!!
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Not mine, I just visited. There were actually several Eagles in attendance.
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Thanks for the encouragement. It's good to know I'm not alone.
I decided I'd have a go at replacing my window sweeps. The door panel/interior side is held on with very heavy duty staples. I got them all off with no problems (besides sore fingers). I've read that some use pop rivets to re-attached. Has anyone done sweeps before? Any opinions on rivets vs. new staples?
To revise a post from long ago, I have a fun set and am about to install mine, any feedback on the method to install?
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When I replaced the sweeps on my TBird a few years back, the replacements were intended to be held on with staples. I used zip ties instead, and I was able to get a much tighter fit to the door panel. Don't get the ones that are too wide, they aren't as flexible and won't fit as tight. Good luck!!
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I just did the outer window sweeps on my SX/4. They don't fit real tight to my windows for some reason.
Probably don't need the inner sweeps yet, but where do you guys source them from?