AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Project Cars => Topic started by: shanebo on February 14, 2011, 02:06:14 AM
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well here she is guys. My recently purchaced...1983 Eagle S/W. I got a steal on her through the help of a fellow nest member.The motor purrs like a kitten.The body is near perfect, zero rust..there are a few dents in her that were previously mended with bondo. They are very minor..fixible with some very light body work and and sanding. The interior is great minus the headliner starting to droop by the sun visors and some carpet that has to be pulled tight and tucked back under the trim. I plan on replacing all hoses and vaccum lines and rotted rubber suspension components..brake system likely to need some attention as well...The biggest thing on my plate is the torque converter and some wiring issues...other than that a good solid project car...I will post my progress as i go. Here it is before anywork has started (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/006-5.jpg)
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I think Caroline was a little wishful when she was lookin at her when we were trying to charge the battery up, now I've got the bug in my ear to find some better leather front seats.... My driver seat is starting to fall apart, especially the fabric on the side.... Free power leather seats anyone?
One of these days I'll find a correct fender too....
Man I'm so jealous, but you deserve it :) Her subframe is in much better than mine, she tracks straight, the motor is VERY strong, and she's very quiet. Once she's good and ready for the street, take her often, she'll thank you for it :)
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Ginger is nice, great save. Will the next one be named, "Mary Ann"?
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Ginger is nice, great save. Will the next one be named, "Mary Ann"?
IE - that's some quick wit for 5:35 a.m.
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Its about the only time of day, anymore, where my brain is awake.
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One of these days I'll find a correct fender too....
Didn't that fender work for you that I pulled from the junk yard? That would be a bummer!
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One of these days I'll find a correct fender too....
Didn't that fender work for you that I pulled from the junk yard? That would be a bummer!
It did work, it bolted right up, and the paint is in great shape...the color doesn't match though... BUT, that's okay, just makes my car even more of a sleeper :D
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All right. Tonight I was going to put the new u joints in ginger but those babys are stuck...so tomorrow the entire drive shaft comes out and ill press them out :-\. While walking around I noticed that the left tail light was a bit off. and found where she must have gotten hit at one point and the metal was just a little tweaked causing some paint cracks. in those cracks I found some rust trying to make a home. no problem though..a few hammer taps, some naval jelly and sand paper and a bit of spray primer shes as good as new!!(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/005.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/006.jpg)
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While under the car I took theses shots...looks pretty darn clean for 28 years!!(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/007.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/008.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/010.jpg)
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While cleaning up in the spare tire area I noticed the floor of it was all cracked. When I went to investigate this stuff peeled up in chunks. It almost looks like it was once a rubberized sort of spray in liner. Now its the consistancy of peanut brittle. My heart fell when I first saw it cause it looked like body rot at first glance...Is this a stock thing or was it something after market? I never noticed it on any of my other wagons.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/017.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/019.jpg)
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While cleaning up in the spare tire area I noticed the floor of it was all cracked. When I went to investigate this stuff peeled up in chunks. It almost looks like it was once a rubberized sort of spray in liner. Now its the consistancy of peanut brittle. My heart fell when I first saw it cause it looked like body rot at first glance...Is this a stock thing or was it something after market? I never noticed it on any of my other wagons.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/017.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/019.jpg)
My wagon has the exact same thing going on, not as chunky, but it happens. I think that oil or solvents get spilled in that area and lift that stuff up
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Now, that's a tattoo ! 8)
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Nice tatoo! As to your real question, I don't know.
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While cleaning up in the spare tire area I noticed the floor of it was all cracked. When I went to investigate this stuff peeled up in chunks. It almost looks like it was once a rubberized sort of spray in liner. Now its the consistancy of peanut brittle. My heart fell when I first saw it cause it looked like body rot at first glance...Is this a stock thing or was it something after market? I never noticed it on any of my other wagons.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/017.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/019.jpg)
That is whats left of the factory ziebart coating. My concord has that stuff in the doors. Most of it fell off and was in the bottom of the doors.
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It did work, it bolted right up, and the paint is in great shape...the color doesn't match though... BUT, that's okay, just makes my car even more of a sleeper :D
Just one more thing on the Eagle to-do list. We wouldn't know what to do if everything was complete on our cars and we had nothing to fix or upgrade. Probably start taking it apart just so we could put it back together lol!
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It did work, it bolted right up, and the paint is in great shape...the color doesn't match though... BUT, that's okay, just makes my car even more of a sleeper :D
Just one more thing on the Eagle to-do list. We wouldn't know what to do if everything was complete on our cars and we had nothing to fix or upgrade. Probably start taking it apart just so we could put it back together lol!
There's never nothing to do on an Eagle :D Once it's all complete, do an EFI swap... Then, swaybars... then... brakes... then..... the list goes on.... :D
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My Eagle has some cracking like that in the spare tire area. Mine has not started peeling, but I am thinking maybe I should take care of it before it becomes a problem.
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Well guys just put in about 4 hours tonight with Ginger and Im only a fraction of the way done labeling ever individual vaccume line and wire in preperation of the upcoming motor and trans pull. Ive pulled and rebuilt 4 motors in my life but they were all late sixties early seventies vehicles. I aint gonna lie all these hoses are quite intimidating. I think the most frustrating part is all thos tiny hard plastic vaccume lines all over. Theres 4 so far that are just free hanging that i can not find where they were they are supposed to go to. one runs into the fire wall so my guess is its linked to the select trac some how, but I havent looked in the cabin area to see if thats it for sure. I need to get all of it out of the way so I can get to the exhaust inorder to drop the tranny. Once I get the motor and tranny out then Ill be in more familiar territory..Until I gotta hook it all back up again LOL. well wish me luck..Im hoping to have both out by next week.
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Well...Im mostly through labeling and disconnecting all the hoses and vaccume lines. Carb is off and Im fixin on pulling the intake and exaust manifolds hopefully tomorrow. its all down hill after after that... then out comes the transfer case and tranny.
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I may be free for a while saturday if you want some help... if you can spare a lil gasmoney.....
Why are you pulling the engine? Rebuild or swap? It runs excellently...
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Well guys just put in about 4 hours tonight with Ginger and Im only a fraction of the way done labeling ever individual vaccume line and wire in preperation of the upcoming motor and trans pull. Ive pulled and rebuilt 4 motors in my life but they were all late sixties early seventies vehicles. I aint gonna lie all these hoses are quite intimidating. I think the most frustrating part is all thos tiny hard plastic vaccume lines all over. Theres 4 so far that are just free hanging that i can not find where they were they are supposed to go to. one runs into the fire wall so my guess is its linked to the select trac some how, but I havent looked in the cabin area to see if thats it for sure. I need to get all of it out of the way so I can get to the exhaust inorder to drop the tranny. Once I get the motor and tranny out then Ill be in more familiar territory..Until I gotta hook it all back up again LOL. well wish me luck..Im hoping to have both out by next week.
The only other hard vacuum line trough the firewall would be for the hvac.
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I think im probably just going to do a light inframe rebuild instead of a pull...I want to replace all the gaskets(she leaks pretty bad) and put new rings rod bearings an hoses in her. Shes also geting a rebuilt trans, new brake system and possibly getting the t-case rebilt...I haven really looked at that yet though....once i get her running like a top and get the little bit of body and interior work she needs done I can start saving up to to the EFI swap ;D. Its gonna take a while but Its such a solid bodied car I can put all my time effort into the drive train instead of mending rust.
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Well tranny is getting close to being removed....a few more bolts and i should have it. The weather here is certainly hindering my progress though..its very cold and busted knuckels hurt twice as bad!!
By the way, any of you guys know if the tube off the cat that runs up the the air cleaner can be replaced or do I need a whole new cat. The tube is rusted thin as paper and It crumbled away. Tougeagle has offerd to help me put all these hoses back together when I get my tranny back from the shop...Ill tell ya my mechanical abilities are very much limited to pre 80's cars....once the emission control laws started Im lost with all thes hoses and wires!! Im sure glad to know someone that knows what theyre doin with that stuff!!
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Is there enough of the tube left at the Cat end to use one of those silicone hose repair kits?
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Theres about 1.5 inches or so..Im hoping so cause I really dont have the money for a new cat...but I got a whole laundry list of stuff transmission, gaskets ect...before im gonna get all twisted up about that thing.
I think I will try one of those though Doug... thanks for the idea ;D
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Well the exaust is officialy off. It was kinda hard working around all of those hoses...I would have just pulled them all off but after talking with tougeagle about them I decided to keep the car as it is. Im trying to keep everything at its point of origion cuz id never be able to remember where everything went. Ive decided that all Im gonna do motor wise is replace all the gaskets including rear main... its got a slight leak but I figure do it now while the tranny is out and relativly easy to get to.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/031.jpg)
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Well I found a place that will rebuild the tranny for a good price...now I just gotta finish getting it out.
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it looks like you do have the head bolt mounted idler tensioner... however, if you have plans of getting rid of your AC you can easy go to a v-belt setup and not have to worry about that bracket at all.
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Heres why the transfercase wasnt workin ;D(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/004-1.jpg)
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Yep, I figured as much... I remember looking under it months ago when he first showed it to me, and saw a few dangling lines and broken ports.
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is there any way to convert that to a manual ingauged t-casd and not have to mess with the vaccumes
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is there any way to convert that to a manual ingauged t-casd and not have to mess with the vaccumes
yeah. from what I understand, Grand cherokee transfer case linkage works, just have to do a little bending, etc, and be creative with it. You can also just use a 9/16" box wrench to turn the bolt on the lever of the t-case.
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I got the t-case out today. Im not sure if that vaccume cam that ingages and disingages the case is locked up or what its stuck in the ingaged position and even when I got it out I couldnt budge it. I could ingage the case manually with a wrench just fine though The plug in the side where the speedo goes into was removed and there was about an inch of very thick sledge in there and the fluid that drained out, was like choclate suryp...I think Id best give it a good goin through and cleaning before reuniting it with the new transmission.
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Still working on getting the tranny out down to a few bolts now :banghead:...I found that the vaccume lines to the transfer case were broke in several places..they are very brittle and have no flexibility left at all...I would love to put a manual mode of ingaging the 4x4...but if it proves to be too hard I can replace the vaccum lines too.
Ill tell ya'll one thing for sure though....Im gonna take her somewhere with a lift to put this tranny and T-case back in!! Tryin to do this stuff with only the extra foot of room my ramps give me is for the birds...and I dont mean Eagles ;D
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Tranny is out!!! not as bad as i had anticipated...I thought the bell housing bolts would give me more trouble but i used a ratchet with 3 extensions from the back of the tranny and i reached them quite easily...it did get hungup a bit on the dipstick tube and then hung a bit on the torque converter...it bent the back of the torque converter a bit but thats ok cuz its on my list of stff to replace anyway...its tuff pullin these things when you only got 2 ramps and trolly jack at your disposal.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/007-3.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/005-3.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/004-3.jpg)
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Noticed fly wheel teeth are a bit chewed up. Looks like the edges on the starter side of it are all chipped off. The starter looks to be original but seems to be in good working order..i wonder if the fly wheel is warped or somthing cuz its only tore up about a 1/4 of the wa around...Noticed something interesting on the starter as well...It has the AMC badge on the side but the inside is stamped Ford.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/005-2.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/006-2.jpg)
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they are Ford manufactured starters, if you listen to an 80s or 70s Ford start up, they sound exactly the same ;) It's normal for the corners of the teeth to be missing at times, as long as the tooth is still mostly intact. If you're missing entire teeth or large portions of teeth, you have a problem..
The joys of working with automatics x_x Struggled for a while to get the dipstick tube back into the tranny of a 2000s suburban I've been in the process of replacing the engine in... After pulling the tube out a quart of fluid came with it and it took three sheets of cardboard to keep from getting soaked in the stuff.
You can just leave the transfer case in 4x4 all the time, because it's really awd, just with the option to go to 2 wheel drive. it can be driven indefinitely, at any speed, in full time without a problem, and won't really hurt your mileage much. Considering the time of year, I'd just leave it in 4 wheel... Though, you'll have to lock the front axle in place, which is very easy to do...
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Congratulations. Yup, AMC used Motorcraft starters for many years.
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Man Im learning something new everyday!!! Ive had several Eagles in the past but Ive never done such in depth work to them before...I always had the money in the past to just pay someone else. I think that is what makes ginger special...I think her and I are going to be together for a long long time.
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Man Im learning something new everyday!!! Ive had several Eagles in the past but Ive never done such in depth work to them before...I always had the money in the past to just pay someone else. I think that is what makes ginger special...I think her and I are going to be together for a long long time.
It's one thing to own a car you really like and keep it maintained. It's another to own a car you love and maintain it yourself.... :)
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Ya couldnt have said it better...Its no fun laying under that thing for hours on end but when its all said and done theres no better feeling in the world!
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That night I started my Eagle for the first time in over a year, with the first run of the fuel injection (before upgrading fuel pump, injectors, exhaust, etc...) is one I will never forget... Cranked right over and sounded like a beast awakening from a slumber, nice deep rumble...
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Hit pay dirt today at the junk yard!! found to intact headlight buckets!!! and the chrome fender trim ive been needing....very fruitful day(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/004-4.jpg)also fuound the missing rubber bumper moulding rubber in real good shape but chrome stip need a little love(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/005-4.jpg)
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Great finds!
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Thus far in my project these headlight buckets are my most expensive purchace....51 bucks. I have been able to keep all my costs to a minimum by doing the work myself. I found a shop to rebuild my tranny for 300 bucks...would have been over a grand if they had to do the pullin...If I look at this project as a whole I get pretty overwealmed. My method for keeping my sanity during this project is to set small daily goals....and bit by bit this things comin together...I cant wait to get the drivetrain back together and get into fixin up the interior and doin the body work...as that is what I like to do.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/058.jpg)
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What are your plans for the interior? If you're interested in my seats, I'll deliver, for a lil gas monies...
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Id love to get those seats off ya....Were you able to get those other seats from that junk yard for your Eagle....and did that eagle happen to have descent back seats? Even if the color is different Im gonna have them re-done any way....Beside leather seats I want to get the headliner fixed, new carpet, and probably some guages...nothin real extreme...Someday down the road power windows and locks might be a possibility...but for now Im just gonna keep it simple......oh! and I want to get the windows tinted and a stereo too;D
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Anyone here converted manual to electric with the window?
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Anyone here converted manual to electric with the window?
Have not done it yet but the plan is to get rid of the dented rusty eagle doors that have manual windows/locks and change them out for the 4 doors off the old concord which has power windows/locks. Kind of a shame actually since the eagle doors function perfectly despite their massive dents and rust.
I imagine that the wiring will be the hard part.
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Thats what Im worried about...Electrical has never been a strong point of mine.
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From what I understand it's not a huge undertaking, at least, as far as wiring goes. As far as the mechanics ofit, that's different. You'd probably have to be lucky enough to find an eagle with power window/lock doors with the same color, from a junkyard, as the motors are riveted inside the door and I think the glass is secured in a different way.
I haven't had the chance to go yet, I'm going to soon though if I can, been way too busy at the shop lately (which is why I'm up so late :( ) I'll let you know when I do though, I definitely kinda want cinnamon back, my seats are a hair lighter, and since you're gettingj them redone anyway I'll just tell you up front the driver's side is pretty rough....
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The motors are rivited in, but it's not hard to drill out the rivets and replace them with cap screws.
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I know that there isn't a whole lot of room for storage with the spare, but could it be leftovers from what a previous owner put there?
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No worries man...Ive been super busy at the funeral home as well as the store so Ginger hasn't been getting the attention she needs either.....I was trying to work on her for at least 2 hours a night....but when I get off work at the store at 7pm then work at the funeral home till 11PM or later I'm just not up got goin out in a cold garage and turnin' wrenches. Besides that The upcoming projects for Ginger are the valve cover gasket, the oil pan gasket, and the rear main...all jobs Id like to get done in one shot...not drawn out over a couple nights....that kind of stuff id rather do in daylight fully rested. I'm holding off on the head gasket...It shows no sign of needing one and I am not wanting to risk any troubles with the head bolts at this time.
I'm not worried at all about the tears in the D.S. seat...Its a power seat!!! that's what I'm after!!! I'm gonna just leave the seats that are in Ginger there and save my money up and get the replacement seats reupholstered one at a time....hopefully an a few months time Ill have em all redone and then I can make the swap. I think its about 400 per seat but I'm sparing no expense on Ginger....I'm keepin her for a long time!
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I would love power D.L. and P.W. in ginger but that will probably be one of the last things to get done....the cranks work fine and I rarely ever lock my car....I really just want them to say I have them. I used to always lock my doors but in my 82 coupe someone smashed out the window to steel a pack of cigarettes >:(...After that I just figured if someone wants somthing in it they're gonna take it....rather not be out a window on top of what ever they take. :-\
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Today I got ginger out of the garage and down to the the car wash...had a bit of a mishap which ill post about in the "dont do this" section. I got most of the crusted oil off the engine and got her vaccumed out...which was tricky as she was on a dolly. The interior cleaned up nice but it really does need new carpet and headliner, and id really like power leather seats. In due time though. Gotta get her running good first and I think this oil pan gaskets gonna be a real doozie!! Plus I lost a few of my labels on the vaccum lines at the car wash.... :censored:!!
(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/008-4.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/007-6.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/009-3.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/010-1.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/005-5.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/006-5.jpg)
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I drained the tranny finally...what came out was....well....bad. It looked more like chunky choclate pudding than tranny fluid....Its going to need a good cleaning out at least...here's the consistency...bear in mind this was a clean drain pan when I dumped the trannys contents into it(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/012-1.jpg)
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By the way...down the road, when I get ginger fitted with her new/old reupholsterd, power, pillowy, oh so beautiful leather seats, the seats that are in her now will likely be up for grabs in the freeby section...but like I said its quite a ways off....unless that is I hit the powerball...in that case were all getting new seats!!
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By the way...down the road, when I get ginger fitted with her new/old reupholsterd, power, pillowy, oh so beautiful leather seats, the seats that are in her now will likely be up for grabs in the freeby section...but like I said its quite a ways off....unless that is I hit the powerball...in that case were all getting new seats!!
i'm gonna go to the yard this coming Monday to pick up the seats for my wagon, at which point my current ones will be completely available. Either you can come and pick them up completely free, or toss a lil gas coin my way and I'll bring them to you.
Don't plan on getting that oil pan gasket done in a day, whatever you do. I had nocoeagle's help in replacing his oil pan gasket, cylinder head gasket, valve cover gasket, and rear main and it still took over _40_ hours, a full week, and we both know our way around these things. You will need an assortment of large prybars, along with a good accurate torque wrench.. And get the one piece gasket, not the multipiece crap. Also, as cheap as they are, don't go for the cork valve cover gaskets unless you plan to use rtv on both valve cover and head, making it a pain later on during removal. My 4.0 valve cover leaks already, thanks to that.
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Yeah...I just got the specs on the oil pan job...it looks more like a week job...no problem though rather get it done right than quick. By the way is the rear main a one piece on theses motors???
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Yeah...I just got the specs on the oil pan job...it looks more like a week job...no problem though rather get it done right than quick. By the way is the rear main a one piece on theses motors???
Rear main is a two piece, you have to remove the rear crank bearing cap to get to it, after removing the oilpan. One piece is in the cap and one is in the block. Make absolutely positive you take note of which direction they face when you remove them, or you will hate life when you get it all back together and it leaks...Use the little white plastic thing that will come in the bag with the halves, it is your FRIEND
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cool...thanks for the help man!! It may be a while before I Get the oil pan off my work schedule has been nuts!! I dont get home till after dark and I really dont want to tackle that in the dark!!
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HI I cant believe that I haven't told you how nice your car looks I was checking out the work your doing .That is a good looking car ...the rear seal would Nice if one piece but it isn't ...I have the pan off one right now ......I wished It was warmer so I could work on it day dreamer .......Don
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Thank you don ;D I really appreciate that...I sure like her. Right now I'm at yet another cross road in my project. Its time to change the oil pan gasket... I'm really dreading it!! I still have a few more questions though before I can confidently start this undertaking. The most burning question at this time is where would I hook the hoist chains to the engine...Should I hook the chain to a manifold bolt or is there a better sturdier location to hook it to. I really dont want to mess anything up!!! Ive never pulled a strait 6 before only 4 bangers and v8's...and both had eyelets to hook a chain to
Thanx
Shane
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Thank you don ;D I really appreciate that...I sure like her. Right now I'm at yet another cross road in my project. Its time to change the oil pan gasket... I'm really dreading it!! I still have a few more questions though before I can confidently start this undertaking. The most burning question at this time is where would I hook the hoist chains to the engine...Should I hook the chain to a manifold bolt or is there a better sturdier location to hook it to. I really dont want to mess anything up!!! Ive never pulled a strait 6 before only 4 bangers and v8's...and both had eyelets to hook a chain to
Thanx
Shane
the best way to do it that I've found is by removing the large bolt in the middle of the motor mount on each side, bolting the load leveler to it, then unbolting the engine from the subframe, leaving the motor mounts on the block. This must be done with the manifolds removed. DO NOT use a manifold bolt hole to lift the engine, you will not be able to balance it properly. You will need some additional length on the load leveler chains, but you can pick up chain and quick links (use same size chain) for cheap at a hardware store, at least, for the length you'll need. There is an eyelet on the front of the block just above the oil pan, on the spark side, just behind the timing cover, and another that should be directly opposite of that at the rear of the block, though it will require some creativity. You could use a transmission bolt and bolt the rear to the block, at the large hole on the side, or even use the axle bracket mount holes if you want. you need to have the manifolds off though.
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HI the best way that I know of is In the back of the head there is a 3/8 bolt hole and in front of head the same 3/8 bolt hole .. put the leveler on the two bolts and lift you have the traney off so its an easy pull .that is the way I do it .hope it helps ........Don
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Good info fellas!!! the engine is sitting safely on a stand eagerly awaiting a good going through a clean up and a fresh coat of paint...No mishaps what so ever ;D ;DI gotta pull the half shafts and front axle out tomorrow..check them all out and get em all cleand up and painted as well....
Ill tell ya what though...between the tranny and the engine leaks there were areas that had a good inch of grime built up...Im gonna need a jack-hammer to get through some of this stuff
Now if I can remember how the thing goes back together Ill be on easy street! LOL..I may be posting alot of questions here in a few weeks ;D
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HI glad to hear every thing went well I Reilly like the way your doing this car .The right way its so good to see it fixed right............Don
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Ya know Don...I originaly was just going to fix the tranny and hit the road.....But Ginger is 28 years old and stuff is going to wear out...The way I see it I could have just done what was minimaly needed to drive her and spend the rest of my life tearing her down ever few months to fix somthing..or...just buckle down and redo everything and be able to drive her confidently for years to come.
Plus I always wanted a brand new Eagle...I was 9 when the last new eagle ever was sold....When I pull Ginger out of the garage, I want to feel like Im pulling of the Owen Faricy sales floor in 1983.
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I went outside tonight and just sat in Ginger for like an hour...There is something about Eagles that just feels good. They have a fit and a feel like no other car!!!
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I went outside tonight and just sat in Ginger for like an hour...There is something about Eagles that just feels good. They have a fit and a feel like no other car!!!
When in the midst of the efi conversion I did that constantly. Every time I went to the garage to smoke I sat in Caroline and just daydreamed about what it would be like to finally drive her. It's very bittersweet though, she's fast and handles very well but is extremely rough around the edges...
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No doubt...If I sat down and made a list of every single thing ginger needed to make her like new, I would probably have a 30 page list. Im gonna get the motor and tranny done...then Ill move on to the axles and all the steering components and vaccum lines and so on. Body and Interior are last on the agenda.
Right now Im kinda frustrated cuz I really cant do anymore until I save up some cash to buy the gasket kit. I had to put myself in check today as I found myself getting very obsessive... I was out there starting to pull trim cuz there was nothoing more I could do with the drive train right now. I had to stop and say tomyself...Whoa!! what am I doing!? If I start moving too far ahead and getting like 20 partial projects going at once stuff is gonna get misplaced or broken. I need to stay focused on one goal at a time here.
Im getting a little squirrely too cuz I know know ive lost a few labels on the vaccum lines and others have become disconnected durring the engine pull....I have a tendency to sit and dwell on things like that. Its a good thing I have the Nest...Id be going absolutly crazy If I was doing this alone...Thanx for all the support guys!!
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Spent an hour or so with a plastic scraper today getting the crud off the engine...ill bet i scraped close to a half pound or so of caked on grime off the engine...This weekend i replace the oilpan gasket....still debating on head gasket...a new one comes in the kit im buying...Id hate to get into bolt issues though...a gamble no doubt(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/004-6.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/002.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/005-6.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/003.jpg)
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Im pretty tempted to replace the water pump too...it has a a slight catch in the pully when turned not bad but it would be a very easy fix at this point in the project.
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Im pretty tempted to replace the water pump too...it has a a slight catch in the pully when turned not bad but it would be a very easy fix at this point in the project.
That is exactly what I would do at this point. I would also change the bearing in that idler pulley and the thermostat as well. Also the block heater is so easy to replace while the engine is sitting there like that but I do not see one there so I am guessing that it is not needed for yours.
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Im pretty tempted to replace the water pump too...it has a a slight catch in the pully when turned not bad but it would be a very easy fix at this point in the project.
HI Shane I do know water pumps .WE did a test on water pumps from over the counter .we foundthat compane pumps were better than cheep after market pumps .AMC pumps are hard to find . If you can find an AMC rebuild you can see the difference betwan the two ...THE cheepeys fins will be different and willpump less . that means less cooling so when you get a pump get a good one ..please...............Don
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Take some purple power and a power washer to that engine :D. Good time to hose down the dogbone and front end too, never hurts to have a cleaner job. Looks like you're making tons of progress :)
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Thats exactly what i was thinking too ;D...I plan on keeping Ginger for a long time...and its inevidable all that stuff will need replacing eventually...I can do it all now in a few short hours or I can do it down the road 1 part at a time and waste weeks tearing everything back apart....plus Its just plain easier to do a good when stuff is accessable.
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All right guys I just took some pictures...hoping for some opinions. Here is a picture...not a very good one...of the cam shaft through the fuel pump opening...does this look normal...I know its pretty hard to teel from the pic(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/002-1.jpg)
The valves look really cruddy!! they look to have a half centimeter of build up on them...(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/007-7.jpg)
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(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/004-7.jpg)
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I cant really tell if the lobes on the cam are worn or not...I guess Ill just have to pull it out and look....at any rate it could sure use a good cleaning.
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Looks like the internals need a good cleaning too. If you can afford it, anything that is hard to get at when the engine is back in the car would be a candidate for replacement, if replacement seems indicated within a year or so. I'm on the fence with the head, but now might be a good time to rebuild it while the engine is out.
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My biggest fear is those head bolts...Ive heard those front 2 bolts are not easy to come by....but the motor is in SERIOUS need of some cleaning....It just seems this whole engine pull would be in vane if I dont go through the entire thing top to bottom...inside and out.
Ive found 7/16 head bolts...its just those front two that the pully bolts to that Im concerned about....worst case senario I delete the a/c and relocate the pully. Im pretty creative ;D
Im going for it!!! Ive got nothing but time. I can get a full rebuild kit...cam, rod bearings, gaskets, rings and all the other goodies for around 500$ that would be a good start. then save up some more cash and get the heads machined. Anything I do to it now will pay off big time down the road
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The heads came off beautifully...The bolts are virtually perfect no stretching, no breaks no problems!! ;D...However the pass. side head bolts came out covered in a very tarry oil and smelled very burnt!! the front bolt on the drivers side came out a bit rusty..but OK. When the head was removed It was very apparent the head gasket was in the early stages of failure. The #4 piston showed signs of coolant getting in, and all the sleeves are very glazed and a honing will do them wonders...I'm not gonna lie, I was sweating bullets the whole time I was wrenching those bolts off but i am so Glad I decided to tear the motor down further...lots of issues that need attention here....over all a very productive day(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2019.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2017.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2016.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2015.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2014.jpg)
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Wiped the piston walls with a diesel soaked rag ,most of the rust wiped away..no pitting is visible...Im keeping my fingers crossed!!(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2018.jpg)
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HI Shane were you planing on having the block hot tanked ..The gap on the pistons looks good from here .looks better than mine did. every thing looks good .you can tell it has some miles on it ..............Don
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My biggest fear is those head bolts...Ive heard those front 2 bolts are not easy to come by....but the motor is in SERIOUS need of some cleaning....It just seems this whole engine pull would be in vane if I don't go through the entire thing top to bottom...inside and out.
Ive found 7/16 head bolts...its just those front two that the pully bolts to that Im concerned about....worst case senario I delete the a/c and relocate the pully. Im pretty creative ;D
I'm going for it!!! Ive got nothing but time. I can get a full rebuild kit...cam, rod bearings, gaskets, rings and all the other goodies for around 500$ that would be a good start. then save up some more cash and get the heads machined. Anything I do to it now will pay off big time down the road
HI I think your right go for it ..the head bolts one of mine was broke so I went to jeep dealer they had them .. your right about doing it right IT will save time and money in the long run.
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HI I don't want seam like a smart :censored:.but I don't know your level on cars .. do you know that whin you take off the rod caps make sure there marked for the cyl they cam out of and the rod cap goes on that rod ....I do not know if you know this and I did not want you to make the same mistake that some one else made on there first one...........Don
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Looks like good progress is being made. Did you keep the pushrods in order so they go back in as before?
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My biggest fear is those head bolts...Ive heard those front 2 bolts are not easy to come by....but the motor is in SERIOUS need of some cleaning....It just seems this whole engine pull would be in vane if I dont go through the entire thing top to bottom...inside and out.
Ive found 7/16 head bolts...its just those front two that the pully bolts to that Im concerned about....worst case senario I delete the a/c and relocate the pully. Im pretty creative ;D
Im going for it!!! Ive got nothing but time. I can get a full rebuild kit...cam, rod bearings, gaskets, rings and all the other goodies for around 500$ that would be a good start. then save up some more cash and get the heads machined. Anything I do to it now will pay off big time down the road
HIGHLY suggest at this point that you go with a 4.0 cam and lifters, and pushrods. A brand new 4.0 cam is approx 180 dollars from autozone, lifters are around 12 bucks a piece, and pushrods are pretty cheap. The cam is a direct swap from the 258, and you'll see a noticible increase in power... just something to consider...
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The 4.0 cam does not, I believe, have a fuel pump lobe so you will also need an electric fuel pump and a block off plate if you go that route.
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The 4.0 cam does not, I believe, have a fuel pump lobe so you will also need an electric fuel pump and a block off plate if you go that route.
Ahh, that's right, thanks IE, totally forgot about that part :P
A decent 40 gph electric 7-12 psi pump can be had from Ebay for pretty darn cheap, same with a small block chevy block off plate/gasket.
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I learned that rod cap thing the hard way on a little junk yard datsun I rebuilt...spent all summer on that rusty old z car.....I had that engine tore down to the block like 3 times...It was my first car project...Im by no means a master mechanic so ANY input or suggestions are highly appreciated!!! This is my 6th eagle but the first one I have tore into...Im finding AMC put their own twist on alot of stuff.!
Thanks for lookin out...I am so lucky to have so many seasoned Eagle vets in one spot to keep a watchful eye on my project!! ;D I know I have avoided several big mistakes thanks to info from fellow nesters!!
Thank you all ;D
Shane
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I am so doing the conversion!!! Id be a fool not to at this point. I know its a bit early in the project to think about this..but do you think the stock tranny will handle the extra power or should I start looking at an upgrade to a stouter more capable tranny....Id love an O/D!!
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Ok.. the oil pan is off! Ginger is a dirty girl!...lots of sledge in the pan and inside the block. Its definatly going to the hot tank!! If Im gonna sink this kind of time and money into this car im gonna start with a clean slate...or should I say clean block!! The oil pan has a pretty good dent in the bottom..she ran over somthing big..Ive seen worse but I really dont like the looks of it.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2023.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2020.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2021.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2022.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2023-1.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2024.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2026.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2028.jpg)
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Honestly, there really isn't much sludge there, ;) it's just stained. Probably went a grand or two over on an oil change, definitely not terrible though, by any means. You should see what a GM v6 that has suffered lower intake gasket leaks (thanks to dexcool) looks like.... the oil itself looks like an orange dreamsicle, and there is black, thick stick grime caked on everything...
Definitely consider going to a 4.0 cam if it's not too late, you'll thank yourself later. The lobes are twice the size of that puny 258 cam, and it's an extremely cheap upgrade. You (except for one cam) won't find a better aftermarket grind, they're all made to produce low end torque, not streetable midrange and high end power. An electric fuel pump for a carb application is very cheap, along with the easy to find SBC blockoff plate, since the 4.0 cam doesn't have a fuel pump lobe
A BG MOA treatment, along with a few other detergents, will clean all of that stuff out of the block...
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I havent gotten anything as of yet...Im still in the tear down/clean up stage...im also ivestigating as to weather the stock tranny will handle the increase in power. Ill probably pick up the cam in the next few weeks...then I need to scrounge up a mid 90's jeep to ravage!! This is not going to be a quick process...mostly due to financial restrictions...but Im gonna get that ball rollin on the conversion.
By the way...did yours have the 7/16 head bolts?
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I havent gotten anything as of yet...Im still in the tear down/clean up stage...im also ivestigating as to weather the stock tranny will handle the increase in power. Ill probably pick up the cam in the next few weeks...then I need to scrounge up a mid 90's jeep to ravage!! This is not going to be a quick process...mostly due to financial restrictions...but Im gonna get that ball rollin on the conversion.
By the way...did yours have the 7/16 head bolts?
Yeah it does. I didn't even use the head spacers this last time, they're just for getting the gasket straight. Are you planning on a 4.0 head/efi conversion?
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Absolutly!! I definatly want to do it...And now is the optimal time to do it while the whole drive trains out. Ill be getting the 4.0 cam next check..then its off to the junkyard to find intake/exhaust manifold and the 4.0 heads...as well as the computer.
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Honestly, there really isn't much sludge there, ;) it's just stained. Probably went a grand or two over on an oil change, definitely not terrible though, by any means. You should see what a GM v6 that has suffered lower intake gasket leaks (thanks to dexcool) looks like.... the oil itself looks like an orange dreamsicle, and there is black, thick stick grime caked on everything...
Definitely consider going to a 4.0 cam if it's not too late, you'll thank yourself later. The lobes are twice the size of that puny 258 cam, and it's an extremely cheap upgrade. You (except for one cam) won't find a better aftermarket grind, they're all made to produce low end torque, not streetable midrange and high end power. An electric fuel pump for a carb application is very cheap, along with the easy to find SBC blockoff plate, since the 4.0 cam doesn't have a fuel pump lobe
Touge - are you saying that the 4.0 cam and parts can go right into a 258 ?? I am sorry as to not catching this somewheres else, I am sure you have covered it before : )
A BG MOA treatment, along with a few other detergents, will clean all of that stuff out of the block...
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Honestly, there really isn't much sludge there, ;) it's just stained. Probably went a grand or two over on an oil change, definitely not terrible though, by any means. You should see what a GM v6 that has suffered lower intake gasket leaks (thanks to dexcool) looks like.... the oil itself looks like an orange dreamsicle, and there is black, thick stick grime caked on everything...
Definitely consider going to a 4.0 cam if it's not too late, you'll thank yourself later. The lobes are twice the size of that puny 258 cam, and it's an extremely cheap upgrade. You (except for one cam) won't find a better aftermarket grind, they're all made to produce low end torque, not streetable midrange and high end power. An electric fuel pump for a carb application is very cheap, along with the easy to find SBC blockoff plate, since the 4.0 cam doesn't have a fuel pump lobe
Touge - are you saying that the 4.0 cam and parts can go right into a 258 ?? I am sorry as to not catching this somewheres else, I am sure you have covered it before : )
A BG MOA treatment, along with a few other detergents, will clean all of that stuff out of the block...
The 4.0 cam is mentioned in my swap, but I (kicks self) never took pics of the cams side by side or of the install of the cam itself. Yes, the 4.0 (use a 1992 if possible, best grind) cam has its cam gear key in exactly the same location (so there is no need to degree the cam) as the 258 cam, and slides right into the block. They use the same bolt, and same size gear. Though, you most definitely need to upgrade your timing set, to a roller set at least. MAKE SURE you also grab the pushrods and lifters from the same engine you grabbed the cam from, and keep them all in order according to cylinder. The rockers don't matter, they're interchangeable between the 258, 4.0 and AMC V8s. Your engine will pull hard to redline with that cam, as it is ground to make max horsepower at 5000 rpm (redline is 5250) vs 2800 with the 258 cam, which makes it very fun to wrap out, because it doesn't peter out at all.
As stated in a previous post though, you should go for a new cam, lifters and pushrods, from autozone, they carry 4.0 stock cams new. If you can't get a new one, pull one from a junkyard vehicle with a clean looking engine (pull valve cover, head etc...) and inspect the lobes for signs of strange or uneven wear.
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Im getting pretty exited about starting this project!!! I was also meaning to ask you too...What computer components to I need to grab...and were are they located on the Jeep. Im fixin on getting this project rollin soon!!
Thanx
shane
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HI Shane there are two things you haven't talked about .Cam bearings they need to come out before hot tank..and valve springs .I learned the hard way in our race motor we lost a half a secant and my son sad it was the springs i sad o bull so that week we pulled the heads and had the springs tested . they were bad .we put new ones in and the next Saturday at marten race way we picked the time + we did our best with that car 11:90 flat you get the point Don
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Thanks Touge. I would definetly be going new with all the parts if I am rebuilding the motor. I still have to figure out what it is that is sitting strapped to the dolly I got from Smitty with the Money Pit II. It looks like a new head , an old block, and all of the fuel injection stuff in one big pile bungied to it.........after getting the tranny back in and the car running I now see some moisture in the oil , on the dip stick.......and a slight, very slight knocking....ran sea foam in it last night and changing the oil and filter out again today , and go from there.
sorry bout hyjacking your thread Shanebo !
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No worries 68amxgopac!! ;D
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Good save Don!! I had no idea about that...heres an egg for saving me a hard lesson in the new future!
Also I was wondering...
1. can I get a 92' jeep 4.0 cam at a parts store or will I have to go find one in a yard.
2. What computer parts will I need to rob from the donor jeep, and where is it located on the jeep?
3. The water ports are differnt between the 4.2 and 4.0. ...I know theres something with packing peanuts and JB weld but im not sure exactly what I do with those. I want to be 100% sure before I start packing JB Weld into the head!!
Thanx
shane
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Good save Don!! I had no idea about that...heres an egg for saving me a hard lesson in the new future!
Also I was wondering...
1. can I get a 92' jeep 4.0 cam at a parts store or will I have to go find one in a yard.
2. What computer parts will I need to rob from the donor jeep, and where is it located on the jeep?
3. The water ports are differnt between the 4.2 and 4.0. ...I know theres something with packing peanuts and JB weld but im not sure exactly what I do with those. I want to be 100% sure before I start packing JB Weld into the head!!
Thanx
shane
1. yes, you should be able to get one through Autozone. If not, then a junkyard or Ebay is your next best bet. Either way, make sure you get the specs on the cam before purchase to make sure it is what you expect it to be instead of a Renix cam or something. ]
2. If you are sticking with an autotragic configuration, you'll probably want to swap over to the AW4, or expensive crank damper and sensor, or if you wish to keep the stock Eagle tranny, maybe someone here can chime in as to whether or not the bells are interchangeable, because if so, you can use an AW4 bell for the cps mount and keep your tranny without having to worry about wiring for an AW4. If manual, you'd either have to buy the crank damper from hesco or swap in an AX15. My AX15 and parts (clutch, flywheel) cost almost the same as what they now charge for the damper and sensor. Either way, you will need the entire engine wiring harness from the firewall plug out, including the leads that run to the transfer case and transmission. DO NOT CUT ANYTHING in the engine bay if you can help it. The engine computer is located on the driver side fender facing the engine bay, if I remember correctly. Either way, if you lift the hood, you will see it, it has a very large connector with a hex head bolt going through that connector. The computer will be bolted somewhere off to the side. You will need to grab all sensors that harness was connected to (except oil pres):
Cam sensor inside distributor. Grab whole distributor
coil (located exactly where mechanical fuel pump bolts up on 4.2)
crank sensor on bellhousing toward top, driver side
Throttlebody (IAC and TPS)
Fuel injectors (for a mockup, but stock jeep injectors flow too little, you should use 24lb/hr injectors)
two wire coolant temp sensor on thermostat housing (make sure you grab that too)
single wire coolant temp sensor toward rear of head (for gauge)
MAP sensor, bolted to bulkhead above valvecover
IAT (intake air temp) sensor located in intake manifold
O2 sensor (buy that new), would be located about 3-4" down from collector outlet, on exhaust pipe.
There's a certain sensor on the transfer case that's for automatics, I don't remember what it's called, but if you choose to go with an AW4, chances are you'll have to change to a newer t-case in order to have that sensor.
3. The only two holes you absolutely are not allowed to fill on the gasket side of the head are the two enlongated water jackets located directly at the rear of the head. The three triangular ports around each studbore are fine to fill, though you would only need to do the two closest to the edge. Technically, a 4.0 head gasket seals all jackets up except for those two at the rear of the head. The gasket covers over the rest of them. If you purchase a gasket then place it on the head, you'll see what I mean.
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HI I was going to recommend tougeagle post on 4.0 head swap .and I saw another one the outher day
they welded the holes up and the other one was they drilled out the holes round and used fries plugs
I like the J B weld but I would fell better if I could get all the packing out before the head goes on.
I get parts from Quadratec.com they have good parts candy store ......there is outher ways to get
parts .I went to a junk yard and bough a wrecked Cherokee pulled out motor trans and transfer case
To go in my 89Comanche .and the 4.0 that came out is for parts.and i sold what was left of the kee
I paid 650 for the wreck and got what i wanted off and sold it for 250 so motor trans and transfer for
400..... I got the computer wires ever thing i needed ..or you can go to the jeep parts they have
every thing new cam kit I will get back to you later my eyes are hurting.....Don
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HI Im back I think I have Macaulay something. its holes in your retina . and they are hurting today I have to use a magnifying glass to read the post..I go to the Jeep dealer parts dept. they were cheaper then auto zone here ..the Cherokee that i bough was a 96 wrecked in the back ....I had trouble with the timing we put in the motor and it would not run .we had to use my fly wheel for it to run this is 4.0 I the computer ther is a chip called a prom that is what you have to change if you go E F I ......toug eagle covered so good .............Don
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Thanks for all that info guys!! I really appreciate it!! ;D Ill probably keep the stock rebuilt tranny for now....Ill probably upgrade down the road though...I got alot of research (and saving) to do before I tackle a tranny swap.
Hey Tougeagle...Once I get all the parts rounded up and reassembaled, If I throw you some cash would you be available to help me wire up the computer some time...Id be more than happy to pay for your gas and time....Its just that Me and electronics DO NOT get along...I can totally see me frying something. ;D
I was also kinda curious..does this coversion freak out the Eagles primitive computer in any way?...Oh, and do I want 4.2 lifters or 4.0.
I went to autozone today and got a 4.0 head gasket...I inquired about cams...they had one model of cam for 91-95 jeeps a Melling I believe.
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Thanks for all that info guys!! I really appreciate it!! ;D Ill probably keep the stock rebuilt tranny for now....Ill probably upgrade down the road though...I got alot of research (and saving) to do before I tackle a tranny swap.
Hey Tougeagle...Once I get all the parts rounded up and reassembaled, If I throw you some cash would you be available to help me wire up the computer some time...Id be more than happy to pay for your gas and time....Its just that Me and electronics DO NOT get along...I can totally see me frying something. ;D
I was also kinda curious..does this coversion freak out the Eagles primitive computer in any way?...Oh, and do I want 4.2 lifters or 4.0.
I went to autozone today and got a 4.0 head gasket...I inquired about cams...they had one model of cam for 91-95 jeeps a Melling I believe.
You won't be using the Eagle computer if you do the efi swap, you'll be using the jeep computer. The eagle computer and entire engine wiring harness will be removed. I can probably try and set aside some time if I can keep my boss from putting me on more projects after I finish the Audi tonight. The 4.0 gasket is the right one. Ask for the 92 cam specifically if you can, and if they can't give you that specific year, but it is a 91-95 (their grinds are almost identical), make sure to get the same year pushrods and lifters, there was some pushrod length variation. Pushrods and lifters always go with the cam. The melling camshaft is the one you want, they make stock grinds.
Also, to answer teneagle, you use water soluble packing peanuts, they dissolve into the coolant and do not tint it.
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Much appreciated man!!!....I wont be at the computer stage for quite a while....probably a few months atleast. Lots of stuff to buy and get machined and cleaned...Thanx again!!
Also i wanted to personally thank you too Don!! ;D You guys have saved me from alot of huge mistakes and hours of wasted time!!
Take care
shane
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Well here it is, the first (and cheapest) part of my 4.0 EFI upgrade!! The coveted 4.0 Felpro head gasket ;D(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2033.jpg)
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I had three of those hanging up in my garage at one time. All of them unusable. Moral of the story: fill the water jackets properly. Do not reuse head bolts. Have help setting the head on the block :P
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I hear ya Don!!! I like working on Ginger and all but one head gasket job is about all I care to do!! Luckily the head will go on while the engine is still out....Now weather or not I get the water jacket thing right the first time is a whole other story!!...May end up with a great post for the "dont do this" section ;D
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Ive been going crazy waiting to save up the money to get Gingers engine hot tanked. I tinkered around with her today and pulled off the fender trim on one side to see what was all under there (good or bad)...I found a kinda bad suprise.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2035.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2036.jpg)... very minor as far as rust goes...and im an ok body guy, so Im not real worried about it. Looks like someone used sheet metal screw t pull out a dent :-\
I had to pull off the tire to get the trim off so I decided to take a peak at the brakes. The guy I bought it from mentioned the rear brakes were a bit noisy...Looks like new drums in Gingers future(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2038.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2037.jpg)
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Yup, looks like rear brake overhaul time.
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I just thought of another upgrade question too guys....Will I need a 4.0 oil pump or will a 4.2 oil pump still work in it....Either way its getting a new one..just need need to know which.
Ill tell ya what.. I would be having a whole lot more funwith this project if I had a big fat bank roll in my pocket...this build on a budget stuff is sure frustrating!!!
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Ive changed brake pads and shoes before but thats about as far as ive gone with brake work. Im guesing the calipers and other components are pretty much toast as well...I guess Ill be getting a crash course in brake system repair...(hopefully not literally) I hope the brake hardware and components are still readily available for these things.
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4.2 oil pump to work with the 4.2 oil pickup tube to work with the eagle pan. Eagle oilpans are car specific.
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Thanx Mudkicker!! Are they still available/rebuildable.
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All the brake stuff is stil available , includeing the hold down kits with all the springs etc. , for the rear drum brake system.The drums themselves are expensive. I got all mys tuff from NAPA ........even the emergency brake cables from the pedal back too.
Good luck with it man, it isn't that tough, and outside of the actual drums, not all that expensive considering what you would pay at a shop !!
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Brake rebuilding components are fairly easy to come by and relatively inexpensive. The drums will be the most costly part.
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I just thought of another upgrade question too guys....Will I need a 4.0 oil pump or will a 4.2 oil pump still work in it....Either way its getting a new one..just need need to know which.
Ill tell ya what.. I would be having a whole lot more funwith this project if I had a big fat bank roll in my pocket...this build on a budget stuff is sure frustrating!!!
mudkicker is right I gave him an egg .....that is some nice looking 22 cal holes in your car did you check where they went to ..+??? sorry i am late but i am good at that ...the auto zone hear try ed to charge me $ 60.00
per drum and I sad no and went to mom and pop parts store and paid $24.00 each .there was 3 rangers of shoes
good better best ..what ever your comfortable with..hard ware kits if you need them........Don
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Thanx Mudkicker!! Are they still available/rebuildable.
Eagle oil pans are = to hens teeth.
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I'm hoping my oil pan is going to be salvageable..it hit something big a some point...As long as It seal up OK Ill be happy. I can lead in the dents and paint for cosmetic purposes and worse comes to worse might have to use some good silicone on top of the gasket to achieve a leak free seal.
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I'm hoping my oil pan is going to be salvageable..it hit something big a some point...As long as It seal up OK Ill be happy. I can lead in the dents and paint for cosmetic purposes and worse comes to worse might have to use some good silicone on top of the gasket to achieve a leak free seal.
Pound your pan mating surface straight
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I originally thought those holes were drill holes where someone put screws in there to pull out a dent but theres no evidence that any dent was ever there. The holes are too small for a 22 but there are several more random small holes inside the fender well the same size ...I think she got hit with a small shotgun round...I'm guessing 4-10 or 20 gauge bird shot by the spread and size...Ginger ran with a rough crowd in her youth >:D
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Pic or it didn't happen
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Heres a close up pic...what do you guys think...I like the shot-gun story myself.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2039.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2040.jpg)
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I just sent that out to the "ESI" lab here , and the reply is dent puller.I think they looked closely at the cracking paint pattern around the permiation of the forementioned alledged bullet holes and nodded a not quite, but nice story closure. :rotfl:
look at the far right one, it even has a round perfect circle mark around the edge of the hole,along with outward stress cracks in the paint....................sorry :-\
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Dent puller was my first thought as well.
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Aaawww, that's not nearly as good a story.
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I kinda figured thats what it probably was...The couple of holes in the fender well upon inspection really look like they were drilled...for what I have no Idea....Its kinda too bad though...I really liked the whole bank robbery get away car Idea more than the shotty body work one....Oh well I still love her just the same.
Anyway, i got paid today so if I got enough left after the payments come out ill be sending the motor off to get hot tanked. I was gonna buy the cam but Im not gonna stick it in a dirty block...I just like the warm fuzzy feeling of having a new part in my hand....I also need to start looking for a good donor jeep.
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I got the engine down to the machine shop today with two things in mind getting the block retapped from 7/16 to 1/2 inch and getting it hot tanked...about 100 dollars worth of work.....by the time I left there the guy had talked me into machining the crank shaft replacing all the bearings and honing the cylinders. Im up to about 400 now....Unfortunatly it wont be done for about two to three weeks though...which is fine...gives me time to scrape up some cash!! I spent the rest of the day cleaning all the brackets timing chain cover and misc. parts off the engine. I then sanded and repainted them with high temp engine paint. Im getting pretty excited to get this thing back together!!(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2173.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2174.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2175.jpg)
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I got the engine down to the machine shop today with two things in mind getting the block retapped from 7/16 to 1/2 inch and getting it hot tanked...about 100 dollars worth of work.....by the time I left there the guy had talked me into machining the crank shaft replacing all the bearings and honing the cylinders. Im up to about 400 now....Unfortunatly it wont be done for about two to three weeks though...which is fine...gives me time to scrape up some cash!! I spent the rest of the day cleaning all the brackets timing chain cover and misc. parts off the engine. I then sanded and repainted them with high temp engine paint. Im getting pretty excited to get this thing back together!!
I'm jealous, I wish I had another car and enough money to put a brand new cam and lifters in, and get my engine balanced... I can't wait to see her run again :) Also, you'll save 50 bucks by having gone to 1/2" thread... Those bolts MAY have the studs on top for the belt tensioner...
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I would pop a new seal in that front timeing cover while it's off , just my thought.Looks great man !!
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HI Shane Quadratc.com you can ask for a cadloge they will send you one later .......Don
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It was 50 dollars to get it retapped or 50 dollars more for the 7/16 bolts. either way Im out 50 dollars but atleast now if I bust a bolt in the future I can rest assure one will be available.
All this machine work on the motor has set me back alot. I am using the money I had set aside for the tranny. I hope im not going overboard getting all this machine work done. Its a peace of mind thing for me I guess....Im sure the engine would have been ok but im totally OCD with with stuff like this :)
By the way, is that timing cover seal still available at part stores? It is a bit dry rotted!!
Oh yeah, by the way...I broke my lower timing gear dropping it on the floor today :banghead: When I go to buy a new one do i get the 4.0 or 4.2 gear...or are they the same.
Thanks
shane
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Thank you Don...I wrote it down this time ;D
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HI Shane I left out some of it here it is Quadratec.com This is right I checked it 3 times to make sure.
On the seal yes ....... On the gear I have never compared the 2 side by side.toug would
know that......later Don
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Timing gears on the 4.0 and 4.2 are identical. Do not get a stock/OEM set, get a triple roller steel set if you can, they can be found on summitracing.com or similar places.... If that gear hitting the floor was enough for it to break, it's a good thing you dropped it, lol. Also, those seals are very common.... Just be very careful in removal and installation, if you scratch the surface the seal sits on, it will always leak unless you use sillycone.
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HI Shane there is something I forgot is the ridge at the top of the cylinder ...I do that here at home
glaze breaker and ridge reamer . you know how Priya did there motor in blue .I think Ginger would
looked good with a Ginger motor . The bolts is the way to go ..and the crank is good to see what you
have to work with. and are you going with braes frieze plugs or steel ....how is your oil pan coming
a long .I hope all right.we had one with a hole in it .we keened it up and wire wilded it grind it
down and paint it .It looked good .later...Don
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I havent really thought about the plugs...what would you guys suggest? As for the oil pan i cleaned it up good with gasoline and then used some good degreaser to get that last bit of oily film off. Ive gotta pop the dents out as best I can. I have some bricks of lead I can use to fill in the rest to get a nice flush surface. I think Im gonna do the oil pan, intake manifold, and valve cover in that metallic ginger color and kep the block and everything else black. That Bronz engine paint I found is really close to the color of gingers trim.
I guess it was lucky I dropped that gear...I was going to reuse it....Apon further inspection I noticed that its full of hairline cracks!! that could have gotten ugly down the road!!
Thanks for all the help fellas!!!
shane
Oh! I got one more question? Whats the best way to get that seal out??
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I havent really thought about the plugs...what would you guys suggest? As for the oil pan i cleaned it up good with gasoline and then used some good degreaser to get that last bit of oily film off. Ive gotta pop the dents out as best I can. I have some bricks of lead I can use to fill in the rest to get a nice flush surface. I think Im gonna do the oil pan, intake manifold, and valve cover in that metallic ginger color and kep the block and everything else black. That Bronz engine paint I found is really close to the color of gingers trim.
I guess it was lucky I dropped that gear...I was going to reuse it....Apon further inspection I noticed that its full of hairline cracks!! that could have gotten ugly down the road!!
Thanks for all the help fellas!!!
shane
Oh! I got one more question? Whats the best way to get that seal out??
At least these engines aren't interference motors, so if you had grenaded a timing gear, it definitely would not have been the end of the world ;)
Use a pick or a screwdriver to very gently pry it out, being careful not to gouge the aluminum. Or, you could grab a seal puller from a parts store, I don't think they're that much. They look similar to a mini battle axe, a double point head and thin handle.
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Oh! I got one more question? Whats the best way to get that seal out??
[/quote]
At least these engines aren't interference motors, so if you had grenaded a timing gear, it definitely would not have been the end of the world ;)
Use a pick or a screwdriver to very gently pry it out, being careful not to gouge the aluminum. Or, you could grab a seal puller from a parts store, I don't think they're that much. They look similar to a mini battle axe, a double point head and thin handle.
[/quote]
HI Toug you did not leave me any thing to say .O I use the seal puller it works great ;D ;D....Don
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I haven't really thought about the plugs...what would you guys suggest? As for the oil pan i cleaned it up good with gasoline and then used some good degreaser to get that last bit of oily film off. Ive gotta pop the dents out as best I can. I have some bricks of lead I can use to fill in the rest to get a nice flush surface. I think Im gonna do the oil pan, intake manifold, and valve cover in that metallic ginger color and kep the block and everything else black. That Bronz engine paint I found is really close to the color of gingers trim.
I guess it was lucky I dropped that gear...I was going to reuse it....Apon further inspection I noticed that its full of hairline cracks!! that could have gotten ugly down the road!!
Thanks for all the help fellas!!!
shane
Oh! I got one more question? Whats the best way to get that seal out??
HI I found some thing to say ha ha I use the brass plugs .sounds good on pan .and the color combo sounds great .I can see it now that looks great .. I put the brass plugs in after the block is painted it looks real nice with the brass and black and then Ginger ..that is going to look good Shane......later........Don
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Don't go with cheap plugs or you'll end up with leaks. Stay away from parts store chinese crap. You could probably get some good 4.0 plugs from a jeep dealership, I'm sure they're the same size.
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I hadent really put any thought into the freeze plugs before but now that you mention it the brass would look sharp....real sharp....Thanks for the suggestion!!
I better be real carefull getting that seal out...I am going to be seriously :censored: off if I get this thing done and it leaks oil out everywhere!!
Thanks fellas
shane
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Hey Toug, just out of curiosity, Ive never actually removed a freeze plug. Is there some kind of sealant you put on them or are they self sealing?
Ill call around to the dealerships tomorrow and see what they got.
Thanks
shane
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Self sealing they get pounded in. Don't get them cocked sideways. Use a socket to fit the outer inside edge to get them even
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Hey Toug, just out of curiosity, Ive never actually removed a freeze plug. Is there some kind of sealant you put on them or are they self sealing?
Ill call around to the dealerships tomorrow and see what they got.
Thanks
shane
HI Well what did you find out about the plugs ......later Don
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Ive been looking around but have yet to find them in brass...I have my heart set on them though so im gonna keep looking....You know where a guy might find a set Don? :help:
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HI did you check with the shop that has your motor that's were I get mine .....here they had 3 kinds
good, beater and best ..it mite be a little more but not much hope that works for you Shane later
Don
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HI If you cant get them there let me know I will get them here and send them to you....ok........Don
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Thank you Don ;D Ill certainly let you know...Ill call the machine shop tomorrow and see what they got. I didnt even think about that!!
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You will need a gasket for the timing cover anyway, and the gasket sets usually come with a new seal.
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Sweet!! I was actually wondering about that...One more piece of the puzzle ;)
Now I all I need is my engine!!...I keep staring at that empty engine stand in my garage....Hopefully in a week or so it should be done and project ginger will be back on track.
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Sweet!! I was actually wondering about that...One more piece of the puzzle ;)
Now I all I need is my engine!!...I keep staring at that empty engine stand in my garage....Hopefully in a week or so it should be done and project ginger will be back on track.
YOu should see if you can have them balance the engine (though they're naturally balanced), generally involves taking or adding material to the counterweights...
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Im having them balance it too...It was'nt all that much more cost wise so I told em to go for it
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Got me really jealous now ya know :P I'm pretty sure whoever rebuilt my engine never balanced it... All the vibration is pretty much gone, she drives like a dream (almost) but still feels like it could be quite a bit more refined at the mechanical level. I guess I'll just wait for shavings :P
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Im sure Its probably balanced just fine....I figure im in this thing about a grand so far, Including the purchace cost. a few dollars more wont hurt me. . I just like to know im starting with a near perfect engine.
I figure Ill be in this thing about 5-6 thousand dollars once all is said and done.
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Im sure Its probably balanced just fine....I figure im in this thing about a grand so far, Including the purchace cost. a few dollars more wont hurt me. . I just like to know im starting with a near perfect engine.
I figure Ill be in this thing about 5-6 thousand dollars once all is said and done.
And if you had to sell it for some reason you could easily get that amount back
NADA on a good limited is somewhere in the 8k range if I remember right and I think prices are going up.
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i'm kind of embarrassed to say this but i have never read this before so i had no idea how much time and effort (not to mention the money) you have put in to it. i wish you luck with what all you have left to do oh and that is definitely a very nice eagle.
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Thank you Maddog....This whole thing started when I had to give up my 86 sedan do to rust issues. Tougeagle found Ginger for me. I originally was just going to slap a new tranny in her and use her as a daily driver...Long story short, when me and my boss went up to get her in his 01 dodge cummins we followed Toug to go get the car...He was pulling away from that dodge with no sweat.....It was at that point I decided I had to have EFI. I then went from having to have EFI to needing to redo everything from the tires up...Im officially obsessed and way over my head!!
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Thank you Maddog....This whole thing started when I had to give up my 86 sedan do to rust issues. Tougeagle found Ginger for me. I originally was just going to slap a new tranny in her and use her as a daily driver...Long story short, when me and my boss went up to get her in his 01 dodge cummins we followed Toug to go get the car...He was pulling away from that dodge with now sweat.....It was at that point I decided I had to have EFI. I then went from having to have EFI to needing to redo everything from the tires up...Im officially obsessed and way over my head!!
I daydreamed, from the first day I realized I wanted to remove the 2100 and do something very radical, until the first time I was able to drive it, what it would be like to get in it, drive it calmly out to the interstate, and :censored: wrap it out first through fourth gear, bringing me to triple digit speeds.. Over a year and a half later, I finally got to experience it and I wouldn't give that up for the world. You'll be very proud of yourself when you have Ginger built the way you want, even if it's not perfect. You'll be able to stand back, take a look at her and tell yourself she's driving because of you. I lived for that moment and it was my motivation every day and every minute I worked on my car. And it continues to be, because I'm a perfectionist, and my car isn't perfect. Over the past few months, I've started going through the whole experience again dreaming of the day Caroline has a snail hiding under the intake manifold :D
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that sounds like me in some aspects. and yes your obsessed but as for being over your head i think i've got you beat because instead of trying to work on one car at a time i'm trying to work on three at the same time.
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Im totally OCD with my cars. I usually end up turning a 2 hour project into a 2 week project. I dont know how your keeping your sanity Maddog....I cant sleep half the time cuz I lay there all night thinking about the stuff I need to do to my ONE Eagle....If I had three to obsess over Id be in a padded room somewhere.
Ive resently had some rust issues pop up on my 2000 chevy truck from where else...Michigan. Im going nuts on that right now :eyepopping:. I was out in the garage till 3 in the morning the other night grinding, sanding and Bondoing :cofee:. Its a good :censored: thing that Gingers engine is tied up at the machine shop right now and theres not much I can do with her....other wise Id really be blowing a gasket right now!!!!
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sanity what's that i think that left a long time ago. and only two off them are eagles the other is my car i'm building for i25speedway.
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Im totally OCD with my cars. I usually end up turning a 2 hour project into a 2 week project. I don't know how your keeping your sanity Maddog....I cant sleep half the time cuz I lay there all night thinking about the stuff I need to do to my ONE Eagle....If I had three to obsess over Id be in a padded room somewhere.
Ive recently had some rust issues pop up on my 2000 Chevy truck from where else...Michigan. I'm going nuts on that right now :eyepopping:. I was out in the garage till 3 in the morning the other night grinding, sanding and Bondoing :cofee:. Its a good :censored: thing that Gingers engine is tied up at the machine shop right now and theres not much I can do with her....other wise Id really be blowing a gasket right now!!!!
HI I heard that. Michigan Is a good place to be from fare from ....sanity what is that I don't know what
that is ....I :censored: up wile I was waiting for parts for one I would start on another one then Waite for money to get parts for that one ..It Is a endless string...I sold 4 cars this week to get one more eagle ...I hope I can get it this week end ..I have 6 projects started and having to sell some of my cars to get them done ......
It would be grate to have ONE TO work on ..some time its work and some time its fun ..have fun ........Don
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Im totally OCD with my cars. I usually end up turning a 2 hour project into a 2 week project. I dont know how your keeping your sanity Maddog....I cant sleep half the time cuz I lay there all night thinking about the stuff I need to do to my ONE Eagle....If I had three to obsess over Id be in a padded room somewhere.
I know that feeling. And it's added pressure on a weekend project or evening project when you need your car. Two cars is the "Just Right" number. One's apart and the other you're driving. You can just swap cars until you get everything fixed.
On the other hand, it's amazing how quickly you can get something to be road-worthy when you don't care so much. I just used some scrap, roofing tin, and rivets to put a Cherokee on the road with rotten floorboards and rotten rockers. Everything's covered, so it passes PA inspection. (I had to do the brakes right, though. Never cut corners on stopping!) I never would have been so brash with a car I expected to keep.
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HI Shane It looks like I got a 83 eagle wagon it looks real good in the pictures .you can see it in cars for
sale ....hows ginger and your truck coming ...Later...........Don
THE SILVER BLUIT OR SILVER
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HI I would like for you to go to altered eagles and to diesel / gas and electric and read my writings and let me know what you think ....I think it will work .i would like to know what you think ....later ...Don
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Michigan is a great place to be from if your a person, but my poor truck didnt fare too well from the winter road salt.
By the way, thats My favorite year of Eagle Don!!! ;) what color is it? Its always exciting when someone on here rescues another Eagle!....Congrats
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HI Shane It looks like I got a 83 eagle wagon it looks real good in the pictures .you can see it in cars for
sale ....hows ginger and your truck coming ...Later...........Don
THE SILVER BLUIT OR SILVER
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Well guys here I am twiddling my thumbs...no engine yet...theres not a whole lot I can do at this point and im going nuts!...I need to pull out the front axle and clean it up and inspect the diff....Its gonna be very messy.. Its got a good inch of oily grime built up on it...Im kinda dreading that job to be quite honest.
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You will thank yourself for doing it , trust me.
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Well guys here I am twiddling my thumbs...no engine yet...theres not a whole lot I can do at this point and im going nuts!...I need to pull out the front axle and clean it up and inspect the diff....Its gonna be very messy.. Its got a good inch of oily grime built up on it...Im kinda dreading that job to be quite honest.
I'll reiterate: purple power, some brake cleaner, a few bucks and an hour at the car wash.
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hey don't forget a little paint after it's all nice and clean so it looks even nicer. ;D ;D
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Speaking of paint i gotta get some more. A gal I knows husband is getting a sand blasting outfit going. Hes buying a huge compressor for it and he said if I go get it and haul it up to his house and help set it up he'll hook me up with free sand blasting.....Very handy with som many cruddy parts!!
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Make sure you get all the grease and crud off before blasting if you are reuseing the blast media.If you sre it pays to rescreen it too when going back in the cylinder.I know, I spent probably a month straight over time blasting every single piece of that 52 Molines I did last year.I had made a big booth though for it, and I know some people just blast outside in open air and don't worry about media recovery. Good Luck !!!
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Im gonna use degreaser, a scraper and a preassure washer before I get it blasted...I dont know how much that media costs but proably not the cheapest stuff...I cant wait till hes up and running so I can get my parts all nice and clean.
Oh yeah...I got those seats from Patton today...Super nice guy by the way!!...he even threw in some extra parts!! Like I always say...the nicest people drive Eagles!!! The seats are real good condition...just real dry, especially the fronts...I installed the back seats already...I got the fronts in the spare bedroom/Eagle parts day spa getting a serious leather conditioner treatment. Im gonna do this repeatedly and hopefull moisten that leather up a bit.(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2260.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2259.jpg)(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2258.jpg)
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Ya know looking closer at these seats the cover itself looks pretty simple to remove...I would make it easy to get a new piece of vinyl or leather sewn on...if I can get a close color that is....hopefully these babies soften up...they are already starting to feel alot more stretchy and soft. ive been rubbing leather cream on them all night
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Those leather seats look in great shape. Very nice.
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You will enjoy those seats, they're extremely comfortable. Even though my driver seat is kinda falling apart I don't get stony butt after an hour and a half on the highway.
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HI Hay those seats look grate and you said you have ben rubbing on them all night they do look good
I bet I know what your wife said .......................later .....Don
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Wow, what a beauty ! Exactly like mine (well, maybe not ;) ) http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=34825.0
This makes me think about a couple questions (don't want to hijack the thread, though): what can I use to clean them ? I mean *clean*, bring them back to the original color without risking to dry them or ruining them ?
And this other one: the driver's seat is somehow sitting lower than the pass. one. I bet it's because I'm in the 220 pounds range and the PO was even heavier... ;) What could I do to "lift" it to a normal height ? I thought about stuffing it with something, but I can't figure out where to start...
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I bought Blue Magic leather creme conditioner and sprayed the :censored: out of them and let it sit and soak in...I wiped them up then sprayed them again...Ive use up like 2 bottles so far just on the front seats...they were like a rawhide dog chew when i got them...now they are beginning to get much softer and shinyer...its soaking up that leather conditioner like a sponge!!!
As for the saggy seat..My 82 limited had these same seats an it sagged...over time the foam breaks down and loses its pillowy properties. The leather cover on these seats are attached with plastic clips on the underside that hook on to the wire seat frame..you could probably pull the seat covering off and cut a piece of memory foam place it on the seat and then pull the cover back over it.
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One of the few negatives of a Colorado car: faded paint, brittle plastic and stiff leather :( Being a mile closer to the sun has its downfall.
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Yup, leather lasts forever if its frequently treated...but 99% of them were never treated ...and they sit in sunlight for years then...use lots of leather cream. and it does begin to soften up...alot
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If it were legal you could drive naked on hot summer days and soften them up that way too :P
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Ewwwwwwwwwwww ,lol. that's just not right !!
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Its only illeagal if ya get caught
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If it were legal you could drive naked on hot summer days and soften them up that way too :P
that is so very wrong on so many levels.
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lol! It seriously would! Though, you could drive shirtless if the backs are stiff. I'd imagine though, at least from what i've seen with leather seats around, that just the bottoms are all stiff.
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I think Ill just get a swedish bikini team to cruise around with me....I heard bikini models love eagles!
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hey just remember to keep them hidden from your wife. ;D ;D ;D
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Ill put em up in my old Motorhome....I dont think she'll look there LOL...she thinks its creepy.
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well that might work unless of coarse they think it's creepy too. ;D ;D
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What is it about vans and old RV's that women find so creepy? I was looking at a sweet 4X4 econoline van a few years ago...My wife told me its a pervert mobile and WOULD NOT let me get it.she said she would divorce me if I did....She hated that thing more than my eagle!
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HI I wonder if the Eagle is to masculine for some women....I covered my but there ....because some women
like Eagles OK ...........Don
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What is it about vans and old RV's that women find so creepy? I was looking at a sweet 4X4 econoline van a few years ago...My wife told me its a pervert mobile and WOULD NOT let me get it.she said she would divorce me if I did....She hated that thing more than my eagle!
Dude.... never let a woman make you choose between her and a car. That's violating a major man's rule :P
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who knows dude most people refer to my eagle as a serial killer car but that's because of the paint job and my mom likes old vans and RV's, go figure. maybe they need to be redneck women to appreciate them.
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Im pretty sure they do have to be atleast 50% redneck.....And Guess what guys I just got another Eagle today!!!Gingers got a friend to keep her company....Its a blue 86 wagon....100 bucks...runs good, new tires, no rust, 200,000 miles but hey for a hundred bucks who's complaining.....Im on the fence weather to use it for a parts car. All the stuff Ginger needs now is jeep related so being as it runs good I may use it as a semi-daily driver until Gingers done than redo that one. Picking it up this weekend.!!!
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Im pretty sure they do have to be atleast 50% redneck.....And Guess what guys I just got another Eagle today!!!Gingers got a friend to keep her company....Its a blue 86 wagon....100 bucks...runs good, new tires, no rust, 200,000 miles but hey for a hundred bucks who's complaining.....Im on the fence weather to use it for a parts car. All the stuff Ginger needs now is jeep related so being as it runs good I may use it as a semi-daily driver until Gingers done than redo that one. Picking it up this weekend.!!!
100 bucks... good grief. If I hadn't lost my job last week I'd offer you 200 for it...
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HI I am glad to hear that you got that car ...that's great..........Don
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I just hope hes got a title :-\ I was so excited I didnt ask...If he doesnt I can always apply for one I guess.
Im sorry to hear that Toug!! Hey, down the road would ya maybe consider a possible trade for some help installing gingers EFI? ;).
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Bummer on the job loss Touge.I thought you had a good gig going there......
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I just hope hes got a title :-\ I was so excited I didnt ask...If he doesnt I can always apply for one I guess.
Im sorry to hear that Toug!! Hey, down the road would ya maybe consider a possible trade for some help installing gingers EFI? ;).
I absolutely would. That wagon you just acquired would become my daily if it gets better mileage, until I could put an SAS under it, given I get a decent job sometime soon.
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Bummer on the job loss Touge.I thought you had a good gig going there......
Not to hijack the thread, but yeah, I did... more stability then than I'd had in five years. Couple people there didn't like me because I knew more than them, and were waiting for me to screw up.
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That really sucks dude!! I hate people that intentionaly destroy someones career out of jealousy.
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I'm gonna call the machine shop tomorrow and see where the :censored: my engines at!! I'm getting antsy waiting around. I want to have Ginger done by Fall.
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Did you pay them in advance to do the work, or no?
If you did, their number isn't the only one you need to call....
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I didnt pay them in advance...but I think where I screwed up is when I told them no hurry....cuz they were pretty backed up and Im sure they put it on the back burner. I forgot to call them today with everything going on...tomorrow im gonna call and light a fire under their :censored:.
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HI there is one more Ginger look a like in hatchlings whitewagon .......Don
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I havent had time....or money....to do a thing with Ginger for weeks now. The engine should be done by the end of the month...supposedly :-\. Its been very dry here so Ginger has not seen any moisture to speak of since I got her. While I was in california last week we got a foot of snow here in Divide...and then a warm spell, so it melted very rapidly. I had a buddy house sitting for the week and something told me to call him and ask him to look inside Ginger and see if there were wet spots.....And sure enough the rear mat was soaked. I looked tonight to see where the heck the water is getting in at. I covered the cargo area end to end with a layer of toilet paper so in theory I should be able to see where even the tinyest drip has dropped...Its snowing tonight and should be warm tomorrow so maybe tomorrow I can pinpoint this darn leak.
My guess is the hatch seal...thank god I caught this early...could have been a real nightmare down the road.
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Check roof trim strips, where they go into the sheetmetal. I couldn't figure out for the longest time where my leak was coming from.
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I was kinda wondering about those too. The hatch gasket isnt great but its not bad either..its still rubbery and plyable not dry rotted or nothin. Ive gotta pull out the head liner at some point any way as its sagging pretty bad that will make finding any leaks alot easier. If it is those trim strips ill just pull em off bondo the holes and reattach the things with 3M double side tape. If its coming from the luggage rack it may find itself getting deleted. The guy I got the seats from gave me a darn near new luggage rack assembally with good gaskets. I could always use that one too.
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I was kinda wondering about those too. The hatch gasket isnt great but its not bad either..its still rubbery and plyable not dry rotted or nothin. Ive gotta pull out the head liner at some point any way as its sagging pretty bad that will make finding any leaks alot easier. If it is those trim strips ill just pull em off bondo the holes and reattach the things with 3M double side tape. If its coming from the luggage rack it may find itself getting deleted. The guy I got the seats from gave me a darn near new luggage rack assembally with good gaskets. I could always use that one too.
I'd definitely check into it, I was amazed to find there were no seals in anything
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Its just that cheesy little clip that plugs the hole isn't it? One on the front is busted that I plugged with some silicone...Its quite likely one in the back has snapped off as well..... I love little plastic parts!!!! ;D
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it is either those or the well nuts that the rack itself screws into. as for the strips that where on eagle eyes well they are long gone and i plan on mig welding the holes closed and then grinding them smooth but that won't be till i'm just about to paint.
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Id like to either mig weld like you said or lead them in....I dont trust bondo too much for sealing holes. ive gotten pretty good with lead filling so Ill try that first....All I have is an arch welder and I guarentee id endup making a huge mess with it. I can weld stuff on my tractor or boat trailer ok, but thin sheet metal is a whole different game....By the way man I got an entire roof rack assembaly with good gaskets if you need one let me know. its off an 83 or 84 i believe.
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yeah all i've got right now is arc welder as well but i'm supposed to be getting a mig soon (now all i need to do is learn how to weld) :-\ :banghead:. as for the gaskets they won't work on eagle eyes as it is an 80 and has a differant roof rack.
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If Survivor ever needs one let me know
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will do shanebo.
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Well I got my motor back today. It does look really good. I was very pleased it. There was really nothing I could do to it today. I need get a cam, rod and crank bearings gaskets, timing gears and chain...and the list goes on. The stock pistons look in good shape and the wrist pins are snug but I cant help but want a brand new shiny set of pistons...We'll see on that one. It seems like with every step foward I make the light at the end of the tunnel keeps looking further ad further away. (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2433.jpg) (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2434.jpg)
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Ok so after getting my ya ya's out over getting my block back I got a sudden burst of motivation. I went outside and pulled gingers bum fender and got the fender flares and trim off....those rear bumper caps are a pain in the :censored: to get off!!
My parade was short lived however. When I was pulling the chrome hood strip I took a long hard look at the engine bay....I started staring at that rats nest of wires and hose and quite honestly got myself pretty psyched out. Its going to be a nightmare sorting out what goes and what stays when I install the 4.0 ECM.
(http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2435.jpg) (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2436.jpg) My god!! what a mess!! I wish I could just rip it all out and start fresh....I did that once on another eagle...Needless to say it never saw the road again. I was young and stupid and ripped out every hose and cut every harness to "start from scratch"....That one is a topic in the Dont do this section.
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The task does look daunting but with my help and my car as an example, it should be pretty easy to do. The only thing to worry about is the exhaust, something i'm still sorting otu, since my front driveshaft rubs again...
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looks great Shanebo !! I know, I was just thinking this morning , why can't I just rip it all out , go old old school,distributor vaccumm advance and vaccumm for the brake booster.12V to the coil , presto. I had an old 68 Firebird that had wireing issues, I just put in 3 toggle switches. One for the starter, one for the distributor power,and one big one for power to the headlights.lol. hey it worked : )
Oil those cylinders up while it sets , and the journals and crank surfaces, they rust up quick.
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I sure appreciate all your help and know how Toug!! Thanks again!!
Should I use that Marvel oil or just plain old motor oil? Hopefully it wont be apart for long but Id beter get out there and do that before it does rust.
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Just coat it all with motor oil.But when you assemble it , wipe it off and use assmbly lube on all your bearings etc , cam lobes, lifter contact points, pushrod tips etc etc etc.......
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In the 82 parts car, and I think in my 87 as much as I looked at it, there are two almost separate harnesses. The old ECU comes out of the passenger side, and the main power harness comes out of the driver's side.
You should be able to separate the ECU harness and get everything out of the way pretty easily. Just mark any connectors that join the two, and try to see what sensor they handled.
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Alot of it is emmission related by the looks of it. Im gonna tackle it soon cuz Im stewing big time....I just need to get in there and do this thing..it will probably be ok....and hey....If I do screw it up Im sure someone here will know how to fix it ;D LOL
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There are going to be a few leftover connectors including your two wire temp, your single wire coolant temp for gauge, your manifold heater, electric choke, Alternator and starting system, firewall plug and a few other odds and ends. While your motor is out you can wipe
Down your engine bay too... I wish ihad done that when i had everything apart.
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Shes gonna need alot of elbow grease!! that engine bay is pretty rough!! probably end up using a brillo pad to get it paintable.
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Purple Power and a pressure washer works wonders ;D It will also remove scale and loose paint ;).
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The paint on that car is in excellent condition, it's easily a bit better than mine is, just, as shaggimo said, use purple power and a pressure washer or car wash and clean it out, then wax it up with macguire's showroom shine wax, that stuff is amazing. Save yourself some cash and focus on getting her running first ;)
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Should I use that Marvel oil or just plain old motor oil? Hopefully it wont be apart for long but Id beter get out there and do that before it does rust.
I was just checking out your thread shanebo. Looks like you have got a lot going on with your Eagle. I did notice this though and thought I'd reply about it. When you're oiling bare steel to keep it from rusting you should not use motor oil. Motor oil will trap moisture under itself and you will still have rust. You need to use a moisture displacing oil like WD40. Another thing or product that works really well and especially for long term storage is battery terminal protectant. This comes in a spray can and is red or purple usually. It works very well on bare heads, cranks etc. but takes a bit to wash off after. Brake clean works well to remove it though.
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Wd-40 is alot easier to apply too ;D....thats tomorrows project after work.
Pay day this week.....that means new 4.0 cam!! and probably the rods and lifters. If funds allow.....now all I need is a 4.0 cylinder head and Ill have the ball rollin again! I just acqired that other 86 thats is an alternator short of being a daily driver...I hope....Ill probably hook the one up from Ginger temporarily to see if it is in fact a driveable car
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Wd-40 is alot easier to apply too ;D....thats tomorrows project after work.
Pay day this week.....that means new 4.0 cam!! and probably the rods and lifters. If funds allow.....now all I need is a 4.0 cylinder head and Ill have the ball rollin again! I just acqired that other 86 thats is an alternator short of being a daily driver...I hope....Ill probably hook the one up from Ginger temporarily to see if it is in fact a driveable car
There is a machine shop in Denver that will machine your cyl head from start to finish: magnafluxing, dipping, milling, glass beading, 3 angle valve grind, new stem seals and fully reassembled for 200 bux..... in case you're ever passing through ;) Definitely look forward to updates on your 86 as well... Make sure when you get the cam that the pushrods and lifters are for that year as well, jeep changed pushrod height ever 2 or three years...
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It looks like...atleast at Auto Zone, there is only one set of lifters, pushrods and cam available. I put in different years in the parts finder thing on their website (91-95) and the same Melling part #'s came up on all years. I called them to ask if they had different sizes and they told me there is only one standard aftermarket size that they carry. Im wondering If I go through Jeep If I would find year specific cam, lifters ect...If so what year would you suggest?
You got the name of that machine shop Toug? I might have a lead on a cylinder head...keepin my fingers crossed....I still have had no luck with a good ECM.
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It looks like...atleast at Auto Zone, there is only one set of lifters, pushrods and cam available. I put in different years in the parts finder thing on their website (91-95) and the same Melling part #'s came up on all years. I called them to ask if they had different sizes and they told me there is only one standard aftermarket size that they carry. Im wondering If I go through Jeep If I would find year specific cam, lifters ect...If so what year would you suggest?
You got the name of that machine shop Toug? I might have a lead on a cylinder head...keepin my fingers crossed....I still have had no luck with a good ECM.
It's called Area Auto and machine, though I think they may also go by area auto parts. They're literally catty corner to Rocky's on 61st and Federal.
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Cool, Thanx Toug!!...do ya think the melling cam ,lifters, and pushrods from Auto Zone would be ok to use?
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Shane,
It looks like Jeep places like 4WD.com have other options. You might want to check them out.
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=389&plID=637&partID=57625
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Just make sure it ISN'T made in China...talk about WEAR!!
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If you go with any cam other than a 4.0 cam, you will have plenty of low end torque but no top end power. Almost every cam ground for the 4.0/258 is ground for offroading and low end torque. The 4.0 cam is ground for a combination of city/highway and offroad use, and is the best balance of the three.
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Is Melling a good brand...Ive done some research and I really have not been able to much about them...Ive found no negative feed back but then again I found no real positive feedback either...I was also looking at comp-cams too....they are a bit more but they seem to be a bit more performance oriented
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Is Melling a good brand...Ive done some research and I really have not been able to much about them...Ive found no negative feed back but then again I found no real positive feedback either...I was also looking at comp-cams too....they are a bit more but they seem to be a bit more performance oriented
Melling makes replacement oil pumps and other stuff for our cars as well, and they seem to be a good brand. There is one cam that Comp cams offers that has greater lift and duration than the 4.0 cam, if I recall correctly. They're supposed to be really good cams because of how they're ground...
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If you go radical and want to regain some low-end, there's always Rhodes lifters, but I've never heard tale of anyone installing them. Someone must have.
The Hesco RVOB cam is generally considered excellent. The 4.0 cam will feel ever so slightly "smaller" in the 258 then it does in the 4.0.
As a rule, the same cam in the same engine will get less radical as displacement increases, which can be good. The 4.0 (~242) and the 258 aren't too far apart, but some of the bigger strokers or the guys running 199s could find the "recommended" cam acting differently then they expect.
The Comp xTreme (sp?) cams are supposed to be good too, but require you to pick up the Mopar Performance springs to accommodate the increased lift.. The Comp and Crane springs also work, but are heavier rates, and harder on your camshaft.
It would be hard to find an aftermarket cam that wouldn't improve on the stock unit, though.
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Some of the aftermarket cams sold for 4.0s are ground on 258 cam specs, which are far different from the 4.0 specs, so make sure you talk to them about their grinds..
there are a few I've been curious to try out... I should have reedited my previous statement XD I know there are a few ground more aggressively all around than a 4.0 cam, more than one for sure. JUst make sure the company selling them has a good reputation.
If you have spare cash to do a little upgrading on the head before machining, you can pick up the springs, lifters and pushrods in one deal. Then add 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust LS1 valves :D
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Drove up to Denver today and met Vangremlin to buy a console from him. I got to see his Kamback too...Awesome is an understatement! He tipped me off to an Eagle in the u-pull and-pay in Colorado Springs. I had ridden my motorcycle up to meet him so seeing as how it was warm out I rode over to the pull-n-pay to check it out.....A cherry 85' Limited...the body in perfect..and I mean perfect shape top to bottom...trim everything. Interior was rough but it has power seats/window etc. door panels are in excellent shape ad all the switches seem to work good. It also has the electric power mirrors which I may grab the whole set up....I hauled :censored: home to get my truck so I could get all the parts I could since I wouldn't be off again till god know when. I managed to grab a headlight bucket, the fender I needed and the coveted "Power bulge hood" If its still there next week Those electric mirrors and the rear hatch w/ wiper are mine....I found 4 potential Jeep donors for my heads and manifolds....I'm gonna need several hours for that job though. all those wires to follow back...ugh!!
Hey Tougeagle....I think you will see the irony in this... ;D (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2453.jpg) (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2454.jpg)
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Drove up to Denver today and met Vangremlin to buy a console from him. I got to see his Kamback too...Awesome is an understatement! He tipped me off to an Eagle in the u-pull and-pay in Colorado Springs. I had ridden my motorcycle up to meet him so seeing as how it was warm out I rode over to the pull-n-pay to check it out.....A cherry 85' Limited...the body in perfect..and I mean perfect shape top to bottom...trim everything. Interior was rough but it has power seats/window etc. door panels are in excellent shape ad all the switches seem to work good. It also has the electric power mirrors which I may grab the whole set up....I hauled :censored: home to get my truck so I could get all the parts I could since I wouldn't be off again till god know when. I managed to grab a headlight bucket, the fender I needed and the coveted "Power bulge hood" If its still there next week Those electric mirrors and the rear hatch w/ wiper are mine....I found 4 potential Jeep donors for my heads and manifolds....I'm gonna need several hours for that job though. all those wires to follow back...ugh!!
Hey Tougeagle....I think you will see the irony in this... ;D (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2453.jpg) (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2454.jpg)
If you were ballin on Cherokee Country wheels, and had your front end back together, we could take a pic of them and it would literally look mirror image. yes, even down to the leather seat color XD!
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If I am able to make it to pueblo by 5 pm on MOnday, you should meet up with me and maddog, then we need to get pictures of our identawagons :D
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you guys would have to come to my house to do that since i can't drive survivor.
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I just got that center console from vangremlin and that too is the lighter honey color like yours....whats the chances!!..Ya know Tough seeing as how I plan on repainting Ginger eventually ill swap you my D/S fender so you could have a matching car...Maybe when I get all my conversion parts together and Im ready for some wiring help we could do a quick switch-a-roo....Ill even throw an 86' wagon and some ca$h in to sweeten the pot ;)...It does run threw a battery in it today....needs an alternator though.
Any of you guys need a hood? there was a 5.00 cor charge on the fender and hood...The hood is perfect thats on ginger...I just wanted a power bulge...Id rather see it go to someone who could use it rather than get thrown in the scrap pile at the pull-n-pay....for 5 bucks I think Ill hang on to it till someone wants it.
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I just got that center console from vangremlin and that too is the lighter honey color like yours....whats the chances!!..Ya know Tough seeing as how I plan on repainting Ginger eventually ill swap you my D/S fender so you could have a matching car...Maybe when I get all my conversion parts together and Im ready for some wiring help we could do a quick switch-a-roo....Ill even throw an 86' wagon and some ca$h in to sweeten the pot ;)...It does run threw a battery in it today....needs an alternator though.
Any of you guys need a hood? there was a 5.00 cor charge on the fender and hood...The hood is perfect thats on ginger...I just wanted a power bulge...Id rather see it go to someone who could use it rather than get thrown in the scrap pile at the pull-n-pay....for 5 bucks I think Ill hang on to it till someone wants it.
I'm totally down for that... with my current construction job it would be easy to take time off (not from this particular site though) and come over there and help out :) I'm really looking forward to getting yours set up, I'm going to make the wiring as neat as absolutely possible, to set an example for myself of what my car should look like under the hood :P
I have a primered pb hood sitting in my storage closet waiting for me to have enough time and money to get some rattlecanage and sandpaper.
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I got painting equipment at my place here. Seeing as how we got the same color car Ican get a can of olympic white to spray Ginger. there is always excess paint and its pretty much trash if ya dont use it all...Maybe when I get all my parts together and im all ready for assembally I could shoot that hood for ya....Ill swap ya gingers D/S fender for your brown one since Ill be painting the whole car any way....that way we can both have uniform colored cars.
Or even better yet I can sand, primer and shoot the power bulge hood I got now and when we do meet up you can bring your p/b hood down and we'll just swap hoods and fenders......thanks for all the help Tough!!
shane
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I got painting equipment at my place here. Seeing as how we got the same color car Ican get a can of olympic white to spray Ginger. there is always excess paint and its pretty much trash if ya dont use it all...Maybe when I get all my parts together and im all ready for assembally I could shoot that hood for ya....Ill swap ya gingers D/S fender for your brown one since Ill be painting the whole car any way....that way we can both have uniform colored cars.
Or even better yet I can sand, primer and shoot the power bulge hood I got now and when we do meet up you can bring your p/b hood down and we'll just swap hoods and fenders......thanks for all the help Tough!!
shane
you are very good at making sure I am not short of reasons to come over :D
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Hey, Its a couple hour drive on top of the hours it will take to hook everythin up. I want it to be well worth your while..
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that's a heck of an offer too, I do appreciate that :D I had it in the back of my mind for a long time that I need to set time aside, but I had a different job that wasn't exactly easy to work around. Now though, I may even do it after this project if I don't have any work lined up for a few days, though that will depend on how much longer I'm down here in Lamar.
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Well me and Maddog finally got to meet up at the best junk yard around. Love that place!! I finally got my mitts on the spirit grill Ive been wanting and Maddog got his sway bar....We went to another junkyard on the other end of town and I found a 94 Cherokee that I was able to rob the computer out of. I started to get the wire harness but I broke several of the tabs on the connectors to the fuel injectors and I conveniently forgot my list from Tougeagle of what I needed and what to cut. ....I chickened out about going any further with that harness as I didnt want to cause further damage to it....It was a little chewed up any way...I may just get a new wire harness from Mopar. All in all though a really cool day. (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2464.jpg) (http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc377/shanebo79/2461.jpg) Here is Maddogs rides....I had to snap a picture....It was awesome to get to see Eagle eyes...that thing runs really good!! I also got to meet Survivor. Its so cool to be able to meet up with other nest members and check out their rides.
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thanks for the compliments on my girls shanebo oh and you can now refer to me as lobster man for a few days as i got a really good sunburn today but i had a lot of fun so it was worth it.
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Im a bit red myself...Us Scottish people dont deal well with hours in the sun too well...I will be called Scales once this burn starts peeling....LOL....thanx for meeting up with me today I had a blast...have to do it again soon!
note to self:
BRING SUNSCREEN
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note to self:
BRING SUNSCREEN
:rotfl:i totally agree we should meet up again sometime soon. and though i do burn in a few days i'll go from being red to tan. sometimes it's good to be native american even if i am part irish. ::)
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At work today my manager asked me if I was drinking cuz my face was all red.....I used to drink alot back in the day and the red face was always a dead give away....My boss thought i tied one on last night...LOL...I told him I was part hunting in pueblo with no sun screen....I had the grill in the back seat of my truck to prove it too!!
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Shanebo I thought I'd post a pic of my computer for reference,seems like a match.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/th_IMG_60001.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/?action=view¤t=IMG_60001.jpg)
hope that helps.I could take more pix of the wiring if needed
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my coworkers and boss kept smacking my shoulders and back. talk about a wake up call.
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Hey Toug, there were 2 sets of wires going into the firewall...up on top toward the center of the firewall...and the lower one tht goes to the interior fuse box...can I cut both of those?
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If you're talkng about the wires going into the firewall plug, yes, you can. Any wire that leads to any sensor in the engine bay and that is attached to somethign on the engine must be left intact, save for a few things, please bear with me XD. The ABS sensors, brake system sensors (proportioning valve, etc), airbag sensor, power steering, a/c (I'm MOSTLY sure your Eagle harness will still run the A/C), alternator wiring (unless you wish to reduce the number of "swap codes" that will be present in your engine computer permanently, by using a computer controlled 4.0 alt), fan sensors/relay (another swap code). You can rewire for VSS, fuel pump etc quite easily, and those are the ones cut that lead outside of the engine bay. Make sure you don't forget the oxygen sensor connector (grab the 02 as well, in case it does actually work. Most yards will sell sensors like that for super cheap) and crank sensor/connector. That one is tricky, but best tackled from under the vehicle. Pay attention to the backup light connector as well, though that also depends on what tranny you're going to go with. If you have an intake manifold and throttlebody available, pull those too, they're surprisingly hard to find sometimes. Make sure all threaded holes in the intake manifold have a sensor or vacuum fitting inserted..
Philotomy, your eagle is EFI too? I'd love to see some pics of your setup :)
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can you delete codes in the ECM...such as the air bag sensor. so its not trippin out
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I don't about that technical stuff but I don't have a problem with trippin any codes,where would they show up?as a glowing battery/alt idiot light?I dont have any of those issues but yeah grab (if you can) the crank sensor,mine has a special lower crank pulley mounted part attached to the oil pan,I'll have to take more pics.I think it may have a special crank pulley too but pix will tell
Tougeagle ,there should be plenty of pics in the engine section and the older link Bigguy45 now Philotomys wagon in the your Eagles thread
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I dont know much at all about ECM's. As long as it doesnt effect how the car runs it can throw all the codes it wants ;D.....thanks for that link philotomy!! Im going to check it out right now.
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I'm gonna have the paperwork copied for ya today,do you have the harness connection to your comp.?see if you can grab it off the vehicle it came from ,most of my wiring is stck with just a few changes/connections and less vacuum lines too
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unfortunatly I didnt get the harness off that vehicle. half the plugs were broke and the wires didnt look so hot. I am going to try and get to the junk yard next friday...there are about 12 other jeeps there that should be able to provide a useable harness.....I sure appreciate the help philotomy!!
shane
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I hope you like eggs
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I love eggs!!!
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Hey just wondering if you have a printer,I could scan em all(the conversion instructions) at work tomorrow and email em to ya,then you could just print and have em rather than wait for snail mail,either way let me know.ps I do have areas highlighted and other notes written in there too
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There will be two "conversion codes" stored in the computer, and if you have a check engine light wired up, that light will always be on. You can reset the codes, but they'll just come back immediately. You'll have a code for alternator generator field, because the 4.0 alt is controlled by the computer, and the Eagle's obviously isn't. You'll also get a fan relay/circuit fault code, unless you convert to an electric fan and use the built in relay in the power distribution center (where your essential fuses and relays are).
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here's some pix ,hope they help
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/th_IMG_61101.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/?action=view¤t=IMG_61101.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/th_IMG_61061.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/?action=view¤t=IMG_61061.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/th_IMG_61041.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/?action=view¤t=IMG_61041.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/th_IMG_61111.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/?action=view¤t=IMG_61111.jpg)
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/th_IMG_60951.jpg) (http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/philotomy/?action=view¤t=IMG_60951.jpg)
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That bottom photo is taken looking up from the bottom of the car.
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I got to page 11 of the first 14 (7 more in a supplement/tip sheet)then i ran outta ink,going to wallyworld tomorrow and will resume copying on wed,promise
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I certainly appreciate this Philotomy!! eggs to you my friend!
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This last few weeks has really sucked for progress. Ive had bill after bill and I have not been able to get any parts I need. I was trying to get at least 1 part per paycheck but the last few checks have gone to repair bills on my bike as well as some home repairs. If I can get the cam shaft I will be a happy camper...that way I can at least start to reassemble the block...I also need to figure out a plan for my oil pump....replace or reuse?
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It looks like philotomy's conversion is mostly hesco, and if that includes the harness and ecm, chances are good the ecm has been flashed and reprogrammed to ignore the conversion codes. I myself had strongly considered buying the hesco harness when i was doing my conversion, but their price on them had skyrocketed from the last time I had looked into it a few months prior :(
I know that feeling, I just got an expensive ticket coming back from your place to c-springs, and my yard equipment was stolen last week the day I left for Lamar, so I had to buy a new trimmer and blower (my biggest customer gave me his troy bilt XP mower, so he's getting free service for the next month and a half), and in addition, I had to buy a new blade and adapter for that mower... So, all in all about 500 bucks taken out of the budget I had planned to spend on a powertrax and front end rebuild... My rear diff definitely needs a rebuild, the fluid smells burnt and it locks up bad with any turning after highway driving. Of course, my throwout bearing is starting to make noise too.. go figure.
It sounds like this week will be my last working at this site, once the demo is done they're not going to need us anymore. I may swing by your place on the way home, though there's a catch.... I can definitely get some work done on bluebird, if I might be able to crash for the night at your place. If not, that's totally cool, no worries at all. Anymore, when I work on something, especially something that I know may take more time than planned, i like to set aside a lot of time, keeps the frustration down.
As for your oil pump... if everything else is getting new, might as well get a new oil pump. That's 80,000 LESS miles that new pump will have on it ;) keep in mind too that if it did go out, and didn't cause catastrophic engine damage, it would be heck to replace....
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Yes sir I do have the Hesco set up all done by BigGuy45(previous owner) as an engineering final project -he passed his class but he said back in 2005 the whole kit inc header ran him in the ballpark of $3000 brand new.I'm sure you can locate some used parts or better yet they do have mopar part #s if there is only a part here or there needed.I also should mention I have a 4.2/258 not a 4.0 ,but whatever installation instructions or pictures I can offer can only help,
I have to admit though,it does feel like its got a LOT more guts than a couple of my old carburetor equipped cars,I suppose the header and straighter exhaust helps.
You'll get her there Shanebo,h*ll I was off here for almost 3 years but kept her and now back focused on her again ,knowing someday I will have her prowling the streets again.
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My wife got a 200+ dollar ticket driving to colo. sprigs about a month ago and a few days later I got a 190 dollar ticket coming back from longmont transporting a body for the funeral home I work at....The state patrol is on a rampage lately dude!!! But as for coming up friday and crashing here...no problem dude...always welcome. I made alot of progress on bluebird today....alternator and all that jazz is back in...ground wire is hooked back up..and its looking pretty good...I have to go down to the springs around noon for a buddys b-day thing on saturday but you can hang out as long as ya need to work on it...Im off friday at around 3:00 so we can work on her till the wee hours of the night and saturday morning too...but I really dont think its gonna need much to get it travel worthy. now that it runs we can drive it into the garage and work on it in there too that will make checking out the rear diff alot easier....look foward to seein ya this week dude!
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HI I am glad I don't live COLORADO..I would stay broke all the time.........Don
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My wife got a 200+ dollar ticket driving to colo. sprigs about a month ago and a few days later I got a 190 dollar ticket coming back from longmont transporting a body for the funeral home I work at....The state patrol is on a rampage lately dude!!! But as for coming up friday and crashing here...no problem dude...always welcome. I made alot of progress on bluebird today....alternator and all that jazz is back in...ground wire is hooked back up..and its looking pretty good...I have to go down to the springs around noon for a buddys b-day thing on saturday but you can hang out as long as ya need to work on it...Im off friday at around 3:00 so we can work on her till the wee hours of the night and saturday morning too...but I really dont think its gonna need much to get it travel worthy. now that it runs we can drive it into the garage and work on it in there too that will make checking out the rear diff alot easier....look foward to seein ya this week dude!
I honestly can't wait to finally hear bluebird run, and maybe cruise her a bit. I'm hoping hard for some decent gas mileage but we'll just have to see. Considering the news I told you about Caroline I have high hopes for bluebird to be reliable and efficient for quite some time, perfectly stock, so I can park caroline and eventually give her the attention she needs..
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Oh yeah....These policemen here live for giving tickets.
All my other stock eagles turned ok gas mileage. I think the worst I got was 15mpg...but the thing ran like crap. The other ones would get in the low to mid 20's hwy. if you were gingerly on the pedal.
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HI Shane silver is alive to see her move on her on power is grate ...you made one old man happy.. more in Silvers thread.....Don
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Im lookin at transmissions right now...Im keeping it automatic. Im debating weather to get the stock tf 998 rebuilt or I was thinking too maybe a tf 999 or tf 727...anyone have any thoughts...I know the tf 999 will take some mods but not sure how much at this point.
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the 727 will also require some mods to make it work.
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I'm planning on just rebuilding mine to 999 specs (larger pump and 1 more clutch pack) don't know what else would be involved but seems easier than customizing/modifying stuff but I'm having a professional do it ,once I save up my pennies.Once I get smaller tires on there I shouldn't have to worry about burning it out ( overheating )anymore
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I was thinking about that too...Im sure they can do stuff to these trannys to beef them up a bit...It wold be alot easier to have someone strengthen this thing on the inside rather than trying to modify it from the outside.
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Hay Shane how did that tripe to the yard turn out haven't heard from you ..lately.....Don
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Havent really had any time to do anything lately.....but the good news is I got a new job which will add up to more money and more time....Im kinda at a stand still with ginger cuz all the parts she needs now are the expensive ones. However next month funds should free up a bit and things will get rollin. the fist things I gotta get is a bearing kit a cam shaft, piston rings and an oil pump.....and all the gaskets of course. Then I can get the block all buttoned up and start working on the 4.0 head upgrade. Im am so ready to get this thing rollin again....My hopes are to have it on the road by next summer!!
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Are you staying with the port injected route or going with throttle body?I was afraid my paperwork would turn up a few expensive bits.
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Im still doing port injection 8)....The EFI will be a mixture of new injectors,wiring, and rebuilt ECM paired up with the junk yard jeep intake manifold and rebuilt cylinder head. Its not cheap by any means but still do-able. The write up you sent was based on a full aftermarket set up...mopar if I recall correctly , which is a very expensive upgrade indeed. Im just going off the write up substituting junkyard and rebuilt parts in place of the new mopar ones.....It has been incredibly useful as a reference...thanks again for that Philotomy.
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;)
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OK...first progress in a long time. Finally ordered my jeep 4.0 cam shaft. Its a small step but atleast the ball is kinda rolling. Its amazing how frustrating it is when life happens and you are not able to give an ample amount of time to your project. Its been a long time since Ive been able to do anything to Ginger and I feel like throwing up when I look at my work bench full of engine parts, the tranny and t-case on the garage floor, and poor ginger sitting next to the motor home that hasnt moved in threee years either.....sigh :(
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HI Shane I know how you fell ............Don
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Well heres the first tidbit of progress on Ginger for some time. Today I purchaced a Jeep cherokee from a fella in new Mexico. Its a 93' with just under 20,000 miles. The only down fall is it was involved in a rail road crossing incident in 95', in which the passanger died and the driver was critically injured. The guy has held on to it all these years cuz it was his last "memory" of the person who perished....I really didnt ask too many more details. Anyway the guy has finally decided its time to let it go. He texted me some pics and it is pretty smashed. It should render the cylinder head, computer, wireing harness, and EFI components I desperately need to finish my 4.0 EFI head swap.
My wife is really not too impresed with this purchace. Shes mad Im buying a wrecked car, and furious im buying one with such a tragic past, but I work part time as a mortician/funeral director at the local funeral home in our town so Im not getting my feathers ruffled about its past.
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THe jeep is a true donor for your Eagle, if you think about it.
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In every sense of the word....Now I just gotta figure out how the heck Im goning to get it back...I may end up pulling what I need there and then hauling it to a crusher in that area vs. hauling it all the way back here at 10 MPG with my truck....The guy is real cool though hes not in any rush to get it out of there....cuz with my schedule it may take months before I can get down to new mexico.
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now if only you knew somebody with a 16 foot trailer. ;D
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Ya know what Maddog you just made me think of somthing. I dont know how Id even get it on a trailer cuz the thing is in a taco shape and from what Ive been told the wheels are pretty much folded underneath it. It was brought back to his house on a flat bed wrecker and when it arrived it had to be dragged off the wrecker bed with another truck....Hmmmm ??? Chock it up to being tired and overworked but I somehow overlooked that tiny detail of how im gonna get the dumb thing loaded....Thanx Maddog....you saved me from having to add an embarassing post in the "dont do this" thread. :rotfl:
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no problem dude. the fact that it don't roll makes me wonder how bad it would tear up my trailers wooden flooring. :o
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I may just take the parts i need and contact one of the local scrap guys....let him mess with it. if a guy had alot of time on his hands and a demolition saw it could be made to fit in the back of a pick up truck
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not sure that i would want to be the guy that has to do that.