AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Project Cars => Topic started by: Whuntmore on October 18, 2010, 01:50:52 AM
-
Just a little background, I got the first eagle from Hemlokk here on the nest in mid August. He had it as a daily driver, before it got T-boned. We looked into fixing it, but there's too much damage for Pat (Mechanic) and I to take on.
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=32775.0;all
Video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0o2Izm3JVU
Now, I got the second one on Oct 1st. This one has a pretty good body, but some 'bugs and issues' with it - The biggest one is intermitted electrical problems, possibly from an old radio install, and removal. Otherwise she's in pretty good shape.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle64.jpg)
More here: http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=33207.0
So, between Pat and I, and the work ahead of us, we've decided that Hemlokk's former eagle will be taken over by Pat and turned into a bush buggy - as we don't want it to go to the crusher.
So Since there's not much I can do to Hemlokk's eagle, I've started working on my newest one. Pat's place is about 35-40 minutes drive down the highway from my place, and I can't get down there every day. (my apt complex doesn't allow this type of work being done in the parking lot). So, when I can get down there, I work on her.
First, I've taken the dash off, and found a few issues. One being an old noise eliminator that was badly spliced in. That's now in the trash, and the splice fixed. There's a few other small wiring issues and with the dash off, it gives me the chance to replace all the bulbs I can, and fix any other broken items - My rear defogger button for one.
When I took the dash apart, I mostly shot videos so I could record "What, went where." I'll get some pictures.
So far, I've fixed the hood release - I replaced the broken button with a newer cable, and it seems to be doing good so far.
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=33423.0
Once Pat (Mechanic) gets his jeep finished (we had to replace the tranny, and we got it in tonight), I can get my car into his garage, and we can get to work fixing the heavy stuff. 'Flicker' needs a better passenger half shaft, a non-feedback carb, new ball joints, some front end work, shocks, bit of body work, a new windshield, and a few other things.
I'll post them as I go.
-
I will be watching this interesting project. Thanks for starting it.
-
Since Pat lives a bit aways, and I can't be there whenever I want, I've realized I've got to plan to take some parts home that I can fix. So yesterday as I'm working on the hood latch, I figure I'll take the grill off, and fix that at home.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle24.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle26.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle27.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle28.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle31.jpg)
Now, there are a few cracks in it, but besides the tab missing, it's not too serious. So I've started sanding, and I realized I need some more sandpaper! I'll have to get more today. I got this far
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle32.jpg)
Now, I'm not totally sure what to use to fix the grill with, but if I get short hair fibreglass body fill, and if I get fiberglass mat to re-enforce the cracks, that should work pretty good. I get the feeling I could fix headlight buckets with that stuff if I was keen on sanding.
-
Hey Jared!! Flicker is such a cool name!! Can't wait to see you on the road!
-
Thanks Duane, after I came up with the name 'Flicker', for the new eagle, I then thought of 'Boner' for the T-boned one! ;D ;D ;D
-
I wonder if more cracks will develop? The grille almost appears to be disintegrating.
-
From what I understand, the grill is made from ABS plastic. I found a website that has some videos and some instructions on how to fix/repair this type of plastic. It does involve some plastic welding, and some resins for the different types of plastics on cars. Like plastic bumpers, and some grilles, fenders for ATV's, etc.
I'll have to do more research. makes me almost want to repair it enough to use it to make a mold, and then do it in fiberglass...
-
I would use JB weld or a similar product like the one that permatex makes called cold welding compound.
-
I would just put some superglue on the non visible sides of the cracks to keep everything together until you have a chance to replace it or fix it ;D
-
Thanks folks, I did find an expoxy that seems to hold it together pretty well. I'll use that until I find something I can fill holes with.
-
Well, I wanted to see how easy 'plastic welding' was, so I went to Can. Tire, and got the cheapest piece of plastic ABS I could find, and taking my trusty soldering iron
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/eagle41.jpg)
I started welding the split. it actually went really well. First I clamped the piece with a hemostat, and then started melting holes to bond them together.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/eagle36.jpg)
Then I started adding melted ABS to the section, and I did cross-hatch melts to bond everything together.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/eagle40.jpg)
Then, once I had melted alot together, and the overlap was really good
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/eagle43.jpg)
I started sanding it down to make it look better. You can see by the swirls, how much I mixed and melted the plastic together.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/eagle44.jpg)
Now that the cracks are glued, and the broken piece is welded, it's all back together. Now my sanding isn't perfect, but it looks pretty good. The strength is there, it's got flex, but it doesn't seem to want to break. I'll see when I bolt it back on.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/eagle46.jpg)
So right now, it's outside drying. All I have is gloss black paint. I really wanted either satin, or flat black. I'll look for some later.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/grille48.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/grille49.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Parts%20Pics/grille47.jpg)
-
That's pretty cool, looks like it worked very well! ;D
-
Looks good to me. And, the raisins were used for ....................
-
LOLOL, my wife's lunches! yummy ;D
-
Try some of the fusion paint. It will actually bond with the plastic.
I use the rapid fix to repair my grills.
http://rapid-fix-glue.com/
$42.00 for the kit but it works incredible. check out the link
-
Not Bad, not bad at all.
I'm thinking I'm going to have to tri that plastic welding a bit, I've got two grills that could use some R and R.
By the way, we have a sandblaster now jared.
-
Looks good so far dude!
-
WOOOO HOOOOO!!!!!!!!
That is fantastic!!!!! Wow!!! Now we can do some serious body work done! YESSSSS!
Unless the grill is totally wrecked, I might be able to fix it for you. Leave it behind with all the pieces, and you might be surprised. I could probably rebuild it, as long as flat black is your color.
That's awesome Pat! Great news.
Thanks Sunny! It's going on the eagle this weekend.
-
So I've got some pics of the dash off, and brought back a sample of the lights from the dash, and other lights, and I'll have to match them up.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/Dash001.jpg)
Since Pat's gone for the weekend, I couldn't do much. I took apart the driver's side of the headlight bucket (has cracks), and took them home to fix them.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/IMG_0109.jpg)
-
My thoughts are since your heater core isn't getting any younger to change it since the hard work is done.anyway.
-
My thoughts are since your heater core isn't getting any younger to change it since the hard work is done.anyway.
That is a very good idea.
-
We thought of that, but it looks like it's been changed already. But if not, I'm gonna change it. we'll check it out first
-
So I've started fixing the headlight bucket, I actually have two of them, but they are both broken in similar spots - Except for one, that I'm gonna transplant.
Started with the end broke off
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/eagle60.jpg)
The get the plastic melting to it
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/eagle61.jpg)
The build it up, and get it to shape:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/eagle62.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/eagle63.jpg)
All I need to do now, is sand it.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/eagle65.jpg)
Not the best sanding job, but it will work.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle67-1.jpg)
Now the next part is transplanting one section (from the broken piece) to the other bucket. As you can see, I had to make a minor repair to a crack, but it's still good.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/eagle66.jpg)
-
Looks like success to me. Is the repair as strong as, or stronger than the original stuff?
-
The grill repair seems to be as strong or almost stronger then original. I shook the whole grill just by holding the tab that I repaired, and it has some flex, but it seems to be really strong.
So, it seems to be working very well. All I'm using is a soldering iron to melt it, I'm using some expoxy for fill/gluing, and I bought a small piece of ABS pipe (like a collar) I got for like $.34 to use as fill/welding. So as long as when you're 'welding' it, just be sure to really 'mix' the parts together. You'll end up doing more smoothing and sanding, but it's working really good.
-
Here's the same area with a coat of paint on it:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle74.jpg)
Doesn't look too bad... Got the hole drilled and now I gotta transplant that whole section.
-
Got the transplant ready. It looks really close
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/bucket75.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/bucket76.jpg)
some rough sanding, and painted. I could have done a better job of sanding it, but it's gonna be hidden and I've already spent a ton of time on one headlight bucket.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/bucket79.jpg)
-
That is some incredible work! Looks great, have an egg!
-
Bucket saved! Yes, we need to start doing more and more of this type of thing as our parts start to dry up.
-
The grill repair seems to be as strong or almost stronger then original. I shook the whole grill just by holding the tab that I repaired, and it has some flex, but it seems to be really strong.
Looks like a roaring success, congratulations, and egg to you for showing the rest of us how to do it.
-
Nice work Whuntmore! Looks good. I have a bucket that was shot on the SX/4. However it looked like that pic you have with the melted hole. Seemed like it got very hot or even caught fire but there was no other evidence of that. So I guess I will never know why it looked that way...
And one word of caution: please have some decent ventilation when melting the plastic. I have used an iron to melt holes in custom electronics cases and the fumes can be horrendous. They won't leave the house for quite a bit too so the garage or outside are better choices.
-
Thanks everyone, and if it's too cold to be outside, I'm next to the patio door that's wide open. That stuff does stink like heck.
Teamamc: I did check that out (I use the rapid fix to repair my grills.) and that looks pretty cool. That and the plastic welder thingy.
-
Bucket saved! Yes, we need to start doing more and more of this type of thing as our parts start to dry up.
Agreed. Very nice work. I am impressed. Any chance you want open a repair business where we can send you broken or cracked buckets and grills for repair? Just a thought.
-
Thanks for the kind words. As far as doing a repair business (I know you're half-serious) Well... If there was a buck in it, I'd consider it. But the problem is, I could fix - already semi-brittle 23+ year old plastics, and ship them back, and then the rest gets broke. That would suck. I would also have to invest in a better plastic melter.
It's too bad it costs soo much to have molds created (unless you can do it yourself). That's what we need to keep exploring - having this stuff being made brand new (remade) then just fixing. I'm just desperate to be doing this kind of repair, and I also wanted to see if it was possible.
-
Just got my small shipment from the eagle's nest store, and got my adjusters (among my other things)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/bucket84.jpg)
It's all ready to go back on the car.
-
Yeah havinng someone who could fix these well like that is a great idea, but you are right. Shipping would destroy the whole endeavor, not to mention destroy some rare parts.
-
Exactly. I wouldn't trust any shipping company unless I was paying thru the nose. They are not careful enough... etc.
That's my biggest issue - (That and getting cancer from too much fumes! ;D ) and we're still fixing old parts.
-
Exactly. I wouldn't trust any shipping company unless I was paying thru the nose. They are not careful enough... etc.
That's my biggest issue - (That and getting cancer from too much fumes! ;D ) and we're still fixing old parts.
Yeah it is a nice thought, but it would be too expensive for sure. Did not think about the fumes.
Great work though.
-
Quite noxious to be sure.
-
Just a quick update: I got the headlight bucket on my car now, and it worked great. I tightened it up, and no re-cracking, so this type of repair works fine. (I'll get some updated pictures of it on the car - Pics I took yesterday were blurry)
I also ordered in some parts from a local auto supply store - One of the guys who works there, is in our AMC chapter here in Calgary, so I get much better help then the usual. I got two back shocks, and two windshield washer motors
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/ww.jpg)
I'll get a pic of the new shocks today.
I also have two new upper ball joints coming on friday, and we're probably gonna strip all the new front end parts outta Ian's T-boned wagon (more on that later)
Still can't find the short in the wires, but I know bloody well everything turns on the buzzer: Honk the horn, and buzzer also comes on, step on the brake, and buzzer comes on, use the pwr locks, and buzzer comes on.
-
Bucket saved! Yes, we need to start doing more and more of this type of thing as our parts start to dry up.
Agreed. Very nice work. I am impressed. Any chance you want open a repair business where we can send you broken or cracked buckets and grills for repair? Just a thought.
I went to Canadian tire yesterday, and I got one of those Soldering guns (Like I used to own when I was young) and it still comes with those plastic smoothing tips! That's awesome, 'cause now I don't have to worry about ruining my really good soldering iron
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/Solderinggun.jpg)
Now, I can do more plastic repairs... Now, if someone can figure out a way to ship our plastics WITHOUT damaging them, I could probably do them. There's only one problem: I wouldn't be able to handle an onslaught of grilles and buckets, etc coming at me like crazy.
There's also another part of it, who's gonna do all the sanding? ;D I think that would be too much for one person to take on, but I can show you all what I did, and then if any of you want to get this kit (or get the really pro thing from that plastic welding place)
this soldering gun was like $45 Can. It's a Weller Universal Multi-purpose soldering Gun Kit, It's made by Cooper Tools, and The kit number is 8200PK.
-
Nice
-
Let us know how that gun works out. I have one or two of them too.
-
Looks like I need to add a few things to my tool wish list after reading this topic again. Thanks for documenting all of this.
-
Well, the soldering gun is really good for small jobs, but I wouldn't want to do production with it. The Bloody thing gets pretty hot... I had to wear a glove after a bit. I don't know how expensive the good plastic welders are, but if you're short on cash, and you want to do the plastic (grille, buckets, etc) on your car, it's not a bad purchase.
-
Keep up the good work!
-
Thx everyone.
So I got the grille back on, but I didn't bother to paint the headlight bucket trim (from that chrome) to black yet. I'll worry about matching (and Pretty) later on. I just want everything functional.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle24-1.jpg)
The headlight buckets are both solid, and they work like new. with all new adjusters in them, perfect.
Got two shocks on
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle29-1.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle30.jpg)
Now I've got a small list to knock off of what I need done on her.
-
Have you road tested the new shocks yet?
-
No I haven't yet. They're those monroe sensi-track with coil-over. I can't really take it out on the road, as she's got no insurance on it. I've got the dash off, and the wiring harness is hanging everywhere...
but, it did bring the back end up about 31 inches - And that's with all season 215/75R/15's on her.
Oh yeah, I also forgot to mention that the whole dash has all new bulbs in her. I also replaced the front signal bulbs.
-
How many inches of lift did you get back with those shocks? You say it's at 31 inches now. I just need an inch or 2 back from my saggy leafs. I think I made them worse when I jacked up the rear end by placing the jack under the shackles when I dropped the tank for cleaning.
-
ohhh, freaking ouch! I jacked up from the front bolt point of the leaf springs. It almost picked up the whole side, but it worked.
I think I gained almost 1.5 to 2 inches back. I'm not really sure how high the car is supposed to sit, but from the floor, to the the top of the curve on the fender, it's about 31 inches.
-
I will measure it and go from there. Thanks for the TSM check Carver.
-
Well my upper ball joints came in and I got them in.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/IMG_0157.jpg)
on the passenger side, the original ball joint hadn't been changed yet.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/IMG_0163.jpg)
I had to chisel the sucker out. Also, the half shaft was shot, as the boot broke wide open, and it's clunking badly. I'm gonna take the one out of the donor car, and get it in for the time being - Until I can get some new ones to put in.
More pics tomorrow...
-
Progress. That is good. I need to eventually take my dash off and replace bulbs and the gas gauge. Not looking forward to that. Putting the radio in was a big pain, and I swore to never take the dash off again.
-
Some more stuff done tonight, first, we did the front shocks, and Pat thought it'd look cool if we painted the shock towers.
Before them painted
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/shocks64.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/shocks65.jpg)
The got them painted all up,
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/paintedtower.jpg)
and got them back on.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/shocks83.jpg)
and the red shocks in
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/shocks78.jpg)
Now I couldn't swap shafts from the donor car, it's boot isn't very good either, so I ordered a reman one (keep yer fingers crossed on that!) That comes in tomorrow.
-
Nice work. Keep it up. I have been enjoying this post and learning a lot.
-
Nice work. Keep it up. I have been enjoying this post and learning a lot.
Thanks 83eagle! It's a real learning experience for me as well. I'm getting to learn alot about this car.
-
great progress, glad your full steam ahead on this. Altough i was looking forward to the thread when you would have fixed the damage on your now donor car ;D
-
I was disappointed with that as well... I really wanted to fix it, but since I'm 'borrowing' the garage from Mechanic, I'm also on borrowed time here. Plus, the car has to be somewhat mobile, 'cause I'm not the only one wanting access to the garage.
It's not like we could prop it up, and leave it there for months. So, we had to (unfortunately) make a decision, scrap the idea and use it for a parts car.
mechanic has plans for the rest of the car, so it's not like it's going to the scrap yard.
But it's sad we couldn't repair it.
-
Another interesting tidbit that I'm sure most of you guys know but I'll throw it out there anyways. the front shocks on eagles are actually too short for the car, not enough travel.
I can put in a more detailed message later, but basically it looks as if the shocks themselves are limiting straps to keep the half shafts from dropping to far and falling out.
-
lolol, yeah I wanted to paint them anyways to protect the metal from rotting further. I kinda like the red, and since I'm thinking of painting her that darker red color, why not? :)
As I go thru the car, and fix/restore things on it, I'm painting items, cleaning, installing new parts, etc. so when I use - Say the windshield wipers and wash, it works like it should.
Plus, as we're going over it, we're putting undercoating on her, and then we're gonna tackle the rust on the outer body. It's just surface rust now, but I don't want it to become holes later. She might have to go around with Primer on her, but at least it won't rust further. Then probably by summer, we're gonna paint her.
Maybe by that time, I can afford to lay her up for a bit, and redo the motor. I'm sure this project will go months.
-
Jared what are you using for an undercoating? I should probably do mine too.
-
Jared what are you using for an undercoating? I should probably do mine too.
Just that canned stuff from Cambodia tire (or auto parts places). Asphalt undercoating, or that rubberized stuff.
-
Cool thanks!!
-
Those shock tower covers always look better painted.
-
The most wonderful thing about it is (besides it being an eagle) is I get to do whatever I want to this car.
If I want to paint is neon orange, I can. I can gut the inside, I can replace the dash with wood, I can put big @ss tires on it, I can lift it, take the seats out, whatever I want. No questions, begging, getting a NO, or anything. The sky's the limit here (and well, my credit card), and if I screw up, no biggie. My wife don't care.
Not like the car my wife and I share... I can't really cut into that in extremes. She'd kill me.
Now, messing with the eagle is fun, educational, and I can't wait till it's done.
-
Wow, you really get a lot done on that thing when you aren't helping other guys haul cars halfway across Alberta. ;D
-
Yup, I'm trying to get 'er done... thx Dean.
So tonight I went over more wiring (nothing bad yet) and after 1.5 hours of that (zzzzzzzzzz) I got pretty sick of it, so I started working on the back hatch.
Now the original hatch for the car has a bit more rust then I thought and the connectors (??) that are bonded with the wires that run along the glass for the defogger (heater, whatever) also had separated from the glass. But the donor car's hatch is almost rust free (even if it's a different color) and the heater wires are still good on the glass (even though someone spliced the connector ends to the wire braids by just twisting them together) so I took the donor car hatch, soldered those braided wires ends together, and then used my Fusion tape to wrap them up.
Then I pulled the plastic cover off, checked the wiper motor to see if it works (yup!), and I pulled my lock out to switch it on my new hatch.
Taking lock out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b92wr80fISs
Lock back in: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmsyQJRVa4g
Then I ran some new wires for the wiper motor (I just need to get new connectors for both ends), Then I can put the wiper motor back in, and put the hatch back on. I've also changed out the hinges. They looked better on the donor car.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/hatchwires.jpg)
New wires: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dEr16SMgFI
-
She might have to go around with Primer on her, but at least it won't rust further. Then probably by summer, we're gonna paint her.
You may already know this, but primer is porous and will let moisture through to the metal. I suggest getting a good quality primer/sealer so that next summer you just have to wet sand it before painting. Otherwise you will just have to start over with your rust issues.
-
Thanks dusty, I did know that. I'm spraying tremclad rust paint over the primer. I just gotta get a color other then black.
-
Got the new half shaft, and got it in.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/halfshaft.jpg)
Now the wiring issue... We think it could be just the stupid buzzer. We can't find anything else that causes the issues.
-
Great progress. Keep it up.
-
forgot to get pictures this time, but the back hatch is on, I (finally) got it all lined up and it closes great. Since the new half-shaft is in, I could finally move it, so Pat could get his jeep in to fix his wiring on his stereo. I get in and start up the eagle, and the back wiper works perfect!
I've also gotten a longer back wiper blade - 17" and it clears the chrome. The original one iirc, was 16".
And no more clunking in the front end. I'll get pictures next time I'm down.
-
So I got down today and I got some pictures.
Here's a shot of the back hatch on, and re-wired:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle79.jpg)
So I accidentally bent one of the contacts on the back of the instruments, and it became loose. So I soldered it, and then I soldered them all.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle85.jpg)
That's all I got done this weekend. Pat and I spent quite a bit of the day cleaning up the garage.
-
That video was a nice and clear explanation
Make some more.
-
Thanks, I actually got a carb kit, and I managed to get it all together with no issues. Now, whether it's alined right is a different matter, but physically it's together right.
got a lot done today. Pat and I managed to swap all the new steering parts from the donor eagle to Flicker.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/steering1.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/steering2.jpg)
So all it needs is to have an aliment done, and that's that.
So, we gotta finish the carb, Pat is working on taking all the crap (pollution crap) off the car, and Next (I think) is gonna be the windshield. We'll see what we can get done.
-
So here's a pic of the carb almost completely stripped.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/carbpic.jpg)
I got a carb kit and I also got the new floats. Now, one thing I did do is you're supposed to 'bend' the floats till they are 1/4 inch from the top of that section to the crest of the float. (you have to flip it upside down to measure this) and then once that's done, then you can start putting the rest in. Now, there are several adjustments to rebuilding it, and I'm going thru it, but that's what I've adjusted so far.
-
If you have a Firestone near you, they do have an optional Lifetime Alignment. Check it every 6 months or each tire rotation!
-
I just rebuilt my carb with a kit. My floats were fine but out of adjustment. Make sure to look out for the check balls when you're moving things around. Tiny buggers
-
Well, we got the carb on the car, and it fired up. Needs some more adjusting, but it actually fired up. My first carb rebuild, and it works. Amazing.
So I found some wine colored spray, and I did the breather pan. It's kind of a red wine with a touch of purple.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/pan.jpg)
then I had to get a new solenoid, and that on.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/solenoid.jpg)
You might also notice that there's an inline heater on the hose. That came off my donor car. Do that sucker ever get hot!
last thing today was brakes. I had to replace the cylinders, shoes, all springs, plus all the adjusters and the star adjuster.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/brakes.jpg)
the drums are coming in tomorrow, and I'll have them on the car by noon. I think next is gonna be redoing the windshield. We also have to upgrade the ignition. We'll see what's next to tackle.
-
better pics:
Finally got the drums in, and on. all the brakes are done.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/drumoff.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/drumon.jpg)
We also had a small issue with the E brake cable. the two coming from the drums are good, but the main one was rusted solid. So Luckily the one on the donor car was the opposite. We took the main E cable off, soaked it in graphite till it came out the other end, and then got it on Flicker. Works perfectly.
So the carb needs some adjusting, but the car runs. We got all the brakes done, E brake done, carb on and semi tuned, and I got the wiring issue fixed (I think) and then we rolled it out for a shot.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/carshot.jpg)
then Pat and I took it for a short run on the back road. It hesitates a bit when giving it 'the heavy foot' but otherwise, seems to run ok. I'll post the video of a short run asap. Pat got sand for his sandblaster, and we played around with it doing rims, and some rust spots on the car.
We're really close to this car being safetied for the road. Aliment, windshield done, the rest of my tail lights, and then I want the carb adjusted.
-
Yes, you should post some pics of the samd blasting if you took any.
-
well, tomorrow when you test the cold weather start up, get a shot of her with some of the rust spots we treated.
Here's the video of her running. Since there's no insurance, I just took it up and down the driveway, with a quick cross of the road. No great video, but I just wanted to post her running pretty good for the first time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt5qqgNh_D0
-
Sounds great. Nice work. Looks like you have it running really nicely.
-
Nice. It is good to see that one of these birds flies again...
I wonder when I can show that kid of vid...
-
Ok, i'll see what I can do. started right up by the way, we think the choke gap is a little less then it should be but the car started right up without much of a complaint. I did notice the brakes are still a little soft and the E-brake dosen't hold so it needs ajusting. but that's it.
-
wicked. I figured that choke was not working quite right, but I'll have to grind it off, and put a better one on then.
Yeah, the brakes are just slightly soft, and the E-brake was a bit easy to push down, so I figured it would need some tightening, but otherwise, it all works like new! That's awesome, thx for all the help. eggs to Pat!
-
Something else I forgot to mention: We were looking all over town for the ignition upgrade, and we discovered it had already been done! The distributor already has the adaptor and the Ford cap. So we changed out the wires (from 7mm to 8mm) and changed out all the plugs.
Looks like the P.O. started doing this kind of work, but when he got his '54 ford (I think that's the year) he abandoned the eagle, and started on the ford. Works for me!
-
So today I took out the windshield for a new one. My god that was hard to cut out. It wasn't that black putty that they use, it was rubber.
Took 3 hrs, 4 guitar strings, a bunch of wire, several olfa blades, some knuckle skin and allot of swearing.
first took the chrome off and started cutting the window out.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle24-2.jpg)
Then I did some sandblasting so I wouldn't be vacuuming for weeks. I did around the window as much as I could.
finally got the window out:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle29-2.jpg)
and then Pat was able to help me scrape out all that rubber.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle30-1.jpg)
I pretty much spent all day on that. Tomorrow I'll do some more sandblasting then I gotta get the surface ready for a new windshield. Any ideas on how to prep it.
-
Whuntmore, get your metal prep and painting done first. Then after it has had a chance to cure, you can start on the prep for the new windshield. There should be some rubber spacers that you had to cut out of the old urethane. If they are still useable, then put a dab of new urethane on the bottoms of them and stick them on in roughly the same spot that they came out of. Let the urethane set up for a bit so that they do not slide around while you try to put the new windshield in. Next, put a bead of urethane around the frame that is slightly higher than the rubber spacers. Make sure to cover the top of the spacers as well as around the perimiter of them. That is the most common area for a new windshield to leak. After that, get a friend to help you lower the new windshield into place, this is a great time to have some rubber gloves on because that urethane will get everywhere and it will not come off your hands for a really long time! After the windshield is in place, carefully "thump" it with the palm of your hand all the way around the edges. This will help to seat it in the urethane properly. Do not "thump" it too hard though or you will risk cracking it. Once it is in, then you will want to clean up the stray urethane that will undoubtedly get all over the place. Mineral spirits or goof off works well for this but watch out for paint that has not had enough time to cure! you will damage that nice glossy look with caustic chemicals. Next is to get the trim back on. Someone chime in here because I cannot remember, but I think that the Eagle has the clips that need to be set into the urethane to hold them in. If this is the case, then dab a little urethane on the end of each clip and press it into the window channel. This is what holds it in for all those high speed maneuvers. ;D After you have all the trim pieces aligned, make sure to use some masking tape to hold them tight against the windshield and body. Be generous with the tape, this will assure that the trim pieces sit flat.
Some added notes:
Roll down the windows slightly before you start and keep them down until the urethane has had a chance to cure. if not, then you run the risk of blowing out the seal that you just worked so hard to attain.
If you lost the rubber spacers, check with a local body shop.
Take your time in setting up everything you need before you start. After you get going, there is no stopping.
You can take the time to mask off around the windshield with tape and newspaper if you want, this will pay off in the long run with trying to track down all the nasty black goo that is left behind.
Wear clothes that you don't care about and have lots of rags within reach.
Please add more if anyone can think of it.
Dustin
-
Thanks for all that info Dustin, but we are not gonna put in the window, just prep it for the install. it's $225 installed here, so we're just gonna let the guy do it. El Matador recommended these guys, and several other suppliers also said these guys do a really good job.
we gotta deal with some rust (no rot) and there's two uneven welds in the top corners (gotta grind them down a bit) and I might have to put some short hair fiberglass to do a bit of fill to even it out. Or bondo, or whatever. then some primer, then some paint. I do know we gotta get the rust completely out.
So then (from what I've been told), bondo or FG the uneven areas (right to clean metal) then primer, then several thin coats of paint.
-
If the shop is going to install it for you all you need to do is provide a good painted surface for them. On my Eagle the top corners had body caulking in them to level out the joins and so that was what I put back before the paint went on. I ordered my windshield about a month and a half ago and hubby sent me an email today saying it finally came in - I was getting worried that they couldn't get one.
-
Any special type of paint, or just car paint, or tremclad rust paint? Can it be satin finish, or have to be gloss? (I'm not going to use any flat type paint)
Also, for the tan/cream outer color, is there a close match in tremclad/Krylon paint? I know I got rocker paint in cream, and it's sooo close in color, that you wouldn't be able to tell except for the texture.
Thx.
-
Sorry, got a little carried away on that last post. :) If the rust left craters in the metal, then you should neutralize the rust first. There are many ways to do this, but my dad always used naval jelly. If the rust is just on the surface then you can skip that step and just lightly grind the areas that need filler. after neutralizing the rust you can do a light grinding over the surfaces to be filled. This is to give the filler something to grab on to. A note about grinding: use a flexible fiber disk, or red disk as we always called them, a hard disk will leave notches or valleys in the metal that take extra time to fill and weaken the structure. After that, use the filler of your choice. Let it set, get out the sanding blocks. Sand, fill low spots, sand, fill low spots and on and on. Here's a tip use a coarse sanding paper to sand your filler and then use red putty, or scratch filler on the deep scratches. Then switch to a 180 grit or 220 grit. That will help to minimize the time it takes to step down through all the progressively finer grits of sandpaper. Once you are done, clean the surface with paint thinner, mask off what you don't want to paint and then spray on a good thick primer. Wet sand with 400 or 600 grit paper to get a perfect finish. If any metal shows through, than re-prep and prime and wet sand. When it is just the paint left, use a wax and grease cleaner to get all contaminates off. Last is paint. Too many tips here, so I am going to throw in a good link. There are many good write ups here for a multitude of autobody related projects.
http://www.autobody101.com/content/articles/basics-of-basics/
Good luck!
Dustin
-
There are also some paint tips on this site for using rattle cans. And some paint stores can paint match your car and put it into a rattle can for you. This is not cheap, but it is a good quality paint.
-
I saw that, and thanks for the website. I've been reading since you posted it. Good info to know - Thx Dustin! egg for that. I also gotta get some video of the clips and getting the chrome off, as another member asked about that. So I'm gonna have to shoot some video.
-
Any special type of paint, or just car paint, or tremclad rust paint? Can it be satin finish, or have to be gloss? (I'm not going to use any flat type paint)
Also, for the tan/cream outer color, is there a close match in tremclad/Krylon paint? I know I got rocker paint in cream, and it's sooo close in color, that you wouldn't be able to tell except for the texture.
Thx.
It doesn't matter if the paint you use is satin, gloss, or flat. The installer will paint the channel with a special black primer that will adhere well to any of them. Tremclad would be my last choice assuming you have a rust free surface, I don't think it sticks very well, at least to surfaces with any rust on them. Its been my experience and the opinion of the professional painter who painted my car that rattle can paints are less durable than the paint an autobody shop uses. Some places can put an autobody paint in a can for you and if you do that you can get the original colour for your car as well. That'd be my first choice if I were you, but use an etching primer first for good adhesion of the top coat. On the seams in the upper corners although I used body caulking I think fiberglass filler is a better choice. The body caulking I used didn't seem to have great adhesion so I'm wondering if down the road my car might develop leaks there and I'll be pulling the windhield again to do it over.
-
Here is an idea that might help removing window glass. I used it on many AMC's to get the glass out. Take a propane torch, small or large, just watch your heat on the larger one, heat the glass all the way around, evenly as possible, then go inside and apply pressure to the inside and gently push it out. You may want to experiment with an old one so you get the feel of what you have to do. It sure beets using wire and cutting the crap out of your hands. I mostly used the small hand held propane torches. Too much heat in one spot and you'll have a mess along with a broken glass.
-
yeah, that would work if it was just the tar stuff, but most of it was silicone.
anyways, it's out now.
-
I have put probably a dozen windshields and rear windows in various cars over the years. The cars ranged from 75-79 novas, 69 camaro ss, 75 Catalina, 79-82 Concords and a few caddys . The best material to install with on these older cars is 9/16 inch butyl rubber on a roll but 1/2 inch will do. This allows the window to float a bit with the body flex that will happen on a vintage car and it never hardens. The Eagle I have now had it's windshield installed with the rigid stuff that is intended for newer cars that use the windshield as part of the structure of the vehicle. Needless to say that it has cracks all over originating from the edges. The guy I got the car from said it cracked like that within weeks of being installed.
Now depending on where you are will determine how easy or hard it will be to get your hands on this stuff. Here in Winnipeg it has been outlawed for the past 10 years but can be found at a places that do conversion vans since they use it for the aftermarket side windows and roof vents.
The last time I needed the stuff all they had in stock was 1/4 inch so I just very carefully doubled it up. That was 4 years ago in a Pontiac Catalina and it is still a perfect seal and will probably remain so for decades.
So if anyone has a line on any of the 9/16 inch butyl rubber stuff then please pm me.
-
The Eagle I have now had it's windshield installed with the rigid stuff that is intended for newer cars that use the windshield as part of the structure of the vehicle. Needless to say that it has cracks all over originating from the edges. The guy I got the car from said it cracked like that within weeks of being installed.
If you check the Eagle service manual Eagle windshields are meant to be installed with urethane, not butyl. They were done this way from the factory and yes on an eagle the windshield is part of the safety structure of the vehicle in event of a rollover and for that reason urethane is required. If your eagle had cracks in the windshield that was due to some other problem with the installation, not the use of the factory required urethane.
-
Great thread Man !! May I ask where you got the new brake drums ???
Some real ingunity and perserverance with that plastic weld work . Egg2U.
-
Great thread Man !! May I ask where you got the new brake drums ???
Some real ingunity and perserverance with that plastic weld work . Egg2U.
Thanks for the kind words. The plastic welding took a bit of research, but I got it done. It's good to know we can repair those items considering how easy they are to break, and the fact you can't order them.
I got the new drums at a car supplier. One of the guys in our AMC chapter has a Car parts store. He got them in. Other then that, I couldn't tell you.
-
Got all the rear tail lights all replaced and everything done in the back
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle49.jpg)
I know the picture doesn't really show anything, but it's done back there. Then I got it all put back together
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle63-1.jpg)
Then got the windshield area all cleaned up, and filled, and primed
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle44.jpg)
Then we started painting that area (we are using plastic to cover up the open area - seats, dash area, etc)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle57.jpg)
it's gonna need several more coats of paint.
Then between drying times, (putty or paint) I started putting the dash together,
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle54.jpg)
It's gonna take a bit more time, but I'm hoping to have it all back on by the end of the weekend.
-
Nice work. Keep the updates coming.
-
Now I'm worried about the tremclad I've been using under the window. And now as Priya, and the glass place have told me, Tremclad is the last thing to use. Too freaking late...
The window shop said if I let it dry for a day or two, it won't be too bad. I did use etching primer. Hopefully, if the guy uses just that tar stuff, and if I ever have to 'redo' that area again, I'll carefully pull out the windshield, and do it with much better paint.
I just hope it lasts a few years...
-
Well, I finally got the dash back in (after fighting with it for 2 hours) and I lost more skin on that one (dash 1, Eagle member 0)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle73.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle74-1.jpg)
got the clips all on, and then the guy put the windshield in.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle76.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle75.jpg)
The whole dash isn't completely done, but the top part is in place. So I just have to give it some time to cure, and then it's off to the shop for an aliment, and get the carb properly tuned.
I should be able to drive her home after all that.
-
it's lookin' really good!
-
So much work in such a little bit of time, yup you've been bitten by the bug
-
Have another Good Egg for all the good work.
It reminds me of something -
I had a windshield replaced in the 88. Then I had it in the shop for something that required removing the dash.
The shop called and said the dash wouldn't come out because it was glued to the windshield!
I gave the shop the number for the glass shop and said to work it out. It all finally got done.
-
Do you know how long I've been waiting to see a picture of how those trim clips work or a "how to" on removing trim? So it looks like I would have to slide a tool into the outer edge of the trim and by pushing on the right side of the clip it would force it to the left and outward. Is that right?
-
Do you know how long I've been waiting to see a picture of how those trim clips work or a "how to" on removing trim? So it looks like I would have to slide a tool into the outer edge of the trim and by pushing on the right side of the clip it would force it to the left and outward. Is that right?
Take the sides out first: unclip the side top section (if you can), then get a screwdriver (flat tip) under that 'hook' in the top bend (side clip) and just slide it out.
Do the same for the other side, and then the top and bottom will practically slide out (unclip one clip) Same on the bottom.
I did a video, It's not great, but you'll get the basic idea - here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfwOid9FWxY
-
Thanks so much, if you take any of the vinyl roof trim or wheel mouldin trim off the 80 2 door please post another video since thats what I have and I want to prep the car for paint myself. I saved the link to the video to favorites.
-
I'm the last person you should be asking. I know very little about body work, and I don't own an '80 2 door.
Are you thinking of the Pics I posted of El Matador's 2 door coupe eagles? I went out and assisted with the saves, but none of those cars are mine. He's got two of those, I only have the 2 wagons.
So just a quick update, the dash is mostly on, everything seems to work pretty good, and right now Pat has it at the Mechanic's shop doing an aliment, carb checked for adjustment, and (if it will pass) a safety inspection.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/trimdone.jpg)
-
Pat (Mechanic) called me yesterday, and the only thing the car needs to pass safety, is a pitman arm. We couldn't remove the one off the donor car, so Now I have to buy an '84 pitman arm for a '86 eagle (considering all the other steering components were '84.).
They also went around with a screwdriver looking for soft spots in the underside, and found none. that's awesome.
The carb that I rebuilt was very close, but I didn't get the pump arm adjusted quite right. That's fixed, so now no more hesitating. Pat says it runs great.
Other then that, she's almost ready. I think by about Wednesday, it can come home.
-
Congratulations. All that hard work is paying off.
I think most front end parts are interchangeable from year to year.
If you check part numbers you may find that 84 and 86 take the same parts.
Seems to me that my 83 and 88 front end parts are interchangeable.
-
Congratulations. All that hard work is paying off.
I think most front end parts are interchangeable from year to year.
If you check part numbers you may find that 84 and 86 take the same parts.
Seems to me that my 83 and 88 front end parts are interchangeable.
Thx Jim. The pitman arm - from what I understand - has one difference from the '84 to the 86. the pin is smaller on the '84. I already have a decent pitman arm, but it won't fit properly, and the steering has too much play. So I have to get an '84 pitman arm so it will seat in all the way into the steering assy. All that is off the 84. I didn't think it would matter either, but it's not fitting right. So I have to replace it. weird huh?
I did drive the car up to the garage, and other then the excessive play in the steering, she drives pretty decent. I still have more to do on the dash, but everything seems to work right. the 4x4 switches on and off, the tailgate wiper and heater is perfect... front door's bushings are new...
Yeah, quite a bit of work, but she's almost there. I can't wait till she's legal.
Oh, yeah... Hopefully Mechanic will chime in here and tell us how the shop razzed us about our spotty paint job. It looks like crap, but as long as the rust is held at bay, I don't care. Maybe by summer, we can do a proper, er, better job.
-
Well today I brought down a pitman arm, and it needed new stabilizers. It's all on now. (I'll get some pics for tomorrow).
Flicker passed safety, and she's ready to be put on the road.
El Matador came over, and we started tearing down my donor car, and Pat is gonna use the motor and tranny to fix his SX/4, and then we gotta cut off the front to fix his blue wagon. EM just basically looted the car for whatever he could.
-
Thx carver.
After seeing 'Pepper's mods, I don't think 'Flicker' we be able to follow that car any where. Maybe from the road to the start of the trail, but that'd be about it! lolol. That is some lift.
But, I should be driving for the next meet. That'd be great. After Boxing Day, I'll get her lic'd for the road.
-
Glad you got Flicker ready for the road. That is great. I have really liked following this post. Thanks for all the documentation.
-
thanks 83Eagle! but I had a couple of family emergencies over xmas.
First, my cat of over 14 years had to be put down because of kidney failure - And short of kidney transplant, we pretty much did everything we could (IV flushes, pills...) she was old - I got her when she was about 2 years old, so when she died, she was over 16 years old.
Then not even 5 days after that, I found out my mom has to go in to get a biopsy done.
So Flicker got put on hold. hopefully Monday the 3rd, I can get the licensing done.
-
Family comes first. I am sorry to hear about your cat. Sounds like she had a good lond run though.
Sorry to hear about the biopsy. Do I need to add your Mom to my prayer list?
-
Family comes first. I am sorry to hear about your cat. Sounds like she had a good lond run though.
Sorry to hear about the biopsy. Do I need to add your Mom to my prayer list?
Thanks for that. I'll keep you posted if you might need to add her.
I will update this thread as soon as the car is licensed for the road. I did go down yesterday and start her up, she started up right away, considering she had been sitting for over a week after being fixed up.
-
I finally got the car licensed for the road, it has plates now, and she's got insurance for the year. So now all I have to do is get the plate on the car, and she's good to go.
This spring and summer will be more mods, repairs, and upgrades. I think like other projects here, it ends up as a work in progress. I imagine by the time I have the drivetrain rebuilt or upgraded, get the interior fixed up (seats redone, and new carpet) I'm sure it will be a year or two.
-
Nice! Always feels good to take a project for its first legal drive. Hear ya on the work in progress, lol, mine is 10 years and counting :rotfl: (not eagle).
-
Nice! Always feels good to take a project for its first legal drive. Hear ya on the work in progress, lol, mine is 10 years and counting :rotfl: (not eagle).
Holy! Yup, I can see that. but you did alot more to your (SX/4?) then I did to this car. I wanted to get it safe to drive, but there's tons more to do. I'd love to completely strip the sucker down, and redo it from the ground up. Someday I will be able to do that.
Shaggimo, do you have any updates to your eagle? Love to see it.
-
lol, my malibu has been then the 10 year project car, I don't think I'll ever get it "done" :laughing1: . Girlies' eagle is in storage for the winter so no progress, haven't done much to it since spring except for getting it to be a reliable driver. Her car got a semi-tear down and paint over the course of 6 months (2009), it's just a matter of reassembling the interior in the spring (was having too much fun driving everywhere last summer I guess, lol). I'm working on a few other small things with it, new wheel idea, new bumper idea, ect, but nothing major. I was going to do an engine swap, but it runs too dang good to disturb, lol.
-
All Eagles (heck any older car) are always project cars. That is if you drive them like they were intended to be.
-
Well, I drove her home last night... Man! She drove great! I had no problems doing 100K down the highway, never stalled once, everything worked right with no issues on the drive. She just drove. Kinda cool driving her, got a few looks too! My wife was driving behind her and didn't think Flicker would do that speed. I didn't think she would either.
I'm totally hooked now, all I want to do is drive her around.
I'm sure there will be issues here and there - As other old parts die, but did she ever go good last night. My wife was even impressed.
Then I took my wife for a quick cruise in Flicker, and we went up into a side road off-leash area, where the parking lot is mainly dirt, and I showed her how good Flicker is in the snow - Driving her thru the a joining field. Carol was like, "you're going to get stuck..." Nope... Flicker walked in and out like it was a dry city road.
Then she was like 'Wow, this is gonna be great next snow fall', yer damm right.
I still have a ton to do on her, but that was rewarding.
-
Now you are going to have to get the Mrs her own Eagle ;D
For sure! Maybe I'll take that 2 door sport off Dean, and build that one up for Carol. I still have to finish this one, to where I know she'll be a dependable DD, and then yeah, I'll have to get another one (Dammit, it's started already - I'm already thinking of my next eagle. Have I got a fever? Do I need more Cowbell?).
My wife is short - Like 5'1" tall (me being 6'3" tall, a bit of difference) and when she was getting in Flicker, she was having to hop up. That was great. She was like 'Crap, I can't get in your car'. lolol. I thought I was gonna have to get her a stool.
-
The car looks great. It is very rewarding to effortlessly plow through snow. Glad to hear your hard work is paying off.
-
Maybe I'll take that 2 door sport off Dean
That's a mighty big "Maybe". ;D
If I go to the sanctuary and see an empty space where it once stood, I now know where to look first. :P
-
Glad you got it out on the road. That is great. Always a great feeling to do the maiden voyage after rebuilding and fixing things.
-
Glad you got it out on the road. That is great. Always a great feeling to do the maiden voyage after rebuilding and fixing things.
for sure. Really feels good when everything you did worked really well. Thx for the support.
EM - What you mean? You said you wanted it saved, well if I save it, it's saved, right? So there. And you know I'll get alot more done... So there! Fork it over. I got plans for that sucker, and I'm da mon to get it done. Look how much I got done on flicker here. You know I could get that sucker to pass safety, so don't let it rot in that field there Dean ole' buddy, give (ok sell) it to someone who will care for it, love it, and fix it up to it's prior glory.
I'll allow you to re-consider your position... ;D ;D ;D
-
All you need is one with air ride, or one of those that bounce up and down!! LOL
-
Ok, so I haven't updated this in a bit... but I finally got the intermitted wipers to work (thanks for the help!) and I put everything else back together.
Here's all the dash back in (Minus a radio)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle383.jpg)
The back is all back together
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/eagle385.jpg)
So now that we are finally getting some warmer weather (thank God!!) I can get to work to re-wire my back locks (electric all around) as the wires were cracked badly. I'll get those done, then a radio wired in, and I'll probably get a CB radio put in sometime in the future.
I'm still having starting issues with that bloody carb. Maybe I'll upgrade it to something better, and rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing.
-
Hey looks great !! Nice work. Question: What is the second toggle switch for to the right of the "non=existint radio" ?? I am guessing one is the rear defroster , like mine has , but the other ???
-
The furtherest right switch? That the rear wiper.
The one closer to the radio hole is the defogger, and the other one (right of that switch) is the back wiper. That's the factory spot where it goes, and not a mod I did.
-
So of course this is ongoing...
The car died on the side of the road on May the 7th, and I had to leave it overnight before we could rescue it. No harm came to her.
I'm getting no spark whatsoever. Starter block, spark Plugs, wires, dist. cap... and now the ignition module.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/MotorcraftHEI.jpg)
The bloody car still won't get any spark here. I've almost replaced everything that can cause/fail spark.
I think (Please correct me If I've missed anything or I'm wrong here) but the only two things I've got left to swap out here is the coil, and the module inside the dist. (can that be changed out?)
Now my car had the Distributor upgraded already (I've got the ford Dist. on it) so I don't know what I would have to fix on it.
When I went to the parts counter, Steve (he is one of our AMC Members here) said that I had a '77-81 dist. He said it's the same number for all those Ford I6 300 cid engines.
Now is there anything to fix/change out on the inside of the Dist?
-
There is a piece in the distributor, I'd call it the pick up coil, but some may call it the pick up pole piece assembly. Check condition of the wires first, and also check the reluctor wheel.
-
besides bad wires/connection, I wouldn't know what I was looking for... On the reluctor wheel (that thing that passes by those magnets, contacts, whatever they are, that what you mean?
What should I be looking for? Sorry Shag, I haven't got a clue...
-
No prob, it is this thing right here..
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz55/shaggimo/EAGLE/PICKUPCOIL.jpg)
It is what's under the rotor.
Just check for burn spots or corrosion on the reluctor wheel.
-
Ok, now is there anyway to fix/clean it, or just buy a new one? Since I've got the ford distributor and cap/rotor, I take it I'll just need the ford replacement?
Thanks for the help Shagg!
-
I'm going to send you a PM. I just dealt with some spark issues on my car.
-
Thank you for the help Sonny, I egged ya for the writeup! (I egg'd both you and Shaggimo)
I got a coil, since it was only $40, I got the yellow 8140. says it's 42,000 volts. That should work.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4115FSEM5DL.jpg)
-
Make sure you have the LARGE adapter and cap/rotor combo. Don't add 40K volts tot he stock cap or you will have wicked crossfire problems. Do you or don't you have the TFI swap? Just want to be clear, if so, the FOMOCO TFI coil is surperior to this pot coil. email me if you need the technical write up. If you were troublshooting ignition probs and had to replace the ICM anyway, I might have dropped in the HEI for about $100. 1 wire and simple.
-
I have the large dist. cap. It was converted before I got the car. It's the upgraded one for the ford I6 300 cid.
what does HEI stand for? that's the ignition block shown here, right?
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/MotorcraftHEI.jpg)
-
I have the large dist. cap. It was converted before I got the car. It's the upgraded one for the ford I6 300 cid.
what does HEI stand for? that's the ignition block shown here, right?
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/MotorcraftHEI.jpg)
High Energy Ignition... Chevy used HEI on their V8s in the 80s on some of their cars. The 'bay has several 50-65k volt units for sale, entire distributor assembly.
-
A lot of ebay distributors dont put out anywhere near the voltage they claim, or don't last very long.
A lot of the companys are sending out their electronics to China these days... Ebay 'no name' electronics rarely hold up in my experience.
They tend to have very low quality standards.
I just picked up a new MSD distributor yesterday, and that, even compared to the Taylor HEI I had before that, seem's a LOT more solidly built...although it should be for the price.
My Taylor lasted about 8 months before the module completely shorted out and left burn/melt marks everywhere.. so I had an old stock GM one I had laying around in.. and the springs inside were seized, so I just picked up a new one.
-
A lot of ebay distributors dont put out anywhere near the voltage they claim, or don't last very long.
A lot of the companys are sending out their electronics to China these days... Ebay 'no name' electronics rarely hold up in my experience.
They tend to have very low quality standards.
I just picked up a new MSD distributor yesterday, and that, even compared to the Taylor HEI I had before that, seem's a LOT more solidly built...although it should be for the price.
My Taylor lasted about 8 months before the module completely shorted out and left burn/melt marks everywhere.. so I had an old stock GM one I had laying around in.. and the springs inside were seized, so I just picked up a new one.
yeah, that is true. The only problem with MSD is $$$$$ but at the same time, you get what you pay for.
-
Yeah. I was really holding off..
I got it 50% off on sale though.. just my luck :D It ended up being like.. 50$ more than a new Taylor, when it's normally over twice the price.
The Taylor worked great, while it worked.. but it started having problems within about 7 months.. and by 8 months it was completely fried... I took it apart and noticed they cheaped out on certain parts....
I checked the MSD out before I bought it, and it's solid..so.. cross my fingers? I dropped it in, and it fired right up, so I'm hoping for the best haha.
On the otherhand, I've found Taylor WIRES work amazing. I definitely had more spark through them than the MSD wires that were on my dad's car. [We swapped one of each wire on to mines and tested it just for fun.] I've read MSD wires have a lot higher resistance, and result in a bit lower spark output.. I didnt use a multimeter or anything, so there could be no truth to that..I just judged based on how bright the spark was from my spark tester.
-
I rarely shop on Evilbay. The only time I've bought anything off evilbay is something I couldn't get anywhere else - Actually I've only ever bought one thing off a seller... ever.
I got the dist. cap at a AMCA members car parts store, and the Accel coil I just bought (exactly like the one here) I had to get at a performance shop.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4115FSEM5DL.jpg)
-
I love E-bay. You can find some great deals if you check often.
I managed to get a set of headers that a shop here wanted almost 1000$ for, for 200$, shipped to my door. I was the only bidder. They were slightly used, but the guy said they were too loud so he took them off.
I had to fight with him a little to send them to me though.. He was apparently expecting around 600$ for them.. and it cost him 144$ to ship them to Canada..So he only made like 56$..so he was really unhappy I was the only bidder.. but I did get them, so I call it a victory.. hah
-
that's cool...
Well, we got it running. The coil was fried. Actually, it was fried so perfectly, that it had damm near the same ohms that it should new... that was confusing...
So I put the new coil on, and bang, she started up first click of the key. Now Pat just needs a T-35 Torx head, to get out one of those bolts holding the coil onto the block, and she should be ok.
Thanks again for all the help.
-
Suggestion, run a 12V ceramic resistor to trhe + side of your coil wiring. It will help regulate the voltage and save your coil(s) from burning out. I always use a stand alone resistor for the HEI swap and I've never had one burn up (yet)
-
Suggestion, run a 12V ceramic resistor to trhe + side of your coil wiring. It will help regulate the voltage and save your coil(s) from burning out. I always use a stand alone resistor for the HEI swap and I've never had one burn up (yet)
do you have a pic of this steup? any part numbers for this resistor? What kind or type?
-
(http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/graphics/Product_Graphics/Product_3955.jpg)
Mount to something metal because it will get hot!
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/store_product_detail.cfm?Product_ID=3955&Category_ID=2&Sub_Category_ID=29
Product info:
1947-55 Ignition Resistor 12V
Part Number: AD-475-IR
12 volt ballast resistor is used when your 12 volt coil does not have one built in.
-
I've edited your post, and posted the product number and page to find it.
Thanks for the much needed info Gronk.
-
it's been awhile since I really did any work to the car - I've pretty much been enjoying it like I should.
But I found someone who was selling a brand new (NOS) gauge! (system, package, whatever)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/DSC06860.jpg)
check out the odometer:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/DSC06861.jpg)
I'm considering winding the odometer to the proper mileage, so I'll need my dremel, and my flex cord, or another speedo cable to do it.
I've tried taking an old one apart to do it manually, but it's just to fidgety....
-
Is that tach adjustable according to the number of cylinders?
-
Is that tach adjustable according to the number of cylinders?
I've never personally tried it (yet), but I believe it is. There's a hole in the back and what appears to be a potentiometer, so a small screwdriver can be stuck in to turn it.
The tach pictured here is factory calibrated for a 4 cylinder.
-
Dude , I have one of those , and one in Mph too. That s sweet. How did you find out if it was for a 4cyl. or a 6cyl ? I didn't think to ask when I got mine. I got the Kph one thinking someday someone here might be looking for one.
-
I think they are for either/or - I was told you can adjust them for either a 6 or a 4 cyl.
There's a little piece of tape on the back of the tach, and you put another tach on the car, and you adjust it, till it's right on.
-
Dude , I have one of those , and one in Mph too. That s sweet. How did you find out if it was for a 4cyl. or a 6cyl ? I didn't think to ask when I got mine. I got the Kph one thinking someday someone here might be looking for one.
The one's I have are stamped on the back with "6 cyl". I know the V8 ones are stamped "8 cyl" so I presume the 4 cylinder ones are stamped "4 cyl".
-
it's stamped "4 cyl" on the back.
I was told you can adjust the 'pot' in the back, between 4 and 6 cyl engines. From what I understand, that's all they do.
It's the same tach for both cars, it's just adjusted differently, stamped for which number of cyl's it's adjusted for, and shipped off. It's not like a company would buy two separate tach's for two different motors, when they can buy one type tach, and be able to adjust it for either motor.
You can use two tach's, re-set the one I've got here while comparing it to the 'Second tach', and it should be good.
-
My husband says that on most tachs there's a very big change in frequency between 4, 6, and 8 and its a hard switch to change from one to the other. He says the screw in the back may just be a trimmer to handle small changes to fine tune the tach, particularly if you switch distributors, an HEI for example will probably have a slightly different frequency than a Ford style. He says AMC might be different, but I'll try to have a look in the Technical Service Manual later on and see if it says anything.
-
After my conversation with the seller, (and what he said) it made more sense that the AMC eagle tach, is a common, adjustable tach over a few different engines (considering their keeping costs as low as possible)... So it made perfect sense that the one tach would serve for both engines.
Maybe that's why the eagle tach is soo prone to failing.
but, I could be wrong.
Let me know if you find anything to the contrary.
-
I've had aftermarket tach's that had a switch at the back for 4/6/8. Mine was an actual switch though, not a screw turn... but it's definitely possible to have it a multi engine tach.
-
The Technical Service Manual doesn't say anything about the differences between tachs for 4,6, and 8 cylinder engines, it says very little at all with the possible exception of the lines:
"Tachometers are not adjustable. Replace if defective."
I'm not sure in what sense they mean not adjustable, but maybe its referring to adjusting the rpm indicated for a given frequency received which would mean one can't adjust a 4 cylinder tach to work on a 6 cylinder motor and so on.
-
The Technical Service Manual doesn't say anything about the differences between tachs for 4,6, and 8 cylinder engines, it says very little at all with the possible exception of the lines:
"Tachometers are not adjustable. Replace if defective."
I'm not sure in what sense they mean not adjustable, but maybe its referring to adjusting the rpm indicated for a given frequency received which would mean one can't adjust a 4 cylinder tach to work on a 6 cylinder motor and so on.
it probably means that if the tach is off [say by 200RPM] there is no adjustment to correct it.
I've seen some older speedometers that can be adjusted [say at idle it should read 0 and reads under or over.. you can adjust it]. So maybe it's just saying the tach does not have that feature?
-
Your guess is as good as mine, Sunny.
-
Your guess is as good as mine, Sunny.
Yeah. I'm just completely guessing haha.
-
I think it was determined a few years back that the tachs are engine specific. That's why I asked in the first place.
If you can get it to work on a six cylinder please let me know how you did it so I can archive the info.
I tried to do a search but it seems that most everything back past 2010 is gone.
-
I mean if it doesn't work, it doesn't matter anyways, 'cause it's the wrong tach anyways, so what difference is it gonna make if I try to adjust it?
And if it does work, well, it will be like Smitch said, it will be a really good write up for the Eaglepedia.
My other tach is shot, this one is the wrong one, so who cares?
I'll keep ya all posted regardless, I'm just surprised no one hasn't tried it yet...
-
I haven't read throught he entire thread yet but Tachs are cyl specific. Some have a switch on the back (some have it inside) where you can switch it from 4-6-8 but most do not. I have a few universal tachs that have an external switch for doing this. They will still read on the incorrect application but will noy be accurate.
-
well, I haven't posted in a while, but I thought I'd update this.
I now have a set of winter tires (complete on jeep rims). The rims have been cleaned up, and powered coated (according to El Matador) the tires are those Nokian Hakkapeliitta R's. Not studded, but still they're like brand new, like only maybe a few hundred miles driven on them (so like 99% tread on them) and the rims are perfect.
here's a pic of all 4 tires:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/tires92.jpg)
and a better look at a single tire:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/tires90.jpg)
Now here's the Summer tires I also got at "Crazy Dean's Discount Parts Emporium"
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/SummerTires94.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/SummerTires93.jpg)
They just need to be put onto rims. I also got the rims from him as well.
-
I sure hope so!
I've got the NP129 off the tranny of my first donor car (it was down at Mechanic's here on the forums), and I'm hoping to have that rebuilt before summer is out.
Maybe after that, rear end done. Then tranny.
Once all those have been done, it's gonna be Stroker time. I'll probably do a budget or mid stroker. 4.5 L with some decent numbers on it. I don't care about huge HP, or mudding... I want good fuel mileage for long tours down the highway.
-
finally got the rims off of Dean (El Matador) and took them to Keith's to have them sandblasted.
they're not perfect, but they look alot better. I still need to clear coat them, and Hopefully I can get them mounted up soon.
Before:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/rims504.jpg)
After:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/rims506.jpg)
-
That wheel is lookin pretty good. How did the bead surface turn out?
-
I didn't sandblast that, or the back of the rim. I used a wire wheel on the bead. I wanted it smooth - I didn't care how good they look as long as the tire don't leak in around the bead.
Basically I only sandblasted the face of the rim.
-
Finally! I got the bipass done, and got the 2150 on.
There was a bit of sputtering at the first (just like ya'll said) but on a 35 minute drive up the highway, man, did it clear up fast. Dean and I went to PnP and we were there for about an hour.
She started great, and drove great. I don't think the gas gauge moved for the 40 minute drive home.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/carb514.jpg)
Here's a quick video of the carb, and the bypass:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f48K1HkeNQM
-
I am going to be doing this swap as well. How much bigger of an air cleaner would fit? I was thinking about this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1203/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1203/)
-
From Gronk's post:
ANY standard 4bbl (5 1/8" throat) air cleaner will fit this carb. Make sure it will clear the fuel bowl vent tube AND THE BRAKE BOOSTER!!
Personally, I would go with a shorter (from top to bottom), and bigger around air cleaner, then the one that it comes with. It hits the top of that 'blanket' that protects the underside of your engine bonnet. It will actually indent it.
-
What I was concerned about is clearance around the circumference. As in will it conflict with the master cylinder or valve cover? Also the cleaner I linked to looks alot better.
-
Just note the lack of space between the air cleaner and the brake booster. Remember, the engine will "move" too and the booster is mounted solid. I have tried just about every style and size I can cram under the hood and the SPECTRE air cleaners (that I included) work the best of all.
-
I'm still having 'knock/pinging' issues no matter where I time this car to. I've tried everything between 4-13 BTDC.
I've done a video on the plumbing, I'm hoping one of you will see it, and tell me what I/Pat/we did wrong.
The video is only 2 minutes long.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uR3OeAPVlk
-
What gasoline are you using?
-
What gasoline are you using?
Regular gas from a Shell gas station - Shell gas is supposed to be pretty decent. octane rating IIRC is 87.
-
Try an 89 but it might not be pinging. Exhaust leak will sound like a knock. The smaller the leak, the louder the knock. There isn't a washer sitting on top of one of your pistons is there. Been there done that. Check your plugs for damage too. Don't adjust timing around a knock. Adjust timing where it should be and find/fix the knock
-
Try an 89 but it might not be pinging. Exhaust leak will sound like a knock. The smaller the leak, the louder the knock. There isn't a washer sitting on top of one of your pistons is there. Been there done that. Check your plugs for damage too. Don't adjust timing around a knock. Adjust timing where it should be and find/fix the knock
besides changing gas, I wouldn't know where to start... I've been trying to read up on possible solutions.
-
I didn't sandblast that, or the back of the rim. I used a wire wheel on the bead. I wanted it smooth - I didn't care how good they look as long as the tire don't leak in around the bead.
Basically I only sandblasted the face of the rim.
what grit/product did you use on the sand blasting? Are you having them polished or powder coated? I have a set that needs work.
-
used glass to sandblast them (I think we used fine), Not having them polished or powder coated. Actually, I didn't know you could powder coat in clear.
I got some clear rim paint (clearcoat) and I did them myself.
They are on the car now.
-
did you post a pic of them finished?
-
did you post a pic of them finished?
Several times. Go back to page 13 (of this post) and check it out.
-
Try an 89 but it might not be pinging. Exhaust leak will sound like a knock. The smaller the leak, the louder the knock. There isn't a washer sitting on top of one of your pistons is there. Been there done that. Check your plugs for damage too. Don't adjust timing around a knock. Adjust timing where it should be and find/fix the knock
That's one of the problems, I don't know where the timing IS supposed to be. According to your info, My timing should be about 13 degrees BTDC.
My EGR has been crimped off, so I'd have to get a new one in order to put it back into service (which is supposed to be one fix for engine knock)
My Spark plugs are fine (I had them out recently to re-gap them) but they are those 4 electrode ones (with the cross in them).
The knock only occurs when I floor it (under heaviest load)
So I don't know what else to do.
-
did you post a pic of them finished?
Several times. Go back to page 13 (of this post) and check it out.
Those pics don't show them after the clearcoat.
-
crap, you're right, I forgot those were the 'uncoated' pics.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/DSC06911.jpg)
-
My EGR has been crimped off, so I'd have to get a new one in order to put it back into service (which is supposed to be one fix for engine knock)
The knock only occurs when I floor it (under heaviest load)
If it only happens when floored, then it shouldn't be EGR related. EGR would only activate when there is vacuum, which is almost nonexistent when floored. So while flooring, it would be closed anyways.
-
Ok, so what should I do? get different plugs? put some fuel additive to clean her out?
could be I'm getting too much warm air?
-
Could you have something simple like a clogged cat converter? I has a similar problem with one of my Jeeps about 15 years ago. Ran good until floord then it would shift and cause all sorts of engine issues.
-
Not to throw more fuel to the fire, and only my personal experience.I put those 4 prong plugs in my Caddy, ran like crap. I don't know why, or why not.The guy at the parts place told me some cars/engines just run better on simple plugs.........needless to say they wouldn't take them back !!I still have them in there boxes on a shelf.
-
I have heard from a few people that the 258s like the simple plugs.
-
X's 3 on the simple basic plugs.
-
XXX on the cheap-o-CHAMPION or Autolite plugs. That's all I'll ever use in an I-6
-
Could you have something simple like a clogged cat converter? I has a similar problem with one of my Jeeps about 15 years ago. Ran good until floord then it would shift and cause all sorts of engine issues.
I don't think My eagle has a cat converter.
I'll get some different plugs, and I'll re-set my timing and see how it goes.
should I gap my plugs at .045 or higher?
-
i have the $6 E3 dimond fire plugs in Eagle Eyes and she runs just fine on them.
-
Not to throw more fuel to the fire, and only my personal experience.I put those 4 prong plugs in my Caddy, ran like crap. I don't know why, or why not.The guy at the parts place told me some cars/engines just run better on simple plugs.........needless to say they wouldn't take them back !!I still have them in there boxes on a shelf.
I can second that.
Especially carb'd motors, always seem to run like crap on them.
-
Canadian Eagles don't have cats.
Unless you've hotrodded the system the plugs should be gapped at .035.
Did you run 12 volts to the coil bypassing the resister wire, and install the adapter and larger distributor cap along with a compatible coil? If so setting at .045 should be OK.
yeah, I did the HEI, the by-pass, 12 volt to the coil, new coil, 8mm wires, wider ford cap, and those plugs.
-
I did the conversion as well with new tfi. dist. champion plugs and the 8mm wires. I completely removed my egr valve and covered it with a plate. I had my timing set at 10 degrees. It starts and runs great no problems, but I have the pinging also around the 35 mph mark and when I hit the gas a little hard. I was also told to replace the egr valve, which I haven't done yet. whutmore let me know if it fixes your problem. I was thinking about going down to 9 degrees for the timing, thats what stock is? I am going for my echeck tomorrow morning, and I really hope it passes, if not I have to wait till Jan. and then the car will be 25 yrs. old and it won't need an echeck.... The pinging has me concerned about passing the test.
-
I am going for my echeck tomorrow morning, and I really hope it passes, if not I have to wait till Jan. and then the car will be 25 yrs. old and it won't need an echeck.... The pinging has me concerned about passing the test.
Just get a full load of premium fuel or some octane booster before going to the test.
-
@Rollguy, I'll do that and top it off with supreme.
@Brownbear, I'm gonna change out those stupid spark plugs first, get something normal, and I'll keep ya posted.
-
I did the conversion as well with new tfi. dist. champion plugs and the 8mm wires. I completely removed my egr valve and covered it with a plate. I had my timing set at 10 degrees. It starts and runs great no problems, but I have the pinging also around the 35 mph mark and when I hit the gas a little hard. I was also told to replace the egr valve, which I haven't done yet. whutmore let me know if it fixes your problem. I was thinking about going down to 9 degrees for the timing, thats what stock is? I am going for my echeck tomorrow morning, and I really hope it passes, if not I have to wait till Jan. and then the car will be 25 yrs. old and it won't need an echeck.... The pinging has me concerned about passing the test.
I hope they don't do a visual test, the EGR is part of the emissions system.
-
Most likely the pining is due to the lack of EGR, since one of its functions to keep the engine from knocking.
-
Most likely the pining is due to the lack of EGR, since one of its functions to keep the engine from knocking.
Even if the EGR was hooked up correctly, it still wouldn't function when the engine is floored. Since it only pings when the accelerator is floored, I don't think thats the problem.
Unless, does it only ping right when you floor it and then go away? Or does it ping the whole time it's floored?
-
no visual test and the pinging does go away for me. It will ping a little around 35 mph mark. I will take it on the freeway today and listen to see if it's always pinging......
-
eagle failed the emissions test, my NO was twice the legal limit. Does anyone know what that means and what I can do to repair that issue.?????????
-
brownbear: So you are saying if you are just cruising down the road, not accelerating, at 35 mph, it still pings? That could definitely be because of lack of an EGR valve.
Also, your lack of EGR valve is probably what made you fail the NOx test too, as its sole purpose is to lower NOx levels. The only other thing that really controls NOx levels is the catalytic converter.
-
just when I'm accelerating to 35 then it stops. I have a brand new cat on, I guess I can try the egr if everyone thinks it will help. If I put one on does that mean I have to readjust my timing and carb?
-
no one around me has an egr for sale, does anyone know of a place that will one sell cheap. I can only find them for around 65$ and they need to be ordered, but I need to know for sure or close to it that it's the egr that made the eagle fail?
-
I'm just gonna swap out the plugs, and see how that goes from there.
well today I went to see a guy (Clayton) about doing my drivetrain. His father owns the company I work for. He does extreme off-roading and he builds parts.
http://stores.evojoints.com/
As far as doing up the drivetrain, I've been back and forth with what I want - Most of the reasons are what's available to me, but some reasons are cost.
Clayton suggested I get a 4.0 setup (engine, tranny, and TC) and then he'd do the rest. Still could do a mid-stroker. get a 4-speed tranny, and then a 231 TC case (they can CNC all the other parts to mate up)
Then Clayton starts talking about different kinds of 'Locker' rear ends, and that's where I think he lost me. All I was looking for was a limited slip.
-
it's been awhile since I've updated this post, but recently I've put a brand new master cylinder on her, and brand new calipers in the front.
Brakes are still wayyy too touchy in the back. I have no idea why. If I'm really gentle, it's ok, if I press on the brake petal more firmly (I'm not talking about stomping on them for an E-stop) the back tires/brakes lock up but the front doesn't do much.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/mastercylinder.jpg)
-
Proportioning valve?
-
Proportioning valve?
That's exactly what my thoughts were.
-
So I keep getting told that the proportioning valve was in the master cylinder...
if it's a separate part, then ya, that would explain it.
-
You might also want to check your rear brakes. Drums can be quite touchy if they aren't clean and adjusted properly. The adjusted rust up real easy and stick especially when your e-brakes aren't used often.
-
You might also want to check your rear brakes. Drums can be quite touchy if they aren't clean and adjusted properly. The adjusted rust up real easy and stick especially when your e-brakes aren't used often.
everything is also new for the back brakes. the drums were machined, all the parts were painted with hi-heat paint, and any moving part has anti-seize to it. Even the wheel cylinders are new.
So rusting, seizing, or any of that ain't gonna happen. the e-brake cable gets used here and there, and we cleaned it, and packed it with real graphite. That ain't gonna seize either.
other then proportioning valve, the back brakes might not have been adjusted properly. I'm really not exactly sure how to properly adjust them.
-
stuck or bad rear wheel cylenders can cause that effect too.take the drums off so you can have a look on it
-
In that picture of the master it almost looks like the rear line is flattened out at the bend. I'm guessing you checked the whole back line for and bends or restrictions. If you bled them then they are not blockes off but could be restricted.
-
In that picture of the master it almost looks like the rear line is flattened out at the bend. I'm guessing you checked the whole back line for and bends or restrictions. If you bled them then they are not blockes off but could be restricted.
in that picture it does look like they're bent, but it's not. that's shadows making it look like that. I haven't checked the whole back lines, but I can tomorrow.
If the line in the back is restricted, wouldn't that cause them to not respond as well? Instead of responding too much?
@PeterM yup, that's what we did - Got it till it's just grabbing, and then back it off till it spins freely. So if that's how to properly adjust the back brakes, then it's been done.
I think it's the proportioning valve has either got crap in it (from the rubber rotting in everything else) or it's got problems. Anyone have a good picture of what the valve looks like?
I'm probably gonna replace it, and see if that's it. If that ain't it, then I'm gonna try the rubber hoses next.
-
stuck or bad rear wheel cylenders can cause that effect too.take the drums off so you can have a look on it
The rear wheel cylinders are new. So unless I got crappy ones, they shouldn't be the problem, but I can check them.
-
Ok, so with looking at the diagrams on Eaglepedia, there is a proportioning valve. It's on the other side, and I've located it on the car.
I'm gonna check tomorrow to see if I can still get one, and I'm gonna change it out. See if that don't fix it. If not that, then I'll probably swap the rubber hoses - Actually, I might get them just in case.
-
I wonder of you could swap the lines at the proportioning vavle?? Maybe they got switched around by a PO ?? or something ?Might be an easy test first.I think those proportioning valves are hard to come by, maybe...
unless the PO changed the lines and fittings, there's no way to accidently switch the lines - Just what rollguy said.
We've tried bleeding the entire system, and that didn't work.
I haven't gone in yet, been too busy with New Year's stuff, but probably this week.
-
I wonder of you could swap the lines at the proportioning vavle?? Maybe they got switched around by a PO ?? or something ?Might be an easy test first.I think those proportioning valves are hard to come by, maybe...
I don't think that would be possible, as the lines will only go on one way. I had a proportioning valve stick on my cadillac, and just bleeding the entire system and driving it turned out the light and fixed the problem.
-
I wonder of you could swap the lines at the proportioning vavle?? Maybe they got switched around by a PO ?? or something ?Might be an easy test first.I think those proportioning valves are hard to come by, maybe...
unless the PO changed the lines and fittings, there's no way to accidently switch the lines - Just what rollguy said.
We've tried bleeding the entire system, and that didn't work.
I haven't gone in yet, been too busy with New Year's stuff, but probably this week.
unless the PO changed the lines and fittings, there's no way to accidently switch the lines - Just what rollguy said.
We've tried bleeding the entire system, and that didn't work.
I haven't gone in yet, been too busy with New Year's stuff, but probably this week.
-
Just a thought. Is it possible the primary and secondary shoe positions are reversed? :amc:
-
Great thread. Fun to follow what others are doing. Keep up the good work. I egged you! :)
-
Just a thought. Is it possible the primary and secondary shoe positions are reversed? :amc:
you talking about the back brakes? They wouldn't fit the other way... So I'm assuming we got 'em on the right way... plus we followed the shoe placement when we took 'em off (Ok, I think we did - the guy that helped me did most of the work).
But... It's not impossible we screwed up, I'll have to double check.
Thanks, Prafeston I appreciate that.
-
as i remember there is a shorter and a larger brake shoe maybe they are in the wrong position
-
yes, but which one faces the front, and which one faces the back?
Is anyone Absolutely sure? It's hard to tell in some of the diagrams.
-
the shorter goes forward and the larger goes backward.
-
Looks like they might be backwards...
what do you all think?:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/drumoff.jpg)
-
Are we looking at the driver or passenger side?
-
looks like the driver side to me.
-
Isn't there some kind of flat bar thing with a spring fit over the end that fits in that notch in the shoes below and sits below the wheel cyclinder ?? that keeps the shoes spaced apart ?? I will have to go look at my brake rebuild pics.
-
yes there is, and Pat forgot it, until we got the whole thing back together, and then he discovered it... then we took it all apart, and then put that bar thing back in.
Actually, it's very hard to tell which is the driver's side, and which is the pass. side. you can't tell by the shocks, because their both opposite to each other, and if I look at the other side, it looks the same.
I'm thinking the only way to tell is which side the E-cable goes... correct? E-cable comes from the front of the backing plates... right?
-
it seems to be correct since the e brake mechanism goes backward.
-
ok, so the brake shoe placement is correct then.
So besides the rubber hoses, it has to be the Proportioning valve that's causing the braking issues. When we went to Kelowna, I got a newer one off a low miles eagle there, and as soon as I get a chance to get it on, I'll try that.
-
Being picky here. shouldn't make a bit of differance. but the front facing spring should go on first than the rear shoe spring. as i was taught.
-
Being picky here. shouldn't make a bit of differance. but the front facing spring should go on first than the rear shoe spring. as i was taught.
Good to know, and I'm sure we did something else wrong in there, but I'll try the P-valve next. Tomorrow I'm getting together with a bunch of AMC guys to clean up El Matador's Eagle for the World of Wheels coming up. I'll see what they think of 'our' brake job we did, and see if they can find anything else wrong.
I'll get some pictures and video.
-
I can't wait to see what end up being the cause of this problem.
-
I can't wait to see what end up being the cause of this problem.
AMEN to that Brotha! I've almost replaced everything related to brakes - Except for the lines, and rubber hoses - And of course the Proportioning valve.
I know I can't buy P-valves for an eagle anymore - Reman'ed or new - but I don't know if I can have this one brought to a brake specialist here in town, and have them rebuild it, that's possible.
Back in the 90's when I had my Ambassador, I brought in the Alternator when it was fried, and they were able to rebuild it. It's possible this could be fixed.
but I'll try swapping this other P-valve first, then I'll take the original in and see if it can be fixed.
-
Let me try that again - here is a pic of my passenger side done.Looks like the smaller shoe goes towards the front.
-
Great stuff in here!
-
Thanks guys,
during the weeks leading up to the World of Wheels (Show was Feb 17-19) I spent from about... Well from about late Jan, to helping the club that weekend, I've discovered that my gas tank is leaking.
It must have been very slow, but since I've been driving it a bit more, I must have put the spot over the edge, and it became a hole.
So... Now I have to get a gas tank. what a PITA!
Keep ya all posted...
-
I'm sure you already know this but there is a very reasonably priced gas tank on eBay right now.
-
I wasn't aware of that, and thanks for the info, but I really prefer to buy locally. I would prefer to support local business men.
I'm gonna get a new one, cover the thing in POR-15
-
Just a quick update:
I finally swapped out the Proportioning valve on my eagle. That was a messy, dirty, PITA job.
I also bought a new gas tank for her. I need to get that on soon.
I'll have some pics for ya all probably tomorrow.
-
Still no pictures, but I bled all my brakes out. I now have front and back brakes. 'bout time.
Next: the gas tank...
-
Hey guys. Will be back in Calgary in July for a visit (1 month). Hope to meet up and take a look at all your Eagles. Send me a PM if you have any meets coming up. Cheers. I.R.
-
I sent you a PM there Hemlokk.
I just painted one part of the new gas tank with POR-15, I gotta let it dry, then I'm gonna get the other side painted before it goes on the eagle.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/P1030612.jpg)
-
That looks awesome!!! I hear POR-15 is supposed to be some pretty good stuff, as long as it's prepped thoroughly.
-
The gas tank looks great!!!
-
thanks guys!
@ baskinator, I hear that as well - You gotta prep. the tank was oily outta the box (some kind of protectant) but I cleaned off all the oil, and then I brushed on the POR.
So now, I finally got some pictures of the brake valves:
Here's the old one I took outta the eagle. The plastic thing on the middle top is a two-prong connector. It didn't match my female connector, so I swapped them out.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/oldbrakevalve.jpg)
Here's the one I got at Pick n' Pull. It looks totally different, but everything fits (and I got it off a '81 4-door eagle) except for that connector. but all I did was, unscrew both, and swap them.
It's all hooked up and the brakes are bled. NOW, all my brakes work, and the back doesn't lock up anymore.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/newbrakevalve.jpg)
-
I can't believe you made that gas tank look like that by painting it with a brush. When I first saw it I was certain it had been sprayed - prettiest gas tank I've ever seen.
-
I was thinking the same thing priya...maybe it's just the angle and lighting, but you can't see a single brush stroke in that thing!
-
yeah, that POR-15 is self-leveling. It totally smoothes out after you brush it on. I was surprised also.
It's not just the angle of the camera - I took it on that angle because you could see my reflection, and me holding the camera. So I took another picture on that steep angle so I wouldn't show up in the tank reflection.
It's really that shiny. If it wasn't for all the dust getting on it by drying out on my deck, it would be perfect.
Freaky, huh?
I should shoot a video of the tank dry, and post it just so you all could see how really shiny it is... ;D
-
So more updates...
I had an issue with the hanger breaking off the back of the muffler.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/repairs622.jpg)
So I made a patch, and re-welded the hanger on it,
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/repairs620.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/repairs624.jpg)
Then, I put a whole bunch of tacks to hold it on. The welding is pretty spotty, as the car is basically on the ground, and I had to reach over the rear diff. Also, I tried to clean the rust on the muffler as much as I could, but it was a very awkward spot - So I used sandpaper.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/repairs625.jpg)
Anyways, it's ugly welding (I'm almost embarrassed to post the pic) but it holds really well. That should keep me going till I can afford to redo the exhaust. I'll just paint it for now.
-
I use some stuff called Muffler Mend that you can get at just about any auto parts store. It comes in an aluminum can that looks like a paint can about 1.5" high and 4" round. It has the consistancy of thick ketchup or loose peanut butter.
Where a glove and spread it over the repair spot and smooth it out. It'll set overnight to like a concrete. Great for patching small holes, hard to reach spots or wierd angles. It would really dress up your welds by hiding them and provide a little insurance for any pin holes that might be lurking.
Anyway, just tought I'd throw that out there.
-
that's great to know, thanks. I egg'd ya for that rohnk.
-
I bought new gas tank straps (since mine were pretty rotten) and found out that they don't come with the hanger bolts. They are not easy to find, I wanna tell you all.
So, it took me most of my day, but I've found them - The hanger bolts..
After much looking, I figured/found out that cherokee hanger bolts are the same, but in two lengths.
The 1993 cherokee has the slightly shorter bolts (The new one in the picture below), and the '93 grand cherokee have longer bolts. Probably very close to the proper length.
I didn't buy the Grand Cherokee bolts because no parts places has them in calgary. I would have had to drive to Red Deer (over 1.5 hours north) to get them. Forget that, I'll make use of these. But I will keep the old hangers and compare them someday.
The shorter cherokee hanger bolts are just barely long enough. I also got Stainless Steel nylock nuts. They are 3/8 standard thread.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/tankhangers.jpg)
I've also got new straps (easy to get) and I'm painting them with POR-15. Actually, I'm painting EVERYTHING with por-15.
Here's a pic of one painted, one not yet.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/straps.jpg)
-
So today I worked on the tank again, and started putting everything together.
As I was replacing hoses under the tank, I noticed that the Roll-over valve was rotten to the point where you could see into the valve. it was really rotten. it was leaking there.
I had to bypass this unit (just run straight hose) and I replaced all the other hoses. They are all new from the tank, to the carb.
I cleaned up the sending unit, made sure all the connections were good, and it's all back together. I drove it home, and it ran great. No more leaks.
here's a pic of the rotting roll over valve:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/rollovervalve.jpg)
-
Mine is pretty bad also. Not sure what other options there are, other than getting one from a parts car.
-
The ones for the Delorean's fit. You can buy them from DMC out of Texas for 9.99. The shipping is high though.
-
Thanks for the tip Rohn, I might have to order one of those... eventually (when I have money :P).
-
So I've been pulling the back inside trim to see if I can some 6x9 speakers hidden behind the panels.
I'm gonna have to mount them on a 45 degree tilt, and then make a frame to hide them (around here, I don't want to advertise I have good speakers in my car) behind some kind of frame with acoustic transparent material.
Yah, right... we'll see if I can get this together...
but other then that, I had to break down and get a new battery. I actually got a model 56. Man, they are a bit on the skinny side, huh?
The old battery was croaking even during warm days of summer.
-
Well, I got the 6x9 speakers in the spot I wanted... Now before you say why don't I just mount it to the outside, I don't want my eagle broken into, so I'm hiding the speakers behind the interior trim, and cover it with something that doesn't look like there's speakers behind it.
I got the only thing I could find to pad the panel - I got some underlay for carpet, and then I glued it in to pad the area.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speakers674.jpg)
then, I made a cardboard cutout (several tries...) and cut the MDF in the same shape (That too a few tries to hone it)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speakers670.jpg)
then I lined up the plastic boarder for the speaker and marked out where I wanted the hole:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speakers671.jpg)
Now, since I was mounting the speaker behind the MDF (to get it to sit behind the plastic trim) I cut it out, and mounted the speaker, and then slid it into the hole, just to make sure.
Then I made a copy of this template, marked the main hole, the screw holes and the like:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speakers672.jpg)
Now I have two exact copies, and I can mount the speakers to them,
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speakers673.jpg)
then I cut a length of speaker wire (crimped the ends on, clipped them to the speakers) and then I got the speakers, jiggled them into their spots, and screwed them down.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speakers677.jpg)
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speakers676.jpg)
Next, I have to cut out a section of the plastic interior trim, and put some kind of cover on it.
-
Great work man!
-
L00KS great !! Like the idea and location, out of the way, and should give you some good sound.
-
thanks, it's been a real struggle trying to get speakers that are too big into areas that are too small.
The front doors are taking even longer. ONe - Because of helping another member with his FC-170, Two - Finding the time, and Three - Figuring out what to do to get them in.
Anyways, I think I'm close to getting the door speakers in. I had to use thinner material called Hardboard, and make adaptors outta that.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speaker909.jpg)
I also had to make the door panel speaker hole bigger,
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speaker910.jpg)
Also, because of their placement (and I can't get them behind the door panel more) I'll have to make my own grille covers because the window winder is right there, so they gotta be really thin.
Not a very good place for door speakers...
So I used more of the hard board, cut a square 7"x7", and then cut a square hole 6.5" x 6.5" (so the boarder is only .5") and used a glue gun and got some black material that was sound transparent, and got it all on.
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/speaker911.jpg)
Next, I'm gonna attach it to the door panel when I get either little bolts and nuts, or... some decent looking way to attach them without it looking stupid, and be strong.
-
Man you've done a lot of work!
-
Thanks Mick,
I went today to get grilles on the back trim panels (and get the driver's side door speaker in the door) and stupid me forgot to bring my hardware, and my hardboard (for back grilles) and pretty much anything I needed to finish off the project.
So, I'm heading to Keith's tomorrow (and Make sure I pack all the stuff I need) and see if I can finish the job.
I'll take more photos.
-
whats the resistance for the resistor
(http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/graphics/Product_Graphics/Product_3955.jpg)
Mount to something metal because it will get hot!
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/store_product_detail.cfm?Product_ID=3955&Category_ID=2&Sub_Category_ID=29
Product info:
1947-55 Ignition Resistor 12V
Part Number: AD-475-IR
12 volt ballast resistor is used when your 12 volt coil does not have one built in.
-
finished with the front doors:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/grilles292.jpg)
And I also Finally got the back speaker grilles in. I cut a hole out
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/grilles295.jpg)
cut two pieces of hardboard that are exactly the same size and shape
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/grilles293.jpg)
lined everything up and drilled the holes to match
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/grilles298.jpg)
hot glue gun the cloth on
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/grilles294.jpg)
and then bolted them to the panel
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/grilles297.jpg)
That was a lot of work and I'm beat. I don't know how many hours/weekends I spent doing that, but now I have tunes thumping in the car. wicked.
Tomorrow, I take pics of the grilles in place. I still have to finish putting all the trim screws back, and some other pieces back on, and then finally clean up the car.
PHEW!!
-
I put new rotors and front pads on, and STILL I have issues with the front. At this point, everything is new except lines.
Keith and I now figure that the issue is the flex hoses. (Duhhhh! there's nothing left to replace!)
Everything else is new (less then a year old), well, except the power brake diaphragm.
-
I have a small update:
One of the nest members here in Calgary was fixing up an '82 limited, and he had bought lots of new parts, and some reconditioned for the car.
I guess he started that was 2-3 years ago, and after some major changes in his life, he's parting out the car: (nest post here: http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.ph ... #msg328859 )
I just bought his new rear leafs, front coils, upper and lower control arms cleaned up and painted with POR-15, with new bushings, new moog strut bushings, new upper and lower ball joints, rebuilt steering box, spring seat bushings, aluminum coil spacers, new shock perches, a whole bag of headlight adjusters, and two SS hose clamps that have the 'EAGLE' font engraved in them.
Tomorrow I'll get a pic of the parts and post it
-
I put new rotors and front pads on, and STILL I have issues with the front. At this point, everything is new except lines.
Keith and I now figure that the issue is the flex hoses. (Duhhhh! there's nothing left to replace!)
Everything else is new (less then a year old), well, except the power brake diaphragm.
Did you ever get this sorted out? Also how did the speakers look and sound after it was all back together?
-
speakers sound pretty good, but I'm just running the head unit, no amp yet.
I've got the flex hoses, and I will be putting them on in the next week or so. I will keep you posted on that. but it's the only thing that I haven't replaced, so It's gotta be the problem.
-
So today I worked on the tank again, and started putting everything together.
As I was replacing hoses under the tank, I noticed that the Roll-over valve was rotten to the point where you could see into the valve. it was really rotten. it was leaking there.
I had to bypass this unit (just run straight hose) and I replaced all the other hoses. They are all new from the tank, to the carb.
I cleaned up the sending unit, made sure all the connections were good, and it's all back together. I drove it home, and it ran great. No more leaks.
here's a pic of the rotting roll over valve:
(http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu84/whuntmore/Whuntmore%20Eagle/rollovervalve.jpg)
On the DMC Texas site they refer to their replacement roll over valve as "Dodge 4002 012 270836575548 Jeep Dodge truck carbon canister valve". Here is a link: http://store.delorean.com/p-6703-roll-over-valve.aspx (http://store.delorean.com/p-6703-roll-over-valve.aspx)
-
I am aware of that part, but thank you for posting it (because you never know)
I bought a bunch of stuff off of Tony - Tony lives here in Calgary, and was fixing up his own eagle, when LIFE struck. He's had a few setbacks, and had to sell off the new parts he's got, and scrap the eagle he's got in his garage.
I've bought off him:
a re-maned steering box,
new rear leafs, with new bushings,
New coil springs
spacers for the coils
new bushings for the coil seats,
4 new ball joints (upper and lower)
all control arms with all new bushings and has been cleaned up and painted with POR-15,
new shock seats, with new bushings,
two tail lights (in great shape)
a new center console (different color, but in better shape then mine)
5 outer door latches,
2-3 hatch hinges with rubbers,
a chilton manual,
new bushings for the front stablizer bars,
and some other stuff I can't remember right now.
Dean and I went to Sask., to raid Teamamc's yard full of AMC's and as usual, Dean took a whole van load of parts.
I got from that trip:
3 newer bumpers (one is for Pat, for his SX/4)
5 sets of door hinges (with no slop in them - All taken from passenger side doors)
some of those round rear quarter marker lights (on Spirits and SX/4's)
a rear sway bar complete,
another steering box (with no slop that I could tell)
sunroof glass, hinges, and rubbers (also for Pat)
a couple of fenders,
a section of rear quarter panel (to fix the rust holes on my rear quarter panel)
a whole bunch of those black short bumper ends (that are usually on Concords, and Spirits)
and some other goodies...
Hopefully, all that stuff will be going on the Eagle this Summer.
-
First, I'm surprised by this site...
Well, some stuff has happened since my last post
My job is going really well, as a matter of fact, I got an apprenticeship as a boilermaker. Lots of welding and fabbing of large pressure vessels.
The other big news is - My wife and I finally bought a house! We finally found one in a really nice area, on a quiet street, and here's the kicker - It's got 2 garages!!!!!
It has one single attached (for the subaru) and one double Detached garage. I think the roof in the garage is actually tall enough to put in a hoist, but I won't know until I measure it. regardless, It's a really nice place, and we take possession on the 23rd of this month. Like in 4 days of this post.
I won't have to worry about doing work on my eagle in the parking lot of our apt ( ), I can strip it down and do all the work that's needed on her, , and I won't have to ever worry about:
having to put it all back together for the night, just so I can lock it up,
Or complaints about 'You can't work on your car in the parking lot,
or having to run back in, because I didn't carry enough tools out to the car...
You know, all those things you home (and garage owners) take for granted, that Us apt dwellers can't do.
I can't freaking wait...
-
Well first and wecome to the grown up "Eagles Den"
Glad to here on the job and house.
One thing though to remember on the new house, with the house qwnership freedom comes "when things go knock in the night, you can't call the landlord anymore" that part is yours also now!! May I suggest one tiny thing, a insurance on the stuff in house like boiler, washer dryer, stove, any that can break, good insurance on everything can cost less then $50 bucks a month, well worth the price. I only suggest nothing else.
You do not have to use photobucket on our site, as you did with the nest, everything is done in SMF now!
Any questions ask, we will do our best to answer you, its our real first full day up, we have been online since begining of July but we, had to keep bringing it down for broken links :lurk:sujects postings, lot of things, I have the full back up since early 2006, there were some major deletes done since then and we will be repairing and adding them to the sight as time permits after our thursday big role out, keeping fingers crossed, if you want to see the fixing stuff use url http://www.eaglenestamc.com, that our test sight as stuff gets added, it does not carry all of the new stuff we use it to repair then move to this site and severs, everything is double backed up, including in my home on my server here.
Again welcome enjoy, new house, may the job keep going strong, and youu finally get your Eagle up running on the road, post pictures of house your Eagle, test the site!
Thanks
Ken! :blob1: :occasion14:
-
You and I have chatted many times before.
Thanks for the info, and yes, I am preparing to be the 'repairman' :rotfl: I've actually taken a few courses on laying floors, general repairs, etc.
And...
I worked in maintenance at a university for 3 years
I've worked with some of my buddies in the trades:
Drywall board (helped do a few floors of a condo)
floor repairs (minor to medium repairs, leveling, re-enforcing, etc)
touched on wiring (but I have a buddy who does that)
landscaping (I used to work for a landscaping company)
and some other random stuff.
and yes, thanks for the tip on the insurance. I will do that.
I am gonna shoot some video of the house, put it up on my You Tube channel, and then post a link.
THEN, I'm gonna get to work on that eagle!
One thing I didn't post here is:
One older member (from the nest site) was rebuilding an eagle, then life happened, and he had to give up on the whole project. Here's my copied post (so I don't have to re-type it - he he he):
One of the eagle's nest members here in Calgary was fixing up an '82 limited, and he had bought lots of new parts, and some reconditioned for the car.
I guess he started that was 2-3 years ago, and after some major changes in his life, he's parting out the car:
I just bought his new rear leafs, front coils, upper and lower control arms cleaned up and painted with POR-15, with new bushings, new moog strut bushings, new upper and lower ball joints, rebuilt steering box, spring seat bushings, aluminum coil spacers, new shock perches, a whole bag of headlight adjusters, and two SS hose clamps that have the 'EAGLE' font engraved in them.
Tomorrow I'll get a pic of the parts and post it
He still has a lot of interior parts, and other stuff.
==========================================================
I bought some more stuff off of Tony -
I've bought off him:
a rebuilt steering box,
two tail lights (in great shape)
a new center console (different color, but in better shape then mine)
5 outer door latches,
2-3 hatch hinges with rubbers,
a chilton manual,
strut bushings
and some other stuff I can't remember right now.
Dean and I went to Sask., over the long weekend to raid Teamamc's yard full of AMC's and as usual, Dean took a whole van load of parts.
I got from that trip:
3 newer bumpers (one is for Pat, for his SX/4)
5 sets of door hinges (with no slop in them - All taken from passenger side doors)
some of those round rear quarter marker lights (on Spirits and SX/4's)
a rear sway bar complete,
another steering box (with no slop that I could tell)
sunroof glass, hinges, and rubbers (also for Pat)
a couple of fenders,
a section of rear quarter panel (to fix the rust holes on my rear quarter panel)
a whole bunch of those black short bumper ends (that are usually on Concords, and Spirits)
and some other goodies...
Hopefully, all that stuff will be going on the Eagle this Summer.
-
Well, I got some time to work on the eagle.
I finally found a place that carries that pertronix coil (the 40511) and then tried to get it into the bracket. one of those annoying bolts was a torx, but it was stripped, so I had to go to PnP and get the coil bracket that was on an eagle still sitting at the yard.
had to grind off the old stipped one, and finally got it out. put in the new one, and it's finally good.
I also tried to re-set the timing, but it only seems to want to run smooth at around 14 degrees BTDC. anything less, and it sounds a bit rough. Calgary is at about 4200 ft above sea level, but I didn't think I had to set it that high.
Also tightened some loose bolts around the manifold, and there was 2-3 around the oil pan. She's still dripping a bit of oil, but I got it calmed down to almost nothing. I still swear it's coming from the filter. it's snug, but I still think I might have the wrong size.
I did check for any extra gaskets sticking.
This Friday, I broke down and bought myself a Miller-Matic 180 mig welder. I'll really need that when I start doing the body work.
Otherwise the house is getting settled, and items are getting easier to find
-
pretty much good news. I wonder why the timing is so far off?? Chain stretch?
-
I never thought of that... could be... the motor only has like over 230,000 kms (142,000 miles) so I'm not sure.
I was told by Gronk that because of the 2150 carb, the ECM Test bypass, polution gear stripped off, and our elevation, it could be over 11 degrees.
-
The mods could be the culprit. My chain stretch was detected at close to 90 - 95,000 miles.
-
yeah, I was warned about that. but it does run better and it uses way less gas. So I'm good with it, until I can get a 4.0 for her.
-
yeah, I was warned about that. but it does run better and it uses way less gas. So I'm good with it, until I can get a 4.0 for her.
I need to get with SpreadEagle to see if he still wants my XJ that I am selling for beer. If not, would you be interested?
-
You are wayyyy too far for that. Even if I had a trailer and a truck (or whatever) to transport it (parts whatever) that would take me days to get there.
Thanks anyways, I'll just find something locally.
-
I checked with SE, and he still wants it. Just trying to arrange transportation for it.
-
Glad it's going to someone who wants it.
I also found something locally. a member of our AMC chapter here in Alberta, has a '92 XJ sport. complete motor and drivetrain. I'm gonna get that one outta him (if I can ever find his number) and bring it home and strip it.
Otherwise, not much going on with the eagle. I tried out the new welder, and I had to set it wayyy lower then what it specified for. But it works great.
-
Well, a buddy from the AMC club came over, and found out what was wrong with the brakes - I guess once you do any kind of bleeding, the proportioning valve tends to 'lock'. All I had to do, is take it for a little spin, and then slam on the brakes to re-set it.
Weird.
-
That is good to hear.
-
Well dammit, that vaive is STILL acting up. I'm just gonna have to order a new one - If I can get one.
Went poking around to deal with the various rust spots - In attempt to fix them, and possibly make the car look better, and I found some rot in the rocker. Big surprise there, as I knew there was some light rot.
Since Photobucket is not accepting my uploads, I made a short video of the rot. Less then one minute:
http://youtu.be/IwFkyuxkjHg
-
Let us know the part number of the valve if you get an after market one.
-
One of my buddies here said the mid-80's Cherokee (say an '86 XJ) might fit, but he's not 100% sure on that. He says you can still buy the valves at Auto Value, but I have my doubts. I will check, maybe even today.
-
I never thought of that... could be... the motor only has like over 230,000 kms (142,000 miles) so I'm not sure.
I was told by Gronk that because of the 2150 carb, the ECM Test bypass, polution gear stripped off, and our elevation, it could be over 11 degrees.
I'm running mine at 16 degrees btdc; we're at 5300 ft elevation. I know the timing chain is stretched, if only by way of 170k miles on the engine. Any slower timing and it won't run and will overheat. :eagle:
-
Hey! Not to shabby
-
hey look shanebo found us. and whuntmore I could have sworn someone on the nest had used a gm valve but I can't remember who.
-
Welcome shanebo! :hello2:
-
hey look shanebo found us. and whuntmore I could have sworn someone on the nest had used a gm valve but I can't remember who.
If you ever find out, PUL-EASE let me know.
-
Well, I took the driver's front fender off, and was working on the dog-legs, and I noticed some rust around the front plug to the rocker panel. Sooooo, I go finding a bit more rot. Not as bad as the rear section, but I've cut into it, and the support was almost rotted all the way thru the middle.
I've got a better front fender, and once I get those rot spots dealt with, I'll get the new one on.
-
I took the driver's side front suspension somewhat apart (have more to remove) and I'm putting in the newer stuff with all new bushings that I got from Tony into my eagle.
http://youtu.be/ucKxuvdWpRY
-
I've got more being done to the eagle. I got the Strut rod brace done - It just needs to be painted up and put back on, I have the rod all cleaned up, and I will have to do some re-enforcing on the frame and around the upper control arm.
Since I can't post pics to Photobucket anymore (stupid site) I'm just doing short videos of my progress:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwFkyuxkjHg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JCDiLY6z3s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSZlPQ9Q5tA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zW_soQzVq7Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxSF4cYHgHQ
-
You got some work cut out for you! :)
-
whuntmore I don't use photobucket either. here is the site I use for photos http://www.servimg.com/ it works pretty well and I've used it for several years without any problems.
-
What issues are you having with Photobucket? I've been using it for years. They just recently gave everyone more space. I was constantly having to delete photos cause I had maxed out my account. But not long ago they gave us more space. I've had no issues since. I have the app on my phone too and just load my pics straight in.
-
I think someone mentioned (can't remember who...) something about a possible virus. when I try to upload any pic (regardless of type - jpeg, tiff, png, etc) it keeps saying, unrecognizable format.
Thanks maddog, I'll check that out.
So I pretty much gave up on it, and now I'm just posting videos. Just as easy for me.
-
Have you tried updating your browser?
-
Thanks maddog, I'll check that out.
no problem man.
-
@Rafe Browser is updated… I'm giving up on photobucket. Getting tired of that crap.
on another note,
So I got a new starter solenoid, was charging the battery, I got impatient, and put the charger on start.
The car started, and I ran it for about 20 seconds, and it died (from not running for several weeks), started it again, same thing, and then again.
Now it won't start. No click, nothing. battery fine. I figured I may have overloaded the system (??) with having the battery charger on, while the car was running.
Is that possible? what could I have burnt out? Any ideas?
-
Have you tested the battery with a multi meter? If the battery checks out ok, I would start by checking if you have voltage at the solenoid, and if you are getting voltage at the other cable while attempting to crank it over.
-
I don't think the battery is an issue when I'm using another source of power to run the system, anyways, the battery isn't the issue. I already checked.
I will try testing that solenoid… pisses me off that I have to… I just bought a new one - that thing is like 5 minutes old...
-
Some of those new solenoids are just plain garbage.
-
That's typical of an AMC Eagle. It has happened countless times to me. If you were cranking it for awhile before it stopped working I suspect flash corrosion. With high amperage through a small contact area you can have instantaneous corrosion. Usually you just have to clean off the two battery posts and be okay. Sometimes it happens on the solenoid posts too, and you just need to take all the rings off the posts, give them a quick brush, and then put them back on to resolve the issue.
If you're starting a car that has sat for a long time it's a good idea to pour a small amount of gas into the carb. It gives a kick to the engine and helps the fuel pump refill what has evaporated from the carb. Using the starter alone to pump the level back up isn't good for it and often causes this.
-
I grounded the NSS on the solenoid, like you suggested, and it fired up right away. I'll see if I can get a good one from Dean (El Matador) He has several steering columns kicking around.
Now that I have that, I can get back to the repairs.
I also found out I have both sets of strut rod bushings. One set is bigger, softer, and the other are a bit smaller, much harder, and have a steel collar inserted inside the actual rubber. the secondary steel inserts are also different.
-
The Eagle has been on hold for a few weeks (months??), because of house reno's, but I finally got back to to her.
short video of my progress.
http://youtu.be/cFn0t_GTgFw
-
Did you know photobucket has a Email posting setup?
-
Some of those new solenoids are just plain garbage.
HI I got some from china that were no good . my son went threw a hole case of 24 and only had 2 good ones they shipped them back ....I make shore they are not from china ............don
-
It's been awhile since I've updated this:
After a kitchen reno, two room downstairs, the attached garage, and some changes to the yard (plus all the minor repairs, I don't even remember where I left off...
Inner and outer rockers on both sides have been done. Just finishing up the driver's side. need to cap the front of it.
All suspension has been replaced. All springs, steering (not the box yet) components, and bushings are all new.
Wheel wells were cleaned, rust/holes repaired, and repainted, and undercoated.
Driver's door had some issues with rot, so that's getting replaced. Got one from a salvage. seems pretty solid.
I also took all the interior apart in the back - including the back seats, and dealt with any rust hiding.
Got two concord bumpers from Dean, and those are going on. Concord or early eagle.
That's all I can think of.