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Transmission Shop / Re: Groan, vibration, and power loss
« Last post by amarshall on Today at 12:32:22 AM »
Thanks for posting the updates.  Too many of these threads trail off into nothing.  Glad you've figured out which system is causing you problems, at least.
Transmission Shop / Re: Groan, vibration, and power loss
« Last post by knobbler on Yesterday at 11:33:28 PM »
Very, very fortunately, they're still modestly priced, too!

The interior of the lines is my #1 suspect right now because of exactly what you'd said.  This wagon is on its 3rd MC since I've owned it- first had a worn piston, second was a really crappy "rebuild" job from a parts store chain, and the current one is a new unit that has been doing what it should, far as I can tell.

Between the corrosion and the 1st MC having a dissolving piston, I'm wondering how much contaminant could still remain in the system (despite the repeated bleedings).  I don't think it's too long a shot for some rust particles to have huddled up together somewhere (like in the prop valve), only to get stirred up when heat, vibration, and fluid flow wakes them up.  I may be wrong, but the fact that my fluid starts going dark really quickly (couple weeks or so?) after a full bleed seems to support that idea.

I think what I may do when time allows is a total flush of the brake system with my buddy's vac pump.  Just keep pulling fluid through until it's clear, drive it around, then do it again.  For now, I'm stopping and going when I need to, so I'm going to just keep an eye out to see what the wagon tells me.
I resolved the problem by creating an 'auto-adjustable' spacer composed of 3 of these these super-tough O-rings: stacked on the CV axle shaft flange.  I tightened the axle down, then took it back out to look at, and the 3 rings had deformed into a single triangular ring that had filled the available space between axle flange and wheel bearing.

I know it sounds like a goofy idea, but none of the affected parts move against each other, so I think it may hold up OK.  I'll update this thread if it doesn't work out.

Transmission Shop / Re: Groan, vibration, and power loss
« Last post by rmick on Yesterday at 10:43:11 PM »
I have had the lines degrade on the inside but outside looks good. When it goes bad internally it may allow fluid to flow to the brake but not allow fluid to return acting as a check valve. I have also had brake caliper pistons stick and not release when pedal is released. Fortunately these pats are still available.
Transmission Shop / Re: Groan, vibration, and power loss
« Last post by knobbler on Yesterday at 09:32:16 PM »
I wanted to post an update on this in case anyone else finds that they're having a similar issue.  In the time that's passed, the situation continued to worsen to the point where Eagle didn't feel safe to drive.  As the condition worsened, I was able to get some more info.

The sounds and feelings were becoming more extreme, so they were easier to pinpoint as coming from the front.  I also started getting a really hard shudder when coming to a stop, which made me look at the brakes again.  When I had checked the brakes before, I saw no indication of anything sticking, warping, or wearing unevenly, but this time I got the IR thermometer out after a particularly rough drive and saw the front wheels were well over 100° on a day of 70° outside temps (at best).

Long short, the calipers have been grabbing, but since the issue had not gotten bad enough, I wasn't catching them in the act.  Corrosion of the pins definitely played a part, but I'm still trying to get everything smoothed out.  Not sure if the calipers have bad seals, if there's particulate getting stuck in the lines, or if it's something more exciting, but I can say that this ordeal has been caused by degradation of the brake system with some other problems muddying the waters.

Thanks again for the help, all!
Member Products / Re: New side window louvers.. spirit sx/4
« Last post by AMC1 on Yesterday at 11:20:29 AM »
I PM you but you didn't reply. Are you still posting & are you still making the louvers?
Emissions/Vacuum Systems / Re: PCV confusion
« Last post by AMC of Houston on May 15, 2018, 12:32:51 AM »
Yeah.  That recall bulletin removed the electric shut-off valve (which closed off the PCV air flow at idle) from the PCV line, and replaced it with a new PCV hose that had an orifice inside it (basically reducing the PCV flow at all times over what it would be with a full-diameter hose).   I still have a couple of those recall kits in my parts stash.
Emissions/Vacuum Systems / Re: PCV confusion
« Last post by mudkicker715 on May 14, 2018, 08:07:09 PM »
Refresh my memory please. Wasn't there a amc bulletin to take a valve type thing on the pcv hose out of play. I assume this happened to pfay2, but you never know, since it wasn't mentioned. Just a thought.

Emissions/Vacuum Systems / Re: PCV confusion
« Last post by AMC of Houston on May 14, 2018, 04:27:12 PM »
Originally, there was a hose that went from there to the air cleaner housing, and the little filter was inside the housing.

Most aftermarket air cleaners have an adapter and punch-out hole for that hose.

The PCV hose went to the bottom of the carb.
Emissions/Vacuum Systems / PCV confusion
« Last post by pfay82 on May 14, 2018, 10:12:22 AM »
Hi everyone,

I have a question about my PCV system. The back hole in the valve cover has a little elbow with a filter attached. That's all back there. The front has the PCV valve, but there's no hose on it. I have a Motorcraft carb. Where would the hose hook up to if I had one?
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