Author Topic: Post your efi/4.0 swap conversion questions here (Read 22547 times)

tougeagle · « **on:** March 25, 2011, 08:02:03 PM »

If you have any questions about 4.0 head swaps, efi or anything of that nature, post them here for others to see as well, perhaps some of them have the same question

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #1 on:** March 25, 2011, 08:15:06 PM »

Do you know where to find a full PCM to component schematic?? I have a hanes manual that is weak at best and the 93-95 jeep Factoory service manual I have bust things up (as I'm sure you know).

tougeagle · « **Reply #2 on:** March 25, 2011, 08:18:20 PM »

Quote from: ericarmstrong on March 25, 2011, 08:15:06 PM

Do you know where to find a full PCM to component schematic?? I have a hanes manual that is weak at best and the 93-95 jeep Factoory service manual I have bust things up (as I'm sure you know).

the FSM is the best way to go, that's what I used to wire everything in. Are you talking about a pinout diagram, that shows where the 60 different pins lead to in the harness? Also, some of the colors may be off, but not by much, however it will work as long as you make sure whatever wire in question is in the same location as shown.

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2011, 08:27:28 PM »

I'm sure I'll be fine with this FSM.. I just work better with a full schematic, much like the old ones AMC and GM used to do. It seems to save a ton of random page flipping. BTW, I like this "Post your efi/4.0 swap conversion questions here" idea, a lot of the same info is floating between many different threads. Can this be stickied under "altered eagles" ,"engine", or somewhere. I'm afraid this will go dormant, get pushed down the page, and defeat the purpose.

tougeagle · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2011, 11:13:20 PM »

Quote from: ericarmstrong on March 25, 2011, 08:27:28 PM

I'm sure I'll be fine with this FSM.. I just work better with a full schematic, much like the old ones AMC and GM used to do. It seems to save a ton of random page flipping. BTW, I like this "Post your efi/4.0 swap conversion questions here" idea, a lot of the same info is floating between many different threads. Can this be stickied under "altered eagles" ,"engine", or somewhere. I'm afraid this will go dormant, get pushed down the page, and defeat the purpose.

I know what you mean, full schematics tend to be a bit easier. If you have the entire FSM, I can probably just send you a copy of mine on the computer, might make things easier. I don't usually give it out because technically it's not mine, but you already have one, so it's all good if you need to use it. I'll definitely see if I can get it stickied... thinking either here or altered eagles.. .I need to see if IE can sticky my conversion writeup to altered eagles and the 'pedia too.

shanebo · « **Reply #5 on:** March 31, 2011, 01:17:49 AM »

what year grand cherokee did you get that manifold off of

tougeagle · « **Reply #6 on:** March 31, 2011, 03:10:51 AM »

I don't remember what year but it will work for any 4.0 head 91 and up. Casting 7120 is the head it came from, I remember that much.That run went from 91-95. 96 was the same but without the port for the sending unit for temp gauge.

eagle503 · « **Reply #7 on:** March 31, 2011, 12:02:25 PM »

How much $ did this take? I want to go cheap. the mc2100 is only $250 how much is a used efi setup? I just want to get rid of the carter bbd - sometimes it starts rite up and sometimes it just wont.
Thanks!

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #8 on:** March 31, 2011, 05:33:30 PM »

Tougeagle's writeup gives the best breakdown regarding parts and $ I've seen yet. http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=32540.30

tougeagle · « **Reply #9 on:** March 31, 2011, 08:57:47 PM »

I'll add... those prices are what I paid and/or what you can expect to pay. You may find them much, much cheaper (craigslist and jeep forums are your friend) or everything on that list may be twice as much.... JUST the EFI itself, without head and cam, and including the transmission, was around....600 iirc.....which isn't that much compared to what you get out of it. The efi stuff will bolt up to the 4.2 head,but you'll have to ditch the entire pulse air system and crimp the tubes, and you will have to update all fuel line to EFI pressure rated hose.. not to mention the wiring n stuff. It's not that biga deal though

shanebo · « **Reply #10 on:** March 31, 2011, 11:09:33 PM »

Ive been meaning to ask ya.. where did you mount the new fuel pump?

Thanks
shane

tougeagle · « **Reply #11 on:** April 01, 2011, 01:45:23 AM »

Quote from: shanebo on March 31, 2011, 11:09:33 PM

Ive been meaning to ask ya.. where did you mount the new fuel pump?

Thanks
shane

Exact same location as the old one, on the spare tire well bulge (on the outside) several inches above the gas tank.

Also, you may read or have been told that you need a smaller pump to help push gas to it.... that's not true if you do your research and buy a good pump. That pump had no problem pulling gas through dry lines and pressurizing the fuel rail after I installed it. It took three clicks to "run" position and I had proper fuel pressure.

shanebo · « **Reply #12 on:** April 06, 2011, 01:25:23 AM »

OK Man, this is going to make me sound real supid

...but here it goes...I really have very little understanding of the fuel system....So there is a pump in the back by the tank...is there going to be a secondary pump up front where the old cam-driven pump was or is that deleted with a more powerful rear pump.

tougeagle · « **Reply #13 on:** April 06, 2011, 03:19:22 AM »

Quote from: shanebo on April 06, 2011, 01:25:23 AM

OK Man, this is going to make me sound real supid ...but here it goes...I really have very little understanding of the fuel system....So there is a pump in the back by the tank...is there going to be a secondary pump up front where the old cam-driven pump was or is that deleted with a more powerful rear pump.

The fuel pump hole will be deleted and gasketed with a small block chebby block off plate, and your 4.0 ignition coil, which just happens to bolt right up. EFI requires much higher fuel pressure and flow, your pump will need to push 70 or so psi at least, and 40 gph. I like having room to improve in the future, so I have an 87 gph pump... You would be using a return fuel rail, and hooking the return hose from it to the steel return line that used to be hooked to the fuel filter in line to your carb. You will not need any kind of other pump to assist as long as you go with a decent pump. A good pump will have no problem priming a completely dry fuel system with three KOEO (key on engine off) cycles. Mine was 220 from summit, I ditched the noisy bosch. The one from summit is also a Walbro. It's in the Edelbrock performer efi kits.

Your fuel hose will have to be efi rated, no ifs ands or buts. Regular fuel hose is J30R7, EFI is J30R9.

shanebo · « **Reply #14 on:** April 06, 2011, 11:26:19 AM »

Thanks man!!! Thats just what I needed to know

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #15 on:** April 06, 2011, 11:35:23 AM »

I was considering running a low psi 50gph carb pump back at the tank and the high pressure pump just before, if not under, the engine bay. I figure this way I'll only need the small length of EFI line I have hooked to my TBI setup(saving $$$). I was going to use the factory AMC fuel sending line as my return. If what I've read is correct the return line is fairly low pressure.

shanebo · « **Reply #16 on:** April 06, 2011, 11:25:53 PM »

is that EFI fuel line expensive?

tougeagle · « **Reply #17 on:** April 08, 2011, 01:16:41 AM »

Quote from: ericarmstrong on April 06, 2011, 11:35:23 AM

I was considering running a low psi 50gph carb pump back at the tank and the high pressure pump just before, if not under, the engine bay. I figure this way I'll only need the small length of EFI line I have hooked to my TBI setup(saving $$$). I was going to use the factory AMC fuel sending line as my return. If what I've read is correct the return line is fairly low pressure.

The return line is low pressure. EFI hose isn't that expensive, and you'd be spending more money and possibly stealing pump amperage by using an additional pump. Back at the tank, you only need about 3 - 4 feet to make it all work. It's 4-6 dollars a foot.

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #18 on:** April 08, 2011, 08:27:31 AM »

If I run new lines it will be stainless steel efi line. I think metal required for inspection here, and wont settle for less than stainless if im going to bend custom lines. Last time i looked steel efi line was costly. I'll probably end up doing that this the end, but figured i could use this pump i have on my bench to save a buck or two. I hope the grand cherokee alternator has enough juice to push a carb pump as i have lots of electronic "toys" hooked up already. If my budget forces me to i could always transplant some of the GC's metal line. What i overlooked with my origonal idea was that i will haved to add a line to handle the higher gph feed. I still like the carb pump idea as a "primer" for the efi pump. This carb pump sucks and the efi pump i have is a pusher.

tougeagle · « **Reply #19 on:** April 09, 2011, 03:34:52 PM »

Quote from: ericarmstrong on April 08, 2011, 08:27:31 AM

If I run new lines it will be stainless steel efi line. I think metal required for inspection here, and wont settle for less than stainless if im going to bend custom lines. Last time i looked steel efi line was costly. I'll probably end up doing that this the end, but figured i could use this pump i have on my bench to save a buck or two. I hope the grand cherokee alternator has enough juice to push a carb pump as i have lots of electronic "toys" hooked up already. If my budget forces me to i could always transplant some of the GC's metal line. What i overlooked with my origonal idea was that i will haved to add a line to handle the higher gph feed. I still like the carb pump idea as a "primer" for the efi pump. This carb pump sucks and the efi pump i have is a pusher.

make sure you use flexible line between engine and body. You can fuel line right off a 96 and up Cherokee, and just bend the steel sections how you need it, the rest is braided and would snap right onto the fuel rail. the problem is not the alternator getting juice to the pump, it's the fuel pump relay and fuse itself, both limited to 20 amps, which cannot be changed. You don't want to take amperage away from your EFI pump. EFI pumps are good enough that they do not need a pusher pump. Your engine will not make nearly enough horsepower for a pusher pump to be of any use... most efi cars these days do not have pusher pumps unless they have dual tank setups or something. You will be fine with the stock 5/16" feed... your engine won't make nearly enough power for you to need more than that. If you were in the 4-500 hp range, that would be a different story. I have an 87 gph fuel pump, and it's totally overkill, but I got it because i plan to eventually turbocharge my car and will need some extra flow. What is listed in the writeup is what you need, any modifications to the fuel line or system beyond that are honestly just wasted cash, it won't makea difference.

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #20 on:** April 09, 2011, 03:50:20 PM »

If I ran the carb pump it would be wired to a separate dash switch, fuse, and relay (like my TBI pump is now). It adds a sort of kill switch option. The pump I was going to use was based on a inline ford setup and originally came with a primer pump in the tank. I only chose it to save $$$ and may change my mind. Why do you specify 96 and up cherokee line as opposed to the 94 grand line I'm working with?

tougeagle · « **Reply #21 on:** April 09, 2011, 08:10:54 PM »

Quote from: ericarmstrong on April 09, 2011, 03:50:20 PM

If I ran the carb pump it would be wired to a separate dash switch, fuse, and relay (like my TBI pump is now). It adds a sort of kill switch option. The pump I was going to use was based on a inline ford setup and originally came with a primer pump in the tank. I only chose it to save $$$ and may change my mind. Why do you specify 96 and up cherokee line as opposed to the 94 grand line I'm working with?

If that 94 grand line is braided, you can use that too. I specified 96 and up xj because i know xj line is braided at that time.

shanebo · « **Reply #22 on:** April 10, 2011, 12:00:40 AM »

Hi Toug,

What would you recomend for a good all around fuel pump...and also what injectors are you running in caroline.

Thanx
shane

shanebo · « **Reply #23 on:** April 10, 2011, 12:30:39 AM »

I was also meaning to ask you too...Are there any junk yards near you that might have the desired xj computer?

I could drive up there to get it...And I was wondering...If I throw you some cash for gas and time ya think you could acompany me in pulling the computer out? I just know Ill screw something up or leave something behind if I dont have a knowledgable watchful eye....I know your super busy...and Im in no rush..I just want to get this right the first time

Thanx
shane

tougeagle · « **Reply #24 on:** April 12, 2011, 01:34:03 AM »

Quote from: shanebo on April 10, 2011, 12:30:39 AM

I was also meaning to ask you too...Are there any junk yards near you that might have the desired xj computer?

I could drive up there to get it...And I was wondering...If I throw you some cash for gas and time ya think you could acompany me in pulling the computer out? I just know Ill screw something up or leave something behind if I dont have a knowledgable watchful eye....I know your super busy...and Im in no rush..I just want to get this right the first time

Thanx
shane

the fuel pump i use is a "replacement pump" for Edelbrock performer EFI kits, 87 gph, 220 shipped from summit, and I was surprised to find it's a Walbro. You'd be fine with a Bosch pump mentioned earlier, what I have is overkill for my current application but I have plans to eventually turbocharge mine once I'm out of school and I had to get another pump anyway. You need a pump that pushes 70-90 psi, at least 50 gph to be on the safe side. The less the pump has to work to keep pressure at the rail, the better.

I use 24lb/hr Ford Racing fuel injectors, Bosch design III (full plastic) injectors that use the older style (more common) injector clip, same kind of clip you'd find on any cherokee 91-20??. Mine may be just a bit undersized, but I am running a 2.5" exhaust with a cherrybomb and no muffler, and .030 pistons. I have to run them at 50 psi. Unless your engine is overbore, you should be fine with 24-26lb/hr.

it's very rare to come across a 94 or 95 cherokee with a manual and engine wiring harness/computer in a yard around here. Most of them within hours of hitting the yard get engines and drivetrains yanked, my assumption is probably from CJ crowd or something. You'd have an easier time going to www.car-part.com. Just make sure to specify automatic or manual when looking because there is a difference in wiring, though slight. Though, if you do find a yard on car-part or through phone calls in the denver/north front range area, lemme know and I will find a day to come and help you. I can generally ask for mondays off from the shop if my boss doesn't have anything planned in advance. I would love to help you do it, but you def will need to locate one first...

shanebo · « **Reply #25 on:** April 12, 2011, 11:24:45 AM »

Thanx Toug!! Ill start looking for a jeep here in a few weeks....I got alot of stuff to get before I am at the computer point. Ill let ya know way in advance.

shanebo · « **Reply #26 on:** April 12, 2011, 11:30:48 AM »

Before I start looking I got one more question

Since I have the stock automatic do I need to get a computer wired for the automatic?

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 12, 2011, 01:14:32 PM »

No sich thing for an eagle.

IowaEagle · « **Reply #28 on:** April 12, 2011, 08:19:59 PM »

Our transmissions are totally mechanical. I guess the throttle rod is the only part that is not actually part of the transmission but a very necessary component.

shanebo · « **Reply #29 on:** April 13, 2011, 12:25:17 AM »

Thats a load of my mind!!! Thanks!!!

Should I try to find a jeep with a standard tranny for my computer to avoid the excess wiring the automatic will have?....Sorry Im so full of questions...Im venturing into uncharted territory

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #30 on:** April 13, 2011, 12:43:03 AM »

Have you gotten a chance to check out the eaglepedia write ups?

tougeagle · « **Reply #31 on:** April 13, 2011, 12:57:03 AM »

Quote from: shanebo on April 13, 2011, 12:25:17 AM

Thats a load of my mind!!! Thanks!!!

Should I try to find a jeep with a standard tranny for my computer to avoid the excess wiring the automatic will have?....Sorry Im so full of questions...Im venturing into uncharted territory

There really isn't much extra wiring for an auto harness, i think it's just a neutral safety switch and that's it, two wires. The computer module for the tranny, along with wiring is separate. The AW4 is computer controlled, using that module. The VSS wiring will be included in the engine wiring. If you plan to stick to an auto, keep the other set of wires that is shielded in with the VSS, that's for the (correct me if I'm wrong on the name) transmission speed sensor, which works a little bit differently. I still have the sensor in my transfer case, it came from an automatic Grand Cherokee.

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 13, 2011, 01:10:05 AM »

Problem lies with connecting the hydraulic metering rod. Should be a know brainer, but not sure.

tougeagle · « **Reply #33 on:** April 13, 2011, 01:20:20 AM »

Quote from: mudkicker715 on April 13, 2011, 01:10:05 AM

Problem lies with connecting the hydraulic metering rod. Should be a know brainer, but not sure.

Hydraulic metering rod?

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #34 on:** April 13, 2011, 01:47:33 AM »

Its what some incorrectly call the kickdown. It controls pressure thatis given to internals. Not exactly when to downshift.

If its not used you will find out you wish it was.

tougeagle · « **Reply #35 on:** April 13, 2011, 02:12:22 AM »

Quote from: mudkicker715 on April 13, 2011, 01:47:33 AM

Its what some incorrectly call the kickdown. It controls pressure thatis given to internals. Not exactly when to downshift.

If its not used you will find out you wish it was.

Ahh.... Though I have a distain for automatics that will be with me for quite some time, I still have to learn about them at some point, because I've already worked on a few

shanebo · « **Reply #36 on:** April 23, 2011, 10:52:46 PM »

Hey Toug what, in your opinion, is a fair asking price for a used 4.0 cylinder head? Im finding a rather wide range of prices at these junk yards.

shanebo · « **Reply #37 on:** April 23, 2011, 11:00:56 PM »

Oh yeah I was also going to ask ya

...are Siemens fuel injectors good...I found a set for a descent price. I also found some Bosch..Both are pretty close in price....is one better than the other?

tougeagle · « **Reply #38 on:** April 24, 2011, 01:00:19 PM »

Quote from: shanebo on April 23, 2011, 10:52:46 PM

Hey Toug what, in your opinion, is a fair asking price for a used 4.0 cylinder head? Im finding a rather wide range of prices at these junk yards.

You shouldn't have to pay more than 100 for one...

tougeagle · « **Reply #39 on:** April 24, 2011, 01:01:41 PM »

Quote from: shanebo on April 23, 2011, 11:00:56 PM

Oh yeah I was also going to ask ya ...are Siemens fuel injectors good...I found a set for a descent price. I also found some Bosch..Both are pretty close in price....is one better than the other?

I don't have experience with siemens, just bosch. Just make sure their impedance is around 14-14.7 ohms, which is typical of most vehicles.

eaglefreek · « **Reply #40 on:** April 24, 2011, 02:05:08 PM »

I believe Siemens are the oem injectors, Bosch would be an upgrade. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41w3sX2Pifs I plan on getting my injectors for my swap from the guy in video. http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=64

shanebo · « **Reply #41 on:** April 24, 2011, 08:04:35 PM »

ok I got another question...suprise, suprise

...Ive got no engine to look at for reference right now and my memory sucks...Where is the crank position located on these cars....and will I have to change anything to to install the 4.0's sensor.

mudkicker715 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 24, 2011, 08:20:28 PM »

Easily located on the drivers side top of tranny.

tougeagle · « **Reply #43 on:** April 25, 2011, 02:45:31 AM »

Quote from: shanebo on April 24, 2011, 08:04:35 PM

ok I got another question...suprise, suprise ...Ive got no engine to look at for reference right now and my memory sucks...Where is the crank position located on these cars....and will I have to change anything to to install the 4.0's sensor.

as mudkicker said, and for 4.0 jeeps. Our vehicles do not use a crank sensor. If you're sticking with autotragic, there is a writeup somewhere as to how to modify the bellhousing of the stock eagle tranny to accept a crank sensor. Otherwise, if you're using a jeep tranny/bellhousing, you don't have to change anything other than that, the sensor bolts up. There are two different sensors, one for auto and one for manual.

shanebo · « **Reply #44 on:** May 04, 2011, 12:52:12 AM »

Hey Toug, I met a guy whos parting out a 93 jeep. unfortunatly someone has called dibs on the heads and manifolds...but the ECM is is there. The jeep has 300,000+ miles. Do ya think it would yeild a descent ECM or should I try to find one with less hours on the computer
Thanx
shane

tougeagle · « **Reply #45 on:** May 04, 2011, 01:16:09 AM »

Quote from: shanebo on May 04, 2011, 12:52:12 AM

Hey Toug, I met a guy whos parting out a 93 jeep. unfortunatly someone has called dibs on the heads and manifolds...but the ECM is is there. The jeep has 300,000+ miles. Do ya think it would yeild a descent ECM or should I try to find one with less hours on the computer
Thanx
shane

most definitely find one with far less miles. They can be had on the 'bay for around 100 or less. Look on www.car-part.com too. go for 94 or 95

shanebo · « **Reply #46 on:** May 04, 2011, 11:45:21 PM »

Thanx Tough!!

shanebo · « **Reply #47 on:** May 14, 2011, 01:22:22 AM »

Im not having any luck finding a low mile jeep down here....most are 180,000+ mile vehicles or completly toast. Do ya think I would be better off getting a rebuilt OBD1 and just getting the wire harness from a donor jeep?...cylinder heads also seem to be a hot item too...plenty of Renex era ones to be had though...go figure $:-\$

maddog · « **Reply #48 on:** May 14, 2011, 02:21:32 AM »

i think there are still a few left at one of the local yards here.

tougeagle · « **Reply #49 on:** May 14, 2011, 02:54:57 PM »

There's a yard in Denver that is super cheap, you should check them out, it's worth the trip. If I had time, I'd offer to find a yard and pull parts for you, but I don't right now

Call western auto recycling, they're off 61st and Federal,. and give U-pull-u-save a call too. Don't mistake them for pullnsave.

shanebo · « **Reply #50 on:** May 14, 2011, 11:04:25 PM »

I like cheap!!

Ill give them a hollar...thanks again man

eaglefreek · « **Reply #51 on:** May 15, 2011, 09:41:39 AM »

The guy who has my old 81 Eagle may still have the computer that I gave him with the car. He was going to go fuel injection but decided to stay with a carb. It was from a 93 with a manual transmission. I call him today and see if he still has it. I know he'll let it go cheap. Do you already have a manifold? I think he has a 91-98 intake also.

shanebo · « **Reply #52 on:** May 16, 2011, 11:44:33 PM »

Hey Justin...I just found out today retapping the block involves a bit...well...alot more than just tapping they have to fill in the existing holes and then redrill....any way its like 350.00....so I think Im sticking with the 7/16. Im already into this motor about 400.00 and I really cant justify another 350.00...not right now atleast. My problem now is finding a set of 7/16 bolts...Where did you find yours.

By the way, A/C has been deleted so that top pully is no longer an issue.

ericarmstrong · « **Reply #53 on:** May 17, 2011, 09:14:58 AM »

can't you get a 7 / 16 to 1/2 bushing?

shanebo · « **Reply #54 on:** May 17, 2011, 11:53:33 PM »

I did find some bushings at Fastenall....Now I just gotta find some new 7/16 bolts. I got a bunch of old 7/16 head bolts laying around from various eagles over the years...Im just scared to death to re use them...Ive busted off head bolts before....it sucks!!

shanebo · « **Reply #55 on:** May 30, 2011, 02:18:09 AM »

Hey Toug..what tools will I need to pull the jeep computer.....How hard was it to pull the computer out of the donor jeep

tougeagle · « **Reply #56 on:** May 30, 2011, 09:29:43 PM »

Quote from: shanebo on May 30, 2011, 02:18:09 AM

Hey Toug..what tools will I need to pull the jeep computer.....How hard was it to pull the computer out of the donor jeep

http://www.amceaglenest.com/~iowaeagl/guide/index.php?title=Converting_from_7/16%22_head_bolts_to_1/2%22 Writeup on rethreading the block.... There is no reason to use bushigns, it's simply drill the holes and use a turret mill to rethread. The mill is extremely expensive and the reason a shop needs to do it, but that's all that's involved...

As for the computer, should be easy, it's on the driver's side in the engine bay, you will need a nutdriver, though I don't remember what size but it's pretty common with the other small hex head bolts found in the Eagle engine bay..

You will need to follow every connector back to the sensors in the engine bay, you will have to cut wiring to the fuel pump and vss, though that will be easy enough to rewire. You can cut at the firewall plug as well.

misterwakko · « **Reply #57 on:** July 22, 2011, 07:39:24 PM »

Can anybody help on where to put the ECM. I am doing a GM 4.3 TBI conversion and can't figure out where to put the ECM?

I wanted to put it where the original one was but it's to big.

Smacaroni · « **Reply #58 on:** July 29, 2011, 11:51:12 AM »

Quote from: shanebo on May 17, 2011, 11:53:33 PM

I did find some bushings at Fastenall....Now I just gotta find some new 7/16 bolts. I got a bunch of old 7/16 head bolts laying around from various eagles over the years...Im just scared to death to re use them...Ive busted off head bolts before....it sucks!!

Preface: on a Wagoneer, not an Eagle...
I used the air-pump "pipe" that runs from the engine bay to the cat, if you run a 7/16" tap through it, it will place nice with the bolts and it's the perfect OD to fit in the 1/2" holes. Someone removed the air pump on mine and my pipe looked like swiss cheese in some places, so I had no problem using mine.
When you're in the junk yard, find a section about a foot to a foot and a half long and cut that to fit, a little short so there's no issue with torquing the bolts to the right spec. In my case, I also used a hammer and chisel to crimp them onto the bolts.
You only need four, if you get it in position, it won't move with four, all 14 bolts is excessive.
Also, I reused my old bolts, no issues. The correct bolts are darn expensive but here's the link:
http://headbolts.com/Jeep-AMC-232-244-258-4.0-engine-head-bolts.html

As far as the cost goes, you can get a used one, have it magnafluxed, have the valves and seats ground and it won't matter how many miles are on it. It will be like new. OTOH, I got my head, valve cover, manifold and down pipe for $15 at http://eichelbergerupullit.com/ but I think the cashier made a mistake because I was quoted $60 on the phone w/o the down pipe. I was quoted $200 from a pull-it-for-u salvage yard. Just shop around.

Good luck.

ETA: I had to remove my valve cover the other day, I found out it's a royal pain in the butt to get off with the coolant lines in place and darn near impossible to get back on. I cut the corner of the valve cover near the large coolant line, enough to take a good sized chunk of it off, but still retaining the cover bolt hole which makes it much easier. I realize the Eagle firewall is different from mine, but if there's any screws that protrude through the firewall towards the area where the valve cover will be, cut them so there's almost none sticking out, this too will make assembly easier.