New 82 Eagle Owner in Chicago Two Door Lift Back

[Beaverseagle]

Hello All,

I am the proud owner of an 1982 AMC Eagle 2 Door Lift Back 285 automatic 50k miles on it. 

The stories goes like this. 3 weeks ago I was visiting a friend's campground in northern Wisconsin.  We were driving around. He was showing me the sights.  Blam. I see this blue Eagle.  Of course I stop his blathering and ask who owns the Eagle. He bought it at an estate sale.  An old lady used it to plow her driveway after her husband died.  I'm sure it got some other uses with 50k on it.  But that's what I was told.  I bought it that day.  I still haven't heard it run.  I know you already hate me.  You won't be the first.  I was assured it ran, but it needed a battery.  This is a very good friend of mine that will return the money if it doesn't run.  I was on a road trip so I didn't have time to wait for him to get it running.  And I wan't to make sure it was mine.

I've turned into a pretty big gear head the last 5 years. I bought an old VW bus and have cut my teeth hacking on the old girl.  Just completed a 1500k mile road trip in her.

This weekend I'm heading up to the Eagle to work on her a bit.  I'll be returning to driver her home mid-September for reasons that will bore you more than I already have.

I've tried to glean some info off this awesome site for newbie info and usual issues, such as vacuum leaks, weak ignition, bad fuel hoses.  These standard issues for neglected buses.

My goal is to give it a good tune up with parts I can grab in a couple days time from local FLAPS.  I'm grabbing a new Interstate battery, new spark plugs, wires, rotor and distributor cap if they have it.   For safety, check the brakes are working correctly. I may even change the brake fluid.  I think the pads should be fine enough to get home.  200 mile drive.  I'm hoping the carb doesn't need a rebuild.  He apparently had it into a mechanic.  But we will see.   

My question is, are there any specific things I should check that I'm missing that may be a safety issue for Eagles.  Also, what size fuel line should I buy.

Sorry no pictures.  I will have some upon my return this weekend.

Thanks!

[eaglefreek]

Welcome. No one is going to hate you here for saving an Eagle. My biggest concern would be rust. They are prone to rust in the front subframe area when driven in the rust belt.

[Just4u2c]

I within the last month have bought 2 of these... (ok one was just a 2wd spirit GT)
Neither had ran in like 5 years...
The SX/4 I brought it home, charged the battery, added gas.. It wouldn't crank with the key so I jumped the solenoid with channel locks and it cranked a while and finally started.. And for some reason the key started working fine... It is great, starts and runs... Had to tighten the serp belt cause it screamed at me. but other than that golden..

The Spirit is just a parts car.. And the person I bought it from actually started it before I got there.. But it has old smelly gas in it and doesnt idle.... I haven't had a chance to try it but there is a trick to cleaning carbs that don't idle well after sitting..  if it is running at like 3000 rpm you grab a towel and smother the carb inlet... That takes all the vacuum and pulls it through the idle circuit and cleans it out...  I would only do this as a last ditch effort before rebuild though.. But it has fixed a few for me..

So congrats on the car, hope it all goes good for ya... But expect anything... check out those brakes and suspension and don't forget the lights... probably bring an oil change along.. Check the belts, watch for overheating cause thermostats like to stick over time.. 

And get us some pictures..

[vangremlin]

Congrats and welcome to the Den.  Can't wait to see the pictures!

[AMC1]

Welcome to the Den - I'm just north of you in Skokie. Sounds like you're concerned about a fuel leak. Metal fuel lines are 5/16" (ID), brakes are 3/16". Bending them to your specs. is another matter.

[Beaverseagle]

Thanks for the tips and best wishes.  So they don't have any rubber fuel lines?

I'll check for rust. I didn't have a chance to crawl under it when I saw it but the body seemed to be in pretty good condition. 

I didn't sleep much last night. Too excited about getting her back on the road. My local flaps had most everything including a thermostat and gasket.

[vangremlin]

Thanks for the tips and best wishes.  So they don't have any rubber fuel lines?

I'll check for rust. I didn't have a chance to crawl under it when I saw it but the body seemed to be in pretty good condition. 

I didn't sleep much last night. Too excited about getting her back on the road. My local flaps had most everything including a thermostat and gasket.

There are some rubber fuel hoses, back by the tank, and also near the fuel pump and into the carb.  I can't recall offhand what size they are.

[amcfool1]

the main fuel lines are 5/16" ID, and the return lines are 1/4" id, good luck, gz

[Beaverseagle]

the main fuel lines are 5/16" ID, and the return lines are 1/4" id, good luck, gz

Great thanks!

[Beaverseagle]

I went up to Wisconsin this weekend and got some work done.  We got her started and ran very strong.  Goes through the gears pretty smooth.  I didn't have a vacuum tool with me to set the curb idle correctly but she seemed to do okay.  We ran her in 4wd.  She seemed to work fine.  However the switch isn't working. I'll probably manually switch her to 2wd for the drive back to Chicago.

I think she is an SX4, but doesn't have the decal.  Also looks like there are some body piece missing from the corners and bumpers.  Not sure why they were removed. ] The only significate rust I found was the driver side rockers.  See pictures below.  I'm hoping I can get if fixed. 

Also the temp heat gage isn't working.  I'll need to figure that out next time I go up to get her.  The thermostat was working.

I also need to have the wheel bearings repacked or replaced.  The hubs were smoking hot after a couple mile drive.














This is the worst of it.  The is at the rear of the driver side rocker.

[Just4u2c]

NICE SCORE!!  That thing looks to be in great shape...

Wish mine was that nice when I picked it up..

So I am curious as the the 2dr liftback vs SX/4 also.. I thought they were all SX/4 in that body style... I will be watching this post as to see someone explain the differences..

[eaglefreek]

I think she is an SX4, but doesn't have the decal.
Yes, it's an SX4. They all are with that body style
 Also looks like there are some body piece missing from the corners and bumpers.  Not sure why they were removed.   
The early bumper corners were rumored to be made out of a different material and most of them have disintegrated
Also the temp heat gage isn't working. 
The sending unit is in the left rear corner of the cylinder head. Make sure the wire is till attached.
I also need to have the wheel bearings repacked or replaced.  The hubs were smoking hot after a couple mile drive.
Unfortunately, this isn't an easy task on an Eagle. The bearings are pressed into the hub and requires a bit of work to do properly.
Your dog looks like my first dog Betsy! Unfortunately, she's no longer with us.

[Beaverseagle]

NICE SCORE!!  That thing looks to be in great shape...

Wish mine was that nice when I picked it up..

So I am curious as the the 2dr liftback vs SX/4 also.. I thought they were all SX/4 in that body style... I will be watching this post as to see someone explain the differences..

Yeah I thought it was lift back but turns out it's an SX4.  I think the lift back doesn't have the sports package.

[Beaverseagle]

I think she is an SX4, but doesn't have the decal.
Yes, it's an SX4. They all are with that body style
 Also looks like there are some body piece missing from the corners and bumpers.  Not sure why they were removed.   
The early bumper corners were rumored to be made out of a different material and most of them have disintegrated
Also the temp heat gage isn't working. 
The sending unit is in the left rear corner of the cylinder head. Make sure the wire is till attached.
I also need to have the wheel bearings repacked or replaced.  The hubs were smoking hot after a couple mile drive.
Unfortunately, this isn't an easy task on an Eagle. The bearings are pressed into the hub and requires a bit of work to do properly.
Your dog looks like my first dog Betsy! Unfortunately, she's no longer with us.

Thanks for the info!  Yes, they do look a lot a like.  She was a cutie.  I don't know what I will do when Fletcher goes.

[MudPuppy]

All of this body style are SX/4's.... same body as the Spirit & Spirit AMX but 4x4. The SX/4's usually only had a vinyl decal on the sides to actually label them as an SX/4, but most have worn off over the years. It's an SX/4 whether it has a sports package or not. There's the base model, DL model and the Sport model in the SX/4 line.
The Sport model SX/4 is signified by a Sport badge on each side just below the Eagle emblems on the fenders, sport steering wheel, all black trim & usually have other things like spoiler, center console, etc... but these were also options for any model too.
DL model has the woodgrain on the interior dash, a passenger side mirror, etc.
Base model has no interior woodgrain, passenger side mirror, etc.
Either way, the only difference in between all the models was aesthetic only.

[Beaverseagle]

All of this body style are SX/4's.... same body as the Spirit & Spirit AMX but 4x4. The SX/4's usually only had a vinyl decal on the sides to actually label them as an SX/4, but most have worn off over the years. It's an SX/4 whether it has a sports package or not. There's the base model, DL model and the Sport model in the SX/4 line.
The Sport model SX/4 is signified by a Sport badge on each side just below the Eagle emblems on the fenders, sport steering wheel, all black trim & usually have other things like spoiler, center console, etc... but these were also options for any model too.
DL model has the woodgrain on the interior dash, a passenger side mirror, etc.
Base model has no interior woodgrain, passenger side mirror, etc.
Either way, the only difference in between all the models was aesthetic only.

The Egalpedia calls out a lift back. I just figured it was a base model of the SX/4

[MudPuppy]

All of this body style are SX/4's.... same body as the Spirit & Spirit AMX but 4x4. The SX/4's usually only had a vinyl decal on the sides to actually label them as an SX/4, but most have worn off over the years. It's an SX/4 whether it has a sports package or not. There's the base model, DL model and the Sport model in the SX/4 line.
The Sport model SX/4 is signified by a Sport badge on each side just below the Eagle emblems on the fenders, sport steering wheel, all black trim & usually have other things like spoiler, center console, etc... but these were also options for any model too.
DL model has the woodgrain on the interior dash, a passenger side mirror, etc.
Base model has no interior woodgrain, passenger side mirror, etc.
Either way, the only difference in between all the models was aesthetic only.

The Egalpedia calls out a lift back. I just figured it was a base model of the SX/4

Liftback is just a style; just like coupe, sedan, wagon, etc.

[TEagle85]

I'm also in Chicago, Logan Square area. Just finished my Eagle last week. Well its never finished really.

[amcfool1]

hi,congratulations on your Eagle. nice car, same color as my sedan. The only thing that concerns me is that you said front wheel hubs got so hot they were smoking! You most certainly cannot drive the car any distance in that condition,and, unfortunately, as someone already said, replacing front wheel bearings on ANY Eagle is not a simple matter, and no, they cannot just be repacked. You may want to consider trailering the car home, where you can take you time and replace them. It is not something you can do with only hand tools in the driveway. It is also not cheap! Each wheel takes TWO bearings (Timken Set 26,or equivalent) TWO different seals, and a fairly hard to find O-ring.  Bearings are about $30. each, seals about another $25, and the O-ring maybe $10 or so. So parts alone are close to $100. for EACH wheel. Then, the hub assembly has to be pressed together, after of course being completely taken apart, which is no small job in itself. This is not meant to discourage you, just a heads up as to what is involved. Now, at only 50k miles, your bearings should be fine! They are designed to go well over 100k, and are actually overbuilt for the application, The only reason I can think of for such an early failure is the front end being submerged for a length of time! Be sure it's the bearings before you get into the process. What may be happening is your calipers are seized from sitting too long, creating the heat and the smoke. This is a much easier and cheaper fix. Change front brake lines, the rubber flexible ones while you're at it. After 35 years or so, they tend to deteriorate from the INSIDE, and those little chunks of rubber clog up the calipers and "seize" them up. Calipers and lines are available almost anywhere, ie Rock Auto. good luck, gz

[Beaverseagle]

I'm also in Chicago, Logan Square area. Just finished my Eagle last week. Well its never finished really.

Cool we will have to get together sometime. I'm in Rogers Park but moving to Cicero this weekend.

[Beaverseagle]

hi,congratulations on your Eagle. nice car, same color as my sedan. The only thing that concerns me is that you said front wheel hubs got so hot they were smoking! You most certainly cannot drive the car any distance in that condition,and, unfortunately, as someone already said, replacing front wheel bearings on ANY Eagle is not a simple matter, and no, they cannot just be repacked. You may want to consider trailering the car home, where you can take you time and replace them. It is not something you can do with only hand tools in the driveway. It is also not cheap! Each wheel takes TWO bearings (Timken Set 26,or equivalent) TWO different seals, and a fairly hard to find O-ring.  Bearings are about $30. each, seals about another $25, and the O-ring maybe $10 or so. So parts alone are close to $100. for EACH wheel. Then, the hub assembly has to be pressed together, after of course being completely taken apart, which is no small job in itself. This is not meant to discourage you, just a heads up as to what is involved. Now, at only 50k miles, your bearings should be fine! They are designed to go well over 100k, and are actually overbuilt for the application, The only reason I can think of for such an early failure is the front end being submerged for a length of time! Be sure it's the bearings before you get into the process. What may be happening is your calipers are seized from sitting too long, creating the heat and the smoke. This is a much easier and cheaper fix. Change front brake lines, the rubber flexible ones while you're at it. After 35 years or so, they tend to deteriorate from the INSIDE, and those little chunks of rubber clog up the calipers and "seize" them up. Calipers and lines are available almost anywhere, ie Rock Auto. good luck, gz

Wow that's great info.  So the Eagle is a 500 mile round trip.  I don't know anyone that has a truck that can tow it.  Renting anything would just be too much money. I'd rather put the money into the Eagle.  My friend I'm buying it from recommended a guy near him.  I called him today and told him the issue. I'll see what what has to say.  I hope it's just the brakes like you said..

[Beaverseagle]

Good call.  It was the brakes.  So he's recommending new rotors and is going to take apart the calipers and lube everything up.  I also told him to put in a new water pump and thermostat and new brake fluid.

He says the tire are dry rot.  I hope they have another 260 miles in them to get me home. I don't want buy a set of tires just to get him home and then buy a bigger set of tires after I put a lift on her.

[amcfool1]

hi, glad to hear the problem was the brakes and not the bearings. A brake job is MUCH cheaper and easier, and having new rotors/calipers, AND front brake lines will give you piece of mind on the road. Brakes are no place to try to save money, your life depends on them! As for dry rotted tires, be careful. Around town at low speeds it's no big deal if one blows, but having one go out at Interstate speeds in heavy traffic is no joke, happened to me once years ago, tire blew, stopped, changed to spare, also old, it blew about an hour later, then I was really stranded. Also damaged the car some, luckily no one was hurt., and it's August and hot, heat, high speeds and old dry rotted tires don't get along. Get the factory "upgrade" tires 215/65-15, and call it good. Concentrate on getting your Eagle in top shape before trying any kind of lift. Again, lifting an Eagle is MUCH harder than say, a Jeep, and not really necessary. Most "lifted" Eagles are not done well, and their driveability suffers. You need to do a LOT of research before attempting this. Oversize tires also need some fender cutting, so, again, walk before you run. Remember, you have an Eagle, NOT a Jeep! An Eagle is a car, and it's already lifted for you!, by the factory. For the "look", just pull off all the plastic fender flares, and don't tell anyone it's stock, people will think you lifted it. good luck, gz

[Beaverseagle]

You make some good points.  I'll look into tires.

[Beaverseagle]

Will a 215/75/15 fit or a 205/75/15 be okay?

[eaglefreek]

215/75 might rub slightly and require some trimming of the inner fender. 205/75's should fit without any issues.

[amcfool1]

stock sizes were 195/75/15. and 215/65 15. the 205 should be ok, 215 should work, but be more aware of fit at fron t.

[Beaverseagle]

My SX4 made it home without any issues. Here is how it went down. 

Picked it up from the mechanic on Saturday afternoon.  High tailed over to Wally World for new tires and oil change.  I just picked the El Cheapos. They didn't have anything I liked in stock.  Went to lunch with my buddy.  When I got back, the tires had not been installed.  The manager told me my lugs nuts were stripped and they were  afraid to try and remove them because they didn't have the tools to fix it if something broke.

I found this strange because you would think the mechanic would have said something because he had the wheels off. I would have paid for new lug nuts.  Very strange.  I looked at the lug nuts and indeed they were all screwed up.  Still scratching my head as to why he didn't put new lug nuts on her.

Well, there wasn't much I could do or had time to do I was leaving in the morning.  I had to make those old tires work.  And they did. I made the 250 mile trip fine.  No issues.

I tried to shift her into 2x4 manually but no go on that. The lever would not move. So we made the entire trip in 4x4 and she ran like a top. I was very impressed.  Not a lot of get up and go but got her up to 75 a couple times.  But kept it at 65 most of the way.  I'm not sure if I was doing something wrong. I followed the Eaglepedia.  I have an automatic so I was wondering if it mattered. I tried with the tranny in park and in neutral, running and not running.  I tried moving it both ways.  No go.  I'm thinking it's froze. But I don;t know why it would be.

Also noted, she didn't burn any oil or leak any fluids.

[carnuck]

Do you know if it's a NP129, NP119 or something else swapped in?

There should be a round tag on it that tells you near the rear driveshaft.

[Beaverseagle]

No everything looks pretty stock. The transfer-case shift motor froze up.  I had to disconnect it from the lever and she went into 2 wheel drive no problem.