I have a few blue fronts sitting here if you need one
Ive been looking high and low for a descent SX4 for years....They dont pop up too much anymore. Thats one lucky find as well as a great save!!!
If your O2 sensor isn't hooked up, then there is a good chance that your computer was bypassed, meaning you now have a non-feedback carb on it (or the stepper motor has been disabled). Some of the other disconnected wiring could be related to this.
If your O2 sensor isn't hooked up, then there is a good chance that your computer was bypassed, meaning you now have a non-feedback carb on it (or the stepper motor has been disabled). Some of the other disconnected wiring could be related to this.
Would this be a problem, or does it not matter?
to be honest I don't know, I would think not but some of these inspection agents don't like older cars and look for a reason to fail anything older than 10 years. I have a good friend of mine that does the inspections on MY cars and I take anything that my wife drives to my work where they look over everything with a fine tooth comb (norminaly costs me around 200 bucks in repairs)I have a few blue fronts sitting here if you need one
Ah, just realized you said this. That would be great if you could hold one for me, I'm missing the front right endcap. Do you know if they're needed to pass inspection?
Anyone have any tips for troubleshooting the speedometer/gauges? None seem to be moving when they should be.
No, it should'nt be any problem as far as the car running as long as you cap off the rest of the pulse air system...As for emissions, I cant say for certain how much they will be effected.
DANG, sounds like your making good progress FAST. if your on your summer break from school, at the rate your going now, you just might have you a real nice dd by the time school starts again. keep it up as best you can. sounds like maybe this car isnt to terrible bad?? im LOVING this save. keep it up.
Im gonna need drums and rotors too....and probably calipers and hoses as well.
that head looks like a 4.0 head to me. not a 4.2 thats for sure. atleast not like in my 83 and 82 sx4's. looks just like my 93 4.0.
The preheater is just a piece of sheet metal arround the manifold. There is no need to plug it.
Post a pic of the man x member please.
The what?
yeah we know about the snowplow split the did with two good eagles.
sadly, what's done is done. We all have to take a deep breath and think "we can't save them all"
the rear windshield is just reflecting the tent it's under.
I usually take one with a flash and 1 without ,usually end up using the flash picture(clearer) and shows all the bits hidden in the shadows.
You might want to get the oil pan cleaned up before it rusts through giving you a major oil leak :oand from my experence JB weld is only a band aid once it starts leaking
Thanks. Yeah, the seats are surprisingly comfortable. There are a couple small tears in the driver seat you can see on the far side in the pictures. I've also had trouble adjusting them, they won't sit even because they both lock in different places. The tracks underneath are very rusted, so I'm not sure what I'll have to do about that.you could take the seats out, remove the tracks and media blast them
you could take the seats out, remove the tracks and media blast them
That interior is looking pretty sharp man.
Painted my trans oil pan and replaced it along with a new gasket, filter, and fluid yesterday and today. The old fluid was pretty gunked up and nasty, it almost looked like a thick white paint in the pan.
I decided to practice with clear coat since the pan's not in a visible spot anyway. It didn't turn out so great, especially being outside where all kinds of moths could get in it, and the clear is matte so it just gave it a white haze.
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/2011-07-10_19-48-31_812.jpg)
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/2011-07-11_16-58-23_492.jpg)
From the look of what was in the trans pan I would suspect that the cooler in the rad has a leak.
just to be on the safe side i would replace it.
5/16 feed
1/4 return
3/16 evap
gettin there!! :occasion14:
Hope you don't run into any issues along the way.
Reuseable gasket? I am confused.
Yup, back when IowaEagle and his groupies where young they used to used something call Gasket Shellac.
Just a tip, keep in mind primer absorbs anything that gets on it, whether it be grease, or moisture. You may want to rattle bomb a top coat on that if you plan on it being primer for an extended period of time. If not, it can cause many headaches later (I've made that error :banghead:), lol.
I replaced the whole master cylinder and brake booster a couple weeks ago. Didn't bench bleed it, but I've read about people not having problems without bench bleeding. Even still, all I did was a gravity bleed and the bubbles were seemingly never ending, so it shouldn't have affected that.
I have replaced practically everything in the brake system at this point...
PHEW, just missed...As a direct testament to this phenomonon , look up the post "Money Pit" and go to page 26 , you can see my SX/4 under a large tree, but still standing.
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/2011-08-14_15-38-56_711.jpg)
On the plus side, my new Wheel Horse Electro 12 Charger came in handy to pull the branches down!
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/2011-08-14_16-26-24_900.jpg)
The trees must really like our Eagles :P
Chug chug! You're train just keeps one moving! :)
I've heard that at some point AMC or Chylser decided to make the head bolts "torque-to-yield" bolts. That means that the first time you use them they'll torque down more accurately because if you accidently overtorque one slightly more than the others it will yield and stretch to maintain an accurate torque setting. It also means that once you've used them once they should be thrown away. Its good practice to replace the head bolts every time you put an engine together, but those buggers are really expensive. I don't mind replacing the ones that are 25 years old, but then I'm going to reuse them. Hopefully I can find a trustworthy source who actually knows which head bolts are "torque-to-yield."
That has to be the weirdest thing I have ever seen!!
(http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x427/captspillane/Eagleweb%20Postings/Feb08HomemadeTransformer.jpg)
Sounds like you got the wrong U joints.
We had a little confusion for one part though. When I replaced the rear u-joints, there was no ridge to hold the two bearing cups in place. The old ones were held by a pair of U shaped clips, but the new part doesn't have a slot for these clips. I tried reusing the clips, but they pressed out the boots on the cups and it still slides back and forth. Anyone know what I'm talking about and a solution, besides using the old bearing cups?
i had the same thing happen as it was the only mode of transportation i had at the time i just said screw it and reused the old caps. just make sure you clean them out real good before you regrease them and don't take the other caps off till your ready to put the old ones on and make sure that all the needle are there before you put the caps on other wise you will destroy them very quickly.
We had a little confusion for one part though. When I replaced the rear u-joints, there was no ridge to hold the two bearing cups in place. The old ones were held by a pair of U shaped clips, but the new part doesn't have a slot for these clips. I tried reusing the clips, but they pressed out the boots on the cups and it still slides back and forth. Anyone know what I'm talking about and a solution, besides using the old bearing cups?
Really admiring your work, an egg for you. You must be pretty close to where I grew up. I'm from Douglassville, near Pottstown right off 422.
"We had a little confusion for one part though. When I replaced the rear u-joints, there was no ridge to hold the two bearing cups in place. The old ones were held by a pair of U shaped clips, but the new part doesn't have a slot for these clips. I tried reusing the clips, but they pressed out the boots on the cups and it still slides back and forth. Anyone know what I'm talking about and a solution, besides using the old bearing cups?"
you got the wrong u-joint. you will find WAY TO OFTEN the stupid parts stores condense part #'s. a u-joint the same dimentions, but worng clips. your looking for the joint i have right in my hand. it is a PRECISION u-joint, part # 455. thats what fit my sx4. before i found it, i didn get away just fine (one sx4 still runs this way) on the bolt on strap, i welded a lip to hold the caps in. you should be able to cross refrence that # to get the correct joint. KEEP THAT BOX TAB WITH THE PART # IN YOUR GLOVE BOX!!!! i try to keep track of all part #'s that are harder to find.
Let's not blame the parts stores. I have worked in Auto Parts for 8 years now and the main issue is that no parts supplier that I know of knows how to clearly list U joints in a computer. I have always used paper catalogs to find U joints because of this.
I think you've got that left hand washer on backwards for the strut rod bushing.
Hi Phil,
I can deliver it this week-end for no gas money to your place in Schwenksville for $400 - $65 = $335 cash total. I have attached all the pics I have of the motor and associated parts so you can see them full size. If there is any specific pictures you would like I can take them tonight and send them to you tonight.
I went to your link on the SX website a few e-mails ago and the only thing I request is that you include my e-mail in your updates on your progress with your project. The other thing I think it would be best if you came to my house first in Westtown just off of Routes 352 and 926 to see what you are getting just to make sure this is what you want. Then I could follow you back to your place.
I will also include some manuals I have that have wiring diagrams to help you wire it up. It won't be easy but you can do it. You can even use me as a resource for technical info / guidance. My comanche was an 87 with a standard 4.0Litre with Renix - Bendix (French) fuel injection and what I was going to upgrade to is the 91-96 4.0 Litre High Output with Chrylers fuel injection system. I have been modifing cars for a long time. I have ASE Certification as a Master Automobile Technician since 1984. I don't know it all but what I do know I'm willing to share, and I do know what I do NOT know when it comes to cars and you will too!!
As a side note I used to live in Skippack a long time ago and I am very familiar with the area and I would love to relocate back to that area (especially on 12 accres!!!!) but I don't think I could convince my wife!!!
Anyhow, let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Howard
i just need the $$$ to blow on them. lol.
im waiting to see how much you get blasted out of the way on your spring break.
im waiting to see how much you get blasted out of the way on your spring break.
I did start painting the seat frames though, and also did this:
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/Baskinator/d6cdf9a7.jpg)
Pair of tin snips, broken sledge hammer, and a cast iron vice got me there. It's a little short, but I don't think it's too bad. What do you think?
That's just a piece of the floor I "fabricated" to be welded in. Either my brother will weld the floor for me, or I will learn how to weld it myself. I still have plenty of other sections to fabricate, that's just what I got to with the time, tools, and material I had on hand. I have more progress and photos to post on the rust repair. It is being very thoroughly done, and I'm replacing as much of the rusty metal as I can.