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  • May 20, 2024, 01:09:52 AM

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Author Topic: Tire/rim Removal due Plat  (Read 7271 times)

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Offline dkoug

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Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« on: July 02, 2012, 12:51:13 PM »
Embarrassing but tale of frustration

Our national holiday weekend and my Dutch bike had a flat yesterday during our only good down pour.
This morning notice the rear end of my 82 Eagle wagon seemed to be soft on taking corners.
Passenger side rear tire low, put an air compressor (mickey mouse type) on it with no success.  Well figured even with new hip I could change tires to my spare.  Well now thinking the rim must be welded to the drum, cannot break it free.  The tire iron has not provided sufficient leverage to break it free.

Any suggestion as to getting it to come off.  Do not have good sludge hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

dkoug

Offline philotomy

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2012, 06:38:20 PM »
try a little penatrating oil if you can see the drum,disc;careful not to load the studs with too much or you'll have to clean them real good
Philotomy,(my old  D+D Hobbit character) noun,pronounced "fil oto mee",but you can call me Don
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Offline lapoltba

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #2 on: July 02, 2012, 07:07:36 PM »
i'll 2nd that.  PB blaster has always worked for me.  WD-40 works alright too, just takes longer.

Offline Billman

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #3 on: July 02, 2012, 10:58:57 PM »
I ran into this problem many a time when I drove tow truck, we carried a 4 foot 4x4 on the truck and would use it to remove the wheel by smacking the wheel at edge of the rim. Most of the time it would only take a couple good solid smacks for the wheel to pop loose.
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Offline El Matador

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2012, 11:02:56 AM »
I assume we're talking about an alloy wheel which has fused itself to the drum.  I've run into this problem many times, especially at the beginning of every winter when removing summer tires.

I use the spare tire as a sledgehammer.  Hold it vertically and swing it at the stuck wheel, giving it alternating smacks at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions.  It may take quite a few blows, but this should eventually break it free.  Plus, you have little to no chance of damaging your alloy wheel since you're using a big piece of rubber to hit it.
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Offline dkoug

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2012, 08:06:07 PM »
Thanks fellows

I got a rubber mallet from a neighbor but no success, tried my only fluid ( brake cleaning part) no success. 

Today  friend brought over a air tank and I put the lugs back on drove to tire shop.  They got a more experienced tire guy on it after the rookie pounding it with a rubber mallet from the outside had no succes. He grabbed a mean looking slug with a 5 foot handle.  A couple of good wackes from the back side of the tire and it popped off.
Problem was a leaking rim seal.

So next time I drive 4000 km to Inuvik, NWT I better rotate the tires to make sure I can change it.

Thanks

dkoug

Should carry a can of lubricate as suggest also


Offline carnuck

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #6 on: July 03, 2012, 11:53:17 PM »
Lube the back of the rim where it touches the drum and it won't rust on again/
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Offline Eagleearl

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2012, 08:54:22 AM »
Usually the center hole is tight on the Eagles and can rust on. Most of the time if you use a propane torch or heat gun, around the center hole, it will loosen up and come off. I like El Matador's trick of using the spare for a sledge.

Offline carguy87

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2012, 12:22:35 PM »
I put a thin coat of anti-seize on the mating surface of the drum and around the ring of the hub.  And always make sure to clean the mounting surface on the rim! That corrosion build up can cause it to mate unevenly which will create a wobble going down the road, usually an angle grinder with a medium scotch lock pad works fine to clean it off.

Offline BenM

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2012, 01:56:56 PM »
I put a thin coat of anti-seize on the mating surface of the drum and around the ring of the hub.
I've been doing that for years as well. I don't understand why that's not in every manual, it would save a lot of frustration.
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Offline shaggimo

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2012, 03:24:55 PM »
I put a thin coat of anti-seize on the mating surface of the drum and around the ring of the hub.
I've been doing that for years as well. I don't understand why that's not in every manual, it would save a lot of frustration.

The short answer.......Time is Money. It makes shops more money to have to do extra work to service your vehicle, if they take too many preventative measures, it basically takes money from the til, sounds crooked, but shops don't get paid extra to take preventative measures, unless it's requested. Out of all the shops in my area, I know of only one that takes the preventative measures on every car he works on, why? Forever repeat customers.
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Offline carguy87

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2012, 11:11:28 PM »
I like doing preventative work on the cars that come in my shop.  It gives them that extra heads up and lets them know that I care.  And that is how you keep customers coming back.

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2012, 11:38:25 PM »
This happened to me when I was trying to remove the wheels on Freeagle. They were like rusted on. I had a pry bar and was finally able to get it positioned good enough to get some leverage and free the wheel.

Offline TheWraith

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Re: Tire/rim Removal due Plat
« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2012, 07:31:45 AM »
X3 on the anti seize.
I am what Willis was talking about.

 

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