AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Project Cars => Topic started by: rollguy on November 04, 2006, 09:09:03 PM
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Here are some photos of '80 Eagle Turbo Diesel. I will post the progress of the restoration as it happens. We were able to get it started to drive it on and off the trailer, but a LOT of smoke!. It has not run for about 6 months, so I will need to drain the fuel and replace it. It also has the battery mounted above the rear axle (bad place), so I will need to re-locate it. I had to put shorter cables on it and set a battery on the engine to get it started (could not close the hood). The oil filters are mounted in the battery tray, so I will re-locate them and put the battery (Optima) where it belongs!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle001.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle003.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle004.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle005.jpg)
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So do you know if the battery was there from the factory or were some mods made later in life?
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I was told that the car was done that way from the factory (Specialized Automotive Engineering)
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OK -- I am guessing things are pretty cramped in the engine compartment.
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Yes, but with some creative fabricating, I should be able to get everything in the engine compartment. I don't like the idea of having the battery just above the rear end, and 10' long battery cables running along the underside of the car..
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I don't blame you.
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I will be looking for some parts (mostly interior) to fix and restore the old bird. The Interior color is tan with chocolate brown carpet. The dash is leather brown color.I will know more later when I get into it, but the things I know are needed are as follows:
Headliner (actually just the fabric- the cardboard piece is intact)
Headliner Trim pieces
Padded Dash
Inside Door Handle plastic in-set thingey
Leather Material to re-upholster the Seats
I have many parts to trade if anyone has an '80 parts car. I know it will be harder to find parts in the color I need, but this is the best place to find them if they exist.
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It looks to be in a lot better shape than the previous photos of it. Maybe some more of the interior.
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Yes, the Exterior is in nice shape, and NO RUST!. It will need a lot of work though, I am sure it will be worth it. I need to find some engine parts as well, and I think I am on the right track. I have joined the VMDiesel yahoo group. I am sure I will be able to find everything I need there.
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And, you will add a little bit of history to their site.
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I contacted the President of the local AMO Chapter in Colorado today. We talked about the Convention in July. I told him that I would like to bring the Turbo Diesel Eagle to the Convention if I got it restored (or at least drivable) by July. He said it they would be very happy to have it there. Lord willing, I will be there with the Turbo Diesel Eagle!
I will post more photos as I work on it, as I know we all like photos!
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I will post more photos as I work on it, as I know we all like photos!
Yes. Many of the engine and transmission, please.
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Sorry, I have not had time or a warm day to work on the restoration. Besides, I just got a 1982 2 door Mercedes 300 D (Turbo Diesel) today (only 300 Bucks!). I wanted to learn more about Diesels before takeling the Eagle. It looks like this car will help me, as it has the same Bosch Injection System. I can post photos (even though it is not an Eagle) if anybody would like.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/BenzEagle008.jpg)
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sounds good to me. we all need to learn as much as we can, so teach as you learn. Lots of pics!!!!
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Yeah show us what you learn. I don't really know anything about Diesel engines myself.
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Will be interesting. You never know others might think about a diesel conversion.
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I want to put a powerstroke in mine. :o I think that would be awesome.
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What engine and transmission are you using?
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I've owned and worked on the Mercedes diesels. They have an awesome engine! The 300D should be able to accumulate around 500,000 miles before it needs a rebuild as long as you change the oil, and use a good oil, and filter. I can tell you from experience that Mobil makes an awesome oil called Delevac. I think it's 15W40, or something close. If you want a great oil for your diesel, check it out. I've tried almost every different diesel oil, and I didn't find anything that was even close. It is usually sold in a gallon container IIRC. I'm usually a Valvoline guy all the way, but I tried the Valvoline Diesel oil and wasn't impressed. I also tried Rotellat, or however you spell it. That was a waste of money. What kind of shape is your Benz in? Post some pics if you would?
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What engine and transmission are you using?
The Eagle has a VM 3.6 L Turbodiesel. Type in 80 turbo diesel in the search, and you can read all of the threads about the '80 Turbodiesel Eagle.
I will post some photos today of both engines, and the 'Benz.
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I decided to do something on the '80 Eagle today, and got out my pressure washer to clean the Engine bay. After spraying the engine, I started to slip on the concrete! The water was imediately turning into ICE! I told you it is ccccooolllldddd here!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/BenzEagle002.jpg)
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Photo of VM Engine (Bosch Injection System) in Eagle
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/BenzEagle004.jpg)
Photo of M Benz (Bosch Injection System)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/BenzEagle009.jpg)
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What kind of shape is your Benz in? Post some pics if you would?
It is in nice shape for only $300! It is a 2 door, which are not as plentiful as the 4 door. It also has a black interior which is cool!(I mean nice, but HOT in the Summer).
I have not got it running yet. I think it needs a valve job. I adjusted the valve clearance, and that did not help. It still will not start. It has fuel, and air, so the only thing left is compression. I got a compression tester on ebay, but have not had a warm day to work on it.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/BenzEagle007.jpg)
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This will sound a bit stupid, but change BOTH of the fuel filters. The inline plastic one, and the one that looks like an oil filter. You will also need to purge the air out of the system. There is a little hand pump on the side of the injection pump to do this with. It looks like a black plastic knob that is about 1 1/2" round. Unscrew this a bit, and pull up on it. It's that priming pump. I don't remember totally off hand how to do it, so you might refer to a book. I was driving down the highway one day, and my car was going fine, next thing I knew, I couldn't even go 55. I pulled off at a rest stop, and I couldn't get it to start. I pulled off the plastic inline filter, and blew the junk out of it. Put it back in, purged the air, and was back on the road in no time. Keep an extra with you.
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Been there, Done that. I know it has fuel. I pulled the glow plugs out and cranked it. I observed a fine mist of fuel coming out of the glow plug holes.
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I had fuel too, but I had enough of a little blockage that it wouldn't run. Did you try a compression test? IIRC 300psi is approaching bad. How'd the lobes on the cam look? Just found the following info.
Normal compression is between 345 to 435 psi with an allowable difference between cylinders of 40 psi. The minimum compression should be no less than 260 psi.
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Your interior looks alot different then mine. ???
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That is an interior shot of his Mercedes. His Eagle Turbo Diesel is standard AMC.
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That is an interior shot of his Mercedes. His Eagle Turbo Diesel is standard AMC.
Yes- Thank you IowaEagle.
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I had fuel too, but I had enough of a little blockage that it wouldn't run. Did you try a compression test? IIRC 300psi is approaching bad. How'd the lobes on the cam look? Just found the following info.
Normal compression is between 345 to 435 psi with an allowable difference between cylinders of 40 psi. The minimum compression should be no less than 260 psi.
Yes, I need to check the compression. I have not had a warm time to do it. It was 10 degrees here this morning in the DESERT of Southern California!
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oops :-[
;D
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I had fuel too, but I had enough of a little blockage that it wouldn't run. Did you try a compression test? IIRC 300psi is approaching bad. How'd the lobes on the cam look? Just found the following info.
Normal compression is between 345 to 435 psi with an allowable difference between cylinders of 40 psi. The minimum compression should be no less than 260 psi.
I got the car running a month ago. I pulled the head and had a valve job done. I found that not to be the problem with the compression, as it did the same thing after the head was installed. Before installing the head, I put solvent in all of the cylenders to see how bad the rings leaked. They did not leak at all that I could tell. The problem was that the car had been sitting for a long time, and no oil on the cylender walls (washing them with solvent did not help either). After squirting oil in the cylenders through the glow plug holes, it started!I have put about 2,000 miles on it before converting it to run on Vegetable Oil. I will start another topic in "Lobby" and post photos.
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I did some more work on the Eagle this weekend. I pulled out the battery box from in front of the rear axle (dumb place for a battery) and the cables, and am going to mount the battery back in the engine compartment where it belongs. The weather has been warm here lately, so I should be doing more work on the car soon. I have received most of the interior parts from Mark (fishmoek) and will be working on the interior also.I will post photos as it progresses. I will be converting it to run on Vegetable oil as well. You can look in "Lobby" for the thread "Diesels running on Vegetable Oil"
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Sounds like you have made great progress. 2K on the engine must mean she is still a good one.
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I was hoping to get the '80 TurboDiesel Eagle ready for the Convention, but I am afraid it is not going to happen short of a Miricle. I have been working on other important projects, so the Eagle project has been put aside. I will also have a problem getting off work even if the Eagle was running. Maybe next year it will be road worthy and I can drive it to the convention whereever it is. I will still post photos, and write of the progress in this thread.
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any news on the resto?
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Still have not had time to work on it, too many other projects. When I get time, I plan to pull the head with a bad head gasget, and fix it so it runs riught. It also has a huge transmission fluid leak, and that will be next. If the trans has to be removed, the engine and trans needs to come out together. The bolts holding the trans to the engine are covered buy the oil pan, and the engine needs to be removed to take the oil pan off-FUN!
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Sounds like fun to me. Can't wait until you can get around to it. I can definitely understand the trouble with having too many projects.
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Are you doing a ground up resto?
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Hey there...I.E. just moved my "1982 Concord" thread to the project car section and I ran across your thread on the Diesel!
Man...I am shocked...I never even knew. I know this probably hasn't crossed your mind but...it may prove to be slightly intriguing for you....
http://www.greasecar.com/
Just a thought...I have been looking at some Merc. Benz 300D to do a veggie oil conversion on...then I seen your thread...I weas like..."Wow...the best of both worlds! Free Fuel and an AMC!!! COOL!!!" You could help make the world a greener place...one AMC at a time!!! ;)
Good luck with your project!!!
JB
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Hey there...I.E. just moved my "1982 Concord" thread to the project car section and I ran across your thread on the Diesel!
Man...I am shocked...I never even knew. I know this probably hasn't crossed your mind but...it may prove to be slightly intriguing for you....
http://www.greasecar.com/
Just a thought...I have been looking at some Merc. Benz 300D to do a veggie oil conversion on...then I seen your thread...I weas like..."Wow...the best of both worlds! Free Fuel and an AMC!!! COOL!!!" You could help make the world a greener place...one AMC at a time!!! ;)
Good luck with your project!!!
JB
You must have read my mind, as I already plan to run it on Veg Oil with a Lovecraft Single Tank Conversion. http://www.lovecraftbiofuels.com . I already have a 300CD, and a 190D running with the Lovecraft system.
I also have a 4 cyl Turbodiesel engine and trans from a Dodge D50 that I would like to stuff in my Suzuki Samurai.
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Just my $.02....
I still say Biodiesel is much safer for a diesel engine. If you do not get the veggie oil hot enough before it hits the injectors you will destroy the engine. Its happend to five people here that I know of using kits sold on the internet via multiple manufacturers.
Biodiesel is extremely easy to produce, and requires no modifications to your engine except for seal and fuel hose upgrades to a compatible material.
If you were driving anything else I would say burn veggie oil! But the Diesel your talking about is pretty rare is it not? I would not want to risk damaging it beyond repair by burning a fuel that could harm the machine.
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I have been reading up on the veggie oil movement A lOT lately and I have read that Bio Diesel is great and easy to make at home but very time consuming and most people that make it say that it ends up costing about 1.00 a gallon BUT...when the person's time is factored into the equation...its not worth it. A guy on the Bio Fuels forum wrote that recently. The Waste Veggie Oil or WVO...is just really easy to do as long as its filtered properly...ussually a 2 stage set up is the way to go...first filter out the coarse stuff...then filter out the fine stuff.
Your right about warming up the oil...the temp gauge needs to be accurate...and I would spend up on the stuff needed to insure that accuarcy...I wouldn't go cheap on something so important. I am not 100% on all the details but...I wonder if the temp gauge is mounted IN the oil and not on the outside of the tank. That would be the best way to get the accurate reading...make sure the oil is up to temp and not the tank itself.
Rollguy...how was the coversion process? Are you glad you did it? did you do it yourself or did you have Lovecraft install it? I personally like Lovecraft for the Mercedes stuff...but I like Greasecar for the Volkswagan stuff. Either way...I totally believe in the movement...I like it...and frankley...if I could get any kind of fuel for free...worrying about MPG would be a thing of the past. I only drive 50 miles a day but that equates to 250 dollars a month...before I was driving 100 miles day and that costed me about 500 dollars a month. Now...I would like to get a diesel and convert to WVO and not spend a nickel on fuel anymore. I would love to save 250 a month...who wouldn't? Once you run a WVO or even Straight veggie oil (SVO)...MPG become meaningless...I am ready to sell my Caprice that won't stop leaking rad. fluid and get an old Merc. Benz or a VW and convert. A Merc. Benz would be nice because they aren't as expensive as lets say a VW...and there wouldn't be any worrying about voiding an extended warrenty on the Merc. benz...but I sure would hate to blow the engine...that would make the whole gross experiment worthless.
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Ahhh...RollGuy...I just read some of your posts over at LoveCraft's forum...too funny!!!
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My wife's brother makes his bio diesel from used cooking oil he gets from convenience stores. His entire refinery is home made. I think he can bring off about 40 or 50 gallons at a time.
He mixes it with diesel in his older Dodge Ram, and runs it straight in a big generator.
He says it costs him about $1/gallon.
His name and location are confidential. He doesn't want the tax man after him.
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$1.00 per gallon is not bad. If I could get methanol cheaper I could come close to that.
It does take time to make biodiesel. But it depends heavily on how you refine your processes. I have found alot of the process is set, and walk away. Come back to it when you have time, or when you know its complete and then move on to the next stage.
Example: When I'm in town I stop and pick up oil (5min at best). When I get home I dump oil into 55 gallon drum for settling (another 5min at best). When I have free time I pump oil from drum to biodiesel reactor (not even 5 min). I turn on my heating element and walk away. I know it takes aproximately 45min to heat up. I use this time to fill my methanol can (5min aprox). When I know its hot I come back and titrate (5min at best). Now I add the lye to the methanol and mix (aprox 10min). Now I add the methoxide to the reactor (20min). I like to add it slow as it mixes in much better this way. I have just dumped it all in at once in under 3min and walked away. Now I set my mixing timer for 2hours and walk away. When its done I have to drain the glycerine (under 5min) and pump the biodiesel to a wash can (2-3min at best). Add water and let my air compressor fill for bubble washing (2-3 min at best). Now it takes three stages to wash. Empty the wash barrel for all three stages (less then 10min). Fill wash can for the last two stages (I'll over estimate and say 8min). Pump to dry can (2min). Heat dry can and run for 30min all while I am doing other things. Time invested to dry while at equipment I'll say (20min) for everything including water testing.
Add all numbers in () and it = 100 minutes aproximate time invested in one batch. Now I wash two batches at once because I have a very small reactor. Add in an extra reaction before wash and dry for a full batch in the wash and dry can and you get - about another hour with figuring for grease pick up. Figure 160 minutes for a 30-40 gallon batch with my double reaction time cause of small reactor. If you had a really big say 50-80 gallon reactor you could cut this time down alot because you only have to titrate the grease, mix lye and methanol together, and mix the batch for 2 hours just once.
So you could say approximately 3 hours is invested in 40 gallons. Now, if your reactor is alot bigger, and you factor in two wash cans and two dry cans you could easily double your production and half your time invested. You could easily make 160 gallons and wash half of that one day and wash and dry the rest the next with only investing a weekend leaving yourself time to do other things while your equipment runs by itself.
I have no need for production scale this large so I just tinker. But I will say this. I heated my entire garage all winter long on a 55 gallon drum that I invested less then a weekend in producing. I also was able to dump three 55 gallon drums worth in my house. 55 X 4 = 220 gallons X $3.20 for heating oil = $704 value. I paid $200 for my drum of methanol including drum deposit. $704 - $200 = $504 I saved last winter.
55 gallons of methanol, 12 liters methanol per 60 liter batch = 17.19 batchs X 60 liters a batch = 1031 liters biodiesel per 55 gallon drum. 1031 liters / 3.78 liters per gallon = 272.75 gallons biodiesel per 55 gallon drum methanol. 272.75 gallons fuel X $3.20 heating oil cost = $872.80 value - $150 methanol cost (drum deposit $50) = $722.80 savings.
Factor in 3 hours per 40 gallons biodiesel for an entire 55 gallon drum of methanol = approximately 20 hours production time. Like I said before, if you have a larger set up you can drastically reduce production times. All in all not including my time I would say I have invested $400 (estimated really high) into my set up and yielded a $720 savings = I'm still ahead $320. Figure into this a second run at $720 savings + $320 after equipment cost from the first run and I have made $1040 worth of saved fuel cost between two 55 gallon drums of methanol. Just in two years just tinkering around in my shop, with approximately 40 hours total production time spent at the equipment during proiduction (not including time away while equipment runs). Now if I wanted to scale up production and get into methanol recovery systems I could really show some numbers. Not bad for screwing around on weekends when there is not much to do. Lets factor in $200 in electric costs for fun and I'm still up $804. And I seriously doubt my small scale plant cost me $60 since I started this experiment. There are farms here that make enough biodiesel in one reaction to fuel the entire farms equipment for three to four days. Now thats large scale production.....
So yes, I will agree it is very time consuming. But, it is also very rewarding. Even if I broke even I would still want to do it. I like recycling something that would normally go to waste. Something I can use to help curb our need for foriegn sources of energy. Plus its a blast, and when your done and you can see it sparkle in the sunlight its enough to give me shivers. Ok, so I'm weird. Everyone here already knows it. ;)
Sorry for the long post
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Rollguy...how was the coversion process? Are you glad you did it? did you do it yourself or did you have Lovecraft install it? I personally like Lovecraft for the Mercedes stuff...but I like Greasecar for the Volkswagan stuff.
I installed the kit myself on both the 300CD, and the 190D. It was very easy, and only took a couple of hours each. I am very happy to not have to deal with biodiesel. It is more hassle than it is worth, when all you need to do is filter the WVO and pour it in the tank. The single tank system is much better, as all you do is "Glow & Go". No need to watch a temperature guage or flip any switches. As for "If you do not get the veggie oil hot enough before it hits the injectors you will destroy the engine", I don't believe a word of it. There are too many Lovecraft systems out there in cars that have driven THOUSANDS of miles without any problems with the engine.
Another problem with making your own biodiesel, is getting rid of the glycerine. It is much easier to just filter (you would need to do that with biodiesel), pour, and drive!
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I definately agree. It is much better to just filter and fill.
Glycerine isn't too bad. I pour one 5 gallon jug down the septic once a month. The rest goes into a mulch pit of hay, yard clippings, and leaves. Makes an awesome fertalizer.
But yes, definately a pain in the rear.
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cool Roll Guy...I was just wondering how it went...I really want to do this...I am not sure when I will be able to but I want to do it. Gas has gotten so expensive and I would really like not to pay for it anymore...even if it were only for a year...or even two years...that would allow me to pay off a lot of bills with the money I saved in not paying for gas any longer. I just want to do it long enough to send that 140 or more dollars a month to my credit card bill and maye be even get a ahead on a student loan or the mortgage even. I have to do something. I can see buying a Merc. benz that uis in good shape for 4 or 5K...then dropping 1000 on the conversion kit and the 500 on the filtering stuff....maybe even let somebody install the conversion because I don't know Merc. Benz very well.
80Spirit...I sure wouldn't want to spend all the time making BioD...it sounds too time consuming to me...I think the WVO would be slightly easier and I can get waste oil from my friends family...they have two resturants and since I have known him since I was very young...I am confident they would just hand it over and not even care since they already told me that they have to PAY to get rid of it anyway. Its a win win situation for me. I hope to be able to do it next year...I would have to sell my Caprice and locate a good quality Merc. Benz before I can move forward. I did find a decent one on Auto Trader...but right now I don't have the money. I am considering taking out a loan from the bank for $7000 to buy a car and pay for the conversion and supplies...it would be a manageable amount to pay back when compared to 10-15K on a new car that I will still need to pay for gasoline to put in it. I am trying to save some money too! Times are tight when you pay almost 200 a month on Gas.
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Actually, the only reason its really worth it to me is I have a blast doing it. I have the time most of the time to tinker with it.
And its actually alot easier to make the biodiesel then it is to alter a home furnace burner to burn the WVO. At least it is for me. I've looked at plans, messed with spare burners in the shop, and even tried to copy waste oil burners I see friends use. Its not as easy as it looks. It gets really cold here and my mother was concernd with the reliability and safety of a home fabricated furnace burner. My grandad lives with us and he's over 80, and he was on hospice last winter. She wouldn't let me near the furnace. She was actually really nervous about the biodiesel mix I was adding to the tank. But I assured her the only danger was to the pump wich is a $20 part I can replace. So, needless to say I make the biodiesel primarily for heating purposes. It is much more reliable to make the fuel then mess with a homemade waste oil burner set up for WVO. Especially since I have a forced hot air furnace. If I was running a boiler set up I could find a waste oil burner to fit my application fairly easily. Actually, we plan on going this route in under ten years.
If I had a diesel car I would most likely burn the filterd WVO. But, since I already make the biodiesel for heating, it would be easier to just dump my heating oil stock in my car tank then mess with the expense of a WVO kit for my car/truck.
Now, if only I could find a diesel vehicle cheap enouph.....
rollguy - I know you don't believe in the dangers of the WVO kits. But I have seen them destroy engines. And I have seen the insides of the engines after damage (trust me you wouls cringe). I worry about the rarity of your diesel nothing more. But, I do not personally know anything about the practical application of these kits nore am I extremely familiar with the kit you use. And, the people I know that installed the kits locally are not the brightest crowd. I know of one man with a kit he bought and made a few alterations to. He has a Mercedes 300 D and its been going strong for three years. He drives the heck out of the dang thing. He hauls four 55 gallon drums of WVO per trailer load and travels hundreds of miles a week collecting for his personal and commercial use.
I wish you nothing but success. I just hope you know what your doing. It sounds like you have put alot of work and cash into your rig. I sincerely hope to see you driving it for a long time. Maybe in 20 years or less I'll make it out your way and see you at a car show. I'd love to hear you say "Told ya so."
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And its actually alot easier to make the biodiesel then it is to alter a home furnace burner to burn the WVO. At least it is for me.
If I had a diesel car I would most likely burn the filterd WVO. But, since I already make the biodiesel for heating, it would be easier to just dump my heating oil stock in my car tank then mess with the expense of a WVO kit for my car/truck.
Yes, making Biofuel for home heating is a great idea. But for Mercedes Benz cars, there is no easier, cheaper, better system than the Lovecraft WVO system.
Also, this thread is getting off topic. There is an alternative fuel thread for the Biodiesel / WVO topic.
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I was thinking that like three posts ago. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread. It just kinda happend. :P
I have heard very good things about the Lovecraft system. From what I have heard they are a very reliable single tank system with heated filters?
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I'm sorry too. I basically started the whole thing...I just have really been getting into it a lot lately and it was good to talk to some more people about the alternative fuels.
80 Spirit...we can continue our discussion in another thread...BTW...now I see why you mix your own...I can see how awesome it would be for home use...imagine all the money you save!
BTW...where is that alternative fuel thread?
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I opened one in the lobby for biodiesel a few days ago. But I don't think rollguy is talking about that one.
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I have heard very good things about the Lovecraft system. From what I have heard they are a very reliable single tank system with heated filters?
Yes, 3 parts- booster pump, heated filter, heat exchanger (replaces stock filter).
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Any pics? Do you have it installed yet?
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Any pics? Do you have it installed yet?
I have installed 2 systems so far. Here is the system on the 300CD-
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=9991.0
I don't have a photo of the 190D system, but it is exactly the same.
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Ah ha! Thank You. ;D
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I got some time to do some work on the Eagle this week/end. I got the interior pieces that I got from Fishmoek installed, and the interior cleaned up.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle018.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle017.jpg)
I started to clean up the engine bay, as many things needed atention. I moved the oil filter assembly from the battery tray (to re-install the battery there), and mounted it next ti the shock tower. I re-plumbed the oil cooler lines, and transmition cooler lines for a cleaner instalation (the coolers were rubbing on the crank pulley). I re-routed and cleaned up the wiring in that area. It also had a very small air cleaner clamped right on the turbo. The plan is to install a duct over the turbo, and put the air cleaner behind it and above the starter. (http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle015.jpg)
I installed a new fuel pump, and re-plumbed the fuel system. I will be installing a Lovecraft Heated Fuel Filter to rum WVO in the future. (http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/80TurbodieselEagle016.jpg)
I will try to get it started today. I know it has a bad head gasget, so I will be replacing it after I know that it will run.
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You were busy. Are parts getting difficult to find?
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I need to get head gasgets, and I am sure I can ge them from Italy or some other Euro country. These engines are a modular design, so a 4,5,or 6 cyl gasget would work. I got the fuel pump on ebay. It is from an Alfa Romeo 4 cyl VM Diesel. It is a perfect match, and works great.
I got the car started this afternoon. I still have some wiring issues to deal with, and then replace the head gasgets, and it should be ready to go!
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She is alive again! That is great news!
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Mandatory movie file required.
;)
Purely so I can drool over it of course. ;D
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If I could figure out how to get a video on line, I would make one!
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Check out You Tube. They wil host movies for you for free.
Or, if you have your own web site, you may be able to upload it there, and just supply people with the link to it. Or, I may be able to host it for you, but you would have to send it to me some how. If its too large email might not work, in that case, you might have to mail it ot me on disk. In any event, it seems to be taking me decades to get anything done lately.
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Whats the news on the ol' turbo diesel? im a little out of date here, i may have missed something........
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I have had so many projects that I have hot had time to work on it. It is not far from being road worthy, but still too many projects right now.
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wheres the second one located? does a member own it?
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I think it was spotted in a junk yard???
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I did not know that it was spotted in a 'yard. That is crap. If it is still there we need to get it to RollyGuy
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if it gets crushed we need to have a moment of silence.... is nobody seriosly trying to find it?
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It has been some time ago since it was posted that it may be there. Here are a couple of threads about it.
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=3225.msg138282#msg138282
http://forums.amceaglenest.com/index.php?topic=14765.0
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UPDATE:
I got started working on the car again this week to get it ready for the meet in Omaha this summer. I was able to put power to the glow plugs and it started right up (at least a year since it was last started). I drove it from the back yard to the shade covered driveway so I could start working on it. The first order of business was to get the glow plug system working. The original system had a solenoid wired to some kind of resistor (timer?) that did not work. Since I am familiar with Mercedes Benz glow plug systems, I decided to use a 6 cyl glow plug timer and wiring from a 1991 300D. I got the parts from my local self serve wrecking yard for cheap (compared to the dealer). Here are photos of the finished (nearly) project:
This photo shows the wiring on the glow plugs
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0005-2.jpg)
Glow plug timer
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0006-5.jpg)
I was starting to finish hooking up the wires inside and noticed some fried wires under the dash (after removing the A/C tray:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0002-4.jpg)
The entire rear wire harness has fried wires along it's length:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0003-4.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0004-3.jpg)
I am in need of the entire rear wire harness from the connection under the left kick panel all the way to the rear (photo of wire harness removed):
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0007-4.jpg)
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I am guessing that harness should be the same as found in gasoline versions.
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Awesome that you got it running again. i have been toying with the idea of a cummins 4B in an eagle and i have an engine sitting at the garage (out of an excavator that fell off the trailer). i may start looking for a donor eagle once I get some more stuff finished up at the topsoil plant (my front yard)
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I am guessing that harness should be the same as found in gasoline versions.
I would agree. I think the only wires that were changed are inside the engine compartment. There are some added inside, but they are just plugged into the fuse panel.
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I did some more work on the engine today. I checked the compression, and only one cylinder was lower (250#) than the rest (300#+). I decided to just pull all 6 heads and do them all. I will have the valves ground, the heads pressure checked, and new gaskets etc. Here is a photo of the rocker boxes (well 5 anyway) and intake manifold removed:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0001-2.jpg)
Here is a photo of the heads removed:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0003-5.jpg)
Here is a photo of the heads and bolts off of the engine:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0002-5.jpg)
My next task is to find head gaskets. I have tried a few sources, but no luck. I have a post on the VM Diesel group (yahoo) and only one lead so far.
I would like to polish the rocker boxes and intake manifold before installing them as well.
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I hope the gaskets are readily available, somewhere.
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I hope the gaskets are readily available, somewhere.
Me too! Not having the gaskets (or taking a month to get them) will prevent me from making the meet in Sept. I also need to get my van running as well (tow and camping vehicle), but I may be able to borrow my brothers truck if I don't.
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Getting there without an Eagle is OK too.
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That's good to know... I was thinking of borrowing my son's 88 Wagon, but that's a lot of miles when I have a '10 Taurus the company buys gas for! I am going to be in Cordova with my AMX the weekend, before, so I don't know if I want to bring it up all that way two weekends in a row.
Hope we can see that cool Diesel Wagon there!
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I found a head gasket kit on the famous auction site. It should be here in a week or so. I cleaned up the heads a bit and ran a stone across the surface, seems pretty flat. I had my friend (a cyl head expert) look at them and check for flatness, and he said they look good. He said I can glue a piece of wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of granite that he gave me, and clean up the surface a little better. He could not machine the heads because of the steel pre-chamber and that they would need to be ground.
Here is a photo of the cleaned heads:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0007-5.jpg)
I found the problem with No.6- leaking compression into cooling system, and into the air:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0005-3.jpg)
I checked for leaking valves by pouring lacquer thinner in the combustion chambers:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0006-6.jpg)
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Its amazing what is for sale/auction. Was the set from a private party or one of their member stores that actually have some sets? I am sure you are relieved.
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Its amazing what is for sale/auction. Was the set from a private party or one of their member stores that actually have some sets? I am sure you are relieved.
It was from a Diesel engine supplier that stocked parts for many brands of engines. The set was the only one he had, and it was for a 6 cyl (most suppliers only stock the more popular 4 cyl parts). Even at $120. + shipping, it was a good deal.
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Its amazing what is for sale/auction. Was the set from a private party or one of their member stores that actually have some sets? I am sure you are relieved.
It was from a Diesel engine supplier that stocked parts for many brands of engines. The set was the only one he had, and it was for a 6 cyl (most suppliers only stock the more popular 4 cyl parts). Even at $120. + shipping, it was a good deal.
I am glad you found some gaskets. That is great. I have spent the last few minutes rereading this thread to see what I have missed. Hope to see you in September.
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I did some head resurfacing today. I got a piece of granite (sink hole cut-out), and glued on a piece of 320 grit wet-dry sandpaper
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0002-6.jpg)
I then sprayed on W-D 40
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0003-6.jpg)
I used a circular motion with the head flat on the sandpaper
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0004-4.jpg)
Photo of 3 heads: Left needs sanding, Center almost finished, Right: finished product!
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0001-3.jpg)
It took about a half hour to do each head. I had to replace the sandpaper for each head.
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Those turned out very nice.
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Wow that is an excellent tip on using the granite / paper combo.Looks like some progress man, way c00l.Egg 2U.
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Wow that is an excellent tip on using the granite / paper combo.Looks like some progress man, way c00l.Egg 2U.
Thanks for egging me. I got the how-to from a motorcycle guy (probably the best machinist on the planet IMO). He does motorcycle heads this way.
Got the other 3 heads done this evening. Now I need to surface the block deck, and wait for the gaskets to arrive.
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The gaskets arrived, and I finished surfacing all 6 heads:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0006-7.jpg)
The block deck (with gaskets) ready for the heads:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0007-6.jpg)
3 heads installed:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0008.jpg)
I will take a photo of all the heads and manifolds installed tomorrow (got dark). I got a new hose made today, will post a photo as well tomorrow.
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I got the heads all installed today, as well as the intake manifold:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0001-4.jpg)
Photo of the new turbo oil hose and ready for the exhaust manifold and turbo:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0002-7.jpg)
Exhaust, turbo, oil filters, and heater hoses hooked up/installed:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0005-4.jpg)
I had to have the radiator cap fitting welded and machined, as it was pitted and would not seal:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/0831101812.jpg)
Photo of repaired radiator cap fitting:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0003-7.jpg)
Coolant manifold, injectors, glow plugs, and misc hoses installed:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/000_0004-5.jpg)
I just need to install the rockers and push rods (and adjust), rocker boxes, throttle linkage, coolant, and oil and it should be ready to test. I am still in need of the rear wire harness. I went to 5 wrecking yards on Friday, and no Eagles! I may have to bug Mavericke for one from one of his scrappers.
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A lot of progress made today. I thought you had a line on a rear harness?
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A lot of progress made today. I thought you had a line on a rear harness?
I sorta do, but not really sure. I was hoping to find one locally so I did not have to deal with sending $ and waiting for one to arrive in the mail.
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I have run into a roadblock! I assembled everything and tried to start the engine yesterday. About an hour later, it still would not start! I checked and rechecked most everything (fuel delivery good, glow plugs working, good strong battery (charging the entire time)etc). The only thing I did not check was the compression. Well today, I pulled the glow plugs and screwed in the adapters, and checked each cyl. I came up with the following numbers:
Cyl 1) 250
" 2) 150
" 3) 280
" 4) 300
" 5) 300
" 6) 280
Before doing the head job, the lowest number was 250 with most being around 300. Thinking about the job, I have a suspicion what might be causing the low numbers. I hope I am wrong, but either way, it involves pulling the heads again. When I got the gasket kit, it was packaged with all the gaskets, seals, o rings, etc mingled together on a cardboard wrapped in cellophane. There were supposed to be 12 small (very thin) copper washers (I could only find 10) for the oil feed banjo bolts. The head gaskets (2 sets of 3 cyls) are MLS (multi layer steel), and it is possible that the 2 remaining washers got stuck between the layers. However, I was very careful to check between all the layers before installing the gaskets (found only 8 at first, 2 were hiding between layers). It is very possible that I missed the remaining 2 washers. I hope this is not the case, but like I said, the only way to know is to pull the heads again. If I don't find any washers between the layers, I don't know what to do. I suppose I will try to find another reason for the low compression.
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Do you know if the heads themselves are warped?? A buddy of mine did the head gaskets on his gravel truck and the head was perfect when he took it off, and warped when he put it back on. He has no idea why it warped considering it sat on a bench the whole time.
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I think he covered any warp issues with the sanding of the surface before reinstalled.I still would think that even with low compression in a couple it would fire and try to run.I just got my Molines engine back in and it would't fire,( not that it is the same as yours) and found the new points were somehow bad....cleaned up the old ones, put them in, gapped, and it fired up.My issue now is the compression is increased so much with engine mods, it is going to take 2 batteries in series to turn it over enough to start.
I hope you figure this out, it is amazing the job you have done, and to even own one of these rare ones !!
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Do you know if the heads themselves are warped?? A buddy of mine did the head gaskets on his gravel truck and the head was perfect when he took it off, and warped when he put it back on. He has no idea why it warped considering it sat on a bench the whole time.
Like I said in the previous post, I will check to see if I find any copper washers between the layers of the head gasket. I should know by Thursday evening.
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Like I said in the previous post, I will check to see if I find any copper washers between the layers of the head gasket. I should know by Thursday evening.
Well, I started to remove some parts today and when I removed the turbo oil feed hose and the rocker oil hose, there was no oil present. I got concerned and decided to crank the engine and see if there was any oil squirting out. I cranked for 10 seconds or so, and nothing. I cranked a little longer and NO OIL PRESSURE! I now have a bigger problem. I suppose that if it did start, the lack of oil pressure would have ceased the engine. I suspect that the lack of oil pressure is responsible for the compression loss as well. I found that there is an inspection plate on the bottom of the oil pan, so I will see if the oil pump is accessible from there. If so, there is a chance that I could repair it without removing the engine.
I removed the heads, and could find no problem with the gaskets (no copper washers between the layers). I have heard of using Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinder bores to loosen up carbon. I think I will try that. Cyl #2 had the lowest compression, so I suspect that the oil will seep through sooner than the rest. All that to say that I probably won't make it to the meet next week unless a MIRACLE happens. I have a few days available, so I am going to press on......Rich
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Good luck on it. Would be better NOT to bring it to the meet than blow it up by rushing to get there with it. Too rare to rush on, 1 of only 2 known to still exist.
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Good luck on it. Would be better NOT to bring it to the meet than blow it up by rushing to get there with it. Too rare to rush on, 1 of only 2 known to still exist.
Yes, I may end up pulling the engine and rebuilding it. I will have time to finish it and bring it to next years meet.
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I cranked the 4 cyl. Tractor over with no plugs in it for at least a minute in short spurts, and it didn't build pressure, even with the plugs installed and again for short spurts for about a minute.I didn't get pressure till it actually fired off,and now it is actually too high and I have to adjust it down.( I know it's not the same engine) or scenerio,but it took what I thought was alot to get pressure,I did coat everything with assmeby lube when I put it back together,wich seemed to still be there when I closed it up to fill with fluids,and it had sat for a month or two.
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I cranked the 4 cyl. Tractor over with no plugs in it for at least a minute in short spurts, and it didn't build pressure, even with the plugs installed and again for short spurts for about a minute.I didn't get pressure till it actually fired off,and now it is actually too high and I have to adjust it down.( I know it's not the same engine) or scenerio,but it took what I thought was alot to get pressure,I did coat everything with assmeby lube when I put it back together,wich seemed to still be there when I closed it up to fill with fluids,and it had sat for a month or two.
The engine ran just a few weeks before starting the head job. Thinking about it now, it may not have had oil pressure then. That might explain why it smoked really bad. I just read last night that the oil pump can be accessed from the front by removing the front cover. I may not need to remove the engine unless I decide to rebuild it. Parts would be very hard to get, so I need to think about the best thing to do before removing the engine for rebuild.
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Better to make it right and have it live, than to thrash it together and have a serious failure that would destroy such a rare bird. Bummer you can't make it, but totally understandable.
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I agree, I spent allmost a year doing this old tractor,sometimes taking months to track down a part , or a lead on one.I am glad I was getting paid to do it though.I wish you the best of luck with this new issue,take your time, you have done great work,and will be rewarded when it rolls along on it's own.
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Yes, to rare of a bird to not do it right.
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I did some work on the car today, as the weather was excellent for working. I wanted to find out why the oil pick up tube was loose (may be the reason for no oil pressure) and decided to pull the oil pan. There was not enough room between the crossmember and the engine to get the pan out, so I thought about it and found a way to do it. I jacked up the engine as far as it would go and found a piece of channel iron that fit across the engine bay and rested on the shock tower:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0050.jpg)
I chained the engine to the iron:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0051.jpg)
I then removed everything that was holding the crossmember to the frame and lowered it:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0052.jpg)
I was able to remove the pan:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0053.jpg)
To my surprise, the oil pick up tube was fine. I expected to see a flange with two loose bolts, causing it not to seal, but it was an O ring type fitting, and that was the reason for the tube being loose. The tube (with an O ring groove) just slips into a hole in the front of the engine.
I realized that I will now need to pull the engine in order to repair the oil pump. I guess I will re-ring it while it is out. I put the pan back on, and bolted the suspension and crossmember back up. The engine and trans need to be removed as a unit, as the bell housing bolts would be impossible to get at with the engine in the car. I pulled the transfer case, and drained the trans. I pulled the radiator and other accessories. With the exception of the power steering hoses, it it ready to come out.
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Sometimes big rewards (your TD Eagle becoming roadworthy) involve a ton of work, but when it pays off, it REALLY pays off. That's totally cool that you're going to rebuild the engine and start anew, that many less problems to worry about in the future. Nice to see that all corners are left intact.... I found out the hard way that cutting even teh smallest corner on these Eagles will ALWAYS come back to bite you in the butt.. If you have to step back, check out what you did and say "well, I'm not comfortable with it, but it will have to do", odds are you'll end up redoing it anyway at some point...
I can't wait to hear this thing run, would love some vids once you're done with it. In the mean time though, gonna def keep an eye on this thread...
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I am thinking that in the back of Rich's mind he wanted to do some engine work anyway. Your engine support is also mentioned in the AMC TSM's.
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i wonder if that same procedure would work to take an oil pan out of a 258?
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i wonder if that same procedure would work to take an oil pan out of a 258?
I am sure it would. I could have gotten more space if needed, but I had enough. I had the heads removed already, so raising the engine as far as it would go gave me most of the room I needed to get the pan out.
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I am thinking that in the back of Rich's mind he wanted to do some engine work anyway. Your engine support is also mentioned in the AMC TSM's.
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Sometimes big rewards (your TD Eagle becoming roadworthy) involve a ton of work, but when it pays off, it REALLY pays off. That's totally cool that you're going to rebuild the engine and start anew, that many less problems to worry about in the future. Nice to see that all corners are left intact.... I found out the hard way that cutting even teh smallest corner on these Eagles will ALWAYS come back to bite you in the butt.. If you have to step back, check out what you did and say "well, I'm not comfortable with it, but it will have to do", odds are you'll end up redoing it anyway at some point...
I can't wait to hear this thing run, would love some vids once you're done with it. In the mean time though, gonna def keep an eye on this thread...
I agree. I was thinking if I could fix the oil pressure problem without pulling the engine, then I would be able to get it on the road sooner. However, I was assuming that my Marvel Mystery Oil ring rejuvenation treatment that I did would have fixed the compression problem. As it turns out, I will freshen up the engine while it is out, and maybe the trans as well.
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i wonder if that same procedure would work to take an oil pan out of a 258?
I am sure it would. I could have gotten more space if needed, but I had enough. I had the heads removed already, so raising the engine as far as it would go gave me most of the room I needed to get the pan out.
Did you unbolt the trans as well or just the axle and motor mounts?
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i wonder if that same procedure would work to take an oil pan out of a 258?
I am sure it would. I could have gotten more space if needed, but I had enough. I had the heads removed already, so raising the engine as far as it would go gave me most of the room I needed to get the pan out.
Did you unbolt the trans as well or just the axle and motor mounts?
After suspending the engine from the iron, I removed the entire engine mount and brackets from the crossmember and engine, and then removed the 6 bolts holding on the suspension (4 from crossmember, 2 from angle supports below radiator). I had to remove the bolts holding the idler arm, and the anti-sway bar as well to move them out of the way. The entire assembly was lowered with a jack until the tires touched the ground.
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i wonder if that same procedure would work to take an oil pan out of a 258?
I am sure it would. I could have gotten more space if needed, but I had enough. I had the heads removed already, so raising the engine as far as it would go gave me most of the room I needed to get the pan out.
Did you unbolt the trans as well or just the axle and motor mounts?
After suspending the engine from the iron, I removed the entire engine mount and brackets from the crossmember and engine, and then removed the 6 bolts holding on the suspension (4 from crossmember, 2 from angle supports below radiator). I had to remove the bolts holding the idler arm, and the anti-sway bar as well to move them out of the way. The entire assembly was lowered with a jack until the tires touched the ground.
Awesome! now that i know that there is another way to replace my oilpan without removing the engine i am stoked
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I forgot to mention that I removed the frond diff brackets as well, and wired the diff up off the ground.
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Very cool , I think that maybe this issue will be a blessing in disguise in the end.It is so cool to see such a rare piece it's due rewards and getting put back in operation.That procedure is the same used for taking out the tranny in my Caddy.They sell a special set up, but like you I am thinking angle iron or wood blocking will work well , the other option I am told is to unbolt the whole front carriage and lift the car up off it, and roll out the whole assembly,who's idea was it anyways to stuff a V8 sideays in a front wheel drive car ?? Yeah I know Olds did it first with the Toranado , I was like 10 when I saw my dad's friend do a burn out with one, I think I scratched my head for days on that one.
Excellent job Rollguy , !
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Very cool , I think that maybe this issue will be a blessing in disguise in the end.It is so cool to see such a rare piece it's due rewards and getting put back in operation.That procedure is the same used for taking out the tranny in my Caddy.They sell a special set up, but like you I am thinking angle iron or wood blocking will work well , the other option I am told is to unbolt the whole front carriage and lift the car up off it, and roll out the whole assembly,who's idea was it anyways to stuff a V8 sideays in a front wheel drive car ?? Yeah I know Olds did it first with the Toranado , I was like 10 when I saw my dad's friend do a burn out with one, I think I scratched my head for days on that one.
Excellent job Rollguy , !
toronado was different in the fact that they kept the engine in the "normal" configuration, caddys and all of the other front wheel drive cars mount the engine sideways for some stupid reason
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IIRC Dodge Intrepids and Chyrsler Concordes used the traditional fore and aft configuration for those FWD cars -- at least for the 3.0's? Or, I could be wrong.
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who's idea was it anyways to stuff a V8 sideays in a front wheel drive car ??
I am sure the engineers of the day decided that it was cheaper/easier to have the engine and axle axis in the same orientation (the same design used today). The original front wheel drive transaxle was cumbersome, and not very compact. It was however, designed to withstand the large amount of torque and horsepower that the largest displacement production automobile engine at the time put out (Cadillac 8.2 L).
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Very cool , I think that maybe this issue will be a blessing in disguise in the end.It is so cool to see such a rare piece it's due rewards and getting put back in operation.That procedure is the same used for taking out the tranny in my Caddy.They sell a special set up, but like you I am thinking angle iron or wood blocking will work well , the other option I am told is to unbolt the whole front carriage and lift the car up off it, and roll out the whole assembly,who's idea was it anyways to stuff a V8 sideays in a front wheel drive car ?? Yeah I know Olds did it first with the Toranado , I was like 10 when I saw my dad's friend do a burn out with one, I think I scratched my head for days on that one.
Excellent job Rollguy , !
toronado was different in the fact that they kept the engine in the "normal" configuration, caddys and all of the other front wheel drive cars mount the engine sideways for some stupid reason
It's because the fwd transmission is also transverse, the bellhousing bolts up and the transaxles come out of either side of teh transmission. Think of it almost as 1 1/2 differentials.
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I pulled the engine/transmission today.
Hooked up and part of the way out:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0058.jpg)
Out of the car:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0059.jpg)
Safely on the garage floor:
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0062.jpg)
The next thing to do is to separate the trans from the engine, and put the engine on the engine stand. I will remove all the brackets and accessories, and clean everything. I have a friend that does powder coating, and I will have him do all the brackets in black. After putting the engine on the stand, I need to find an oil pump, and rings (probably the hardest part).
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So the engine and tranny are able to come out together,hmmmm.I didn't think they would.
Nice work , hope it goes smooth , and you find the parts quickly.I have had rings made at Hastings , the hardest part was measuring the bores acuretly and determining the material they were nade out of.I ended up sending them a one set of old ones.They make them ( or cut them) , slightly larger, and I filed the correct end gap to fit as supposed to.Wich you have to check the end gap on any set anyways.I do have a ring gap filer if you come to needing one,it's a bit easier than a vise and a hand file.
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Thanks for the shots. Can you take some closer up up the engine so us curious folks can see what it look like?
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Very nice. Slowly, but surely gettin' er done. 8)
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any updates on this restoration? been a while since the last update
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It has been very cold here in the DESERT of So. Cal,so I have not been able to work on it. The next task is to make an engine stand that will be high enough to remove the oil pan, but still not be so high as to be dangerous for use in starting the engine before installing it.
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I just gotta ask: where did you find that!!?? :oOne is more likely to come across a baskeball size ruby than an eagle turbo diesel!!! My god I would sell a lung and a kidney to get my paws on one of those!! I cant wait to see your progress on that beauty...Very Very cool ride!!!!
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I just gotta ask: where did you find that!!?? :oOne is more likely to come across a baskeball size ruby than an eagle turbo diesel!!! My god I would sell a lung and a kidney to get my paws on one of those!! I cant wait to see your progress on that beauty...Very Very cool ride!!!!
The thread about how I got it is here somewhere. I am thankful I did not have to give a kidney or a lung for it. The way I look at it, God gives us things in life to take care of while we are here. I have been chosen to be the steward of this Eagle, and I hope I can be a good steward. My desire is to restore it and take it to car shows so others can enjoy it as well....Rich
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What a great car you have there, rollguy ! I heard about TD Eagles, but today I learnt (discovered this thread by pure chance) how rare they are, and which kind of engine they have. Wow, a VM powering an Eagle !
I knew about early Chrysler Voyagers using them (I used to have one myself), but I would never suspect VM made it into AMCs...
If you're still missing something, I'd be happy to help: "VM Motori" main plant is just 260 miles from my place ! ;)
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If you're still missing something, I'd be happy to help: "VM Motori" main plant is just 260 miles from my place ! ;)
WOW! thanks for the offer. And yes, I am in need of some parts. It is difficult to find parts here in the States. I know I will need an oil pump, head gasket set, and maybe a few other things.
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Feel free to PM me whenever you are ready, providing all the details you have. I'll do the best that I can to help.
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Feel free to PM me whenever you are ready, providing all the details you have. I'll do the best that I can to help.
I will do just that! Thanks, Rich
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Helping hand across the seas. I will have to check with Paula (BabyEagle) but I think it was she who knows where another Eagle TD is.
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Helping hand across the seas. I will have to check with Paula (BabyEagle) but I think it was she who knows where another Eagle TD is.
We (mostly Paula) are on it! She says she thinks it is in Texas. She is trying to find out, and she will let me know.
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Good deal.
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Im sure glad to see such a rare piece of American Motors history is safe in the hands of someone who really loves and appreciates it. This is literally a once in a lifetime chance to see a project like this come together.
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I have some good and bad news to share with you all the TD Eagle. I have had difficulty finding the time and resources to finish this project (the bad news), so I have decided to let someone else finish it. I have thought long and hard about who should carry on the restoration. I thought about putting it for auction on this site, but decided that it needs to go somewhere that it would be seen and enjoyed by many folks. The only and best place I thought of is the Rambler Ranch (the good news).
I contacted Terry and we came to an agreement. Terry has the resources to restore it to the level that it deserves. I think it will have a good nest in Colorado with the rest of his flock (50+ Eagles). He will be sending a friend out to So. Cal in a week or so to pick it up. I will start another thread that will give all the details of the move. It will be a sad and happy day for me when it flies the coop, but I think it is for the best.......Rich
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That must have been a pretty hard decision to make Rich...I am struggling with my current project I can only imagine how difficult it must be to try to restore somthing that rare and complicated.....Eggs too you for deciding to place the car somewhere that it can be enjoyed by all.
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I got the engine and trans ready to transport. I made a fixture that doubles as a transport and running stand. The oil pan can be removed, the trans can be removed, and/or the TC can be installed, or just left off. I made 4 mounts on each side so each unit can be removed and the other/s can remain.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0415.jpg)
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k13/rollguy/100_0416.jpg)
After the engine is repaired, it can be run before installing it in the car to make sure everything is working properly. It was a real pain to just remove the engine, so it will be much harder to install it.
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So are you sending out to get rebuilt or is Terry taking it off your hands?
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So are you sending out to get rebuilt or is Terry taking it off your hands?
If everything works out, Terry will restore the entire car and it will nest with the other birds at the Rambler Ranch for many folks to enjoy.
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I certainly look foward to seeing that car! Its a going to be a an extraordinary experience for not only AMC guys but all car fanatics....Not often you get a chance to see not only the rarest of AMC's but probably one of the rarest american made automobiles.
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I guess my question is why did they make so few? Diesel powered rigs with turbo's are pretty popular(now)maybe I answered my own question ::)
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I guess my question is why did they make so few? Diesel powered rigs with turbo's are pretty popular(now)maybe I answered my own question ::)
In 1980 the TD Eagle sold for over $19,000. The company that converted them had to pay full price for the stock Eagles. Also the interest rate was near 20%. Very few people could afford to buy them.
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$19,000 was a huge sum back then. That was nearly $4,000 more than a new Cadillac Eldorado. The whole high end luxury cross over thing was unheard of back then today there would have been a waiting list for a car like that....just one more way AMC was so far ahead of their time.
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Wow, I had no idea they cost that much! While the idea for the car is a good one, I would think that some market research would have shown that there wasn't much demand for the car. However, they may not have done it strictly from a sales point of view,, but to demonstrate it could be done. Were there ever any write ups in any of the major car magazines about the TD? How did the experts view this experiment? Thanks.
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I think they were just too far ahead of their time. America wasnt ready for a 4x4 deisel powered luxury crossover yet..
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Can anyone tell me more about the TD engine from VM Motori?
What are the specs? Where else was this engine used?
I guess it should be possible/legal to swap a petrol for a similar diesel, right?