AMC Eagle Den Forum
The Shop => Body Shop => Topic started by: carguy87 on December 30, 2011, 09:50:34 PM
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Since my door hinge pins and bushings were a little over worn from the PO using them with NO bushing left, I had to do some digging to get some pins and bushings that would work, and here is what I came up with.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/zdeyonker/1230112023.jpg)
Old pins and what was left of bushings.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/zdeyonker/1230112024.jpg)
The old door striker, plastic was past worn from lack of pins and bushings.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/zdeyonker/1230112024a.jpg)
The new striker in place.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j456/zdeyonker/1230112025.jpg)
The part numbers of the parts I used.
The pins are GM style with the E-clip retainers. Now at 2.83" long, they are too short to use the retainer clips, but since they have the knurled edge before the head, they fit very snugly into the hinges, so I think they should hold. I did have to slightly en-largen the holes in the hinge brackets that were bolted to the doors, I did this using an 11/32" drill bit. And I also changed the direction of the pins to being pushed down into the hinge instead of up in the odd chance that they somehow get worked out. I topped it all off with a little lubricant on all 4 bushings to prevent having to do this again.
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This looks great. I'll have to pick up a pin and bushing set early next week. I'm thankful that I don't have to replace the striker just yet but at least this looks like a solution for when it gets to that point. Thanks.
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This looks great. I'll have to pick up a pin and bushing set early next week. I'm thankful that I don't have to replace the striker just yet but at least this looks like a solution for when it gets to that point. Thanks.
x2. Particularly of much value is the clear pix of the specific part numbers. Hold out your hand...I'm throwing you an egg. :eagle:
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This kit is another good solution which my local NAPA keeps in stock. I have used these for rebuilding the hinges on an AMX and my Concord wagon. The nice thing is that the pins are plenty long to use for any AMC application (just shorten them accordingly) plus you get a choice of bushings to pick from. One of the hinges on the Concord was worn so badly that I needed to use one of the larger splined bushings for that hinge.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n51/surfside69/My%20Old%20Cars/Silver%201968%20AMX/DSC00631.jpg)
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This kit is another good solution which my local NAPA keeps in stock. I have used these for rebuilding the hinges on an AMX and my Concord wagon. The nice thing is that the pins are plenty long to use for any AMC application (just shorten them accordingly) plus you get a choice of bushings to pick from. One of the hinges on the Concord was worn so badly that I needed to use one of the larger splined bushings for that hinge.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n51/surfside69/My%20Old%20Cars/Silver%201968%20AMX/DSC00631.jpg)
I'm aware this is old, but I've got 4 of these on the way.. great info. Have an egg!
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on these door pins an bushings was it a direct fit or did you have to modify it some an what part numbers did you use? I got a 85 Eagle wagon an all 4 doors need fixed on it.
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Oh wow, this thread again. It fixed my sagging driver side door but I get passengers so often that my passenger side door is now an issue that needs to be fixed soon. Know how the pins go separate directions? It's not like that on my passenger door. Both bolts go in from the top and I don't see how that's even possible. Any advice?
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This kit is another good solution which my local NAPA keeps in stock.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n51/surfside69/My%20Old%20Cars/Silver%201968%20AMX/DSC00631.jpg)
Just used this NAPA parts kit 675-5142. One for each hinge on the driver's door. Used the pin as supplied, without shortening it. Used the over-sized bushings. Had to drill the pin & bushing holes out larger to fit them. By hand drill, hinge side in a vice. Easy. One goof: on one, the top hole for the pin was a hair over sized - but it got the splines of the pin head, so that was fine as it is held firmly in place by the spines.
Removed and rebuilt the bottom hinge first. Used a vice with very slight force to seat the spline bushings. Same for the pins, but pressed just enough in for their splines to bind, not set with the pin heads fully down against the hole. Then reinstalled it with the door still in registration from the upper hinge. Then removed and rebuilt the upper hinge. Bushings & pins greased. Door sagged, but was firm in movement.
With both hinges on again, I got lucky. I adjusted the upper hinge once with the hinge-to-body bolts only, door closed. Then loosened the lower hinge's hinge-to-body bolts, door open slightly.
CAUTION: had to support the door weight to keep it from trying to pivot down on the upper hinge to tuck in under the fender, which likely would have broken the new bushings in the upper hinge.
Then slightly raised the barely open door with a floor jack with a piece of wood to protect the bottom of the door, until it visually aligned with the sides of the door opening. Tightened the bolts down, and the door swung smooth like butter, exactly into place (bought a lottery ticket on the way home...).
This went easier than any time I've swapped pins & bushings on any door. Large bushing wall, great fit, slightly larger pin for more contact are to support the weight of Eagle doors, leaves no play and a lot of confidence in this repair. I'd highly recommend going with these parts for rebuilding Eagle hinges. I'll report back if time shows otherwise.
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I just used the normal GM bushings with some JB weld around the bushing to fill in the worn down parts
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This is what I bought years back. I got the number from a post back when this was still The Nest & not The Den. Have 2, never used. long story.
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I just used the normal GM bushings with some JB weld around the bushing to fill in the worn down parts
I was very tempted to do that for the upper hinge that had little wear, or (since the hinges had to come off to remove the original stock pins) JB Weld the hole and drill it out to fit the regular bushings. But then the repair is relying upon having successfully de-greased for a fully secure bond, and it needs a full bond, as the worn holes aren't necessarily square to the metal. Since the hinges were out, I liked drilling for squared holes for a straight load transfer, the thicker bushing so the bushing is stronger, the bushing-to-hinge load is over a slightly larger area, and no JB Weld on the list of possible points of failure.
The JB Weld way is interesting - with either size of bushing - as you can also scrape a little paint off the metal hinge and build up the surface the bushing will be supported by, even if just from a fillet. I could do that with the hinge in place - if I hadn't so thoroughly greased everything. If before they're installed, you could even drill a tiny hole there for a pin or tiny bolt to go through, to give the JB Weld something to anchor around while it's supporting the bushing. If I have to revisit this repair, I'll either do that or:
- weld the metal that supports the bushing thicker and drill it out, or
- weld/bolt more metal over the hole and drill out, for more metal supporting the thicker bushing.